This blog post was many years in the making. I have absolutely no idea why I never did this before. Sometimes, we people are just too “close” to things. I've written it at least a dozen times. Every time a friend or colleague was heading to Paris, they would inevitably ask me, “Can you give me some tips and tricks on things to do in Paris, what to eat, what are the best Paris attractions, and what I should not do?”

And each time I wrote a long email or document with a stream of consciousness or data dump on my Paris knowledge and experience. This past Thanksgiving, another happy couple was heading to the City of Light. I dutifully wrote my recommendations and tips from scratch and then swore to myself I would write this post! So here goes!

Bonjour!

If you remember only one thing from this blog post, this is it!

France and the French culture are run by an unwritten code. You don't have to know all the code (trust me, married to a Frenchman and the daughter-in-law of a French mother-in-law, it can be exhausting!), but there is one SUPER IMPORTANT thing to know, remember, and use. I cannot stress it enough!

For every single interaction you have with another human being in Paris (or France), the first thing that comes out of your mouth MUST be “Bonjour” – you are acknowledging that person and showing respect.

So, when you enter a restaurant or store, when you order something at a bakery, when you buy a ticket for a museum, metro, show, etc. When you enter the hotel, if you need to ask someone for directions or help, always, ALWAYS say Bonjour first – trust me, it will get you a lot farther with absolutely everything in Paris (and France). It may feel weird to say Bonjour to what seems like an empty store or to the security guards, but it will be noticed, heard, and appreciated.

The French greatly appreciate it when you try to speak a few words of French, so if you want to practice a few words before your trip, have at it! It's a nice touch that will warm up your encounter.

Also, it isn't necessary to have a big smile when you say it. French people think there is something wrong with us Americans always smiling like we are “crazy” or something!

A few more Cultural Things to Note that will make life a little easier:

• Money does not make the world go round in France; to French people, money doesn’t impress anyone. It is a pretty taboo topic. So “throwing money around” to get better service, etc., is not going to work.
• The French are not known for their customer service, the customer is not always right, and frankly, most people don’t care about providing good service – there are a rare few who do. Don’t get aggravated, etc., if you feel you are getting poor service, it’s not you, it’s them! Getting mad will not do anything (no “speaking to the manager”, etc. just won’t fly…)
• However, if someone, say a lady in a bakery, is getting service, they are getting all the service. This means that if she wants to sit there all day, telling the baker about her daughter, you are just going to have to wait. The good news is that when you are ‘up next,’ you will have all their attention.
• More notes on my observations of French culture!

Shopping Tips:

• You will end up with a lot of coins! I highly suggest a coin purse. Keep your coins separate from your bills; life will be easier. In fact, here is my article on the 5 bags you will need in Paris.
• Make sure you keep Euros on you. Smaller places may not accept cards. Large bills are VERY hard to break! 50 and 100 Euros bills, nearly impossible!
• Except for a few fancy pastry shops and boutiques, most of the shopping bags are crap; they will tear (or if they get wet, the handle may stain your clothing – true story). I always bring several canvas bags with me to throw things into. Bring plastic ones too, they don’t wrap food or pastries very well, so I often find myself putting them in a plastic bag and then putting them into my canvas bag.
• If you go to a farmer’s market or shop for food somewhere like Rue Montorgueil, then I've written a whole post on the etiquette to know.
• Here is my list of the best Paris shopping streets.

Dining Etiquette

Okay, before we get to the food and restaurants, there are a few things to know. Luckily, I've written a whole blog post on this topic as well! But here are some highlights:

• Customization is not a thing in France, so you can’t ask for something with “x removed,” “a side of that,” “no mayo,” etc. It comes the way it comes. The only place you can customize is Starbucks.
• The waiter will not clear away your plates until everyone is done with their course.
• You will have to ask for the check; they will not bring it to you automatically.
  • The one place where this is different is at bars/terraces, where they will usually require you to settle your bill when you are served. That doesn’t mean you have to leave; you can stay all day if you want.
• In restaurants, bars, etc., do NOT leave a tip.

Here is what Barb had to say after she visited Paris for the first time.

Transportation in Paris

Personally, I think walking is the best way to explore Paris! Mr. Misadventures and I can clock 10-15 miles a day while we are on a trip. However, there are times when it makes more sense to rely on other forms of transportation.

Taxis

You cannot flag down a taxi on the street. You have to go to a hotel, find a taxi stand (not always easy), or, in the last few years, you can order one with the G7 Taxi app (France’s version of Uber), and it works pretty well. You will see your taxi marked with G7 on it. Trust me, this is revolutionary. Only a few years ago, it was impossible to get a taxi! If a taxi has a green light, it is available.

If you are taking a taxi from Charles de Gaulle Airport, with all the construction and street closures, traffic is absolutely horrific. That significantly impacts travel times in taxis when traveling from one location to another in the city.

PLUS, there is a new phenomenon at the airport that I witnessed. Depending on the time of day, I saw taxi drivers at the airport rejecting people going to the city (mind blown) because there is a set fare from CDG to Paris, and depending on traffic, taxi drivers lose money.

• Flat rate to the left bank: €58. The left bank is these arrondissements: 5th, 6th, 7th, 13th, 14th, and 15th.
• Flat rate to the right bank: €53. The right bank is these arrondissements: 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 8th, 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th, 16th, 17th, 18th, 19th, and 20th.

Metro

If you are going to use the Metro a lot (it can be very convenient), buy your tickets in a carnet (pronounced car-nay) of 10 tickets; it is more economical. After going through with your ticket, please keep it in a safe place.

Metro police sometimes do random checks with a reader, and in some stations, you need the ticket a second time to get through the entrance. Once you exit, throw away your ticket so you don’t combine it with other tickets. One ticket is one ride.

Here is my full guide to the Paris Metro.

Batobus

The Batobus is a water bus that makes a loop on the Seine River, stopping at 8 locations – 3 on the river's side (near the Louvre) and five on the other side (near the Eiffel Tower), all of which are among the most visited spots. The Batobus is cheaper than the other “bateaux mouches” riverboats.

On the Batobus, you can hop on and hop off within a 24-hour period. We used to buy a 3-day pass, but then we bought an annual pass because it was (a) an easy way to get around and (b) a nice 45-minute ride when your feet hurt and you just want to relax but still see some sites. During bad or rainy weather, it is a nice break as it is covered.

More transportation options in Paris

If you are going to use the train or travel around Paris, here are my guides to assist you!

• Paris Train Stations
• Airports Near Paris

Strikes

Okay. This is not unusual for France in general, especially during the months of May and October. But this year, there is an extra round of strikes around France's retirement pension reform that began in February and will continue throughout the spring which will impact your trip to Paris.

Here are a few things to keep in mind:

• Most of the time strikes = public transportation issues.
  • That means the metro (RER), trains (SNCF and RER), buses (RER), and sometimes taxis too.
  • Make sure your airport transfer is secured well in advance of any possible transit strikes. By pre-booking an airport transfer, you won't be stuck without transport and the hotel will take care of providing updates concerning delays or disruptions that may occur.
  • One thing I do is head to the CDG area the night before my flight so that any possible delays will not force me to miss my flight. I love the Sheraton Paris Airport Hotel but have also stayed at the Paris Marriott Charles de Gaulle Airport Hotel and citizenM Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport.
  • For air travel, 95% of the time international flights are not impacted. However, as soon as you arrive in France, you may have issues if you have inner-France connections to other French airports.
  • BUT you may have trouble getting to the airport on the day of a strike. Taxis will not be able to get through demonstrations at the airport and will drop you off in inconvenient locations and you will have to walk! My best advice is to ask the taxi driver to drop you off at Ibis Paris CDG Airport it is a 5-minute covered walk to Terminal 3. Or the citizenM Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport.
• You can check when and where major strikes and demonstrations are taking place with this site: C'est la Grève. It is in French, but you can use an online translator. It is pretty self-explanatory.
• Before heading out of your hotel check in with the front desk or concierge. They usually know where and when protests are planned. You do not want to be inadvertently swept up into a demonstration. 
• Avoid the large public areas called “Places”, especially around Place de la Republique, Place de la Bastille, Place d'Italie, and Place de la Concorde.  
• Tune into France24 online. It is in English and can help you keep track of what is going on in real-time. Also, try Gov.uk.
• Download the Citymapper app for the latest transportation updates. This savvy app will keep you up-to-date on train and transit info, providing alternative routes when necessary.

Food in Paris

Food is going to feel expensive. It is not all the price of the actual food, but what really gets you is the VAT (taxes) on your meal. Be prepared for that. It is for that reason, we “usually” limit ourselves to one restaurant a day.

Try to get a hotel room that includes breakfast and eat there as often as you can. We usually eat our “big meal” at lunch – a lot of the restaurants have the same amazing menu for lunch that they do for dinner, only cheaper. Particularly the Michelin-starred ones.

One of the best meals of my life was at the Le Grand Vefour located in the Palais Royale. Wow! What a meal, and at lunchtime, it was a steal! Most restaurants open for dinner between 7 and 8 pm – that may be late for you (it usually is for us) – you can always eat at a brasserie, which basically serves food non-stop; there are some really famous ones throughout the city, but also regular local ones as well.

I have a friend who has a great food website – you can look up restaurants by arrondissement, type of food, how expensive, and what days they are open/closed. It is called Paris by Mouth. Meg also offers food tours. I’ve done one or two, and they are good. More on tours later. 

I have lots of friends who live in Paris, and some of them I have interviewed about their neighborhoods, you might want to check them out for their food recommendations.

One of my very good friends, Lindsey Tramuta, wrote a book called The New Paris if you want something to read on the plane, get it! She lives in Paris, and as part of her job (she is working on her second book), it is her responsibility to stay up-to-date on the latest and greatest in food.

One of my favorite foodie spots in Paris is a place called the Grande Epicerie. Essentially a food department store, you can shop, dine in at various spots, snack, and indulge! The Galeries Lafayette in the Opera also has its own version of the Grande Epicerie across the street from their main store, but I prefer the Grande Epicerie. It all depends on where your hotel is and what your plans for the day are.

If you are traveling to Paris in the autumn, don't miss these seasonal favorites. And here are facts about French food most people don’t know!

Breakfast

Parisians and restaurants are not early risers. I am. You will get the earliest breakfast in the hotel. After that, you will have to wait until 8:00 for places like Le Pain Quotidien (a decent breakfast) or, more likely, 9:00 at other restaurants.

You probably won’t be jonesing for an American or British-style breakfast, but if you do, there is NO better place than Holybelly. I’ve only been to the one at 5 Rue Lucien Sampaix – everything is to die for – you must show up before 9:00 – there will be a line!

Here is a little more on breakfast in France.

Coffee

As a general rule of thumb, the coffee in France is not great. Traditionally, they use Arabica coffee, which is pretty bitter. In bars and terraces, the best you can hope for is Café Richard (which has a monopoly) or maybe Illy.

But there are newer American-style coffee shops that have better coffees and smaller independent roasters like Belleville, which are doing great coffee. If you end up having breakfast at Holybelly definitely have their coffee!

More on ordering coffee in Paris. Once you become a pro, here are 13 famous cafes in Paris to practice in!

Lunch

As I mentioned, usually my biggest meal is in Paris. I shared the Grand Vefour, but I have a few other favorites too – Comme Chez Maman; Astier; Pied au Cochon; a fantastic falafel/gyro long lines though – L’as du Falafel; and Breizh Café (amazing crepes).

Dinner

We usually “picnic” meaning we get a good baguette, cheese, meats, pâté, etc, and chill with a bottle of wine. Of course, any of the places I mentioned above are great for dinner too! With one addition, Le Souffle, a restaurant that serves soufflés in 3 courses: a starter, a main, and a dessert – delicious! And unique.

If you want to eat a super traditional French meal in a very historical environment, check out Le Procope.

Dessert

Angelina’s is super touristy, but 100% worth it! There are wonderful pastry shops on Rue Montorgueil. Ice cream – it is worth the line to eat the best ice cream in Paris at Berthillon on Ile-Ste-Louis (behind Notre Dame).

Best gelato in town – Pozzetto (no website: 39 Rue du Roi de Sicile in the 4th). There are pastry shops galore, some specializing in one thing: eclairs, choux, macarons, etc. Here is my full guide to ice cream in Paris.

More Best of Food in Paris

• Best crepes in Paris
• Best donuts in Paris
• Best macarons in Paris
• Best croissants in Paris
• Best ice cream in Paris
• Best chocolate in Paris
• Best hot chocolate in Paris
• Best fondue in Paris
• Best French onion soup in Paris

Things to do in Paris (or NOT to do)

You should note the following activities, just like this entire post, are based on MY opinion. Everyone experiences life through a different lens, which makes the world so interesting! At this point, I just love wandering around and absorbing the city.

But I get you might have a list of spots you want to check off your list. So here is what I have to say about some of the most popular Paris attractions. You should also note that you can use a Paris Pass to skip lines with Fast Track Entry or purchase your individual tickets ahead of time at many of these places.

Also, here is my Paris Arrondissement Guide so you can map out what you want to see in each neighborhood.

Eiffel Tower

I’m just going to say it. I know it is on everyone’s bucket list when they visit, but honestly IN MY OPINION ONLY, it isn’t worth it. At least visiting the actual tower. Remember, when you are standing on it, you are actually not seeing it, and there are better places for views of Paris.

At the moment, with terrorist threats and construction, 3 sides are fenced off, which pushes a whole hell of a lot of people into one flow. Add to that the pickpockets and street vendors, and it is just a nightmare. It has been so smoggy lately in Paris, the view isn’t that great either.

But if you still want to go, just have your wits about you and be careful. Also, when you are done, get the heck out of the area and go somewhere else. Also, if you are going to visit consider a meal at 58 Tour Eiffel which will get you access to the second level.

And make sure to buy your ticket ahead of time!

There is an excellent view from the Batobus. Also, it is beautiful at sunrise (which isn’t too early this time of year) at the Trocadero – I have been a few times and it is usually only about a dozen people.

If you are looking for a hotel with an Eiffel Tower view, I've got you covered!

Orsay Museum

I much prefer this museum to the Louvre, but do both. The Orsay is in an old train station and is absolutely beautiful – great photo spots and a nice café. Buy a ticket ahead of time and skip the line, a fantastic store inside as well.

I've also done an amazing tour in the museum with Context Travel. There are hundreds of wonderful museums in Paris, check out a few more museums in Paris that you shouldn't miss!

Louvre & Tuileries Garden

If you do visit the Louvre, skip the Mona Lisa – seriously, it isn’t worth it, and you should visit the other sections, it is quite beautiful. Buy your ticket ahead of time. Do not buy from someone walking up to you – if you cross the street towards the Hotel Regina from the Westin and continue on the Rue du Rivoli, you’ll come to a shopping mall called the Carousel de Louvre, you can buy tickets at machines in there.

If you really want to do something out of the ordinary try a treasure hunt, my friend Daisy set them up and it is a lot of fun! Also, pro tip: the museum is open until 10:00 pm on Wednesday or Friday evenings. Most people leave at 6:00 on those days because they think is going to close. And do note, the Louvre is CLOSED on Tuesdays!

I highly recommend you spend some time in the Tuileries Garden (here's my guide) next to the Louvre, it is quite beautiful and there is always something going on there!

Champs-Élysées & Arc de Triomphe

I usually avoid this area; I am not a shopper. If you are into French luxury brands, definitely visit their flagship stores; however, most of the merchandise is also available in retail stores around the world. If you do visit this area, take the time to get a picture of the Arc de Triomphe.

Don't forget the underground passageway, it is the only way to get to the entrance. Make sure to buy your ticket ahead of time.

Boulevard Haussmann

The is the main shopping district (yes, there is the Champs-Élysées, but…) located in the Opera district with large beautiful department stores – Printemps and Galeries Lafayette – you will find a large variety of products at decent prices (they have sales unlike a lot of other stores – the French government regulates sales and only really happen twice a year – February and July) plus gorgeous architecture.

They both have rooftop terraces that you visit for nice views of Paris, and they have little restaurants as well. I am addicted to scarves and usually buy all mine at the Galeries Lafayette!

Opera

Also, in Opera, is the Opera building! It’s gorgeous, you can visit guided or unguided, and I enjoy it when I go – their museum store is very good too, and I always seem to pick up something unique there. Buy your ticket ahead of time!

Sacré-Cœur

I would pass it unless you really, really want to visit Montmartre. It is a beautiful, historic neighborhood. Just don’t go in the morning – troublemakers and petty criminals drink there during the night, and there is glass everywhere in the morning until the cleaning crew comes.

With the smog these days, it is not a great sunrise, not sure of the sunset. If you do go for sunset, watch out for pickpockets. If you want to do Montmartre, you may want to do a guided tour or just wander around, but don’t go before 9/10, nothing is open!

