Damien Hue is like that. Damien is a Normandy private tour guide extraordinaire! His Normandy tours are unique.

Damien's roots, the very ones connected to his family tree, sprung from the battered soil and beaches where American soldiers landed on the beaches of Normandy and Omaha, and where they fought back the Germans to liberate the French, his parents, his grandparents, his uncles, and his aunts.

The liberation is more than just June 6, 1944, D-Day as we commonly refer to it. It took 100 days to gain back what the Germans had taken, and Damien can show you all of it.

With its picturesque landscapes and historical significance, Normandy is a region of France that I feel in my bones. And while guidebooks (and heck, bloggers) and the usual Normandy tours provide a surface-level understanding, immersing yourself in the true essence of this region requires the insights only a local guide can provide.

I wanted to share my opinion and experiences, and the reasons why having a local tour guide can transform your Normandy experience.

The Rich Tapestry of Normandy's History

Normandy's history is woven with threads of valor and cultural richness. For history enthusiasts, exploring the World War II sites and D-Day Landings is akin to stepping back in time. A local guide, well-versed in the nuances of these events, not only narrates facts but breathes life into the tales of courage and sacrifice.

Beyond war narratives, Normandy boasts medieval architecture that whispers stories of bygone eras (including the Vikings!). Local guides, intimately acquainted with the cathedrals, castles, and cobblestone streets, unravel the layers of heritage, painting a vivid picture of Normandy's history.

Hidden Gems and Off-the-Beaten-Path Experiences

I know. I know. Two clichés that travel bloggers and writers hate. Me too. But I can think of no better way to describe how one finds secret access to locations that remain unknown to visitors, even some “new” locals, that you only learn of from someone who was born and raised in the locale.

While tourist hotspots are magnetic for a reason, Normandy's true charm lies in some of its lesser-known treasures. Quaint villages and the charming countryside, often missed by casual tourists, unveil a different side of Normandy. A local guide, akin to a compass, navigates you through these hidden realms, ensuring you feel the authentic heartbeat of the region.

Cultural Nuances and Authentic Interactions

Normandy's culture is a mosaic of language, festivals, and customs. A local guide becomes your linguistic bridge, helping you navigate the nuances of connecting beyond the basic bonjour. Festivals and local celebrations, often missed by guidebooks, offer a chance to witness Normandy at its most vibrant.

A local tour guide can not only ensure you are present at these events but can also provide insights into the cultural significance, making your experience richer.

Customs and traditions, deeply embedded in the fabric of Normandy, go beyond what meets the eye. A local guide, as a cultural ambassador, introduces you to these subtleties, fostering authentic interactions with locals. Your journey transcends being a mere spectator; it becomes a participative dance with the rhythm of Normandy's lifestyle.

Culinary Traditions and Local Flavors

In addition, to savor the essence of Normandy, one must understand and appreciate its culinary traditions. Local markets, pulsating with life and color, provide a sensory feast. Here, the craftsmanship of artisans and the flavors of local produce entwine.

A local guide can steer you through the labyrinth of flavors, introducing you to hidden gastronomic gems that elude guidebooks, bloggers, or internet recommendations. Not only can they help you navigate these markets but also decode the stories behind each handmade artifact and freshly picked fruit.

So Why Damien Hue Specifically?

Mr. Misadventures and I first met Damien when we rented his and his wife's Airbnb home, Charlotte House, in Pays d'Auge. It was the most idyllic week I've ever spent in Normandy. We stayed in a Norman-styled half-timbered farmhouse surrounded by apple and pear trees…and many, many cows! He and his wife were gracious hosts which is always great.

BUT. He also got us before-they-opened/private-access to La Galotière ciderie where we visited and tested out ciders and pommeau…all in the name of research! And why does Damien know so much about cider?

Well. His family lineage of farmers spans generations, from his father, grandparents, and uncles, to his brother-in-law. After completing his education at an agriculture school, he spent three transformative months working on a thriving Cider farm, an experience that sparked a lifelong passion for the beverage. Cider has now become a cherished daily indulgence.

His food and educational journey continued as he pursued studies in Business and Marketing for the Food Industry near Paris. But his roots called him back. Since 2013, he has been an advocate for his beloved Normandy, embracing the role of ambassador.

The allure of Normandy's ‘terroir' captivates him, inspiring him to open his arms to visitors who yearn to explore the idyllic countryside of ‘Le Pays d'Auge'.

Yes, he does Normandy beach tours but he actually knows the stories behind them having befriended people and their families who were there. He is passionate about sharing our common French-American history by honoring the soldiers and veterans who liberated Normandy, France, and Europe and his own family history which is intertwined.

Yes, he can facilitate a Normandy tour from Paris. This can be a (long) day trip from Paris (it is a Full day tour). Damien will pick you up in Paris or at the train station, you do not need to worry about anything!

You can find Damien on Instagram and follow his experiences parachuting over Mont St Michel, meeting WWII veterans, and promoting Camembert. A true Norman true-and-true!

Damien has a few guided tours and can also be contacted for custom tours:

Damien is truly a Normandy expert BUT he also knows his way around other regions of France like Loire Valley, Brittany, and more. He can customize any number of tours for you and I am happy to connect you!

We loved Damien so much that when we were visiting Paris this past fall, we met up with him for lunch! It was a blink of an eye and hours had passed, he is so knowledgeable and engaging! I highly recommend him!

While visiting Normandy France may seem like exploring a well-documented region, the true magic lies in the untold stories and hidden wonders. Engaging a Normandy local guide like Damien transforms your journey into an immersive experience, where every stone, every dish, and every conversation deepens your experience.

Have you ever had an experience with a local tour guide that you want to share? Do tell!

Don't forget to pin this for later!

Share now!

AUTHOR BIO

Andi Fisher

I am married to a French man, lived in France for 3 years, and have been to Paris more than 50 times. I am always a tourist so the information, tip, and tricks I share are created to help you!

The post J’adore: Normandy Tours Guide Damien Hue appeared first on Misadventures with Andi.

The monks kept impeccable records of their recipes and worked systematically to improve the quality of their spirits. They believed that since they worked for God, a sub-par quality beverage would be a grave offense. (You and me both, brother!)

One of those distilled beverages is Bénédictine Liqueur, an ancestral secret recipe hailing from the Abbey of The Trinity of Fécamp dating back to the 16th century. This old herbal liqueur with 27 herbs and spices (try not to say that with a Colonel Sanders voice, I dare you!) has a unique honey-sweetened spicy taste that is hard to recreate or substitute with another spirit.

Dom Benedictine Liqueur

The origins of Bénédictine liqueur are somewhat hazy. Some say the liqueur was distilled by a Bénédictine monk, herbal, and chemist, Dom Bernardo Vincelli back in 1510. In the Abbey of Fécamp in Normandy, the Benedictine monks created this liqueur with a secret recipe containing a blend of herbs, local medicinal plants, and oriental spices sweetened with honey.

The beverage was known as an elixir that was intended to revitalize old monks. The distillery ran smoothly until the French Revolution when it was shut down. During the chaos of the Revolution, the recipe went missing until it was found once again some 300 years later.

