No two Kimptons are alike. So let's explore this one!

Disclosure: My 2-night stay at the Kimpton Tryon Park Hotel was hosted. As always, ALL opinions are my own.

As a connoisseur of the unique and a devotee of the good life, I found my latest adventure steeped in the sort of opulence that could only befit a Queen… City, that is.

A Royal Welcome

From the moment we stepped into the lobby, the Kimpton Tryon Park whispered (or rather, stylishly declared) a blend of contemporary chic with nods to the local culture.

The interiors were a feast for the eyes. With towering lobby windows that fill the space with natural light, bold art installations, a striking crystal installation cascading from the ceiling, and plush furnishings, there is an ambiance that dances on the edge of a modern art gallery and a luxe living room.

Every corner of this hotel whispers of bespoke elegance, from the textured gray and indigo hues with touches of royal purple to the pristine white Italian marble underfoot.

We treated this weekend as a staycation, a gift to ourselves with no real agenda planned except enjoying the hotel. Keep reading to follow along!

Rooms for Royalty

The rooms? Oh, the rooms! Ours was gorgeous and so comfortable. Floor-to-ceiling windows offered sweeping views of the city’s heartbeat…and Truist Stadium where Friday and Saturday night the Charlotte Knights (Triple-A team for the Chicago White Sox) played.

Being the baseball fan that I am, I was able to watch portions of the game from our room – the pitch, the hit, the runs. Sure, if I wanted to see it in detail I needed binoculars, but I was so happy to be in proximity (I swear it felt like I could catch a ball) of the stadium!

Our room was the perfect backdrop for our lazy weekend, the sun casting gentle patterns through sheer curtains, coffee in hand (from the wonderful coffee station in the lobby), and not a single plan to disrupt our serenity.

Truly, la dolce vita!

The Italian ethos of appreciating the little things comes alive at the Tryon Park Hotel. As I took in the details: a striking piece of local art here, an incredibly comfortable bed, just simple pleasures that elevate everyday experiences.

Little known fact, Mr. Misadventures is a pillow snob. So when I wake up to the hubby ripping off the pillowcase to investigate the pillow's brand, filling, and casing…you KNOW it's a good pillow! Our room had the down alternative pillow, and yes, you can buy them! (And Mr. Misadventures is gonna!)

We enjoyed 2 incredibly restful nights of sleep. I always sleep well, the hubby not so much, so it was a real treat to see him so happy!

I was happy too!

If the pillow was his favorite thing about the room, then mine was the Atelier Bloem (bloem means flower in Dutch) bath and body collection which is created exclusively for Kimpton hotels. By the weekend, we were also ordering a bottle of the mandarin and citrus body wash!

Eats + Treats

Kimpton properties often feature vibrant social scenes, with popular restaurants and bars that attract both locals and visitors. They aim to create a sense of community and connection among guests, which is a signature aspect of their brand identity.

At the Kimpton Tryon Park, the stars of the show are Merchant + Trade rooftop bar and Angeline's restaurant.

Kimpton's Wine Hour/Social Hour

But first, what’s a stay at a Kimpton without a little mingling? The evening wine hour, one of our favorite experiences when we visited our first Kimpton in Winston-Salem is a hallmark of the Kimpton brand. It transforms the lobby into a social hub, buzzing with stories from travelers around the world.

Here, we found ourselves amid laughter, tales of travels, and the clinking of glasses—a modern-day salon where connections were as plentiful as the wine poured.

Bonus! From time to time they also serve seasonal cocktails. That wasn't the case the evening we attended, BUT they offered pizza from Angeline's, a treat!

Pre-dinner Aperitivo at Merchant + Trade

Merchant & Trade is a sophisticated rooftop bar, loved by locals and visitors alike. This sleek, modern venue offers stunning panoramic views of Charlotte's skyline, creating a perfect backdrop for an evening out. It's even ranked in the Top 50 best rooftop bars!

We waited our turn at the lobby elevator, had our IDs checked, and ascended to the lounge for a pre-dinner drink.