Panthéon

TOTALLY under-the-radar 360-degree view of the Paris skyline. Seriously, I have been there twice and done the tower tour with less than 10 people in each group! Get there before 10 (sometimes there are tours, but they don't go to the tower, so don’t worry, you just want to get ahead of them before the opening).

When you go inside to buy your ticket (or buy ahead of time) make sure it has the tower tour as well, the first tour leaves about 10 minutes after they open – perfect for you. Once you get to the top you will be able to go around the entire circular rooftop with great views. Once you go back down, the rest of the Panthéon is nice to visit.

Day Trips from Paris

Versailles

Versailles is a nice day trip. Give yourself the entire day. Once you tour the chateau, you’ll want to visit the grounds (my favorite part, I usually skip the chateau!). There are gardens, Marie Antoinette’s farm, and just lots and lots of places to walk and relax.

We also rented bikes one time and loved it. You can do a tour, but the cheapest and easiest way to get to Versailles is by train using the regional RER, using the C line. Here is a pretty good how-to post on getting to Versailles.

Giverny

I also recommend Giverny as a day trip. It is an easy train ride from Paris to Monet’s home, and it is a great place to visit. The town around his house is fun to wander through. I've been there on a tour with Context Travel and on my own at different seasons, and it is always beautiful!

Here are more suggestions for day trips from Paris.

Tours

As I mentioned, Paris-by-Mouth does fun food-related tours. I have also done a TON of Context Travel tours, not only in Paris but London, Kyoto, Rome, and Florence, it is a great company and they have great, small, curated tours. I loved The Bobo Palate tour and Baguette to Bistro.

I’ve also had fun doing a cooking class at La Cuisine Paris, it is owned by an American and they do classes in English – baguette, macaron – lots of fun!

Bike tours are fun too (as long as they don't spend too much time on the street!). Try this The Beauty (Paris Vendôme) tour, it is such a pretty area.

What to Wear

I am going to be adding to this section, but in the meantime, I have 5 Things I Packed for Paris – springtime edition! Here are some tried and true Paris packing tips:

• Layers, always layers, the weather can shift dramatically, and having layers allows you to dress as cool or as warmly as needed. Also, you can go from a daytime look to a nighttime look very quickly!
• Pack in 2 to 3 colors, making mixing and matching easier.
• No shorts or flip-flops, the French aren't big fans, unless you are doing “le fitness”!!
• Comfortable shoes for all the walking.

I also wrote a whole post on what to wear in Paris – 5 tips for how to pack for Paris along with

• What to pack for Paris for the fall/autumn 
• What to pack for the winter
• What to pack for the spring
• What to pack for the summer

The Ugly Stuff

No one likes to think about crime. The recommendation I have is the same I would tell to anyone going to any big city, including San Francisco. In the most touristy areas of Paris, there are bands of pickpockets. Generally, they are young women from Eastern Europe (gypsies) not trying to be racists, it is just the facts.

They are at the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, and Tuileries Garden (the part closest to the glass pyramid by the Louvre); Sacre Coeur, Pont des Arts (the pedestrian bridge where they used to put the love locks); Champs-Élysées (although less so as the luxury security guards try to keep them away).

They will approach with papers or clipboards in their hands, usually more than one at a time, and bug you, confuse you, etc. They will also bend down in front of you and pick up a ring or gold jewelry and ask if it is yours. They can be quite aggressive.

The best way to keep them at bay is to look them in the eye as they walk towards you and very firmly say “NO!” or if you want to sound French: DE GAGE!” (deh-gahge), which is basically “f*ck off.” Do the same with the people selling you metal Eiffel Towers or keychains. They won’t try to pickpocket you, but they can be aggressive.

I do not recommend a backpack for Paris.

The Metro is safe, just be aware of your surroundings and your bags. Do not make eye contact with anyone and know where you are going ahead of time!

Where to Stay:

For many years I stayed in Montparnasse which has lots of transportation options, great restaurants, and tons of shopping, but then our favorite hotel changed franchises and we began staying at the Westin on Rue de Rivoli and Rue De Castiglione, mainly because I had tons and tons of points.

Once the points dried up we began staying at smaller hotels in arrondissements around the city such as Relais Christine and Hoxton Hotel and had wonderful experiences! That drove us to Airbnb and VRBO which really made us feel like locals.

There are thousands of hotels in Paris options for every budget (including some really stellar hostels) and in every arrondissement, I encourage you to move outside the most touristy areas and find a hidden treasure!

A Few Last Notes:

• Don't try to do everything! Leave something for the next trip. Paris is a very old city constantly evolving. The classics will be there along with all the new stuff. Take a smaller chunk of the city and thoroughly enjoy it. Sit at a cafe and do nothing but soak it all in!
• Visiting Paris on a budget? Paris can be expensive, but here are 5 ways to save! Here are more money (and other Paris) tips.
• And don't just do the obvious! Try out some of these 10 cool and unusual things to do!
• Going to the restroom in Paris isn’t always easy but I've got some tips!
• If you are a Sex and the City fan, here is my list of locations from the final episodes which took place in Paris!
• More film locations in Paris: Emily in Paris, Lupin, and Call My Agent.
• Julia Child's Paris and Coco Chanel's Paris too!
• Want to read some books before your first trip to Paris, here are my suggestions.
• I wrote this post years ago, but my guidance still stands: How Not to be the Annoying American Tourist in Paris
• Here's a 4-day Paris itinerary and a 5-day Paris itinerary that I think is very well done.
• I don't have little ones so I rely on others to share their tips for the best things to do with kids.
• A great run down from Travel with Me 24/7 on Where to Stay in Paris.
• Are you planning your trip in the middle of a French holiday? 
• Coming to Paris with your sweetheart? Paris is one of the most romantic cities in the world, learn romantic things to do in Paris.
• Here are 15 fun facts about Paris, you will be surprised!

Get my FULL Paris Travel Planner with sheets for:

Trip Overview | Travel Budget | Accommodation Tracker | Transportation Tracker | Activities Planner | Pre-Trip Planning | Places to Visit | Itinerary Overview | Daily Itinerary | Arrondissement Guides | Road Trip Planning | Packing List | Outfit Planner | Expense Tracker | Souvenirs & Gifts List | To do List | January-December Planning Calendar | Paris Bucket List Checklist | and Travel Journal Pages

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Well, that's it, my guide for Paris first-timers in a nutshell! I am sure there is plenty I am missing, but I think it is a good start! If you are visiting Paris for the first time please do let me know, I'd love to hear how your trip goes!

How about you? Do you think these tips are helpful? Do you have any to add? Do share!

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The post Paris for the First Time appeared first on Misadventures with Andi.

I have been to Paris more than 50 times. During every month and every season. We often stay 1-2 weeks and move around the city to live like a local in different arrondissements. All that to say I have some experience.

Also, I love all my expat friends who live in Paris, living the day-to-day in the city of light, but there is a different experience when you are visiting as a tourist and not living as an expat or a local. Every time I return it is as a visitor, with fresh eyes, new experiences, and lots of snags.

Sure. Paris is always a good idea. But maybe some times are better than others!

If Paris is where you want to go, I say go for it. BUT I do want to provide information so that this guide serves you and helps set expectations as to what it will be like to visit Paris in 2025.

The good news and there are a lot of new things to visit and see, and several significant re-openings of old favorites.

Hopefully, you will avoid some disappointment by reading this post.

My intent isn't to discourage you from visiting Paris. I just want you to take off the rose-colored glasses for a moment, reset your expectations, then you can quickly shove them back on! I am providing an overview of what to expect in Paris in 2025 (not an update to the usual information about Paris). I hope this information helps make your trip planning easier!

D'accord? Bon ! On y va ! (Okay? Good! Let's go!) with this year's Paris travel guide!

Here is what you need to know about visiting Paris in 2025!

When to Visit Paris

Paris is a year-round destination, and each season offers a unique experience. Spring (March to May) brings blooming gardens and mild temperatures, making it perfect for strolling along the Seine. Summer (June to August) is bustling with tourists, but it's also the time for open-air festivals and longer daylight hours.

Fall (September to November) showcases beautiful autumn foliage, while winter (December to February) offers a quieter atmosphere, with the city adorned with holiday lights. Choose the time that suits your preferences and interests.

Notre-Dame Cathedral has officially reopened to the public, and it’s once again one of Paris’s must-see landmarks. After years of restoration, visitors can now step inside this iconic site and witness its remarkable revival, a true highlight of any trip to the city.

That said, planning ahead is essential.

This summer marks the first season since the cathedral’s reopening, and large crowds are expected throughout the year. While entry is free, you should be prepared to wait in line, typically around 15 minutes, though it can be longer during peak times.

To make your visit smoother, the cathedral offers an option to book free access online a few hours in advance. While entirely optional, this can help streamline your entrance and reduce wait times. Just keep in mind that even reserved-entry lines can have short delays, so timing is everything.

If possible, aim for less busy hours (early mornings or weekdays) to get the most out of your visit. With a bit of planning, seeing Notre Dame can be a memorable and stress-free part of your Paris itinerary.

If you want to learn more about the individual month you are planning to visit Paris in, check out my monthly guides:

PARIS IN:  Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | June | July | Aug | Sept | Oct | Nov | Dec

Paying for Things

The best way to pay for anything in Paris is with a chipped credit card. It is fast, contactless (under 50 Euro) and above all, preferred. If you want to use cash (that is my preference honestly) then have smaller denominations of bills with you. You will have a tough time getting people to break a 50 or 100-Euro note. Heck if you are buying something under 5 Euros, with a 20 most vendors won't be happy!

I mention this in my packing posts on bags, but bring a double-sided coin purse, you will thank me!

Strikes

Okay. This is not unusual for France in general, especially during the months of May and October. But this year, there is an extra round of strikes around France's retirement pension reform that began in February and will continue throughout the spring which will impact your trip to Paris.

Here are a few things to keep in mind:

• Most of the time strikes = public transportation issues.
  • That means the metro (RER), trains (SNCF and RER), buses (RER), and sometimes taxis too.
  • Make sure your airport transfer is secured well in advance of any possible transit strikes. By pre-booking an airport transfer, you won't be stuck without transport and the hotel will take care of providing updates concerning delays or disruptions that may occur.
  • One thing I do is head to the CDG area the night before my flight so that any possible delays will not force me to miss my flight. I love the Sheraton Paris Airport Hotel but have also stayed at the Paris Marriott Charles de Gaulle Airport Hotel and citizenM Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport.
  • For air travel, 95% of the time international flights are not impacted. However, as soon as you arrive in France, you may have issues if you have inner-France connections to other French airports.
  • BUT you may have trouble getting to the airport on the day of a strike. Taxis will not be able to get through demonstrations at the airport and will drop you off in inconvenient locations and you will have to walk! My best advice is to ask the taxi driver to drop you off at Ibis Paris CDG Airport it is a 5-minute covered walk to Terminal 3. Or the citizenM Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport.
• You can check when and where major strikes and demonstrations are taking place with this site: C'est la Grève. It is in French, but you can use an online translator. It is pretty self-explanatory.
• Before heading out of your hotel check in with the front desk or concierge. They usually know where and when protests are planned. You do not want to be inadvertently swept up into a demonstration. 
• Avoid the large public areas called “Places”, especially around Place de la Republique, Place de la Bastille, Place d'Italie, and Place de la Concorde.  
• Tune into France24 online. It is in English and can help you keep track of what is going on in real-time. Also, try Gov.uk.
• Download the Citymapper app for the latest transportation updates. This savvy app will keep you up-to-date on train and transit info, providing alternative routes when necessary.

If you are dreaming about all those awesome Instagram-worthy photos of the Eiffel Tower from the Palais De Chaillot sorry to disappoint you, but the cannons are still out of commission and the carousel is gone for the moment.

This is an enormous project (you can get more info, in French, here and here) that is going to take a while to complete.

This Paris travel guide is about preparing you for the current situation so you will not be surprised! The bright side? There are thousands of places to visit in Paris. There is no shortage of awesome things to see.

And if you want to see some of the major sites, you just need to get a little creative and maybe brush up on your yoga, as you may have to twist your body in some unnatural ways to get that shot!

If you decide to go the Airbnb route, ask if there is any major construction on the street. Read all the reviews for the apartment!

If you are staying in a hotel, call or email them to ask the same question about construction. The last thing you want is to spend money on a nice hotel and then not get the view you want (or worse). Mr. Misadventures and I splurged on a hotel for 24 hours so we could get their rooftop terrace view of the Eiffel Tower only to arrive at the hotel and learn it was closed for construction…le sigh…

Getting Around

Taxis at CDG Airport

Depending on the time of day I saw taxi drivers at the airport rejecting people going to the city (mind blown) because there is a set fare from CDG to Paris and depending on traffic taxi drivers lose money.

• Flat rate to the left bank: €62. The left bank is these arrondissements: 5th, 6th, 7th, 13th, 14th, and 15th.
• Flat rate to the right bank: €55. The right bank is these arrondissements: 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 8th, 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th, 16th, 17th, 18th, 19th, and 20th.

Also when you do get in the cab, confirm the tariff, don’t get scammed!

Start by making sure to get in an official taxi queue/line. (NOTE: licensed “Taxis Parisiens” (Parisian taxis) park outside the baggage claim areas in each terminal). Look for the blue “Taxi” bubbles on the floor at CDG to guide your path to the official taxi line.

Only get into a taxi that has an illuminated rooftop sign (it's a green light). And make sure it has a meter!

Bikes

If it is the first time you are visiting Paris or if it has been a while you need to be aware that there are a lot more bikes than there used to be. More bike lanes too. They can be a real hazard in overcrowded areas, so please be aware of them. You may not realize you are walking on a bike path which could potentially cause an accident. Be on the lookout for them at all times!

Changes in Metro Ticket Pricing

If you’ve visited Paris before, you probably remember how confusing it could be to figure out which tickets you needed for the metro, RER, buses, trams, or trains to places like Versailles or Parc de Sceaux. Different zones, prices, and rules often made navigating public transport a bit of a puzzle, especially for first-time visitors.

But that’s all about to change. Starting January 1, 2025, the fare system across the Île-de-France region will be dramatically simplified, a long-awaited update that promises to make getting around much easier for everyone.

Under this new system, Navigo passes will now have a single fare for all zones, meaning you’ll be able to travel anywhere within Île-de-France, whether in central Paris or out to the suburbs, using the same pass on any mode of public transport.

T+ tickets will be unified across the region: €2.50 for metro or RER rides, and €2.00 for buses and trams (or €2.50 if bought directly on the bus). This replaces the current pricing system, which charged more for traveling further outside the city (e.g., to Disneyland or Versailles).

It’s important to note that connections between different transport types still require separate tickets. So if you switch, say, from a metro to a tram, you’ll still need to use two T+ tickets, just as before.

How to Buy T+ Tickets

Via Smartphone:
The easiest option is to download the Ile-de-France Mobilités app (available on both iPhone and Android). Once installed, the app will tell you if your phone is compatible with contactless ticketing. This method lets you skip the lines at station ticket counters, especially helpful at busy spots like airports and major train stations. Just be sure your phone has enough battery, as you’ll need it to tap through turnstiles (no internet connection required once tickets are loaded).

With a Navigo Easy Card:
Another convenient option is the Navigo Easy card, which you can buy for €2 at larger metro stations. These cards are anonymous (no name or ID required), reusable, and don’t expire. You can lend them to someone else when you're not using them, just not on the same trip. Once you have a card, you can load it with as many T+ tickets as you need for buses or metros, either at a ticket counter, vending machine, or using the smartphone app (though that part can be a bit fiddly). You can also load unlimited day passes or airport bus fares onto the card.

Previously, many Parisians and visitors used the Navigo Easy card to load discounted “carnets” of ten tickets, but this option is going away.

Farewell to the Carnet

One of the biggest changes in 2025 is the end of the T+ ticket “carnet”, the familiar pack of ten paper tickets that came with a 20% discount. These were perfect for occasional riders and tourists who wanted to stock up on cheaper tickets without a time limit.

Paper carnets have already been phased out in recent years, and starting January 2, 2025, you won’t be able to load carnets onto Navigo Easy cards either. The last few metro stations still selling paper T+ tickets will stop offering them entirely by the end of 2025.

So while the carnet may soon be a thing of the past, the streamlined pricing and simpler access should make it easier than ever to explore all corners of Paris and beyond.

New Navigo passes are being included and some are being removed from the ticketing system. You can take a look at all the options on the RATP website.

Restaurant closures

This is a global phenomenon due to the pandemic. Many restaurants around the world have closed including probably some of your favorites in Paris. Make sure you double-check online to ensure that the business is still open.

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Crowd control

Places like the Louvre are introducing limits on the number of people they allow to visit. They are going to be capping the number of visitors to 30,000 people per day. If you are visiting, I highly encourage you to buy your tickets ahead of time.

What about that ETIAS Visa for Americans?

Surprise! The previously scheduled 2024 introduction of ETIAS, a special travel authorization covering most of Europe, has now been postponed until Q4 2026.