The recipe was discovered by a Norman wine merchant, Alexandre Le Grand in 1863 who revived the liqueur and started producing it in large quantities. He built a large distillery, Palais Bénédictine, where the liqueur is still made today.

While this seems to be the widely accepted origin story, some others believe that Le Grand developed the herbal liqueur with the help of a local chemist and ancient medicinal recipes passed down by his grandparents. For marketing purposes, he attached the story of monks brewing this liqueur in the Abbey of Fécamp until the French Revolution.

To introduce the liqueur, Le Grand ordered a special green glass bottle. He also obtained the right to use the name and the coat of arms of the Abbey of Fécamp from the Superior of the Benedictine Order in Rome. He added the letters “D.O.M” (Deo Optimo Maximo), the abbreviation used by the Benedictine Order in their documents. The words are a great way to remind the users of the liqueur’s origin.

The Benedictine Liqueur Recipe

The recipe for Bénédictine Liqueur is a closely guarded secret formula that is known to only three people at any given time. There are only three existing copies of the recipe kept safely in different locations. What we do know is that the technique uses 27 herbs and spices from around the world, carefully selected for the balance they strike in the elixir.

The secret chemistry of the ingredients is what gives the liqueur its unique taste and smell. To keep the formula under lock and key, only a select few ingredients are revealed to the public. Juniper, thyme, vanilla, coriander, myrrh, hyssop, saffron, mace, fir cones, aloe, arnica, lemon balm, and angelica roots are just some herbs used in the process.

During our tour of the Bénédictine Palace, we got to smell a lot of the herbs and spices individually and there are ones that I was completely unaware of, like myrrh, that smelled wonderful.

Production

The 27 ingredients are divided into four groups where each group is combined with neutral spirits and slowly distilled in original copper pots. This process produces four distillates known as esprits which are left to age in oak barrels made by the best French coopers.

After eight months of aging, the esprits are combined with honey and saffron to give them a rich texture and a special taste that balances the ingredients. The blend is double-heated to seal the flavor, and the mixture is aged again for four months in oak tanks, after which it is filtered and bottled for sale.

What does D.O.M. Bénédictine Liqueur Taste like?

The best feature of the Bénédictine Liqueur is that it cannot be substituted with any other spirit, thanks to its herbal spicy-sweet taste. None of the 27 ingredients used in the recipe dominate the spirit and neither do they make it taste like a regular herbal liqueur. Rather, Bénédictine has a sweet-honey flavor with accents of holiday spices and herbal tones with nuances of stone fruits.

Types of Bénédictine Liqueur

The spirit started out as a single-bottle brand but over the years has started offering two more varieties.

B&B Bénédictine

The B&B Bénédictine was inspired by a popular cocktail. During US Prohibition, New York City’s Club 21 invented a cocktail that was a blend of brandy and Bénédictine, known as B&B. The cocktail became such a hit that the liqueur company decided to make a pre-mixed version with French brandy and Bénédictine. It is considered to be the first ready-to-drink cocktail that can also be mixed with other cocktails.

Bénédictine Single Cask

Bénédictine Single Cask was released in 1984 and is similar to B&B Bénédictine. It is a mix of French brandy and Bénédictine liqueur aged in Limousin oak casks for three months. The result is a very impressive liqueur but it is only found at the French distillery in Fécamp. I had the pleasure of sampling it, and it was my favorite!

Visiting the Bénédictine Palace

Le Grand needed a large place to brew his liqueur, so he decided to set up a palace with a built-in factory to house his production and to show off the grand spirit. The Palace is a gorgeous half-Gothic, half-Renaissance venue that illustrates the ancient collections of books and art pieces of Le Grand.

There is beautiful stained glass window throughout the palace. Even if you aren't interested in all the religious artifacts, the windows are worth a long gaze.

I love the part of the museum that displays all of the vintage advertisements. The marketer in me loves that. And the Palace also houses a Hall of Counterfeits where the brand showcases the fake bottles and labels that were reproduced by infringing on their intellectual property.

Visitors can take a tour of the cellars, the distillery, and the art rooms, and also enjoy a unique tasting experience in the Palace. Which is exactly what Mr. Misadventures and I did. The shortest tour lasts 45 minutes with other tours going up to 2 hours. It is the only way to do a tasting which takes place at the end of the tour.

Attached to the palace is a gorgeous bar and restaurant called the Bar La Verrière where you can also taste cocktails and food created to enhance the liqueur.

Using Bénédictine Liqueur

This cognac-based liqueur makes for a great companion for several cocktails. A single ice cube is enough to bring out the real taste of the liqueur. Bénédictine has a unique herbal taste and therefore should be used prudently, especially if you’re a newbie.

The sweetness can be quite overpowering, so it’s best to think of it as an aperitif watered down with other beverages. Its complex notes allow it to pair well with other dark spirits as well as old-fashioned citrus and tea beverages.

Where to Buy Bénédictine Liqueur in the U.S.

• Total Wine & More has both Benedictine DOM and B&B
• They also have B&B at BevMo

A few Bénédictine Liqueur cocktail recipes

• 3 Killer Cocktails to Show Off Bénédictine from Food & Wine
• Bénédictine Cocktails to Make at Home from Mixly
• 8 [of the] Most Popular Cocktails with Benedictine from Taste Atlas

The region of Normandy is full of wonder…and alcohol! If Bénédictine liqueur is not your style, consider French cider or Calvados, two additional golden liqueurs that are magical!

How about you? Have you ever heard of Bénédictine liqueur? Have you ever tried it? Do tell!

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The post Magical Benedictine Liqueur: Alchemy turned Alcohol + Our Visit to the Bénédictine Palace appeared first on Misadventures with Andi.

Mr. Misadventures and I spent a week in the region named after this very drink – Calvados.

What is Calvados Apple Brandy?

Calvados is a type of brandy that begins its journey as a cider. The base of the cider is primarily produced with apples, although a certain quantity of pears is allowed in the mix.

The different types of apples are harvested and pressed into a juice that is fermented into a dry cider. It is then distilled into eau de vie. After aging in old oak casks, it can be sold. The longer it ages, the smoother this French brandy becomes.

The orchards in Normandy grow more than 200 varieties of apples in four distinct categories made up of different varieties of apples – sweet, sharp, bittersweet, and bittersharp, all red apples. The cider is a blend of all four of the different apple varieties to balance the taste and character of the final Calvados.

Is Calvados made in Normandy?

Calvados liqueur is named after its home region, in Calvados Normandy (specifically Calvados Pays d'Auge), and is a French apple brandy and has its own Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status. Much like champagne, the apples and pears that are used to make cider have to be grown in the orchards of Normandy, and Calvados can be produced only in the geographical areas demarcated by the National Institute of Origin and Quality.

Currently, there are three Calvados AOCs. The first one was awarded to Calvados Pays d’Auge in 1942, followed by Calvados in 1984 and Calvados Domfrontais in 1997. The areas cover a large part of Normandy and have some similarities in the production process.