They have a small menu that features an inventive mix of Southern-inspired small plates, crafted with a focus on local and seasonal ingredients. And for the bar, the cocktail program shines with unique concoctions that blend classic flavors with unexpected twists, alongside a thoughtful selection of wines and local craft beers.

I ordered the Scottish Missionary which is scotch whisky, fresh pineapple, and lime, house-made cinnamon grapefruit demerara syrup, local honey, and fresh mint. We enjoyed deviled eggs (hard to resist in the South) as we didn't want to ruin our appetite for dinner.

The indoor-outdoor design works perfectly with Charlotte's balmy climate, making it a majestic spot to sip cocktails under the stars. If you time it right, you can enjoy the fireworks at the ballpark after the game!

Angeline's Restaurant: Che buono! 

Angeline's offers a delightful taste of Italy in the heart of Queen City. The restaurant combines a modern, inviting ambiance with a menu that celebrates the rustic flavors of Italian cuisine. From wood-fired pizzas and handmade pasta to fresh seafood dishes, every plate is a reflection of traditional Italian cooking techniques paired with locally sourced ingredients.

The vibrant, open kitchen adds a dynamic flair to the dining experience, allowing guests to watch as chefs craft their meals with passion and precision. Angeline's also boasts an impressive wine list, featuring both Italian classics and local favorites, curated to complement the rich and diverse flavors of the menu.

Truth be told, Mr. Misadventures and I are kind of picky when it comes to Italian food, so our expectations were low. We have had amazing meals on various trips to Italy and those experiences (here, here, here, and here) are hard to compete with.

We were blown away by our dinner!

We made one misstep with one of our starters. Mr. Misadventures ordered the Calamari Semolina as he can never resist a good fried calamari dish. I think if we hadn't had our mind set on Italian, the starter would have been just fine, but we were in an Italian frame of mind, so we found the breading heavier, more Southern style, than our preferred fritto misto.

But the starter I ordered made up for the slight disappointment with the calamari. I got the whipped ricotta which came with a lavender Honey drizzled on top with lemon oil and lovely crunchy pieces of pistachio. It's served with some excellent house bread. Never in my life have I ever had a ricotta this smooth! So ultra-creamy! And delicious.

We had died and gone to cheese heaven!

After that, we were excited to see our main courses!

I ordered the Cacio e Pepe. This was a test. This pasta dish is so simple, 3 ingredients, that it is easy to mess up. It is pecorino cheese and pepper typically with spaghetti. Angeline's version uses Lumache a small, ridged, shell-shaped pasta with pecorino and toasted black pepper.

It was superb. I think the toasting of the pepper adds something! It wasn't too cheese and the pasta was cooked perfectly. A hit!

Mr. Misadventures will always order a fish dish if it's available and there was a special for the evening with halibut. A perfectly grilled piece of halibut on top of a corn purée with okra. A great melange of Southern and Italian flavors. It got a big thumbs-up!

We went to bed that night with huge smiles on our faces.

The next morning we sprung out of bed (after an excellent night of sleep) to head back to Angeline's for breakfast. I still had that life-changing ricotta on my mind and decided to bookend my meal with ricotta waffles. I had never had ricotta pancakes or waffles so I was curious.

As we waited for our meals (avocado toast with egg for the misters) we chatted about the Italian culture and lifestyle over coffee. Mr. Misadventures is French and I am a francophile, but we have always appreciated that Italians are just happier people. There is a difference between joie de vivre and la dolce vita and we want to dig into it more.

We were so impressed with the food at Angeline's!

Local Touches

As with the Cardinal Kimpton in Winston-Salem, I really appreciated the local touches. The brand is renowned for its commitment to integrating local culture into each of its properties, offering guests a unique and immersive experience.

Each hotel's décor is thoughtfully curated to reflect the history, art, and spirit of its location, often featuring works by local artists and craftsmen.