The Good News: What to Do in Paris in 2025

This Paris travel guide is not all doom and gloom! Here are just some of the things you can look forward to:

• Museums you can visit for FREE on the 1st Sunday of the month:
  • Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine
  • La Cité de la Céramique de Sèvres
  • Musée de Cluny
  • Musée d'Archéologie National
  • Musée de la chasse et de la nature
  • Musée de la Grande Guerre
  • Musée de l'Air et de l'Espace
  • Musée de l'Histoire de l'Immigration
  • Musée de l'Orangerie
  • Musée d'Orsay
  • Musée des Arts et Métiers
  • Musée du Quai Branly
  • Musée Français de la Carte à Jouer
  • Musée Guimet
  • Musée Gustave Moreau
  • Musée National d'Art Moderne
  • Musée National Picasso
  • Musée Rodin
• The Louvre is showcasing ten major works from New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Ancient Near Eastern collection, on loan during the Met’s renovations until 28 September 2025.
• Atelier des Lumières is showcasing Picasso's art until June 30th and will run The Little Prince Immersive Odessy from April 11th. (38 rue Saint-Maur in the 11th arr)
• The Pompidou Museum is currently showcasing Paris Noir, an ambitious exhibition highlighting the work of 150 African and Afro-descendant artists from the 1940s to the 2000s before the museum closes to the public for major renovations at the end of September 2025, with a planned reopening in 2030.
• The Petit Palais is featuring Worth: The Birth of Haute Couture in Paris, an exhibition tracing the legacy of Charles Frederick Worth (the founder of modern haute couture) through his elegant creations and pioneering innovations, on view from 7 May to 7 September 2025.
• The Louvre is presenting Louvre Couture: Art and Fashion – Statement Pieces, a striking exhibition running until 21 July 2025, showing the connection between historic art and contemporary style.
• The Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris is presenting Matisse and Marguerite. Through Her Father's Eyes, a moving exhibition until 24 August 2025 featuring over 110 works that explore the close relationship between Henri Matisse and his daughter Marguerite, and her important role in his life and art.
• The Musée des Arts Décoratifs is presenting Paul Poiret, Couturier, Decorator and Perfumer, an exhibition from 25 June 2025 to 11 January 2026 that explores the innovative designs and artistic vision of Paul Poiret, highlighting his influence on fashion, the decorative arts, and even perfumery and gastronomy.
• The annual Museum Night (Nuit des Musées) that is celebrated throughout Europe takes place on May 17th. All participating museums offer free admission!
• Nuit Blanche (White Night) will be June 7. This is a major art and cultural event where contemporary art is on display in the streets of Paris from dusk to dawn.
• Heritage Day will take place on September 20 and 21. This is the opportunity (if you can handle the lines) to visit the Élysée Palace, the Assemblée Nationale, and other spots not typically open to the public.
• The Maison Gainsbourg, the long-awaited museum dedicated to the legendary singer Serge Gainsbourg opened in September and ran through Dec 31, 2023. They will re-open their doors for a new round of visits in the spring, with bookings starting in April 2025.
• Disneyland Paris will feature a high-energy show from May 17 to August 31, 2025, with Alice, the Queen of Hearts, and other Wonderland characters at Walt Disney Studios Park.
• New hotels! La Fondation in the 17th, aparthotel Locke in the Latin Quarters, InterContinental Chantilly-Château Mont Royal in the forest of Chantilly, and the reopening of Marriott Hôtel Rive Gauche!

Check out more events and exhibitions in my monthly guides:

PARIS IN:  Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | June | July | Aug | Sept | Oct | Nov | Dec

Don’t miss the opportunity to explore Paris in 2025! To ensure a smooth trip, be sure you know where construction is happening and plan accordingly. Hopefully, this travel guide to Paris updated for this year will help you have the trip of a lifetime!

Once you decide when you are visiting, here are guides to the individual Paris Arrondissements so you can decide where:

Paris Arrondissement Guide | 1st | 2nd | 3rd | 4th | 5th | 6th | 7th | 8th | 9th | 10th | 11th | 12th | 13th | 14th | 15th | 16th | 17th | 18th | 19th | 20th 

And if you are looking for packing advice, I've got you covered!

AUTHOR BIO

Andi Fisher

I am married to a French man, lived in France for 3 years, and have been to Paris more than 50 times. I am always a tourist so the information, tip, and tricks I share are created to help you!

If you're planning a visit to Paris in 2025, you're in for a treat! The City of Light continues to enchant travelers with its timeless charm, world-class cuisine, and iconic landmarks. As someone who has visited Paris more than 50 times throughout the year, I'm here to provide you with the best Paris travel guide that I can that covers everything you need to know about your upcoming trip to this magical destination.

With a little planning, your trip to Paris is sure to be a success!

How about you? Are you planning to travel to Paris in 2025? How can I help?

Don't forget to pin this for later!

Share now!

The post Paris Travel Guide (2025): What to Expect appeared first on Misadventures with Andi.

A vacation rental gives you an opportunity to live in a space curated by a local. Even though a vacation rental does not come with the same services as a hotel, it does give you the flexibility to plan your trips and day-to-day activities, and it can save you money! 

Why are Vacation Rentals the Best Choice for your Holiday in Paris?

Just like home!

A rental apartment means you’re essentially living in someone’s home so have access to all the household amenities – an equipped kitchen, dishes and cutlery, laundry facilities, entertainment options such as books or television, and most importantly, space and privacy.

Vacation rentals are usually a condo or an entire apartment, unlike a single hotel room where you have restricted space and a lack of privacy.

Have a flexible schedule

Being able to plan your time on trips is a big deal for most travelers. Unlike a hotel or a hostel where timings are strict, in a rental apartment, you’re free to plan according to your schedule, and not worry about meal times or sleeping in.

Thanks to fully functioning kitchens, you can cook and eat whenever you please. Sleeping in after a fun night out, and not worrying about breakfast timings alleviates a lot of stress. Furthermore, if you make friends in Paris, you can easily welcome them into your space without having to think twice about hotel policies and rules.

Living Like Local

Finding a hotel that fits within your budget and is in a great locale can be tricky. A vacation rental, on the other hand, is usually located in a residential neighborhood, allowing you free access to the quartier, its streets and shops, hidden gems, and popular hangout spots.

It gives you a sneak peek into a resident's life as you walk on their paths, shop in their stores, and experience and explore the neighborhood as they would.

Variety of rental apartments

Every rental apartment is different, depending on the owner’s choice of decor or the neighborhood it’s located in. This is different from a hotel where the design and the layout are pretty much standard.

This means you get to live in unique places that are cozy, and designed with comfort in mind. When you hop through rentals in different arrondissements of Paris, you also get to explore the different neighborhoods and understand the subtle differences in the living habits of locals.

A home away from home experience

Traveling with a family requires heaps of planning and organization, but it can all be worth it in the end when you get to spend the vacation time together. And a rental apartment can easily make that happen.

With individual rooms for privacy and central spaces for hanging out for meals and entertainment, a rental apartment ensures your entire family can stay under the same roof.

Are vacation rental apartments suitable for a short-term stay?

The cost-saving advantages of renting holiday apartments in Paris multiply with time. If you’re spending a weekend or just a couple of days in Paris, a rental apartment might not be such a good idea as it can cost extra money for services like cleaning and other fees.

Anything less than a week or even less than four days, you’re better off staying in a hotel.

How to Find an Apartment in Paris?

There are plenty of companies and French rental forums to browse through to find the ideal holiday apartment. Some of these cater to foreign travelers (like us Americans!) and take care of most of the things, providing a seamless, luxury experience. Others will only provide a place and expect you to know how things work.

Here are some of the best Paris apartment rental sites:

• Airbnb: One of the most popular sites, Airbnb offers a variety of accommodations, from a spare room in an apartment to a luxury house in a fancy neighborhood. I have stayed in many Airbnbs in various arrondissements around the city and it is my go-to site for rentals.

• VRBO: If you don't like Airbnb, you are probably a fan of VRBO which has the same offerings as Airbnb minus the shared rooms. They have a wonderful collection of apartments, condos, and boutique homes.

• Homeaway: A rental site with listings all over France. The properties are private, giving you the place all to yourself. Be sure to check out the reviews and contact the owners before finalizing a place.

• LeBonCoin: Also known as the French version of Craiglist, Le Bon Coin has some great finds that might not be listed on the vacation rental apartments. You might have to search thoroughly and be able to speak French to get the best deals here.

• Haven in Paris: I met the founder of HiP when I was living in France and know that she has created an absolutely fabulous collection of curated luxury apartments.

• Plum Guide: Another luxury collection of beautiful rental apartments in Paris.

What do you need to know about apartment rentals in Paris?

Do thorough research

Before booking a rental apartment, make sure you do your due diligence by checking all the photos and the reviews, especially the fine print such as various guest policies, pet-friendliness, family-friendly apartments, and feedback from previous tenants.

Not everyone on the internet is set out to trap you in a scam but it doesn’t hurt to be extra careful. Keep an eye out for things such as the floor area of the apartment, the lighting, and the size of the living spaces, as beds tend to be slightly smaller in France.

Some neighborhoods allow loud noises until midnight even on weekdays, so ensure the area you’re booking in, doesn’t affect your sleep schedule.

Ask questions! Mr. Misadventures always asks about the WiFi bandwidth speed, it is super important for remote working (if you are going to be doing that too). We also asked what the nearest metro station is and how far. Most places will not list the address and you won't get it until after you book, but ask for the nearest cross-streets.

Also ask:

• What floor it is on?
• What is on the street level? It can be noisy depending on what is on the street level (like a restaurant or bar)
• Is there an elevator?

The difference in layouts and settings

Paris apartments are built differently and can have space constraints so it is essential to do your research before finalizing a holiday rental. Beds do not equal bedrooms!

Often, you will find the washing machine in the kitchen (or bathroom), either without a dryer or a combo that barely dries anything.

The toilet is usually situated in a different room than the shower and the sink. You may not get a shower, but a tub with a hose. Or a shower with a half-door.

The bathrooms can be slightly darker and may not have a window to let in natural light. This can be a bit of a pickle for makeup and getting dressed.

The charming old Haussmann buildings that everyone loves to stay in often don’t have an elevator. You’ll have a staircase, usually circular and narrow, and hauling your luggage up and down can quickly become tiring.

The hallway lights are either motion-censored or have a button in the corner to switch them on (trust me, you will have problems with this!). The main door of the building will usually have a code to enter and a button to exit. Also, there may be a security gate where you will have to do the same.

The ground floor is known as the rez-de-chaussée. It is level 0 and is not considered a literal floor. The first floor or the first story is the floor after the ground level, unlike in America where the ground floor is usually the first floor, and after that is the second floor.

The landlord will usually explain the different appliances in the apartment when you first check in but often, after a long flight, it can be exhausting to pay attention and retain every bit of new information. Make a habit to note down or take pictures of everyday activities like:

• Codes for the door!
• Where the garbage goes
• How to separate it for recycling
• Connecting to the wifi (actually, try it before they leave!)
• How to use the television!
• Opening and closing doors, etc.

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Location Matters

Paris is not a small city, therefore location is everything! It has 20 different neighborhoods, each with its pros and cons. The city has an excellent transport system but it’s always a good idea to not waste an hour on the metro if you have the option of living closer to the places you wish to visit.

Like any other big city, Paris has its fair share of ghetto areas, and it’s best to avoid living in unsafe areas of the neighborhood.

Extra fees

Cleaning fees are extra costs that can catch you off-guard. Usually, they are included in the booking price but always make sure you’re aware of the incurred cost to avoid surprises. 

You could be expected to pay for the electricity (especially for the heat in winter). The charges can be significant if the rental has poor insulation. Read the fine print in the contract and double-check with the rental agency if in doubt.

Minimum stay, cancellation policies

Although rare, with some rental companies, you can only book from Saturday through Saturday, especially in the summer and during peak tourist season. If you’re arriving mid-week, you might have to book a hotel until you can check in to the rental. Make sure you discuss the contract terms before signing it.

Also, ask for the minimum number of days that you can stay. A holiday rental is worth it if you’re staying at least for a week, anything less than four days and it can get expensive as compared to a hotel. Keep an eye out for cancellation policies and refunds.

Air conditioning is not common

Hotel rooms will have an air conditioning unit but apartments and private homes are not equipped with one, and you might not even have a fan. If you can’t stand the heat, make sure to look for a property that has A/C.

Cracking open the windows is also an option but Parisian windows don’t have a mosquito guard and keeping them open throughout the night can invite a whole family of bugs.

Check-in and Check-out times, baggage room after check out

Like hotels, rental homes will have a standard check-in and checkout time. Ensure you don’t have a lot of time to spare while waiting to check-in. Often, you will have to check out earlier in the day and might not have travel plans until later.

Always check with the host if you can store your luggage after check-out and come back and collect it when it’s time to leave. This way, you don’t have to carry it around town and will still be able to enjoy some time discovering the city. 

There are lots of ways to store your luggage temporarily while waiting to get into or after you depart your apartment. You can rent by the hour, half-day, etc. Or find a hotel you are a member of with a big lobby and hang out there (I have done that so many times at the Le Méridien Etoile!)

There are trips where staying in a hotel makes sense and trips where renting an apartment is a better option. Since I am usually staying for more than a week in Paris, we have been renting apartments and only staying in a hotel as needed for a day or 2.

We love the freedom of visiting the marché and boulangerie and having meals at home with a nice bottle of wine.

How about you? Have you rented an apartment in Paris? Where did you stay? Have any additional tips to add? Do share!

AUTHOR BIO

Andi Fisher

I am married to a French man, lived in France for 3 years, and have been to Paris more than 50 times. I am always a tourist so the information, tip, and tricks I share are created to help you!

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The post Renting an Apartment in Paris for Holidays appeared first on Misadventures with Andi.

Did you bring your red checkered tablecloth?

There’s only one rule for a Parisian picnic and that is, as with all French meals, take your time, savor the food, soak up the ambiance, and as a foreigner take this opportunity to observe the Parisians picnicking nearby.

9 of the Best Picnic Spots in Paris

The Banks of the Seine

The Banks of the Seine is the ultimate place for a Parisian picnic. No grass. No fountains. No picnic tables. And it is absolutely perfect. Anywhere along the Seine will do. Pick your picnic spot close to where you are staying or in full view of a favorite landmark or bridge. Eiffel tower views are guaranteed!

Sit on the pavement, dangle your legs over the river’s edge, relax, and enjoy. You are in Paris after all.

Here along the banks of the Seine, one is guaranteed the full Parisian experience. Just watch. Couples share an intimate kiss and bubbly champagne. Groups of friends gather around sharing baguettes, cheese, and wine (or fruit juice!) while others eat pizza slices in the midst of writing lyrics to guitar music.

Lived moments all set to a backdrop of barges bustling their wares up and down this major waterway. Stay late until the bridges are lit up, and promenade until your feet hurt! This is Paris.

Luxembourg Gardens

A Parisian picnic in the Jardin du Luxembourg is unforgettable. Start with a stroll along the gravel pathways lined with elm trees and tucked-away statues. Can you find a game of pétanque underway or the beehives and insect shelters sheltered in a shady corner?

Infamous green metal chairs are spread around the garden for relaxing, reading, and chatting with a friend. Set a model sailboat slipping across the pond under the watchful eye of the Luxembourg Palace. Perhaps it is a day when a musical entourage will entertain you in the round pavilion.

In the Jardin du Luxembourg it is forbidden to sit on the grounds except at the south end of the park. Here is another perfect place for a picnic! On a beautiful day, you will be in the good company of many Parisian couples and families. Set out your baguette sandwiches and enjoy.

Still hungry for more time in the garden? Check out the Medici fountain or pop into the Luxembourg Museum for the latest exhibition.

Location: Situated on the border of Saint-Germain des Pré and the Latin Quarter in the 6th Arrondissement.

Parc Monceau

Step through one of the nine wrought-iron gateways into Parc Monceau and immediately you know that you have landed in a tranquil oasis not visited by many tourists. Meander the pathways of Parc Monceau and find statues (can you find Chopin playing the piano?), the Egyptian pyramid, and the Corinthian columns.

Don’t miss the Rotunda at the main gates to the park on Boulevard de Courcelles. It is one of the remaining tollhouses from the wall built around Paris in 1787. In 1797, Parc Monceau was the site of the first silk parachute jump. Can you find the monument commemorating this historic event?

When you have worked up an appetite, sit on one of the free benches, or spread your picnic blanket on the grass. You might be the only tourists around on this authentic Parisian picnic.

Location: 35 Blvd de Courcelles bordering the 8th arrondissement and the 17th arrondissement.

Canal Saint-Martin

The branches of the enormous chestnut trees stretch across the bridges of Canal Saint-Martin as boats lazily make their way up and down the locks of the Canal. People of all ages sit on the edge of the canal swinging their legs and sharing a glass or two.

This bustling place is Canal Saint-Martin.