History and Origins

Thanks to its mild climate, Normandy was well-known for its apple production in all of France. The residents have a wide knowledge of how to care for the apples and the best way to preserve them, which, more often than not, was turning the fruit into a beverage.

The first written record of the distillation can be traced back to a Norman manuscript in 1553 by Gilles de Gouberville who refers to the stills and eau-de-vie in his Mém­oires. During this time, cider distillation was for local and personal consumption, until the 17th century when it started to be known outside Normandy.

The drink was known as cider eau-de-vie du Calvados and did not enjoy the same prestige as that of wine eau-de-vie. It was in the 19th century that Calvados apple brandy really became popular and started to be known as a refined spirit. [It might have become more popular in the 18th century, but King Louis XIV passed a law that forbade Calvados makers from exporting their product outside Normandy likely because one of the king's ministers was from Cognac.]

The introduction of industrial distilleries as well as a growing interest in the taste and aromas of the spirit led to producers competing to enhance their quality. By improving their techniques, they aimed to win trade events and display the awards on their labels.

While the First World War showed Normandy as an image of peace and tranquility, the Second World War brought a chaotic period for Calvados. The state monopolized alcohol production to create explosives for the war but the producers fought to build a reputation for Calvados as a naturally produced spirit.

Pear and apple cider eau-de-vies were soon granted AOC and AOR status, making producers adhere to strict guidelines for terminology and production.

Calvados soon became expensive as a result of heavy taxation due to the increase in alcohol intake in the 50s and the growing American influence. It was only in the 1980s that producers started creating a high-value product by focusing on growing the fruits under the right conditions and aging the spirits at constant temperatures.

Calvados had 10 official AORs, which were regrouped in 1984 under the Calvados Appellation, and now have distilleries scattered around the Normandy region in Northern France.

The Calvados Orchards

Apples are grown all over Normandy, and Calvados has around 8000 hectares of orchards dedicated to its production. The 3 million apple trees are a wonderful source of diverse fruit variety, they have a high resistance to climate variation and are home to many living organisms. The orchards mostly use natural fertilizers and low water consumption.

The Calvados apple brandy production is an extensive local network that is essential to the livelihood of the towns and villages of Normandy. The orchards not only supply fruit for the making of Calvados but are also a source of eco-tourism for the region. Hundreds and thousands of tourists visit the distilleries and orchards to witness firsthand the aesthetics of the farms and to learn about the process.

Mr. Misadventures and I spent a morning at La Galetière (in Crouttes in the heart of Calvados) exploring the orchard and checking out the process of making French apple cider and Calvados apple brandy.

What is Calvados Made From?

AOC Calvados

Being the largest of the three AOCs, the majority of AOC Calvados go through a single distillation (called the petite eau) through the column still (although, pot still distillation is also allowed for this appellation). After the first distillation, these spirits must be aged in oak barrels for at least two years.

AOC Calvados Pays d'Auge

AOC Calvados Pays d’Auge covers a small area in the center of Normandy. The spirits produced in this appellation are required to go through double distillation in a copper pot still and aged for a minimum of two years in oak barrels. The spirit from Pays d’Auge is considered to be the finest and best Calvados in terms of quality as it offers elegant flavors with good concentration.

There are rarer versions of Calvados apple brandy within this family too. If you see “single cask” on the label, it means that the aging in oak casks was done in a single and not a blend.

AOC Calvados Domfrontais

The Domfrontais Appellation is located along western Normandy and uses pears along with apples to make the cider. The cider has to contain at least 30% Perry pears and should be distilled in a continuous column still. Unlike the other two appellations, Calvados in this region needs to be aged for a minimum of three years in oak barrels.

How is Calvados produced?

Calvados is an apple brandy, therefore apples are crucial when it comes to its production. Cider fruits are usually small and rich in tannins, a substance that critically influences the aging of ciders. The apples and pears are mashed into a pulp to extract the ‘must’ juice (basically, really good apple juice!) which is then fermented in a tank to turn the sugar into alcohol.

The fermentation usually lasts 21 days (minimum), and once the alcohol level reaches 4.5% abv, the ciders are ready to be distilled.

Calvados is a result of distilling the cider in an instrument called ‘the still’ which condenses the collected alcohol vapors into eau-de-vies. There are two stills used to distill the cider- the pot still and the column still. The distillation process produces a colorless but floral and fruity eau-de-vie which is then transferred into oak barrels.

It is here that Calvados is aged for at least 2-3 years where the spirit absorbs the color from the wood tannins, and slowly matures enough to develop finer aromas and tastes.

In order to sell, Calvados apple brandy needs to be at 40% abv (alcohol content), which is achieved by the cellar master through the process of reduction. Throughout the process, the spirit is mixed with purified water to bring down the alcohol percentage and transferred to different oak barrels to get the desired Calvados taste.

In the aging process, the different bouquets grow over time and combine with each other. Calvados is then bottled and ready to be put on the shelf.

There are quite a few variations in Calvados, the most common one being the Cask Strength version where the spirit is taken from the top of the barrel at its natural alcohol percentage without adding any water.

The Calvados Label

In order to get a perfect balance of notes and aromas of oaky, fruity, and floral tastes, the cellar master blends eau-de-vies of different ages together. The blending requires exceptional skills and is carried out through various tastings. When the blends are bottled, the age indicated on the label refers to the age of the youngest Calvados.

In the case of vintage Calvados, the eau-de-vies that are blended together are distilled in the same year, and thus, the year on the label applies to all the blends. Once Calvados apple brandy is bottled, it stops aging.

Aging of Calvados

The aging of an individual Calvados is indicated on the label. The age statements declare the minimum age of the cognac in the bottle. Here are the different categories:

• Calvados Fine, VS, Trois Étoiles, or Trois Pommes: this Calvados apple brandy is aged for at least two years of age in an oak cask.
• Réserve or Vieux: this Calvados has been aged for three years.
• VSOP or Vielle Réserve: when the Calvados is four years old (like Cognac).
• XO, Trés Vieux, or Hors d'âge: the Calvados is at least six years old, but can be sold for much older.

How to Drink Calvados?

Calvados can be enjoyed in many different ways, be it an old vintage or a young Calvados blend. It is often recommended to drink Calvados in a tulip-shaped glass (if you don't have one, use a small wine glass, the kind for white wine) to reveal the different notes and aromas of the spirit. Calvados apple brandy often works as an excellent aperitif or digestif and can be consumed as an appetizer before a meal.

It can also be sipped throughout a meal although traditionally it is to be enjoyed as a whiskey after a hearty meal. Calvados brandy pairs well with several dishes like foie gras or Normandy cheeses (like Camembert), meats and poultry, seafood, and of course, as an after-dinner drink with desserts.

And Mr. Misadventures and I saw many a Norman having some with their coffee in the morning in the local bars and bistros!

Calvados apple brandy also mixes perfectly with cocktails. Originally, Calvados was known as coup du milieu – a quick drink in the middle of a meal – where it was customary to offer a small glass of Calvados to be shot back in a gulp between two main courses. Nowadays, Calvados is a key ingredient in several wonderful classic cocktails in many international hotels and top bars worldwide.