Wander down Rue de Lancry and pick up picnic supplies for your picnic basket at some of the independent boutiques and find a bench by the canal to enjoy your Parisian picnic.

Needing some grass? The Jardin Villemin on the Quai de Valmy is a lovely small park where you can spread your picnic blanket out and relax. You just never know, maybe there will be a band playing on the bandstand.

Location: Quai de Valmy and Quai de Jemmapes in the 10th Arrondissement.

Place Louis Aragon

Situated on the point of Île Saint Louis is Place Louis Aragon. In true French fashion, bring a little collection of Louis Aragon’s poetry or fire up Youtube or Spotify for a selection of his songs sung by Leo Ferre. Now there’s a romantic way to start your Parisian picnic.

You won’t find any grass in this location but there are a couple of benches to sit on. Better still lean against the stone wall and watch the barge traffic bustling up and down the Seine. Look over your shoulder to see the Pantheon in the distance, and Notre Dame Cathedral is also in view.

If you would like to be closer to the water, find one of the stairways leading down to the Seine and sit at the very point of Ile Saint-Louis on the stone pier. It’s a quiet and lovely location, one of my favorites in Paris. Leave room for an ice cream from the famous Berthillon shop nearby.

Location: Quai de Bourbon in the 4th Arrondissement.

[If you want a similar experience but with grass, head to Square du Vert Galant at the tip of the Ile de la Cité, next to the Pont Neuf in the 1st arrondissement.]

Square du Temple – Elie Weisel

If you find yourself exploring in le Marais, another fantastic location for the perfect Parisian picnic is Square du Temple- Elie Weisel. This leafy green park is full of benches, a lovely pond with ducks, and Parisians on their lunch break from work.

Square du Temple is a short walk from Marché des Enfants Rouges where you can order Moroccan couscous, Italian fare, or a famous delectable sandwich from Alain Miam Miam’s stall (just look for the long line). There are plenty of shops along Rue de Bretagne to buy picnic supplies as well. Position yourself amongst the lovely flowerbeds or by the pond and soak up some moments of tranquil Paris.

Location: 64 rue de Bretagne in the 3rd Arrondissement.

[Andi's note: We stayed in an Airbnb right across the street from this park and walked through it every day for 2 weeks. I can attest it is a great spot!]

Buttes Chaumont

Parc des Buttes Chaumont, one of the largest green spaces in Paris, is a favorite with locals thus making it a great choice for a Parisian picnic. Before settling on a grassy hillside for your picnic, wander a little and be sure to take in the magnificent views over Paris, particularly towards Montmartre.

Did you find the suspension bridge, the 50-meter cliff topped with the Temple de la Sybille, and the hidden waterfall? From Thursdays to Sundays, augment your picnic with tapas, pizzas, or oysters (now there’s a French picnic for you!) at Rosa Bonheur, a bar situated in a little house at the northern end of the park. You’re sure to be surrounded by locals.

Location: 1-7 rue Botzaris in the 19th Arrondissement.

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Place des Vosges

Thanks to Henry IV this gorgeous square was finished in 1605 and today remains one of Paris’s most beautiful. The fountains in each corner, the ancient chestnut trees, and the stunning architecture of the surrounding red-brick buildings make this the perfect place for a Parisian picnic.

You will be in good company as this is a favorite place for Parisians to gather. Find your spot on the grass amongst families and sunbathers and spread out that red-checkered tablecloth. Ah! This is the life!

Location: in the 4th Arrondissement.

Le Parc de la Villette

Le Parc de la Villette is perfect for a Parisian picnic paired with an outing. There are plenty of grassy areas at Parc de la Villette as this is the largest park in Paris with 55 hectares. Built on the site of the former slaughterhouses, this large park, and the cultural area has the Music Museum and the City of Science and Industry museum, the largest science museum in Europe.

There is plenty of walking and cycling to do along the Ourcq Canal here. Don’t miss the open-air cinema in the summer or the chance or pilot your own little boat around the Bassin de la Villette. Allow plenty of time for exploring on this Parisian picnic.

Location: 211 Avenue Jean Jaures in the 19th Arrondissement.

Author bio: Alison Browne's website Dreamer at Heart tells tales of her five years of mostly solo nomadic travel in various parts of the world. She is currently living her dream in Paris where she landed just before the confinement began.

Merci Alison for the brilliant post on Paris picnics! Given our love for picnics in the Misadventures family, it is a subject that I have wanted to write about for quite a while!

There are hundreds of parks and gardens in Paris so you have plenty of options for your Paris picnic in one of them as well! A few more favorite spots amongst Parisians are:

• The classic picnic in front of the Eiffel Tower on the Champ de Mars
• Bois de Boulogne in the 16th arrondissement
• Have a picnic in the sand in the summer at Paris Plage along the Seine
• The Jardin des Plantes is very popular and even has picnic tables!

And if we can't get to Paris to picnic you can bring the Paris picnic to you with one of my favorite books:

Picnic at Home: Paris Picnic Club

A weekly picnic with friends that turned into a pop-up restaurant, that turned into a blog, that turned into a beautifully illustrated book chronicling the journey and recipes of Shaheen Peerbhai and Jennie Levitt, the Paris Picnic Club is one of my favorites! Mr. Misadventures and I absolutely love to picnic and do it wherever we are in the world!

A great spot to get picnic supplies is at a [farmers] market, here are some tips for etiquette to ensure the best experience!

Illustration commissioned from Linden Eller.

How about you? Have you ever picnicked in Paris? Have you tried out any of these 9 spots? How about another? Do share! Do you love picnics in general? What's your go-to picnic meal? Do tell!

AUTHOR BIO

Andi Fisher

I am married to a French man, lived in France for 3 years, and have been to Paris more than 50 times. I am always a tourist so the information, tip, and tricks I share are created to help you!

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BUT, you can do it! It is an inexpensive and effective way to get around Paris.

The extensive metro system network and underground railway system can leave you overwhelmed if you’re not well-equipped. I’ve compiled all my experiences into this guide for using the metro in Paris in the hopes that your experience is as hassle-free as possible.

How to use the Paris Métro?

The metro has been providing an efficient, affordable, and environmentally friendly way to get around Paris for a very long time and it remains a vital part of daily life in this city. If you're planning a trip to Paris, learning how to use the Métro is a necessity. It's actually quite simple and straightforward once you get the hang of it.

Learning the Metro system

When traveling in Paris, chances are you’re not too far away from a metro station. It’s a good idea to learn how the Paris subway works, as it is the fastest way to cross the city. The metros run from around 05:30 am until about 01:15 am (and until 2 am on Fridays and Saturdays). The trains are quite frequent, and even more during the rush hours, which range from 08:30-09:30 am and 05:30-07:30 pm.

You simply have to look up to see when the next train is!

The Paris Métro doesn’t run through the night (they need to be cleaned at some point!) If you need to travel, there are night buses from the major RER stations in Paris (Châtelet, Gare de l’Est, Gare de Lyon, Gare Saint-Lazare, and Montparnasse).

The transport system divides Paris and its suburbs into different zones. Paris is zone 1, and the suburbs range from zone 2-4. A few metro lines run in zone 2 and 3, but almost all of them are stationed in zone 1.

In the city center, the underground system also caters to the RER lines, so be careful. The Paris metro lines are marked with a capital “M”. While the price of the metro ticket stays the same, the prices differ once you use the RER to travel in zones 2-4. If your originating station and the destination RER station are both located in zone 1, the ticket rate is the same as the metro ticket rate.

The metro lines are labeled by a number and color, but it is more common to use the number when referring to a line.

We used to walk around with our pocket-sized maps of the metro lines. We would peer at it trying to find the station and then follow our fingers to figure out the 2 termini, but nowadays we use an app! It figures out everything for us without hurting our brains!

NOTE: Although this app CAN be used offline, using apps outside the US require data on your cell phone. Plan accordingly with your cell phone provider. If you own your phone, then think about buying a sim card for Europe (we buy ours from Amazon) to use while you are in Paris.

The Paris Métro map is available within all metros and on the stations. There is a PDF version of the Paris metro map is also available on the metro website.

What is important is to know the 2 termini (endpoints) of the line. Especially when you need to do a transfer. All the signs indicating which direction of the line you are trying to find will be by their terminus.

For example: You are visiting the Tuileries Garden and decide you want to get that perfect Insta-worthy shot of the Eiffel Tower framed by the metro window on the way to Bir Hakeim bridge.

Metro Tuileries (Line 1) —> Metro Bir-Hakeim (Line 6)

1. You look at your app (the app has geo location in case you aren't sure where the closest station is) or look at a map and find yourself near the Tuileries metro stop on Line 1.
2. Verify what are the termini for the line. For Line 1 they are La Défense and Château de Vincennes.
3. You next locate the stop you want to go to, in this case, Bir Hakeim on Line 6.
4. Next, you need to find where Line 1 and Line 6 intersect and find/ensure there is an “open” circle where you can transfer.
5. Verify what are the termini for the line you are transferring to. For Line 6 they are Charles de Gaulle – Étoile and Nation.
6. Find the terminus for Line 6 in the direction of Bir Hakeim, in this case, the direction is Nation.
7. Get on Line 1 at the Tuileries metro stop in the direction of the terminus that intersects with Line 6. In this case, the direction is La Défense.
8. Get off at your transfer station, in this case, it is Charles de Gaulle – Étoile (which also happens to be the terminus).
9. Get on Line 6 direction Nation until you reach the Bir Hakeim station.

Et Voilà! You got the shot!

An app will do all this calculating for you, but it is best to practice using a map as well!

Some stations have a neighborhood map showing the different exits (sortie). Once you know what exit you need follow the numbered sortie sides to ensure you exit the metro station in the area you want.

Inside the trains themselves (over the door), there is also a sign to check out all the stops on that line.

The stations are marked with two kinds of circles- the open circles are for stations where you can transfer to another line while the closed circle has no corresponding lines (therefore, no transfers).

While the metro is easy and efficient, the stations are filled with long hallways and lots of stairs. Most of the metro stations have either an escalator or an elevator (which are often not working) but there are quite a few that only have the traditional stairs.

So if you have a lot of luggage and your metro station is not popular or has no transfers, chances are you’ll have to carry your bags up and down the stairs.

Purchasing tickets for the Paris Métro

There are a few types of tickets available, so it’s crucial to know where you’re going as a tourist. The most common type is the single-use ticket. As the name suggests, the ticket can be used for one journey. It is called the “t+” ticket and allows you to use the métro, the bus, the tram, the Montmartre funicular, and the RER within Paris.

It is a cardboard ticket, each costing €1.90. The tickets can be bought at the metro, RER, and tram stations. Bus stops don’t sell tickets, but you can buy one from the bus driver. It costs €2 and cannot be used for any transfers. 

A ticket is valid for a single journey or 90 mins, from the originating station to the destination station, including all the transfers, but only within the Paris region. Although there is one snag.

One t+ ticket can be used within 90 mins for a journey on the bus and/or the tram (surface transport), and another ticket for the metro and/or the RER (underground transport). So if your journey includes a metro and a bus, you need two t+ tickets, even if it is under 90 mins, but if you use 2 metros without getting out of the station, you only need one ticket.

To save time and money, you can buy a booklet (carnet) of 10 tickets with a discount, for the price of €16.90. The tickets have a metallic strip that is read by the turnstiles when you validate them, so it is essential to keep them away from electronics as they can be rendered useless.

The IDF Mobilités is planning to disband the carnet from September 2022 to reduce pollution and wastage of tickets due to demagnetization.

The Paris Métro also has a variety of cards that can be used to store multiple tickets. You can buy a Navigo Week Pass (from Monday to Sunday). The prices differ for different zones. Most of the Navigo passes can be used to travel to the CDG and Mitry Claye Airports but the trip to Orlyval is not included.

There is “Navigo Easy”, which costs €2 and can be topped with multiple single-journey and day tickets. With this, you can also buy your tickets digitally. It is non-nominative, which means it can be transferred to another person after you’ve finished using it.

The second one is the Navigo Découverte Pass which can hold two Navigo Day, Week, and Month passes. It has the user’s name and photo, therefore it cannot be transferred. 

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Safety tips and Do’s and Don’ts on the Paris Métro

Now that you’re a little more prepared for the Parisien metro system, it’s time to take a look at some of the safety tips while traveling. I’ve been a frequent traveler and I can honestly say that I’ve seen it all. What seems like a normal day on the Parisien metro might come as a surprise to you, so it’s essential to learn the metro etiquette before entering them.

Here are some of the things I’ve noted to help you ride the metro like a local.

Do

• During the pandemic, it is obligatory to use face-masks at all times on the trains as well as on the platforms. As of May 16, 2022 masks were no longer required (although I would advise you to wear one). This requirement could change back if the situation worsens, so you should be aware.
• Download the transit app to figure out the best ways to get around and to get updates on delays and disturbances. It also gives you access to the Paris metro map which can save you the hassle of searching for one at a station.
• Let the passengers get off the train before you get on. Once you’ve climbed on board, move to the center of the metro and don’t linger around the entrance. Almost always, you will have someone standing behind you whose way you’re blocking.
• Be aware of your surroundings. Most of the trains are equipped with speakers announcing the next station but some of them aren’t and you need to keep an eye out for your stop. On some trains, there is a light that indicates what station you are at. At some stations, you can’t just climb the stairs and cross the platform to get to the other side. You have to exit the station and re-enter (which means a new ticket!).
• Always look out for your belongings while sitting, standing, and walking on the platforms and while on the trains. It is quite common for pickpockets to steal at the ticket turnstiles, on the platform and when you’re distracted.
• Some seats are reserved for the elderly and the handicapped. Ensure you vacate those seats when necessary.
• Learn how to enter and exit the trains. Some older models have a metal handle to open and close the doors. Some have a push button, and most of the newer ones open automatically.
• Try to blend in with the locals by looking disinterested or by being engrossed in a book. This prevents you from getting into an unwanted conversation.

Don't

• Don't throw away your ticket before your destination. The RATP does spot checks on tickets in various stations and if you are caught without a ticket you will get a fine.
• Don’t use the seats near the doors when the metro is overflowing with travelers. Fold the seats and lean against them.  
• Don’t force the automatic doors to open or close. It can not only injure you but also delay the trains and disrupt schedules.
• Don’t underestimate the speed of the trains. Hold on to something and stand. There can be sudden brakes or steep curves.
• Don’t hold on to the red lever above the doors. That’s for emergency use only, and you will be fined for improper use.
• Some trains have safety announcements about pickpockets. Do not check for your wallets as this might alert the thief and give them a map for your treasures.
• Avoid taking your phone out on the train or the platform but if you do, make sure you’re holding it tightly from all the corners as someone can easily pluck it out of your hands and run away just as the doors are closing. (I personally use this hand wrist strap while traveling.)
• Don’t make eye contact with people asking for money unless you plan on giving them some. If you make eye contact, you’re opening yourself to all kinds of crazies (and sometimes not so crazies but very rarely does that happen!).
• Some stations can get a little sketchy when the night falls. Either avoid them altogether or travel in groups. Avoid: Pigalle (on lines 2 and 12), Barbes Rouchechouart (on lines 2 and 4), Chateau Rouge (on line 4), Stalingrad (on lines 2, 5 and 7), and Colonel Fabian (on line 2).

Travel Tips for the Paris Metro

Are you ready for some additional tips for traveling on the metro in Paris? I've got them!

• Just like any other public transport, the metro in Paris can malfunction. Be ready for unexpected delays or breakdowns, and have a backup plan ready.
• The French love to protest. If you hear about a transport strike or protest, keep in mind that it will affect the metros either through delays or frequency.
• Make sure you’re wearing layers. The metro can get crowded and hot and sweaty, and it is always better to peel off a layer than to stew in the trapped air. 
• Most of the tourist spots are located on lines 1 and 6, like the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre Museum, the Tuileries Garden, Montparnasse, and Arc de Triomphe.
• The Châtelet station is massive and confusing! The station is now divided into 2 sectors. There is Sector Rivoli and Sector Seine. Each is marked by colored tiles. Sector Rivoli is brown with a u-shape that represents the lines of buildings on rue de Rivoli. In Sector Seine the tiles are blue with waves that represent the Seine river.

Metro to the Airports, Disneyland and Versailles

The metro doesn’t travel to the airports. RER B, in the north, goes to CDG and Mitry Claye, whereas in the south, it goes to Antony from where you need to take the Orlyval shuttle to the Orly airport. The RER ticket to any of these airports is separate from the metro t+ ticket and does not include Orlyval. When you get off at Antony, you have to buy a separate ticket for the Orlyval shuttle.

The metro, for the most part, doesn’t go outside the Paris city limits. Versailles, or Chateau de Versailles, is in zone 3 and can be accessed by RER C going south. Disneyland Paris is in zone 5 and can be reached by RER A going to the east.

Hopefully, this guide has provided you the incentive to hop on that metro train! With preparation and tools, you can conquer the city of light and visit every corner!