Visit Calvados France and follow the Route do Cidre where you will find that many of the apple cider producers are also Calvados producers (The Calvados production is often started where the cider product ends), and Pommeau producers and have tasting rooms where you can try them all, including bottles of Calvados to satisfy your curiosity!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about Calvados

Calvados Apple Brandy Recipes

Calvados is not just for drinking, although I will share some of my favorite cocktails, you can also cook with it! Check these recipes for making

Cooking with Calvados recipes:

• Drink Calvados has an EXTENSIVE list of really yummy-looking recipes using Calvados!
• Epicurious has a variety of recipes
• There are 3 recipes I love from Food52:
  • Cider Brined Pork with Calvados, Mustard and Thyme
  • Ricotta Calvados Cake
  • Fig and Anise Clafoutis
• Bon Appétit's Poulet Vallée d’Auge is divine!

Calvados cocktail recipes:

• Difford's Guide 20 best Calvados recipes
• Calvados Old Fashioned from Vine Pair
• Calvados Sidecar from Liquor.com
• Normandy Flower from Gastronom
• Many delicious Calvados cocktails at My Bartender
• Imbibe Magazine has 10 recipes for the fall using Calvados
• And finally, Absolut drinks has a huge list of Calvados drinks

How about you? Have you ever tried Calvados, the apple brandy from France? Do you like it? Do tell!

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The post The Alluring Calvados Apple Brandy from Normandy appeared first on Misadventures with Andi.

Traditional French cidre is made in many parts of France, but mainly in Normandy and Brittany. In my experience, cider from Normandy does taste a bit different from cider from its neighbor. Normandy cider is not as sweet as what we found in Normandy. There is always hot debate about which region has the best French cider, however, since I spent 3 weeks in Normandy discovering their regional delights, this article is going to focus on Norman cider.

Most people are aware that some of the best wines in the world come from France, but the best cider in the world comes from here (France) too. Mr. Misadventures and I can attest to that!

Normandy’s economy is primarily built on tourism and agriculture. In addition to French apple cider, their main exports are cheeses (like Camembert), milk, and butter, seafood like scallops, oysters, and mussels, and thoroughbred horses. France is the largest cider-producing country in the world and a lot of that cider comes straight from Normandy.

Throughout the regions of Normandy (Calvados, Eure, Manche, Orne, and Seine-Maritime), you will find fantastic apple juice, pectin jelly, and local pastries all featuring apples. Along with its lesser-known pear products like homemade pear cider from the numerous pear trees that also dot those rolling green hills! More on that later.

Each year Norman farmers, cider houses, and cider makers harvest more than 300,000 cider apples from their farms and orchards. In fact, between September and November, you can participate in apple harvesting at some farms and festivals. If you would rather eat than work, the events are a great place to have a traditional French buckwheat pancake called a galette and a bowl of cider!

Cider has been popular in France since the first century B.C. when it was made by the Celtic Gauls. There are also historical references to cider in France from 100 to 300 A.D. when the Romans were in power. In the 9th century, Charlemagne ordered more apple trees to be planted in what is now the Normandy region of France, so that he could always have cider available, a drink of choice for this famous French king!

William the Conqueror, the first King of England, and Duke of Normandy was also fond of cider. (I am not sure what his citizens back in England thought of his preference for French-style cider over English cider!) It is thought that cider became more popular in the Normandy region than wine because grapes don’t grow well in the cooler, less sunny climate.

During Medieval times cider was a very common drink, even more so than water. Water was often impure, and especially once the Black Plague struck even children drank cider because it was safer to drink than the water.

During World War II many of the cider apple and pear orchards in the area were destroyed. Still, the farmers in the area made a point to plant new orchards to help boost the economy and rejuvenate the industry. (They also hid a lot of cider in oak barrels that they buried!)

Today there are more than 10,000 small farms in Normandy that grow the beloved bittersweet apples and produce cider. Many of them are winners of Medaille d'Or competitions.

Cider in Normandy can be made from the juice of apples or ripe pears, and each one has its own flavor profile, and name. There are more than 200 varieties of apples that can be used to make French cider. The most common variety is the Frequin Rouge. as with grapes that are used to make wine, many things affect the taste such as soil, climate, rainfall, nutrients, and acid content.

French cider apples are not the sweet apples that you might think of as an American that is used to make apple pie, instead, the flavor of cider apples is more of a bittersweet flavor with low acid content. That is not to say that the resulting ciders won’t have a sweet flavor profile (in fact, there are a lot of sweet ciders). But if you take a bite out of a cider apple it probably won’t taste like what you are used to.

Apples in Normandy are ready for harvesting from the middle of September all the way through December before the first hard frosts begin. The apples can be harvested by machine or by hand, but harvesting never begins before the apples naturally begin to fall from the trees indicating that they are ripe and ready.

Once the apples are harvested they are sorted, washed, and crushed or pressed with their skin and seeds intact to remove their juice, this juice is referred to as a “must”. The “must” or juice is then stored in large vats or oak barrels in cold temperatures for approximately a week. After a week’s time, the natural pectin inside of the apples will form a jelly and rise to the top of the vat or barrel.

Pectin is the ingredient that is added to help jams and jellies set, and apples have it naturally. When the pressed apples are left to sit in cool temperatures the pectin rises to the top and congeals after about a week.

After the pectin rises to the top the heavier solids from the pressed apples sink to the bottom of the vat, and what is left in the middle is the juice that cider makers are looking for. This juice is then extracted from the vat and bottled, or again placed in oak barrels to ferment slowly for three to six months.

Types of French cider

There is more than one category of French cider, in fact, there are three distinctly different cider categories. The first French cider is cidre, traditional cidre sometimes called cidre doux, which has a very low alcohol content, no more than 3-5% alcohol by volume (French hard cider because it contains alcohol), and fairly high sugar content. The flavor of this cider is sweet, fruity, and light. And it has lovely delicate bubbles.

[If you prefer the use of the most natural ingredients, then try to find a cider maker who uses the keeving process which is an artisanal method for creating a cider with residual sugars, making cider sweeter more naturally. Only cider apples are used. The process prevents yeast from fully fermenting apple juice into cider. When you ferment all the way, the yeast consumes all the sugar which can also deplete excess nutrients and give you a funky flavor.

The second French cider is known as cidre demi-sec with three to four percent alcohol by volume and a slightly heavier full-body flavor and consistency than cidre doux while maintaining a very balanced taste.

The third type of French cider is called cidre brut, with an alcohol percentage by volume of four or more. This type of cider has a drier flavor with a lower sugar content, which is more tartly flavored than sweet.

More apple-based Norman drinks

Calvados

Calvados is another distinctly Norman beverage, in fact, you can’t call it Calvados unless it was made in Normandy. Some people refer to Calvados as being similar to brandy, but brandy is traditionally made from grapes while Calvados is made from apples and occasionally pears.

Calvados is made by aging French cider in an oak barrel for at least two years. This will result in higher alcohol content than French cider has. The longer the Calvados age in the barrel, the smoother the taste and flavor profile will be.

Calvados received its Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) designation in 1942, which requires it to be produced with a specific method in a specific region to be considered true Calvados. If it has not been aged for the requisite two years it is not eligible for the AOC title. (AOC has started to be replaced by PDO designation of origin, which is the European Union version of AOC.)

Calvados is typically served after meals as a digestif or in between courses at a multi-course meal, particularly in between meat courses to cleanse the palate and prepare your tastebuds for the next course. In some cases, the Calvados is served with a small amount of apple sorbet, and this is known as a trou Normand.

Pommeau

Pommeau is a combination of Calvados liqueur and freshly pressed, non-fermented apple juice or must. Once these two mixtures have been combined they are aged for at least 14 months, the Pommeau cannot be sold commercially until at least the 15th month.

Pommeau is often served before meals as an aperitif to prepare your palate for the meal to come, but its sweet flavor makes it a nice pairing with a dessert course as well. Pommeau should always be served well-chilled and has a 16-18% alcohol content by volume.

Pommeau is a relatively new beverage, which is officially referred to as a mistelle, a blend of brandy and fruit juice, that was only known to apple farmers until 1981 when it was allowed to be sold to the public. In 1986, Pommeau received its Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) designation, which means that it must be produced under specific processes according to French law.

La Route du Cidre

When visiting Normandy you can even travel the La Route du Cidre or the Cider Route, a 25-mile-long trail across the Pays d'Auge, by vehicle or bicycle stopping in at local farms and tasting the cider along the way. The road is marked with signs shaped like a red apple that read Route du Cidre to guide your way.

This route will take you down narrow country lanes past half-timbered houses with beautifully maintained gardens, through different villages, and from farm to farm. The countryside with castles, apple orchards, farms, and maybe even some thoroughbred horse sightings is the perfect setting for this distinctly French journey.

The cider route begins approximately 20 miles outside of Caen in the village of Cambremer. From there you will continue your journey to Grandouet, Montreuil-en-Auge, St-Ouen-le-Pin, La Roque-Baignard, Bonnebosq, Beaufour-Druval, Saint-Aubin-Lébizay, Beuvron-en-Auge, Hotot-en-Auge, Victot-Pontfol, and Rumesnil, a tiny village with less than 100 inhabitants before returning to where you began the trip in Cambremer.

Bear in mind that the cider route is not a straight line, but a journey that crisscrosses the French countryside from destination to destination. You are under no obligation to stop at all of the cider farms but can instead choose the ones that seem the most interesting to you and your traveling companions.

The Cider Route (Route de Cidre) is about 25 miles long in total with more than 20 different cider farms available for you to stop in along the way. The cider producers who are part of the route have signs marked “Cru de Cambremer” outside of their farms so that you can find them easily as you travel along the route.

The Misadventures family recommends stopping at La Galotière in Crouttes along the route. We had such a wonderful outing there and you can try every variety of drink mentioned in this article!

Most of the cider farms that you will encounter have more than one type of cider for you to try. And many of the farms will also give you a tour of the history of French cider, its importance to the culture, and how it is made today.

In addition to tasting the different ciders, you can also see how the different types and flavors are paired with complementary foods. You can purchase cider (both dry cider and sweet cider) to enjoy once you are back at home. It is available in the US as well. We often bought it at Trader Joe's stores on the West Coast (but not on the East) and there are lots of cideries popping up all over the country that mimic French cider as well.

How about you? Which types of French cider are you most looking forward to trying on your next trip to Normandy, or do you plan to give them all a taste and bring home some of your favorites? Do tell!

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I have just returned from visiting Normandy for 2 weeks and I am excited to share all about Camembert!

What is Camembert Cheese?

Camembert (pronounced cam-om-bear; the ‘t’ is silent in French) is one of France’s most emblematic cheeses! It is a deliciously soft, ripened, white mold French cheese whose success and popularity grew so much over the years that it was exported and produced all around the globe.

Where is Camembert Cheese from?

Camembert hails from the Normandy region of Northern France, specifically from the little village of Camembert. This cheese was first mentioned in the early 18th century, and the most popular story of its origin states that it was created by Marie Harel, the wife of a local farmer in 1791.

The story goes that during the French Revolution, a priest who had fled his native area of Brie was under Marie’s shelter and assisted her in creating a soft cheese using a similar technique as the Brie cheese. She added her own knowledge to its production, and thus, Camembert was born.

In the 19th century, when railroads could carry large amounts of cheese across the country, a French engineer named Ridel created a small wooden box to make carrying the cheese easier. This simple idea soon spread and all the producers adopted the wooden box. During the First World War, this cheese was issued to French troops, thus making it even more popular in France. 

Can Camembert be produced anywhere in the world?

Traditionally, Camembert was made using raw cow’s milk, but pasteurized milk was replaced as the main ingredient as the years passed. The producers of Camembert did not apply for protected status, and as such, it can be produced anywhere in the world without following the exact recipe.

Camembert de Normandie, on the other hand, has a Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) since 1983 and Appellation d'Origine Protégée (AOP) since 1996. This means that Camembert de Normandie has to be made from at least 50% milk from Norman cows who graze in Normandy for more than six months of the year. This version follows the traditional recipe where lait cru or raw milk is used to make the cheese. 

There are strict regulations that producers must follow when manufacturing cheese and it needs to adhere to strict dimensions. Camembert de Normandie must weigh at least 250gm and have a fat content of a minimum of 45%. It is produced in Normandy in several municipalities like Calvados, Orne, Manche, and Eure. 

How is Camembert made?

Camembert de Normandie must be made from raw cow’s milk, although other variations can use pasteurized milk. Lactic ferments and yeast are added to the milk to help in coagulation. The milk is ripened at 12°C/54°F for several hours before it can be coagulated with liquid bovine rennet.

This process transforms the milk into a soft curd which is then cut, molded, and drained for several hours. The curd is then removed from the mold and brined with salt on one side and Penicillium candidum on the other to add flavor and prevent any unwanted mold from catching on. 

The cheese is stored on shelves and regularly turned to achieve even mold growth. The skin of Camembert ripens the cheese from the outside in. The aging process takes around four weeks, and as the cheese slowly ripens, it becomes creamier in the center and gains a smooth, firm texture.

Maison du Camembert

If you have the opportunity to visit the town of Camembert in Pays d’Auge, be sure to pop in at La Maison du Camembert. In the heart of the village, the Maison showcases the secrets of making this beloved cheese. The visit has an audio guide in French and English, and is followed by a tasting of three kinds of Camemberts!

You can also indulge in some of the other local products like ciders and jams. To add a bit of fun, the Maison can add your photo to the label of your Camembert cheese!

Address for la Maison du Camembert: 61 Le Bourg in Camembert.

Camembert vs Brie

Camembert and Brie are both French creamy cheeses with a bloomy, pleasant rind. Both originate in northern France and are made out of cow milk. Known for their creamy texture and edible rinds, these soft cheeses have similarities, but they are not exactly the same. Both are amazing in their own way but Brie has a more refined taste as compared to Camembert’s rustic texture.