Bon voyage!

How about you? Do you have other Paris metro tips to share? Do you have a Paris metro story? Do tell!

AUTHOR BIO

Andi Fisher

I am married to a French man, lived in France for 3 years, and have been to Paris more than 50 times. I am always a tourist so the information, tip, and tricks I share are created to help you!

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The post Paris Metro Guide appeared first on Misadventures with Andi.

I don't know about you, but I love train stations! They are filled with anticipation, farewells, and a promise of adventure. (I love to people-watch at train stations!) Paris has picturesque streets and boulevards but its train stations are a sight to see as well.

Quick Summary: Destinations by Station

• Gare St. Lazare: Caen, Cherbourg, Le Havre, Rouen
• Gare du Nord: Northeast France, Lille, Valenciennes, Calais. Also London, Brussels, and Amsterdam (Thalys).
• Gare de l'Est: Nancy, Metz, Reims, Strasbourg. And also Germany and Luxembourg.
• Gare de Lyon: Besançon, Clermont-Ferrand, Dijon, Lyon, Marseille, Montpellier, Mulhouse, Nice, Nimes, and Perpignan. And also Italy Genevaand Zurich in Switzerland and the east of Spain.
• Gare d'Austerlitz: Biarritz, Bordeaux, Limoges, Poitiers, Toulouse, and Tours. Also western Spain.
• Gare Montparnasse: All western TGVs, Brittany, Brest, Nantes and Rennes.

What are the train stations in Paris?

Paris has wonderful public transport, from trains and trams to buses and shuttles. Being the French capital, Paris is connected to several international hubs not only by flights but also by les grandes lignes or the trains. The city strategically built numerous train stations that now act as entry points for destinations from all directions.

Paris has 7 major train stations that connect it to cities across France and Europe. Each station, unique with its architecture, contributes to the love affair that travelers across the globe have with Paris. The stations act as a doorway to the city, and as such, were built with grandiose in mind to impress the arriving passengers.

Almost all the train stations were built in the 19th century (except one). The first station to be constructed was Gare Saint-Lazare way back in 1837, soon followed by Gare du Nord, Gare de l’Est, and Gare de Lyon. Gare de Bercy is the youngest of them all, being built in 1977.

Made up of exceptional architecture, neoclassical facades, and statues made by famous artists, the train stations were built with the city’s layout in mind and now serve as landmarks for both residents and tourists.

While the facade and some of the construction remind one of bygone eras, the stations themselves have adapted with time and undergone renovations to cater to the high-speed trains and the growing population. Now as lively urban centers, they include boutiques, cafes, and shopping spaces with ever-increasing traffic.

Gare Saint-Lazare

Gare Saint-Lazare was the first train station built in Paris when the trains were just being introduced. Initially, it was a simple wooden structure which was later expanded to be the terminus it is today.

Situated in the heart of Paris, the station is close to Boulevard Haussmann’s department stores, Place Madeline, and the Paris Opera, making it one of the busiest stations in Paris. The station has 3 levels (metro level, street level, and the platform level), each with restaurants and shops catering to simple treats and leisure shopping sprees.

The trains from Gare Saint-Lazare head to the northwest, and the Normandy region. The station can be reached by metro lines 3, 12, 13, and 14.

Fun Fact: The entrance of the station has its unique travel-inspired art showing a stack of clocks and a pile of bronze suitcases, both created by Arman in 1985. The stack of clocks named “L’heure de tous” (The Time of All) symbolizes the long waiting times that are an integral part of all journeys. Each clock has a different time indicating the time of each person, the time of everyone.

The second art piece, “Consigne à vie”, a pile of suitcases made in bronze, symbolizes the most common travel object.

Saint-Lazare has also been featured in Monet and Manet’s artwork. Musee d’Orsay held an exhibition in 1998 named “Manet, Monet and Gare Saint-Lazare”.

Address: 13, Rue d’Amsterdam, 8th Arr. Metro station: Saint-Lazare on Lines 3, 12, 13, and 14.

Gare du Nord

Europe’s leading railway station and a stone’s throw away from Gare de l’Est, Gare du Nord is the world’s 3rd largest railway station when it comes to traffic. Situated in the heart of the 10th Arrondissement, the original Gare du Nord, created in 1846, was demolished in 1860 due to its smaller size, and a newer one was inaugurated in 1864 and today welcomes more than 220 million visitors a year.

Every decade of the 20th century brought a new renovation and uplift to the station but the neoclassical facade with 23 female statues, depicting various cities such as Paris, Berlin, Frankfurt, London, Amsterdam, Warsaw, Brussels, and Vienna, is a sight to behold even today.

The station has 4 main parts – the Eurostar terminal whisking passengers off to global destinations; the Quai Transversal with its Parisian and international shopping amenities; and levels -1 and -2 filled with passengers traveling in the metro lines and the RERs.

Gare du Nord aims to triple in size to welcome the thousands of visitors for the Paris Olympics of 2024 (should they go according to plan), but the city, historians, and architects have wildly criticized the plan of transforming the gare into an urban shopping space.

Gare du Nord serves the northern part of France, and also international European cities such as Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, the Netherlands (via Thalys), and London (via Eurostar). Gare du Nord can be reached by metro lines 2, 4, and 5, and RER B and D.

Fun Fact: Gare du Nord was featured in films like Amelie, The Bourne Identity, and Mr. Bean’s Holiday.

Address: 18, Rue Dunkerque, 10th Arr. Metro station: Gare du Nord on Lines 4 and 5.

Gare de l’Est

Gare de l’Est was inaugurated in 1849 by the Paris-Strasbourg Railway Company and was originally built to service passengers traveling to and from Strasbourg. In 1854, it started train lines to the Alsace region, and from 1883, the original Express d’Orient (Orient Express) traveled all the way to Istanbul.

Gare de l’Est has beautiful and elegant architecture, sculptures representing the Seine and the Rhine, along with allegorical statues of the city of Strasbourg and the city of Verdun. With its half-rose windows and a clock surrounded by sculptures, the station was a backdrop for many a film, including Le Fabuleux Destin d’Amélie Poulain.

Under the Eiffel rose window on the upper floors of the station, you can find one of the most secret Parisian rooftop bars – Le Perchoir de l’Est. With carefully sourced cocktail bites surrounded by a terrace of flowered arches, Le Perchoir de l’Est is a pop-up bar that is open from June to October.

Trains from Gare de l’Est serve the east of France as well as some international regions of Germany, Luxembourg, Switzerland, Austria, Italy, Istanbul, Poland, and even Moscow.

Did you know: The Gare de l’Est has connections with World War I and II. It saw the mobilization of the French troops during the First World War and a series of bunkers under a platform used as bomb shelters during the Second World War.

The bunkers are intact even today but inaccessible to the public. The main hall even has a mural painting, “Le Depart des poilus, aout 1914”, illustrating the departure of the soldiers. (Read more about it here.)

Address: Place du Novembre 1918, 10th Arr. Metro station: Gare de l'Est on Lines 4, 5, and 7.

Gare de Lyon

Gare de Lyon was originally built in 1847 but was completely renovated for the World Exposition of 1900. The station was designed in Belle Epoque style with allegorical statues and a high clock tower modeled after Big Ben in London. Initially, it carried passengers to Lyon and Marseilles.

Gare de Lyon has 3 large halls – Hall 1 is the historical center with the Le Train Bleu restaurant and a forecourt that is filled with pop-up stores and terraces in the summer. Hall 2 is more modern and welcomes passengers with a wide range of restaurants. Hall 3 is underground and gives access to the OuiGo trains, the metro lines, and the RER.

Trains from Gare de Lyon travel to central-east and south-east of France, along with southern Germany, Switzerland, Spain, Italy, and Monaco. Gare de Lyon can be reached by metro lines 1 and 14, as well as RER A and D.

Fun Fact: Hall 1 of Gare de Lyon is home to one of the most celebrated restaurants in Paris, Le Train Bleu. It was built along with the station to create an unmissable gourmet experience in a luxurious setting for travelers. Initially, it was a station buffet that attracted artists and people from high society but was renamed ‘Le Train Bleu’ in 1963 as a tribute to the Paris Vintimille line that served the Mediterranean coast and the French Riviera.

One of my favorite spots is Le Train Bleu inside the Gare de Lyon train station. A gorgeous bar and restaurant, it is decorated with luxurious gold ceilings and chandeliers. The restaurant has been open since 1901 and is renowned for being the choice of celebrities and the upper class for dining and scenery in the World War II era.

Some of its halls were listed as historical monuments in 1972. The restaurant has also been a backdrop for films such as Nikita and Place Vendôme. The restaurant remains unchanged and has beautiful Belle Epoque decor of chandeliers, paintings, gilt floor, and paneling.

Address: Place Louis Armand, 12th Arr. Metro station: Gare de Lyon on Lines 1 and 14.

Gare d’Austerlitz

Located right across the Jardin des Plantes, Gare d’Austerlitz was opened in 1840. Initially, it connected Paris with Bordeaux, Limoges and Toulouse, and Barcelona. The station was listed as a French historical monument in 1997.

The station was originally called Gare d'Orléans but was later renamed Gare d’Austerlitz after France’s victory in the most important Napoleonic Wars, the Battle of Austerlitz in 1905 (the Arc de Triomphe also celebrates this battle). The station suffered a series of tragedies, from the metro line 5 piercing through the great hall of Austerlitz in 1906 to the flooding of the Seine in 1910.

Gare d’Austerlitz serves the central and southern regions of France such as Lyon, Grenoble, Dijon, Neims, Orleans and Toulan. The station can be reached by metro lines 5 and 10.

Did you know: During World War II, Gare d’Austerlitz was the terminus used to evacuate children to the countryside, while at the same time, it was also the terminus to carry thousands of Jews to internment camps.

Address: 85, Quai d’Austerlitz, 13th Arr. Metro station: Gare d’Austerlitz on Lines 5 and 10.

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Gare Montparnasse

Originally opened in 1840 as Gare de l’Ouest, it was rebuilt and renamed in 1848 and 1852 and rebuilt again to become the modern Gare Montparnasse in the 20th century (during the same time as the Montparnasse Tower). It is located at the crossroads of the 6th, 7th, 14th, and 15th arrondissements.

The station was well-known for the accident that occurred in October 1895 when the Granville-Paris express crashed through the station and plummeted to the sidewalk below.

The gare today is divided into 3 sections – Maine (which contains the Paris metros), Pasteur, and Vaugirard. The Maine terminus was built under the art deco influence but was torn down in 1960 to make way for the glass structure that we see today.

The station also has a rooftop garden. Built in 1994, the Jardin Atlantique is a public park and a green space covering the tracks and the platforms of Gare Montparnasse.

Trains from Gare Montparnasse travel to the west and south-west of France, from Brittany and Tours to Acquitane and Pyrenees, and even northern Spain. The station can be reached by metro lines 4, 6, 12, and 13.

Did you know: Gare Montparnasse has a connection with World War II. In 1944, the German commander, General Von Cholitz, was captured by General Philippe Leclerc, who used the station as his military base. The capture of 14th August 1944 led to the Liberation of Paris.

Address: 17, Boulevard de Vaugirard, 15th Arr. Metro station: Gare Montparnasse on Lines 4, 6, 12, and 13.

Gare de Bercy

Built primarily as a motorail terminal in 1977, the Gare de Bercy is without a doubt the ugliest modern station in Paris. Apart from receiving a few trains, the main role of Gare de Bercy is to transport cars of passengers to the south of France. Travelers can drop their car at the station, choose a destination and have it transported there while they sit back and relax on a train from Gare de Lyon.

Trains from Gare de Bercy travel to Dijon, Lyon, Auxerre, and Clermont-Ferrand. The station also has buses and coaches that travel internationally to major European destinations such as Germany, Belgium, the Netherlands, Italy, Switzerland, and the UK.

Address: 48 bis, Boulevard de Bercy, 12th Arr. Metro station: Bercy on Lines 14 or 6.

Bonus: Gare d’Orsay

The Gare d’Orsay was built around the same time as Gare de Lyon but due to its smaller platforms, it was closed down in 1939, and later converted into the wonderful Musee d’Orsay that we know and love today.

Address: 1 Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, 7th Arr.

A Few Train Tips

• The train operator in France is SNCF (Société Nationale des Chemins de Fer).
• To check train schedule, and fares and to buy your tickets you can use the SNCF site or Rail Europe.
• Most train tickets in France (and much of Europe) are now electronic. Download the SNCF mobile app so you can have your tickets sent directly to your phone. NOTE: Using apps outside the US requires data on your cell phone. Plan accordingly with your cell phone provider. If you own your phone, then think about buying a sim card for Europe (we buy ours from Amazon) to use while you are in Paris.
• You can also do Print-At-Home Tickets which you print off and show to the conductor on the train when he checks tickets. This is only convenient if you have access to a printer.
• You can also pick up your tickets at the station. You'll need to use your credit card or a booking confirmation number. You’re required to use the SAME credit card used to purchase the tickets to collect them up at the station.
• You have to have a reservation in advance for a TGV trip. You do NOT have to have a reservation in advance for TER (Trains Express Régionaux) trains.
• There are no baggage fees or weight limits on trains. Just bring your bags with you onto the train and put them on the racks at the end of each car, or if they are small enough, above your head.
• Arrive early to find out which platform the train goes from.
• Do not look for your destination on the departures list panel. The trains are listed by number and where they terminate. Look for your train number to ensure you get to the right train.
• There are a fair amount of strikes. Check to see if your plans are disrupted by visiting the SNCF site.

All aboard! You now know about all the train stations in Paris. Even if you aren't taking a train out of Paris, consider dropping by to look at the architecture, have a meal, or simply people-watch!

How about you? Have you been to any of the Parisian train stations? Do share!

AUTHOR BIO

Andi Fisher

I am married to a French man, lived in France for 3 years, and have been to Paris more than 50 times. I am always a tourist so the information, tip, and tricks I share are created to help you!

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The post Paris Train Stations appeared first on Misadventures with Andi.

When you visited Paris for the first time, you probably toured the must-see attractions. It might be cliché, but have you ever been to Paris if you haven’t seen the Louvre, Orsay, taken pictures in front of the Eiffel tower, and eaten your weight in croissants and cheese washed down by tiny espressos and lots of red wine?

That said, once you have checked all those boxes, your budding relationship with Paris is not necessarily over.

Maybe your first trip made you fall in love with Paris as I did. Maybe you got lucky and scored a cheap flight. Maybe it is a convenient stop before heading to another European destination, or you have family or friends to visit in the area. No matter what reason you may have to go back to Paris, you will always find something new.

In fact, like a fine French wine, Paris is even better appreciated as time goes on. With the touristy sites behind you, now it's time to explore the city “the right way”. Depending on your tastes, the things you enjoyed the first time around, and how you prefer to travel, you will probably like Paris more and more as you customize your little escapes.

Paris is always changing. The atmosphere changes dramatically from one season to the next. If the hordes of tourists and sweltering heat of the summer months were not your cup of tea, try the shoulder seasons of spring and fall (less touristy) or the magical time of the holiday.

You will have a very different experience on a romantic trip to Paris with your partner or a fun getaway with your best friends. Besides, Paris has so many neighborhoods to explore with drastically different identities, you will feel like you are in a completely different city depending on which arrondissement you stay in.

So now that you have checked the Eiffel Tower off your bucket list and French quirks and customs are not so intimidating, what are the best things to do the second (or third, or fourth…) time you visit Paris?

If you liked the Louvre…

Go back to the Louvre.

The Louvre is the most visited, as well as one of the largest, museums in the world. If your first visit left you hungry for more, don’t hesitate to renew your acquaintance with this famous landmark and its numerous treasures. The Louvre covers nearly 18 acres, with over 400 rooms and 38,000 works of art on display (not including temporary exhibitions).

Once you have paid your respect to Mona Lisa and her famous friends, you can get lost for hours, if not days among the labyrinthine corridors to admire some lesser-known masterpieces. You can also opt for a treasure hunt through the Louvre for a different perspective!

The good news is that despite the long lines at the entrance (try the underground entrance through the Carrousel du Louvre if the one at the Pyramides is too disheartening), crowds inside – except around Mona Lisa and consorts – feel relatively small given the monstrous size of the building. Get your ticket ahead of time!

Explore a smaller museum.

Paris is home to over 100 museums – enough to keep you busy even if it’s raining during your stay. Some of them display collections similar (although significantly smaller) than those in the Louvre. If you enjoyed the antiques and medieval artifacts, head to the Musée de Cluny.

Lovers of Asian art will be transported by the Musée Guimet, while the Musée Jacquemart-André and Cognacq-Jay display art collections from the seventeenth to the nineteenth century exhibited in the (stunning) private homes of the original collectors. 