What is the difference between Camembert cheese and Brie cheese?

The easiest way to differentiate between the two is by size. Camembert usually comes in smaller wheel sizes, around 8-10 centimeters (3-4 inches) in diameter, and is sold as a whole. Brie, on the other hand, comes in much larger wheel sizes (unless it’s baby/petit Brie) and can be sold in pre-cut pie-style wedges.

Brie cheese originated in the Brie region of Île de France and has a much longer history compared to Camembert. Records of people enjoying Brie date back to the 8th century whereas Camembert was a much more recent appearance of the 18th century.

While Brie and Camembert have a similar production process, Camembert has stronger lactic starters than Brie, giving Brie milder flavors. In some processes, cream is added to the Brie cheese to give it an extra creamy texture. 

When it comes to smell and taste, Camembert has an earthy smell while Brie is lighter with a buttery aroma. The smell translates into taste making Camembert intense and heavier on the tongue while Brie is softer and mild.

How to eat Camembert Cheese?

Camembert can be baked as a whole or used as an ingredient in savory pies and quiches. The cheese also works well in a sandwich and a salad. Or eat it all own its own with a glass of wine!

What is baked Camembert?

Camembert can be baked in an oven for 6-10 minutes or more until the body is warm and melting. To bake Camembert, make sure you remove any stickers and stapled pins from the box. It can be baked in the wooden box it comes in (without the lid); just slash the top to add some herbs or flavors and pop it in the oven until gooey. Put the warm Camembert on a platter and surround it with dippers like crackers or bread, and accompaniments like jams or flavored oils.

If you’re baking Camembert, it is best served immediately after taking it out of the oven. When serving a wedge, ensure it’s room temperature and not straight out of the refrigerator. 

Camembert can also be added to recipes. Chop up some pieces to add to a salad with arugula greens, apples or pears, and nuts like pecan or walnut. 

Here are some of my favorite baked Camembert recipes:

• Baked Camembert with Cranberry & Walnuts
• Baked Camembert With Jam
• Baked Camembert with Honey and Chili Flakes
• Pasta With Baked Camembert

What to serve with baked Camembert?

Warm, melting Camembert is a true indulgence and goes down well with evenings with friends and close ones. Baked Camembert is an easy dish that can be paired with several sides, including good old bread pieces and sweet fruit. Choosing what to serve with baked Camembert can help you set the mood for the meal, be it playful, traditional, or experimental!

For a savory note, roasted vegetables, Brussel Sprouts, roasted garlic, honey-glazed carrots, olives, and pickles (the list is endless!) add a wonderful flavor to baked Camembert. When choosing a sweeter palette opt for fruits like grapes, baked pears, or even nuts for an extra crunch. Jams are also a great way to balance the creamy palette with its fruity sweetness.

You can never go wrong with baguettes, breadsticks, and crackers – the crispy or chewy texture is a great contrast to warm gooey cheese.

And of course, a honey drizzle is a classic camembert combination to top it all off. 

Can you eat the rind/skin of Camembert?

When it comes to eating cheese, the most frequent question is whether to eat the rind or not.  As a rule of thumb, if the rind looks completely different and seems more brittle than the actual cheese, it is better to leave it out of your palette but it largely depends on the taste. You can always take a bite to gauge the experience before committing to it.

Soft cheeses like Camembert and Brie tend to have a bloomy rind that has a mild yet pleasant taste. It is made up of Penicillium camemberti and is responsible for giving the Camembert its distinctive flavor. The rind is critical to the integrity of the cheese and as such Camembert experts insist on eating the cheese within two or three days of opening the rind.

How to store Camembert after opening it?

The best way to maximize the shelf life of any cheese is to ensure it’s refrigerated. When it comes to Camembert, a soft cheese, it largely depends on how you store it, and a well-stored Camembert can last 1-2 weeks.

An excellent way to let the cheese breathe is by wrapping it in parchment or cheese paper, never a cling wrap, and stored in its original wooden box. This stops the cheese from sweating and retains its flavor. When Camembert starts to go bad, it will develop a hardened texture around the edges, darken slightly in color, and come down with an off-smell. If you see mold growth that is not a part of the actual manufacturing process, it’s best to discard it altogether.

Can you freeze Camembert?

Most cheeses that are frozen tend to lose their texture but flavors and cooking properties remain unchanged. That being said, soft cheeses like Brie and Camembert should not be frozen as they tend to lose their moisture and it can affect their flavor. These cheeses have a high moisture content that is affected by the ice crystals, making them dry and unappetizing.

In some cases, Camembert cheese can be frozen but you have to be ready for it to lose its texture. The best way to freeze Camembert is by wrapping it in aluminum foil, then a layer of plastic wrap to keep the smell intact, and finally vacuum sealing it in a freezer bag. The seal reduces the fermentation time. When ready to eat, transfer the Camembert from the freezer to the refrigerator and defrost it for at least 24 hours or up to 48 hours.

Well, that's it! All you could ever want to know about Camembert cheese. If you ever visit Normandy it is a must to try several varieties!

How about you? Have you tried Camembert at home? How about in France? Do tell!

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But honestly, it is just nutty.

So NOT worth a visit UNLESS you visit before 10 am.

8 million people visit every year, the daily average is 8,000, higher during the traditional summer vacation season. A teeny, tiny island. 8,000 people. You do the math.

We visited for the first time in 2010 prior to the parking lot, the bridge, the visitor's complex. It was a Tuesday in October. We were lucky. There weren't a lot of crowds. We didn't wait in line. I didn't feel like I was in an amusement park. Fast forward almost 10 years. Last October (2018) we spent a weekend in Saint-Méloir-des-Ondes/Cancale and took the opportunity to head back over to Mont St Michel for a sunrise shoot. Our target was the GR-22 (GR223) which connects with the GR-34. This is the hiking path that I have frequently mentioned in posts about places along the Brittany coast, like Saint-Malo and Cancale. The GR-34 runs right in front of Mont St Michel and as it is public land, there are no restrictions for walking through.

Here there is a sheep farm, the famous pré-salé sheep. These are lamb raised in the salt marsh fields in front of Mont St Michel. The sheep graze on the high salinity grasses giving their meat a distinctive taste. It is considered a delicacy and there is an annual festival in the spring where they grill the lamb and celebrate. An entrance to the GR-22 runs alongside this sheep farm. If you arrive just before sunset you can watch the farmer and his trusty dog herd the sheep from their barn in the center of their little village across the street and onto the pasture. If you are cautious and courteous you may even be able to capture it on film. We decided not to but did follow the sheep out as the sun began to rise on the mist, producing a beautiful golden tinge.

You can follow the trail all the way out to the Bay. Word of caution. It is muddy and well, there are hundreds of sheep so you know, lots of stuff you don't want to step in with dainty sandals. It is also fairly chilly in the morning, so dress in layers and be prepared. You have beautiful unobstructed views of Mont St Michel and the Mont St Michel Abbey whether the tide is in or out and I highly recommend taking advantage of this little walk. Just be respectful of the farm and watch your step!