If you loved Orsay…

Explore more of Monet’s artwork

There is no better place to admire some of Monet’s better-known masterpieces than the Orangerie, nestled in the Tuileries gardens. (Reserve your ticket ahead of time.) Built specially to shelter the massive water lily paintings, it is a serene haven in the heart of it all.

A bit further off the beaten path, the Musée Marmottan is dedicated to the life of the father of French Impressionism.

Monet is not alone since there is also a beautiful permanent collection including paintings by Delacroix, Manet, Degas, Sisley, Pissarro, Gauguin, and Rodin among many others. Finally, you may also want to include a day trip to Giverny, the celebrated painter’s last home and inspiration.

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Walk in the footsteps of other masters of the nineteenth century

The nineteenth century, which constitutes the piece de resistance of the art exhibited in Orsay is, arguably, one of the Golden Ages of the City of Light. Some other museums around Paris celebrate the artwork of other artists, besides Monet, included in their permanent exhibitions.

For example, you can walk among some of the most recognizable sculptures of the century at the Musée Rodin. (Reserve your ticket ahead of time.) If you have a taste for the grandeur of Delacroix, you can see more of his artwork in the Delacroix Museum.

Other great figures of the time made their home in the “Nouvelle-Athene” in the ninth district. The Musée de la Vie Romantique, nestled in a charming hotel particulier with a shaded yard, retraces the life of some of the main characters like George Sand and Chopin.

Wander through Paris’ passages

Orsay was once one of Paris’ main train stations and a center of social life in the nineteenth century. I have a particular fondness for the light and airy architecture of the building, which may have changed in function but still retains its dreamy aesthetic. If you fell under its spell as I did, you should check out Paris’ covered passages.

Like Orsay, many of them feel like a throwback to a more glamorous time. They have the same glass domes that flood the area below with light and many of them have charming cafes and boutiques that belong in a period novel.

If you loved Notre-Dame…

Visit the Sainte-Chapelle

Sadly, it will be some time before we can visit Notre Dame again. Although there is good hope that this jewel will be restored to its full glory, it won’t be for some years (decades?). In the meantime, you can enjoy the Sainte-Chapelle and its (rightfully celebrated) stained glass windows.

It is located near Notre Dame on the Ile de la Cité and within the walls of the Palais de Justice. Reserve your ticket ahead of time.

Visit the Basilica Saint-Denis

Located off the beaten path, the Basilica Saint-Denis in the north of Paris is the final resting place of the Kings and Queens of France. Its exterior may not be as impressive as Notre Dame, with its elaborate gargoyles and sculptures, but it more than makes up for it inside.

It is considered the birthplace of Gothic architecture and displays a wealth of stained glass and funerary sculptures.

Visit Saint Eustache Parish

Saint Eustache is a sight to behold with its spider legs-like arc boutants. Deadset in the middle of Paris in the bustling Halles district is also one of the centers of cultural and musical life in Paris. If you miss the organ concerts magnified by the acoustic of Notre Dame, Saint Eustache hosts regular performances by symphony orchestras and choral ensembles such as Chœurs de Radio France and the Orchestre National de France.

It is also home to significant music and art festivals year-round, including the Festival d’Automne à Paris (in the fall) and Paris Quartier d’Été (in summer).

If you loved the Tuileries…

Head to the Jardin du Luxembourg

Like the Tuileries, the Jardin du Luxembourg was designed for the enjoyment of a Medici queen (in that case, Marie, widow of Henri IV) in 1612. Like the Tuileries, Luxembourg is a Jardin à la Française, with orderly alleys, tamed parterres, and grand perspectives. A charming English garden (think a bit more fantasy and less tidy designs) was added at the south end of the garden in the nineteenth century.

If you enjoyed the abundance of statues displayed in the Tuileries, the gentile atmosphere, and lounging on green chairs by the fountain, you will feel right at home in the Luxembourg garden. Also, have you seen those pictures of Parisian children with their remote-controlled wooden boats? You can find them here!

Stroll in Parc Monceau

The Parc Monceau is the unofficial playground of the well-to-do families of the posh 8^th arrondissement, and a green oasis for the bankers and office employees who work nearby. Besides, it is an active free Wi-fi area – always good to know when you are traveling! Unlike the Tuileries, with its clean-cut trees and obsession with symmetry, Monceau is an English garden.

It was designed as a “fantasy” garden and hosts several follies that make for very Instagram-worthy shots. If you ever wanted to pose next to an Egyptian pyramid, a Chinese fort, a Dutch windmill, or Corinthian pillars, now is your chance!

Get lost in the Jardin des Plantes

The most famous botanical garden in France covers no less than 28 hectares. It includes a zoo, four museums, and several formal and informal gardens and hothouses: enough to keep you busy for an entire day! Located in the heart of the Latin Quarter, it is a great place to hang out on a spring day in this fun neighborhood.

If you loved Versailles…

Take a trip to Vaux-Le-Vicomte

When Versailles was still a hunting lodge hidden in a swamp, there was one castle that surpassed them all. In fact, Vaux-Le-Vicomte served as the inspiration for what is now known as the epitome of extravagance and luxury. It was built for Fouquet, the hugely successful Superintendent of Finances of young Louis XIV. It was conceived as a symbol of his wealth and love for the arts.

The palace was so over-the-top that the King, jealous, ended up having Fouquet imprisoned and built himself an even more impressive castle. It is easy to find where Louis XIV found his inspiration, from the gilded decorations to the French gardens designed by Le Notre. Vaux-Le-Vicomte is located about an hour away from Paris by car or accessible via train from Gare de l’Est.

Visit the Chateau de Chantilly

The stunning Château de Chantilly, located about an hour north of Paris, is relatively recent but no less impressive. The current castle was built in the nineteenth century after the original mansion was destroyed during the French Revolution, but it is lavishly decorated. Besides, it is home to the second most extensive collection of antique paintings after the Louvre.

The impressive grounds are composed of several gardens, including some formal French gardens with large mirrors of water designed by Le Notre, and a little rustic hamlet said to have inspired Marie-Antoinette for the Petit Trianon. Finally, Chantilly is also a meeting point for horse-lovers worldwide, with the Museum of the Horse and equestrian shows year-round.

Step back in time at the Chateau de Saint-Germain-en-Laye

The Chateau de Saint-Germain-en-Laye, located in the elegant Parisian suburb of the same name, houses the National Museum of Archeology. It was a witness to some of France’s most significant historical events, and the residence of many Kings and Queens of France.

Louis XIV was born and raised here, and Saint-Germain-en-Laye was the theater of some of the young Sun King’s first ambitions as a master builder. The monstrously sized building includes elements dating back to the Middle Ages and a fabulous grand terrace designed by Le Notre, which overlooks the Seine and offers vistas of Greater Paris.

Experience the majestic home of 34 Kings at Chateau de Fountainbleu

It always astonishes me that people who have visited Paris more than once have yet to visit the Chateau de Fontainebleau. Like many of its rivals it is also about an hour away from Paris, but far less crowded. This chateau is older than the Louvre by 50 years and Versailles by 500 and the unbroken line of French kings spanning eight centuries mainly used it as a hunting lodge.

Each of the 34 kings and 2 emperors added their unique additions which make this spot's mix of styles very interesting. Plus I love the beautiful peacocks that live on the grounds!

If you loved the Eiffel Tower…

Climb up the Tour Montparnasse

The Tour Montparnasse is hard to miss. The only real skyscraper in downtown Paris stands out, and not in a good way. However, it has one significant advantage. If you were swept away by the views from the top of the Eiffel tower, you will love the ones you can admire from the Skydeck of the Tour Montparnasse.

Not only do you get a fabulous view of the Eiffel Tower itself, but you don't have to deal with the eyesore of Montparnasse itself. Besides, there is also a bar-restaurant on top of the Tower that you can access for free.

Catch an exhibition at the Grand Palais

The Eiffel Tower (and Orsay, incidentally) are some of the last remnants of the Universal Exhibition of 1889. Most of the buildings were never conceived to be permanent – there were even talks of taking down the Iron Lady itself. However, some escaped, including the Grand and Petit Palais, and the nearby lavish bridge, Pont Alexandre III.

The Grand Palais, with its dwarfing glass roof, hosts rotating exhibits ranging from art displays to fashion shows during the Fashion Weeks or equestrian competitions. The Petit Palais, across the street, houses the City of Paris Museum of Fine Arts. Finally, Alexandre III is arguably one of the most beautiful bridges in Paris, with its golden statues and fabulous perspective on the Invalides.

Soar over Paris in a hot air balloon

For a fun experience and beautiful view over the City of Lights (and the Eiffel Tower itself), head to the Parc Andre Citroën in the fifteenth district. There, you will find the Ballon de Paris Generali, the biggest hot aired balloon in the world, which offers the ultimate bird's eye view of Paris.

The flight lasts about 15 minutes. Because it is dependent upon weather conditions, you cannot buy tickets in advance, so plan accordingly.

If you loved Montmartre…

Wander through Belleville

If you fell in love with the hilly village of Montmartre, with its artsy vibe and scenic views, but not so much with the hordes of tourists that inhabit its cobblestone streets, you will love Belleville. Like Montmartre, Belleville was once an independent village and has retained its strong identity. Like Montmartre, its cheap rents attracted artists, immigrants, and other denizens.

Like Montmartre, its hilly location offers sprawling views of the city below. Unlike Montmartre, the crowds have yet to discover this hidden gem. However, gentrification is on the way with a lot of trendy hotels, restaurants, and boutiques. However, Belleville (and nearby Menilmontant) is still a diamond in the rough. It has a striking street art scene, plenty of gritty bars and restaurants – including many ethnic eateries – and a great night scene.

Get lost in the Butte aux Cailles

The Buttes aux Cailles neighborhood in the thirteenth district is located off the beaten path. Sleepy and charming during the day, it comes alive at night when restaurants and bars open their doors. It is one of those places in Paris where you feel miles and miles away from the city, wandering through cobblestone streets and small houses once inhabited by blue-collar workers.

The tree-shaded squares would not be out of place in a provincial village. It is also a great spot to admire the work of street artists.

Explore the Canal St Martin neighborhood

Like Montmartre, the Canal Saint-Martin area (in the 10th arrondissement) is a hipster haven. Between the cute eco-minded boutiques, the farm-to-table eateries, and a slow-paced lifestyle punctuated by picnics along the river, it is a favorite among Parisians and visitors.

It was once a working-class neighborhood, but the warehouses have been transformed into a trendy concert and art venues. The canal, with its half-moon pedestrian bridges and tree-shaded banks, is as scenic as it comes.

Start planning your Second (or Third or…) Trip

Of course, these are only a couple of suggestions on what to do the second time in Paris! Most importantly, you will get to enjoy the City of Light at your own pace, and like the locals, master the art of flȃner (aka walk around without a set goal.) You never know what you can find in the next street!

Paris can be overwhelming, there is just so much to see, I have some bucket lists and itinerary suggestions coming your way!

Now, how about you? Have something that you would add to my list of places to visit on a second trip to Paris?  Do share!

AUTHOR BIO

Andi Fisher

I am married to a French man, lived in France for 3 years, and have been to Paris more than 50 times. I am always a tourist so the information, tip, and tricks I share are created to help you!

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The post Paris for the Second Time – Things to do in Paris After Your First Trip appeared first on Misadventures with Andi.

There is the obvious, like food and holidays. And then, there are the things you keep discovering day after day, such as a sense of privacy, what to say in which circumstances, the family customs, etc. Some of it may make you fall in love with the culture all over again. Others still don't make complete sense to me, many years later. And then, there are the things I keep discovering despite my relative familiarity with the country and its people.

I was a Francophile long before I married a Frenchman (lucky me). By now, I have had decades behind me spent loving France and French things. I even lived in France, and I have French friends and friends that live in France. That’s plenty of opportunities to experience, observe, read about, admire, laugh, or lament about French culture.

This is a collection, somewhat of a mishmash of some of the things that stand out to me. Some of them will help you understand the French culture, some of them will have you scratching your head! I will continually be adding to it, so stop by from time to time and let me know what your own experience of French culture is – the good, the bad, and the ugly!

Eating & Drinking in France

If there is a thing the French are known for – and rightfully so – it's their food. Therefore, it is not entirely surprising that it is a significant aspect of their culture, with its do's and don'ts. More than sustenance, food is an art, a way of life, and something that is taken very seriously. Get two Frenchmen or women together abroad, and I guarantee that the first thing they will talk about is food.

Here are some uniquely French food-related things you may want to know more about.

Pastis

If you travel anywhere near the South of France, you are more than likely to encounter Pastis. This tasty drink is synonymous in most French minds with the holidays, lazy afternoons spent playing Petanque with the locals, and cicadas singing in the sun. That's a bit of a stereotype, as a lot of “Northerners” (aka, pretty much anyone living above Provence) also drink it!

In 2003 there was a quirky movie that came out called Le Divorce with Kate Hudson, Naomi Watts, and Glenn Close. It is a great chic flic that gives you a peek into life in Paris. Of course, it is has a lot of stereotypes, but as someone who lived in France, I can tell you a lot of stereotypes are based on truth!

In one of the scenes, the Parisian old-timer, ex-pat Glenn Close, meets pregnant Naomi Watts and her newly-arrived-from-America sister, Kate Hudson, at a bar/brasserie. Naomi orders a red wine and Glenn orders a “Ricard” and then explains to Kate what it is and how to drink it. It's a fun movie and a fun scene.

Ricard is a brand of pastis, an anise-flavored liquor, that was developed when Absinthe became illegal. It is a very popular drink. If you order one in France who will get a glass with the liquor at the bottom and a separate glass (or bottle) of water. Depending on where you are in France, the glass with the pastis will also have ice cubes, or sometimes you will get a third smaller glass with ice (some traditionalists don't want the ice). You then add as much, or as little, water as you want depending on preference and potency.

It is yummy. There is also a non-alcoholic version that is prepared the same way. You might be familiar with Torani syrups for Italian sodas and many U.S. coffee shops still use these syrups today to flavor their coffees. These same types of syrups are used by French people to make refreshing drinks.

You can buy these syrups at any grocery store, but as with anything in life, there are better versions than what you can get in the store. They become quite artisanal in their creation.

On one road trip that my husband and I took while we were living in France, we were about two hours from our home wandering around small roads taking in whatever we could find. We stopped at an olive oil tasting stand and sampled some oils. They had a little store that sold regional products and we picked up two bottles of syrup, one was anise and one was mandarin. We packed them up with our olive oil purchase and drove home.

We put the bottles away and forgot about them for a bit. A few weeks later we pulled the mandarin out and prepared a drink. The taste was unbelievable, I had not had anything that tasted like you were drinking mandarin, it was more than just a hint, but it wasn't too sweet. So being the techie people we were, we looked up the company on the internet and found out they were a little monastery called Eyguebelle three hours away who made the syrups.

So what did we do? You guessed it. The next weekend we got in the car and drove three hours (one-way) to the Drome region and found that little monastery and bought a whole bunch more. They had about 60 flavors as well as alcoholic varieties called Eaux-de-vies as well as lotions and soaps, etc. It was quite a place, all-natural, and made by monks! We made our purchases, walked around the grounds a bit, stopped for a lunch of scrambled eggs with black truffle, and then drove three hours home with the biggest smiles on our faces.

We brought the syrups to the U.S. with us when we moved back, and I am telling you it was like liquid gold, a very precious item!

So if you ever find yourself in France, give it a try, order a Ricard and enjoy it! And if you are EVER near Drome, go to the Eyguebelle monastery!

DOMAINE EYGUEBELLE
La Méjeonne – 26230 VALAURIE
Tél. : 04 75 98 03 80
website (in French): www.eyguebelle.com

But don't be sad if you are “only” going to Paris. We found a store that carries Eyguebelle and it is in a beautiful part of Paris. The store doesn't have a name that I can find. The best directions I can give you are:

Follow the directions for Chez Julien, a very famous restaurant located at: 1 Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe (75004, 4th arrondissement)
The cobblestoned street to the left of Chez Julien is called Rue des Barres
Walk up that street leading to the Église Saint-Gervais (church)
The church has a store that carries religious and monastery products including Eyguebelle!

Diabolo Menthe or Grenadine

If you are sitting out on a terrace in France in the summer you may see people drinking bright green (menthe or mint) or bright red (grenadine – originally pomegranate, now mixed red fruit). My mother-in-law drinks that mint one because she is not big on alcohol and these drinks are made with non-alcoholic syrups. The syrup is mixed into sparkling water (usually Sprite or Perrier) lemonade, and even milk. You can also add the syrups into panachés as well!

Panaché

Before I was low carb I drank TONS of panachés! This is a light beer mixed with a carbonated lemon-lime drink or French lemonade (like Lorina). Outside of France, it is called a shandy. I still cannot resist ordering these when we visit Paris in the summer, but I don't feel guilty because of all the walking we do!

Kir Royale

The French often start a meal out at a restaurant with a cocktail. When I first started dating Mr. Misadventures he would order Kir Royales for us. This is crème de cassis (black raspberry) topped with champagne. A traditional Kir is this dark red liqueur and wine. The champagne turns version is fancy 🙂 These days I prefer my champagne just straight up, but from time to time, I will still get a Kir Royale.

L'apéro

On any given Friday afternoon in Switzerland or France, you will likely find office workers gathered around having an apéro. I think the closest relative to this on the American side would be a private happy hour. Also, as soon as they leave work, the French like to gather around for more apéro! Either at a local café or someone's home or if the weather is nice, outside. 

The drinks vary by where you are geographically, but in my experiences in Switzerland and Paris, it was usually champagne or a kir royale. Other parts go for martinis, pastis, fruit juice, or Lillet. It is served with salty appetizers like chips or nuts or salty crackers or olives and it is usually one single drink. 

When you go to a French home for dinner, the meal usually begins with an apéro as well. What should be, in theory, a simple pre-dinner drink often ends up in an afternoon feast of cheese, olives, charcuterie, crackers, etc., that can accompany hours of lively discussions. If you are invited to a French home, be aware that the impressive display of food and drinks that are waiting for you as the hosts finish putting the last touches on the meal is not even the first course! 

It is a moment for chatting and relaxing before a more formal dining experience. It is a moment of levity and camaraderie. To relax and get ready for the main event.

Café Gourmand

For anyone with a sweet tooth, a café Gourmand is probably the best way to end a meal. And if you never know what to pick from the fabulous dessert menu, it can be a Godsend. If it is on the menu, follow my advice: go for it! You really can't go wrong with it.

My husband and I are gourmands, or as we call ourselves, greedy gourmands. If there are 4 things on a menu, we want to try them all, if there are 8, the same! We love food and experiencing food throughout our travels. I think that food is one of the greatest joys in life. It does not just represent sustenance or energy but so much more: pleasure, taste, joy, laughter, sharing, etc.

So while traveling in France, my husband and I almost always partake of the café gourmand. When a regular-sized dessert seems too much of a commitment, but just an espresso won’t cut it, we get a café gourmand. It is an espresso served with a plate of miniature desserts. Normally it is 3: a small moelleux au chocolat (warm chocolate cake or brownie with warm pudding inside), crème brûlée and a clafoutis (like a little cherry pie) or macaroon. 

So you can order an extra espresso and share one between two people, or you can join the greedy gourmand club and eat it all to yourself!

Carte du Jour

Eating out is one of the major expenses of any trip – especially for a foodie like me! Therefore, I have a big appreciation for the Menu du Jour, which often offers two or three courses for a fraction of the A la carte equivalent.

The exchange rate between the dollar and the Euro plus that nasty VAT means that everything you buy while in Europe is more expensive than “back at home.” When traveling anywhere in the world eating in restaurants for all your meals can cost you quite a bit from your vacation budget.

We never eat breakfast in the hotel, unless of course it is included in the price of the room. Most hotel breakfasts are outrageously priced and the quality is usually not that good. Instead, we will go to a local bar or cafe and have their “petit dejeuner” which consists of coffee, orange juice, and either a croissant or a half of a baguette with butter and jams. Some places give both a croissant and a baguette. The price is usually around 10 Euros (I’ve seen it at 7).

For lunch, we will grab a sandwich at a bakery, or you could grab a crepe or kebab from the street. They are all filling and excellent! You can also eat at many high-end restaurants for lunch and pay much less than you would for dinner and still get a fantastic meal. If you do that, then you can switch my suggestion and have a sandwich for dinner, believe me, a meal at one of the fine establishments will fill you up and you may even skip dinner all together!

For dinner (or even for lunch) you can’t go wrong with the “carte du jour” it is the special of the day and usually costs less. Or there is the “menu du jour” which will allow you to select a starter, main course, and dessert from a set list. It is a lot cheaper than if you ordered three individual courses.

In Paris, my husband and I like to eat at brasseries, as well. They are less expensive than most restaurants and are open non-stop as opposed to some restaurants that have dinner hours that may start at 8, etc.

If you follow these guidelines you might have enough money left over to buy some of those Eiffel Tower souvenirs that are sold everywhere!

Relationships in France

Relationships between people are never easy to navigate, but it is a whole different ballgame when you throw in cultural differences. Being married to a Frenchman, with French friends (and in-laws!), is something I am very much aware of. It is not necessarily good or bad.

It is different. It takes some time to learn how to navigate those differences and how to approach various issues. Here is my take on what I have learned so far about how the French interacts with each other.

La bise

La bise. A specific kind of kiss that you see French people (as well as many other European nationalities) do in greeting (and in departure). It is the most French way to greet someone, but it can be a tricky business to navigate. Who do you kiss? Which cheek should you start on? How many times? Don't be too scared of getting it wrong, though.

The French themselves may have had a lifetime of practice, but there are still plenty of awkward moments when they meet each other for the first time, and everyone just laughs it off.

Although I lived in France in L’Ain, where la bise consisted of two kisses, I worked in Switzerland where it was customary to do three. The office was international with people coming from many countries, but at least in there, it was understood that the “home team” quantity of three presided.

However, when I went to sales and marketing meetings it was always hilarious to see the dance of the air kisses when one country had one or two more than “usual.” I tripped on this constantly.

I had an e-commerce vendor in Barcelona who I would visit several times during the year. Turns out unlike most of the rest of Spain where people kiss twice, the Barcelonians did three. When I met them for the first time and spent the afternoon with them, I parted their offices with kisses. I went in for two on the first person I exchanged kisses with, and they went for the third nearly kissing me on the mouth as I pulled away!

Paris is a two-kiss city unless the person you are interacting with sticks with their “origins” (a lot of people in Paris aren’t originally from Paris) and throws you off with their regional number. So although my mother-in-law lived in Paris for thirty years, she insists on four kisses as they do it in Poitou-Charentes!

Here is a map so you can see just how crazy it can get. It details the number of kisses (up to 5!) in the various regions of France. 

Funnily enough for an American, these kisses feel very intimate while the French feel our American-style hugs are far more so! Interesting, huh?

Romance – He loves me, he loves me not

Ahhh, love. It is the universal language, but we don’t all speak it the same way.

As part of a multicultural couple, figuring out the intricacies of love can be quite an adventure. Luckily enough the French are as intriguing on this topic as they are on everything else in their world, meaning there are many shades of gray and many levels of nuances. I am sure it is something that I will spend the rest of my life trying to master!

French children are raised to challenge, question, prod…not take things for granted or accept the status quo…

Love is a living thing, not something that is chased, captured, and placed in a box. It needs to be fed and nourished at all times lest it slips away. It must be challenging as well, which can keep you on your toes (believe me!).

A few years ago I read a new book by Debra Ollivier called, “What French Women Know.” I know. It was a total cliche to be reading that book on my Air France flight to Paris, trust me. I took the book sleeve off. Not that I was embarrassed to be reading the book, but rather to be reading the book at that precise moment.

Because of course, I try to play the sophisticated lady, striving as always to somewhat fit in while in Paris, so I can’t be caught dead overtly studying the very thing I am trying to emulate! Ssshhh, it’s my secret!

Okay, I digress.

This book is fabulous, one of the best I have read on this topic, and I have read many, many books on this topic! In her chapter on Mystery, Ms. Ollivier reminded me of something very important to the French psyche, the infinite possibilities of love. I remember receiving flowers from my husband while he was on a business trip and I was home ill. We had not been in France long, and while I wasn’t feeling homesick, I was sick and felt a little lonely.

Some of the flowers were still alive when my husband returned from his trip and I remember taking one of the last ones and playing the “he loves me, he loves me not” game. My husband looked at me perplexed. The French do the same thing, but this is how it goes in France:

Il m’aime un peu,
beaucoup,
passionnement,
à la folie,
pas du tout.

This translates to:
He loves me a little,
a lot
passionately
madly,
not at all.

Quite a difference, right? I love what Ms. Ollivier says about it:

“How unfair. While we American girls are struck in the absolutes of total love or total rejection, the French girl is already primed to think in nuances and in an infinite gamut of romance. While we lust after happy endings and closure, they’re comfortable with emotional subtleties and ambiguity. While we grow up thinking in black and white, they grow up inscrutably gray.” (page 50)

It is very difficult to learn to be comfortable with emotional subtleties and ambiguity, it is not something that comes naturally to me. I like cold hard facts. I like lists with checkboxes and closure. I admire the French for this skill.

It is why French was the language of diplomacy for centuries, the nuances and the grays. The legal treaties and agreements of countries and nations benefited from this kind of language which isn’t always the case for agreements between human beings, particularly man and wife, but alas, that’s what makes life more interesting, n’est pas?

The Flower Game

The first time my mother-in-law visited us in the U.S. I bought her a bouquet of flowers. A pretty one from our local grocery store. When I gave it to her, she gave me a strange look and I was quite taken back. Then Mr. Misadventures looked at the bouquet and whispered in my ear, “those flowers are only for funerals and cemeteries!” Mon dieu! The type of flower and the color makes a difference for French people – here is a list to help you!

NO chrysanthemums this is for funerals, cemeteries, and gravesites. (Don't make my mistake!)
My second favorite flower, carnations are not popular either. Reds especially, are “threatening.”
You can only give red roses to people you are romantically in love with. And only in odd numbers (but no 13). All-yellow bouquets mean unfaithfulness (not sure to whom you are not supposed to give it to? The girlfriend or the mistress!?)

5 à 7

If you think the French couples live happily ever after, along with their lovers and mistresses, think again. Although they don't shy away from a scandal, the repercussions are often very different from what stereotypes would lead you to believe.

Often known as the French Happy Hour (or l’apéro) this expression also has a seamier side. It’s known for the traditional hour(s) for the mistress in France. You can probably picture it: businessman leaves the office at 5:00 after a busy day and heads over to meet his amant (lover) at a discreet hotel for a drink and more…

Not a new concept for France, but still a reality? I don’t know but it can’t be far from the truth when services like Day Use (when they first launched that was definitely their target market, although now the demo is more travelers) are cropping up. Their site “lists all Parisian hotels offering luxurious rooms by the hour, at negotiated prices.”

Love hotels have been around in Asia in places like Tokyo and Seoul for quite a long time. A lot of young people live with their parents until they are married and these hotels provide a means to be intimate with another person. Of course, their hotels are used for traditional affairs as well.

The French’s attitude towards the affair is somewhat blasé because they are more open about it. There is the understanding that an amant will remain an amant and not take the place of the spouse. But I can tell you it does destroy many couples and many families despite what you see in French films.

Miscellaneous

There are too many aspects of French culture to sort in specific categories. So, here are some of my reflections on diverse subjects!

Rules of the road

Nobody is immune from road rage. Yet the French can make it even harder to resist a good meltdown with their simultaneous migrations towards the coast at vacation time! 

The French get 7 weeks of vacation and work 35 hour weeks. A vast majority of French people take either the entire month of July or the entire month of August off. That means a mass exodus of Paris, usually towards the various coasts (or sometimes mountains). They all leave at the same time going in mostly the same direction. Picture that in your head. Crazy huh?

Even my husband, being French, cannot wrap his head around it, and when we lived in France, we never went out on the roads the first and last weekend of July or August.

The start of the last weekend in July and the first weekend in August, the highways and national roads will be jammed going both directions! One thing is for sure, there is no chance of speeding!

But even if they were, the French highways and European highways, in general, are much safer than American highways, even with the higher speed limit. The speed limit is 130 kph (120 in Switzerland) which is a little over 80 mph, but that does not mean it is unsafe. Barring some Parisian street traffic habits which are probably on par with New York, here are just some of the things to note about driving on the highway:

– People do not drive in the left lane, they use the left-hand lane only to pass.
– People pass only on the right, never on the left, so you can anticipate where people are.
– People use their hazard lights to signal to cars behind them that there is a slow-up in traffic.
– Trucks are not allowed on the road on Sunday.
– People slide over a bit to let motorcyclists go by. The motorcyclists do a gesture with their leg thanking you.

Traffic deaths are down significantly in the last 5 years as well. This is due to several things. One is a huge campaign against drunk driving. Another is the addition of fixed and mobile radar cameras all throughout the country. Probably one of the most effective ways of reducing the number is that it is talked about all the time. The highway death numbers are released every quarter, like unemployment, and it is shared on the nightly news and discussed. It is top-of-mind.

Whereas you will enjoy July and August if you are visiting Paris because there are a lot fewer people, don’t plan any trips outside of Paris on the “red” weekends, as they call them in France – the first and last weekend of July and August – or trust me, you will be seeing red yourself!

Perfume

France has established itself as the capital of perfume for centuries. Therefore, it should come as no surprise that it remains a strong indicator of identity and ceremonial – and one you should partake in if you get a chance. Everyone knows the power of perfume, but the French seem to know how to use it to their advantage. A French woman will change her perfume several times a year, usually with the season, to keep her man guessing. Of course, she will still more than likely has a signature perfume for those very special occasions.

And as the world has become smaller and smaller these days, it is very easy to buy French perfume anywhere in the world. Just go into any department store, or heck even Walmart sells Guerlain and Dior online, and for $50 you can pick up a French classic.

But if you ever have the opportunity to go to Paris, you can have a very special, very unique experience of buying a French perfume that is carried in very, very few places in the world. The perfume is a line of perfumes called Serge Lutens (after the designer), and despite the fact it is sold in the U.S. (but exclusively at Barney’s), the main part of the line is only available at a very special store in the Salons de Palais Royal in Paris.

Palais Royal is an interesting and beautiful place. The Palais-Royal, originally called the Palais-Cardinal, is a palace and garden located near the Palais-Royal theater in the first arrondissement. In fact, the famous and controversial writer, Colette lived there in the apartments above the courtyard. There is a beautiful park inside the courtyard, tree-lined and gorgeous. Along the courtyard, there are several restaurants, including the famous (and expensive) Le Grand Véfour, clothing design shops, the national museum for all the theater costumes, and the Serge Lutens perfume salon.

The salon itself is a wonderful experience for the senses and the perfumes themselves are so lovely you will be hard-pressed to decide on just one to purchase.

And here is the thing – buy one.

You can buy a $50 of eau de toilette from a department store, but it is an eau de toilette so it is “watered” down, mainly with alcohol, or you can buy a perfume that is 100% perfume for $75. That perfume will be original, unforgettable, and worth every penny of the extra $25 you will pay to own it. Not only that, but you will own something that will be a wonderful souvenir every time you wear it.

I picked up a bottle called Lily, my husband got one also, as they have fragrances for both men and women. Every time I put it on, I stop a moment, close my eyes and recall the afternoon that we spent in the infrequently visited palace, and I smile.

The Serge Lutens shop is located at the Salons de Palais-Royal at 25 Rue de Valois, 75001 in Paris.

Postcard Privacy

For people who kiss that much, the French are also extremely jealous of their privacy – including when sending a mere postcard! I think this is a generational thing, something my mother-in-law does as I don't know that many people who even send postcards these days!

One December while living in France, my husband and I decided to take my mother-in-law to Rome the day after Christmas. We planned to do a quick trip to enjoy this festive city around the holiday. We had a great time touring various locations including the Vatican. The day after Christmas is St. Silvester and the Pope came out and addressed the crowd with a speech. He opened with a greeting in about a dozen languages, I was impressed. I also felt like I was seeing a celebrity, decided I was a poser as I am not a huge fan of the Catholic church, and concentrated on keeping warm!

We, of course, visited several other of the sites as we completed our 3 days. My mother-in-law picked up a few souvenirs and postcards along the way and on the last day when we arrived at the airport she began a search for envelopes and stamps. I thought she had completely lost it…I mean who buys an envelope for a POSTCARD? She was very upset because she couldn’t find any and that she was unable to send them to out. I was flabbergasted that she would not even consider sending them without an envelope. It was “no one’s business what she had to write”…while I was thinking.. “then why buy postcards?”

Turns out she wasn’t crazy. A few days later we went to visit Chamonix, a ski town in France where Mont Blanc is. We went into a souvenir shop to buy postcards and lo and behold if they didn’t come with envelopes! Throughout the next years that we were in France, I saw envelopes all the time!

Well, that's all I have for now, but that's plenty, and also the reason why people write whole books on French culture and customs. These are just a few things I picked up along the way, either by misadventure or by observation. And with more travels to France, visits from my belle-mère, and more adventures with the hubby I am sure there will be more to add!

How about you? Have you discovered French customs or traditions that surprised you, or you found interesting? Do share!

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I did a lot of international travel for work and always made it a point to study a little bit about the culture I was visiting. France and the French people operate by an ancient set of codes – I've referred to this on many occasions, and if you are interested in them, you can read any book from authors Jean-Benoit Nadeau and Julie Barlow to learn more!

But being a Francophile, I mainly wanted to do the right thing while dining in France, which is why I decided to write this little post with the things I have learned over the years in the hopes I can save you from awkward moments.