How to access this entrance to the GR-22/GR-34: the sheep farm is in Pontorson, along the D275 (departmental road 275). Almost at the intersection of D275 and D280, if you hit the Auberge de la Baie you've gone a tiny bit too far. There is a parking “area” that will accommodate about 6 cars, otherwise, you'll need to drive down the road, park and walk back. (Do NOT block the farmer's gate!). The GPS coordinates are 48.616179, -1.489061. There is a wood step to access the GR-22 path that runs between 2 of the farmer's pastures until it opens up about 1/2 mile down.

During that particular weekend adventure, we did not attempt to visit the actual island but made our way through the countryside around it. Another great view of Mont St Michel and the Mont St Michel Abbey is from the village of Beauvoir. There are multiple places from the small village where you can have a fantastic vantage point of Mont St Michel. The image below is at sea level, we could have gone up a little hill a bit, but we liked the flowers in the fields. (Actually, the stuff in the right is colza or rapeseed that is harvested for oil). When we returned in April, the fields had been harvested and the photo wasn't as nice.

If your early morning excursion has fatigued you a bit, stop into the St Michel Café (they don't open until 9 am!) and visit the Biscuiterie de la Baie du Mont St Michel, a cookie and souvenir shop right down the street from either the sheep farm or Beauvoir. They have large front windows that have a great view of Mont St Michel. The coffee is pretty good and the pastries as well. We sat there and admired the view for quite a while.

Near Beauvoir is the Moulin de Moidrey, a working flour mill that you can visit near Mont St Michel. The miller sells his flour and does his own tour. He is quite attentive and guides you through the milling process like a proud papa! There is a view of Mont St Michel from the windmill as well, but we captured the actual windmill instead! The Moulin de Moidrey is located at 35 Rue des Moulins (Pontorson).

Okay, okay. I know! But what about the actual Mont St Michel? During our latest Brittany road trip, we went back to Mont St Michel. Our intent was to get the sunrise and then visit the Mont St Michel Abbey afterward. But when it came down to it, we just couldn't stand the thought of those crowds. So here is what we did do. We arrived at the parking complex at about 6 am. Given that the bus service does not start until 7:30 there weren't any cars in the lots (except those lots for hotel guests of people staying on Mont St Michel). We had our choice of spots. If you visit and find yourself in the same situation, choose parking lot 9 or 10, they are actually the closest to the ticket booth, transit area, and walkway. The walk to Mont St Michel from the parking lot is about 2km/1.25mi.

If you go early as we did, you have the walk all to yourself and you have plenty of opportunities to take photos as you head into the island. The bridge allows people to enter nearly around the clock, but there are high tides that still cut off the island from the mainland. So know where to check the tide charts and pay attention.

Once you arrive, walk right in. There will probably be a few employees of the various shops and restaurants slowly making their way in, but otherwise, you will be pretty much alone. Do me a favor and close your eyes as you walk past all the crappy/over-touristic/made-in-China restaurant, shops, and hotels. Don't stay on the island, don't eat on the island, don't shop on the island. You will be ripped off and disappointed. Service in France is not great, to begin with, add in 8,000 people a day and the service is atrocious. And that famous La Mère Poulard omelet? Do you really want to pay €34 for some eggs? Or the La Mère Poulard fish stew? It was trash day the morning we were there and that famous stew they charge €15 a bowl for? Straight from a bottle. I took a photo of dozen of bottles thrown into the trash in front of the restaurant. My point is, don't get sucked into the hype. Visit the island. Visit the Abbey. Forget the rest. Including the crowds! Go in the morning!

In the morning you will be able to take shots of empty streets.

And gorgeous shots of the bay that you don't have to stand in line for.

When you get to the top of the hill and reach the Abbey and Monastery you won't be able to enter as they do not open until 9:00 or 9:30 depending on the time of year, here is all the information you need on opening hours, etc. My recommendation to you is that you pre-purchase your tickets online and be there before opening to pass with ease and have an opportunity to see the church before the majority of the crowds descend. You can buy online here, here, or here. The Mont St Michel Abbey is quite beautiful and definitely worth a visit, just be prepared. Get in first thing and get out.

Places to Visit Around Mont St Michel

After your morning visit to Mont St Michel, you can spend the rest of your day enjoying the surrounding area

• The medieval villages of Dinan or Fougeres, both 1-hour from Mont St Michel. You've got the entire second half of your day to get lost in the middle ages in these pretty villages.
• Hit the coast and check out oysters in Cancale an hour from Mont St Michel. Or hike the GR-34, from Mont Saint-Michel to Cancale is 9 m/15 km.
• Learn about pirate history in Saint-Malo an hour from Mont St Michel.
• For other spots in Normandy, Mont St Michel is an hour and 40 minutes from Omaha Beach; 2 hours from Deauville and a little over 2 hours from Honfleur.

How about you? Have you been to Mont St Michel? What was your visit like? Do you have recommendations for people wishing to visit?

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Location: Chateau de Breuil in Cheverny, France.Save

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Location: Chateau de Fontaine Henry in Courseulles-sur-mer, France.Save

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This particular episode called “Le génie des bâtisseurs” (the genius of the builders) covered various kings and royalty who built some of the most magnificent châteaus that are still some of France's most prized treasures.

The main focus of this show was around the Château de Blois, a chateau that I have yet to visit, although it is definitely on the list to see. I have been to several other châteaus in that region that were built by many of the same people. One of those was King François I (or François Premier) who was greatly influenced by Leonardo da Vinci.

Unless you were asleep at the wheel in the early 2000s, it is likely you read The Da Vinci Code or at least saw the movie which came out in 2006. So you are probably aware of some of the history surrounding Da Vinci and France, but there is a lot more and it is fascinating.

During the summer of 2004, I visited the château at Chambord where there is a second copy of The Last Supper (fun to study if you are a Da Vinci Code fan!). There is a beautiful helix staircase that is similarly present at the Château de Blois. Another château and residence of François I is the Château in d'Amboise which I have visited a couple of times.

But more interesting than the chateau is the last home of da Vinci located in Amboise as well. I had no idea of its existence, Mr. Misadventures and I sort of stumbled onto it while walking around the town.

Known as the Clos Luce, this home, museum, and park are fascinating to explore. While looking for the exact name of the location, I found this great post by Tara Bradford of Paris Parfait. As she is a really good photographer the photos in the post are worth checking out. I spent several hours wandering around, checking out some of the many, many inventions that this brilliant man created. This is just one example:

Da Vinci came to France in 1516 at the invitation of François I and the king lent da Vinci his Clos Luce residence. He also gave him a pension on which to live so that he could continue to paint and illustrate and invent as well as work on architectural projects for the king as well as on irrigation systems for several local rivers. Leonardo died in May of 1519 and is buried in the Chapel of Saint-Hubert in the castle of Amboise.

In France and not Italy.

I never tire of learning new things about this country that I am so intrigued by.

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He was the master of La Cave de Beuvron, a “temple du ‘bon manger” in Normandy. He happily welcomed my husband and I and instantly recognized fellow gourmands, not only of food but also of life in general.