Food is an art, behaving in public as a science, and the combination of both can be a little intimidating. The French are not known for their customer service, and quite a few Americans have come home with ruffled feathers after a dining experience, which was a far cry from what they are used to.

Often, it comes down to cultural differences: in the U.S., the waiters are expected to be as present as possible to earn a good tip at the end of the meal. In France, they are here to facilitate your meal, guide you in your choices, and give you plenty of privacy to enjoy your food for as long as you want.

No artificially cheerful teenagers breathing down your neck here and chitchatting about their next exam in the name of being “personable” here! Waiters are dignified professionals who make themselves as scarce as possible and won’t hesitate to put you back in your place if you step the line, knowingly or not.

Considering some of these dining tips will help you stay in their good graces. I have also thrown in some cultural nuances here, as well.

The Entrance

Dining times are later than in the U.S. Some restaurants may have a service at seven or 7:30, but most are at 8. If you want to eat earlier, you will need to go to a brasserie, which often offers non-stop service (service continu) from lunchtime until late into the night.

As it is often the case in Europe, men are supposed to walk in first to scout for potential dangers (such as a terrifying maître d’hôtel) and open the door for the helpless maidens.

Say hello! (This is rule #1 in France) In many places in Europe, stores and restaurants are not considered public space, but an extension of your hosts' home – probably because, not that long ago, they actually were. Therefore, the same rules apply as if you were visiting someone’s house: make eye contact, greet the waiters or waitresses, and smile politely before you do anything else.

You may think that it is a cultural norm to show up late. After all, the French seem to have a pretty elastic notion of time. In fact, it is considered polite to show up 10 to 15 minutes late to a dinner party to give your host some time to add the finishing touches. However, there are no such things in restaurants, particularly the ones that are hard to get into. Be on time, or they will not hold your table for you. Call if you think you may be running late.

Seating

Unless you have a reservation or are eating in a fancier establishment where a reservation would be expected – in which case a waiter will likely jump out of nowhere to ask you if you have a reservation the second you step in – you can generally seat wherever you want. You can always ask a passing waiter “on peut s’asseoir?” (can we sit down?) if you are feeling unsure. Terraces are almost always on a first-come, first-serve basis.

Couples generally sit next to each other, and the waiter may pull a chair for the lady to sit. If you are part of a large group, the person who invites may indicate who is seating, alternating men and women if possible. It can lead to some awkward shuffling, so don't jump to the nearest seat on more formal occasions.

If it is a 2-person table, then the woman should be the one looking out. Men only have eyes for their dazzling companion, and their attention is not to be distracted by anything else, after all!

French Restaurant Etiquette – The Meal

As a golden rule, never order soda with a meal. Instead, ask for a carafe d’eau (a jug of tap water) which are available everywhere. It is usually served at room temperature and free of charge. Mineral and sparkling water are available for a fee. The French expect you to choose your wine according to what you eat. Food and drink orders are taken at the same time unless you go for an aperitif, like a glass of champagne or a cocktail to sip on while you wait for your food.

The waiter will also bring you a basket of crusty bread free of charge. While it might be tempting to munch on it after a long day of walking around Paris, it is best to pace yourself. Break it with your hands on the top left corner of your plate – a small plate is sometimes out. Break it into tiny morsels to put in your mouth, and do not put bread on your plate.

While in the U.S., the client is king and is (often) free to make any change he or she feels like to the menu. However, in France, the chef knows best. Substituting one thing for another is often frowned upon. If you have dietary restrictions or allergies, it is best to call the restaurant ahead to see what they can do to accommodate you.

Talking about ordering, most restaurants offer a 3-course prix fixe menu (a.k.a. menu du jour or formule du jour) with one to three options each for a starter, a main dish, and a dessert. There is usually a possibility to order only the starter or dessert with the main course. It is what most locals go for and is often the best value both in terms of budget and taste.

Portions are smaller than what you may be used to, and “splitting” a plate is absolutely not done unless it's cheese or charcuterie à partager (to share). The waiters will straight up refuse and give you a scolding if you ask!

Use your fork and knife no matter the food you pick, even fruits, French fries, and shrimp. Sandwiches are the exception, but some French people use their cutlery to eat those too. The exception is asparagus, which you can eat with your hands.

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Although it is a public space, French restaurants are all about making dining an intimate experience. Many restaurants, especially in Paris, seem to try to shove as many tables in a tiny space as humanly possible, and you may feel that you are dining while sitting on your neighbors' lap.

However, you will quickly notice that the noise level is infinitely lower than what you would usually encounter in the U.S. Keep your voice low at all times. If you are too loud, you will be stared down by everybody in the room, and the waiter will not hesitate to remind you to tone your conversation down a notch!

As anyone who has dined with a French family can tell you, meals can be a very, very lengthy affair. The French usually have an hour break for lunch, and there are no limits as far as dinner is concerned.

Waiters will rarely check on you unless you make eye contact and give them a little wave. You may have seen guests calling to the waiting staff by shouting “Garçon!” and snapping their fingers in old movies. But let’s be straight: that would not go down well at all nowadays…

A lengthy service is a sign of quality. You are there to enjoy yourself, so be patient. If you have to be out by a specific time, tell your waiter right away (and apologize profusely). They may be able to tell you which dish you should avoid ordering if you want to be out in time to catch your train or your movie.

The traditional order for a French meal includes starter, main dish, salad, cheese, dessert, and coffee. Dessert and coffee will not be served together unless it is a café gourmand.

The Exit

French waiters are trained not to clear the plates on the table until every single guest is done. You should not start your meal until everyone is served either. Place your fork and knife across the plate when you are done to indicate to the server you are finished.

The last thing your waiter will do is to rush you out the door by bringing the bill before you are even done with your main course: that would be considered rude. When you are ready to pay, ask your waiter for the bill since it is unlikely that they will bring it to the table themselves.

Taking your leftovers home is not customary. The food portions are, after all, significantly smaller than many American restaurants. However, since 2016, larger restaurants have to provide a to-go box to avoid food waste. Still, it is not the norm, and you may get a bit of a side-eye.

Tipping is always an awkward subject. Generally speaking, you are not required to tip in French restaurants. The service is included in the final bill – as are taxes – and waiters are paid a fair wage. However, feel free to round up to the nearest Euro amount for smaller bills, like coffee or drinks, or leave a Euro on the table.

In a fancier restaurant, a tip of 10% to 15% of the final amount in cash for exceptional service is appreciated but not compulsory. Nobody will ever come after you to tell you that you forgot to leave a tip.

Now, after reading all of these French dining etiquette tips, if you still want to brave a restaurant, there is only one more thing to say…Bon Appétit !

How about you? What have your experiences in a French restaurant been like? Did you wish you were aware of some of these “little rules?” Do tell!

AUTHOR BIO

Andi Fisher

I am married to a French man, lived in France for 3 years, and have been to Paris more than 50 times. I am always a tourist so the information, tip, and tricks I share are created to help you!

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Before you head out, I'd like to share some tips and tricks – French market etiquette – that will make your experience more enjoyable and your interactions with vendors more pleasant.

The markets come in various sizes and shapes and some markets are better than others or are known for certain products or characteristics. The best way to find what you like is by exploring, you can go to a different marché every day. You can see more information on how to find them at the end of this post.

Say Bonjour

I've said it before. Many, many times. When you enter a restaurant, a store, or walk up to a market stand in France, do not do anything else, or say anything else, before you say BONJOUR. Bonus if you add “Monsieur” or “Madame” after it. I cannot stress this point enough.

It is your key to any interaction in France. One of my favorite authors, a couple actually,  Jean-Benoit Nadeau and Julie Barlow, have written really great books on French culture. Their third book which came out at the end of last year called The Bonjour Effect: The Secret Codes of French Conversation Revealed is an excellent read, particularly on why saying “Bonjour” matters.

Waiting on Others

When a vendor is helping someone with their purchases, they will (usually) not help anyone else. Even if it is a 95-year-old woman taking her damn sweet time to choose her purchases. It is not you. It is the same respect that they give to every client. The vendor may or may not acknowledge you, but they know you are there. Sometimes this takes an infinite amount of patience.

From time to time when I am the client being served and I am still making selections I will tell the vendor he can help the next person while I continue to think about what I want, they always look at me incredulously but I think it is nice. Sometimes they will, sometimes they won't. Just be prepared that they usually help one client at a time.

Don't Touch!

The number one rule that most tourists break – and I have to admit even (the French) Mr. Misadventures got in trouble for doing this at a fruit stand on Rue Montorgueil… don't touch the produce! I know in the U.S. we grab/touch/poke/test our fruit and vegetables, etc. But it is a big no-no in France! (By the way, this is also a no-no in Spain and Italy.)

It is a hygiene issue – although lord knows, I've seen so many other unhygienic practices going on at markets, but it is what it is. The vendor will serve you. They are the masters and they will choose the “best” for you. However, do not let your eye off of them for a second or you may get something that doesn't look as optimal as it should!

The only time where it might be okay to pick your own is if you see plastic or paper bags in a pile available to you. That's (typically) a sign that you're welcome to pick out your own produce.

Coin purse

A coin purse is something I always pack when I am going to Paris (or other European destinations). You can't imagine how fast coins accumulate! You don't have big bulging pockets and most wallets don't accommodate the number of coins you will be dealing with. I have one with two sides, I put 1 and 2 Euro coins on one side and the rest of the denominations on the other.

It makes paying at the market quicker. Alternatively, if you don't want to feel flustered while counting out coins, bring small notes to pay – you'll end up with more coins but you won't have to worry about (a) ensuring you heard right for the total amount or (b) scrambling for coins.

Tote bag

The bags, plastic or otherwise, at the market are not that solid. And after you buy 2-3 things, your hands are full. I always bring multiple tote bags – ones for more delicate items, another for sturdier things, another for hot items, etc. We usually walk and/or take the metro to the various marchés so tote bags usually make transporting far easier.

Also, we were there in the spring when it was raining, and a lot of the paper bags disintegrate when they get wet. I often keep the sturdier plastic bags you get at some bakeries to double bag things, like chicken as the bag can be greasy. Tote bags don't take up a lot of room in your suitcase, alternatively, you can buy them for fairly cheap, or as souvenirs.

Where to find the markets?

Everywhere! But each market has its own schedule so if you are looking for a particular one, check out these resources:

In English: Food and specialist markets from the official Paris info site.
In French: All the hours by marché by day from the Ville de Paris site.

During our most recent trip, we visited the Marché Richard Lenoir in Bastille when it was open both Thursday and Sunday, it is one of the best in Paris. We also love the market streets Rue Poncelet and Rue Montorgueil.

What to Buy

Well, the answer is, it depends! If you are staying in a rental apartment/home like an Airbnb, which is what we had during our last visit to Paris, then the answer is lots! In particular, I highly recommend:

Rotisserie Chicken

The love for a good roasted chicken runs deep in the veins of any Frenchman. King Henry the 4th of France most notably says “I want there to be no peasant in my realm so poor that he will not have a chicken in his pot every Sunday.” When I lived in France we had roasted chicken with potatoes that we bought in our local marché every weekend.

It is delicious, relatively inexpensive, will last a couple of meals, and is easy to prep. Not so easy to have if you are staying in a hotel, but if you plan ahead with plates and napkins and ask the vendor to cut your chicken, it still makes a wonderful picnic.

Fruits & Vegetables

No matter where you are staying while visiting Paris, you can enjoy the very fresh fruit (and vegetables) that are available at the market. Mr. Misadventures and I personally think the quality is better and the origin closer to France when you buy in a marché versus a grocery store, but I don't have empirical proof. What I can say is that French strawberries have forever ruined any other strawberry for me.

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I often buy a basket of strawberries to eat while I am shopping. Could you resist these? They do taste as good as they look!

This past April/May the raspberries and blueberries were sensational. I have always been ambivalent about these 2 berries but could not get enough on this trip!

The white asparagus was in season as well. That's another thing about the markets, the stands start to look all the same because the vendors sell what is in season. Take the time to look for the best product (at the best price if you can negotiate) because you have a choice!

Market streets like Rue Poncelet and Rue Montorgueil have vendors that take great pride in their displays. Look how lovely these tomatoes look.

Also, the radishes, traditionally served with butter and sea salt once you get them home, were divine!

Cheese

There are hundreds of cheeses in France, if you count sub-varieties it can be over 1000! Take the time to try 1 or 2, okay a dozen while you are visiting. Lots of them cannot be imported to the United States, so it is a unique opportunity to taste cheeses you may never see again.

When to Buy

Of course, you can shop at the markets anytime they are open but there are a couple of times that are a little more optimal than others. The first is about 30 to 60 minutes after they open. When they are first open, the vendors are a little hassled getting set up (and waking up!) so they aren't as friendly (even though French people aren't overly friendly anyway!).

After about 30 minutes the vendors are warmed up and ready to go and anxious to sell, sell, sell! You will get the pick of the best.

The other best time is about 30 minutes before the market closes – you can get great deals. The vendors would rather not pack their product back up – every time they move they risk damaging it. Word of caution, it also when you risk getting produce that is it at its top freshness, but if you are okay with a little bruising, you can walk away with 2-for-1 and more!

You can have so much fun, absorb a lot of everyday French culture and life and find many delicious foods in France's markets/marchés, I highly recommend that you explore at least one on your next visit to Paris or France. Just remember to say “bonjour” and don't touch the fruit and vegetables!

How about you? Have you visited a market/marché in France? Have any additional tips? What's the best thing you bought? Do share!

AUTHOR BIO

Andi Fisher

I am married to a French man, lived in France for 3 years, and have been to Paris more than 50 times. I am always a tourist so the information, tip, and tricks I share are created to help you!

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The post French Etiquette & Culture – At the Market appeared first on Misadventures with Andi.

During a recent trip to Paris, my husband and I noticed a distinctly new difficulty in coffee ordering. Our coffee of preference while in France is the “noisette.” An espresso which just a kiss of hot milk. It's called a noisette (hazelnut in English) because of the color of the coffee.

Not complicated right? For nearly a week, no matter where we went, which Paris cafe we visited, even to places we had frequented many times, it was nearly impossible to get the correct version.

We got regular coffee with milk. Both coffee with hot milk. Regular coffee with cold milk. Espresso with no milk. Espressos with cold milk. It was bizarre!

If it had been anywhere else but Paris I would just shrug it off, but this was Paris!

That got me thinking about the extensive types of French coffee drinks that are available to order. I thought it might be fun and useful to describe the different types and how to order coffee in Paris, even if Paris coffee shops do their own thing! These are the ones that I am familiar with if any of my Parisian blogging buddies want to chime in, please do!

French coffee types

• Un café – plain coffee with nothing added, strong and (usually, not always) brewed like espresso but served in a bigger cup
• Un café au lait – coffee with steamed milk, you will sometimes get the coffee served in one pot or in the cup, and then a pitcher of steamed milk/cream
• Un café crème – coffee served in a large cup (as opposed to a normal size cup) with hot milk/cream
• Un café americain – filtered coffee
• Un expresso or un express – espresso – that one is easy!
• Un noisette – espresso with a hint of hot milk/cream in it
• Un crème – espresso with half of hot milk/cream (served in a coffee cup rather than an espresso cup)
• Un allongé – espresso coffee with double the amount of water, basically a weak black coffee
• Un serré – espresso coffee with half the usual amount of water, basically strong black coffee, in Switzerland this is called a ristretto (it is what I drink every morning from my Swiss Nespresso machine
• Un double – a double espresso
• Un déca – decaf coffee

If you want anything beyond that, you better go to Starbucks. But don't expect that you will be able to order anything like a “half-caf-half-decaf-extra-blah-blah-with-no-foam, etc.” Never going to happen!

Coffee etiquette in France

So the French are a little “picky” on this but believe me, it is worse in Italy! In restaurants, you can drink a café noir (black) or espresso any time of day, but the only time you can drink it with food is at breakfast.

Also, you will not be served your coffee until after you have finished your dessert, no matter what! The only way to get around this is to order a café gourmand. Normally it is customary to have an espresso (or a deca espresso), so if you try to order something that has milk/cream, they will look at you a bit strange or ignore you, but my husband and I still do it.

You have now been educated in the ways of coffee à la France. Go forth an order.

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Great places for Coffee in Paris

Here are a few great lists of coffee spots in Paris from friends that live there:
> You can find great new coffee spots in Lindsey's book, The New Paris.
> My friend Kasia has her favorite Coffee Picks too.
> David Lebovitz shares where he thinks you can get a good cup of coffee in Paris.
> Haven in Paris shares cafes that have opened recently.
> Paris by Mouth has a listing of coffee places by arrondissement.
> My friends at La Cuisine Paris have put together a great map of their favorite coffee places.

How about you? Anyone else have any coffee-related travel stories?

Illustrations commissioned from Linden Eller.

AUTHOR BIO

Andi Fisher

I am married to a French man, lived in France for 3 years, and have been to Paris more than 50 times. I am always a tourist so the information, tip, and tricks I share are created to help you!

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