He explained all his products as if they were his children, taking pride in their creation, their ingredients their final outcome. There were no favorites, we adored them all and lovingly pointed out details of all of them. He offered a taste of everything from his confits, his rillettes, to the foie gras third in production in France he proudly informed us.

He was not pushing us to buy, although we certainly did, simply to taste and enjoy. He offered samples of his cider, his calvados, and his pommeau, and when we declined to say it was too early, he invited us back in the afternoon when the timing might be better for us.

We spoke about the U.S. and California in particular. We discussed the food culture in the San Francisco Bay Area and Napa Valley. He was very sophisticated without being snobby and appreciated good food no matter where it came from.

As we made our purchases and headed out the door we stopped to talk about his car, he told us all about it and how much he enjoyed driving it. All the while I was taking photos of his little coin which was adoringly staged. I wanted to take a photo of him, but I was afraid of pushing my luck, that I might be encroaching on his privacy so I didn’t.

I stood there in shock as my husband continued conversing with this very friendly man. I was in shock, still disbelieving that this was occurring, staring at him, probably with my mouth agape trying to comprehend a situation in which a complete stranger was enthusiastically communicating with us, a French stranger no less!

Walking back to the car, I was afraid to look for fear that it had all been a mirage.

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La Cave de Beuvron is located in Beuvron-en-Auge one of the main stops on La Route du Cidre in Normandy, a driving circuit that is breathtakingly beautiful.

Suggested itinerary:

• Leave Paris mid-day on Friday and drive the 2.5 hours to Beuvron-en-Auge
• Stay in Le Pavé d'Hôte in town and walk to dinner at the recommended Le Pavé d'Auge
• Wake up eat breakfast and walk to La Cave de Beuvron, stopping at the boulangerie on the way for some bread, and then pick up picnic supplies for your tour of la route du cidre.
• Spend the day leisurely driving, stopping, eating, relaxing, and enjoying the wonderful Normandy countryside, partaking of calvados and pommeau tastings as you go.
• Have dinner at the Colomb'Auge creperie or at the Café La Forge Restaurant Le Terroir.
• Drive back to Paris gently on Sunday.

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On our last day in Brittany, we visited Le Mont Saint Michel, a village famous for its cathedral which becomes impossible to access once the tide is high.

We could not come this far west without taking the time to visit. Luckily we came in October and visited on a Tuesday, as it is very touristy.

After seeing photos and watching television shows about the city I expected it to be a lot farther from the mainland than it actually was. I also was led to believe by Mr. Georges Pernoud of the show Thalassa that it was quite a hike to the top which was just not the case, I just think the host of this wonderful show is out of shape!

It is a religious city that people pilgrimage to, but I found it to be more a temple for tourists than for anything else. Despite not practicing any religion, in particular, I love visiting cathedrals and have been to many in Spain, Portugal, France, and other countries in Europe. I enjoy the architecture and it might be silly but since reading Dan Brown’s books I love hunting out symbols.

Interestingly enough, in the stone in front of the main cathedral, there were tons of 6’s, 8’s, and A’s, which I am dying to know why.

I did have my own religious experience in that I took the two best photos of my life. They were a gift from the cathedral. I saw them with my eyes, I framed them in my mind and “prayed” that my camera could capture them. When I looked at the photo I took in the viewer it was exactly what I wanted, and beautiful.

After several hours in Le Mont Saint Michel, we headed south along the coast at a leisurely pace thrilled at the beautiful weather we were having and marveling at how empty these small little coastal towns were.

We stopped at some shops that advertised regional products and picked up sardines, sea salt, and salted caramels. We planned to pick up a loaf of bread from the Chateau Richeux in the morning before we left and added some picnic supplies as well including tuna with seaweed, langoustine, cepes mousse, and sardine rillettes.

Picnic supplies in hand we returned to the chateau for a little rest before dinner. After two nights of meals in the chateau restaurant (in which we tried everything anyway!) we decided to go back to Cancale for dinner. We tried a brasserie that served a lot of seafood that we had seen the day before, but it wasn’t open so we decided on one last crepe.

But we didn’t end up at any old creperie, but a famous one at that! The very first creperie that opened in Tokyo. Breizh (Brittany in the Bretagne language) Café has five locations including Paris, Cancale, and Tokyo. Their business in Japan is thriving and I can see why the food is excellent.

Their cider selection is top-notch, we had a bottle by a producer we had never tried before and it was the best we ever had. We even talked the owner into letting us buy an unopened bottle for our planned picnic.

After a starter gallette sliced like sushi, a gallette entrée, and a crepe dessert with a beer and half a bottle of cider I was rolling out of the restaurant! The evening was gorgeous and the walk back to the car was pleasant, the light of the evening sky exceptionally beautiful.

The perfect way to end our last day in Brittany.

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Day 3 we were still at the Manoir I mentioned in Part 2. We woke at a reasonable hour and headed down for breakfast as it was supposed to be included in our room charge. Only no one came to serve us.

There were boxes of dried cereal, a single croissant, and half a pastry on a plate. There were glasses for juice and cups for coffee, but no one came to assist us. We even called into the home but to no avail.

Nothing else to do but to start our day coffee-less. Off we went to check out the La Route du Cidre, another driving circuit through the beautiful Norman countryside which included apple cider, Calvados, and pommeau producers. We started the route in Beuvron en Auge where I met the world’s friendliest Frenchman.

At the entrance of the town is a store called La Cave de Beuvron where my husband and I stopped to buy some local products. From the moment we entered the store until we left the owner conversed with us about the products, the weather, California, his awesome car, you name it.

I was in total shock. In all my years of living and visiting France no one has ever been that friendly. It was refreshing and endearing. I wish I had taken a photo of him, but I did not want to push my luck. Instead, I took plenty of photos of his property that were adorably staged.

We walked through the rest of the town and stopped for a crepe. It was a good crepe, a great crepe, but really bad service. My husband lamented that it is a shame that you have to go to Paris to have a crepe that is both good and served well. Sigh.

The route du cidre is a great drive, I highly recommend it. The homes and farms are beautiful, the countryside is so green, so enchanting.

Having had such good luck with that route we decided to continue with another, the Route des Moulins, but we quickly realized that it was not as well organized as the other two routes he had driven over the last two days, and we lost our way. But no matter we ended up in the town of Fontaine-Henry which presented us with a lovely chateau to visit.

We were in luck we had arrived just when the tour for the day was beginning. The chateau had been built and added onto over 4 different centuries and both the inside and outside reflected that. I found it an odd collection of items beautifully housed but woefully displayed.

Being that the chateau was located close to the coast and in the Normandy region, the Germans had, of course, occupied it during WWII (they weren’t stupid). Amazingly, the only damage was 2-3 bullet holes in one of the stairways which were from Canadian soldiers, and a ‘no-smoking’ warning painted in the garage where they stored German gas.

It was a nice spontaneous stop and we enjoyed the visit immensely. Nearing the end of the day we decided to head back, the next day we would be heading to Brittany.

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