The staff at Tryon Park are adorned with a Rook and King hornet lapel pin. This nod to Charlotte’s fierce spirit—the “Hornet’s Nest” of rebellion—was a subtle yet powerful reminder of the city’s tenacious past. You can read more about the local designer, Jeremiah Allen, here.

A Great Location

When we ventured out, the heart of Charlotte awaited. Nestled in Uptown, the hotel is just steps away from cultural institutions, buzzing eateries, and verdant parks. As we were walking around we stumbled upon the Taste of Charlotte food festival! Charlotte is a big sports town too: baseball, football, and basketball.

We walked around Romare Bearden Park a bit too and watched locals enjoying the park all weekend long.

North Carolina's oldest art museum, the Mint Museum, is nearby. There are local and internationally renowned artists; Chihuly's “Royal Blue Mint Chandelier,” and a focus on fine crafts such as glass, pottery, wood, and jewelry. Right next door, you'll find the Bechtler Museum of Modern Art. The museum's architecture is stunning, and it's home to works from major artists like Picasso and Warhol. Plus, if your weekend starts on the first Friday of the month, you can catch one of two jazz shows.

In Queen City, the Kimpton Tryon Park Hotel stands out as a jewel. Each of Kimpton's unique siblings reflects its locale, but Charlotte’s version—so airy and regal—feels especially crafted for those of us who cherish beauty, from the grand to the minute. So, if you are ever heading to Charlotte, consider this royal retreat for a taste of Southern hospitality mixed with cosmopolitan flair. After all, isn't life about enjoying the majestic views from the top?

How about you? Have you visited Charlotte? Have I interested you in a stay at the Tryon Kimpton, a drink at Merchant & Trade, or a meal at Angeline's? Have a recommendation for Charlotte? Do tell!

Book Your Stay at the Kimpton Tryon Park Hotel: 

Booking.com | Expedia | Trip Advisor

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As those monikers both speak to me (plus Francophile, which you will learn about in a bit), that beacon beckoned Mr. Misadventures and I for a staycation!

Disclosure: My 2-night stay at the Kimpton Cardinal Hotel was hosted. As always, ALL opinions are my own.

Picture this: you're planning your next getaway, scrolling endlessly through hotel options, seeking that perfect blend of comfort, style, and a pinch of the extraordinary. Suddenly, you stumble upon Kimpton Hotels, and you pause. Why? Because Kimpton isn't just another hotel chain; it's a doorway to experiences as unique as your fingerprint. 

My experience at the Kimpton Cardinal allowed me to discover what makes it the darling of discerning travelers. This hotel offers a unique blend of Southern charm and elegance, making it a perfect getaway for those seeking a stay (or staycation!) with a difference.

Every Stay is Uniquely Yours

Kimpton Hotels prides itself on not just being a place to stay but rather a chapter in your story, a treasured part of your journey. Each property is infused with personality, from chic urban retreats in the heart of bustling cities, like the Hotel Enso in San Francisco, to tranquil havens in serene landscapes like the Kimpton Aluna Resort Tulum. 

Imagine sipping a perfectly mixed cocktail on a rooftop garden overlooking the city skyline, like the Kimpton Tryon Park Hotel in Charlotte, which is calling me for my next staycation! Or unwinding in a room that feels more like a personalized sanctuary than a standard hotel room. 

That's the Kimpton experience. My first stay at a Kimpton will not be my last!

Beyond One Size Fits All

In a world clamoring for personalization, where brands often make you feel like a transaction, Kimpton listens and delivers. Here, it's not about fitting into the hotel's way of doing things; it's about the hotel fitting into your way of living, even if it's just for a night or two. 

That is definitely how Mr. Misadventures and I felt during our 2-night stay.

A Glimpse into the Past

The Kimpton Cardinal Hotel is housed in the historic R.J. Reynolds building, a structure that once served as the blueprint for the Empire State Building. Yes, you read that correctly. Before New York City's skyline was forever changed, Winston-Salem boasted its own architectural masterpiece. 

Completed in 1929, this Art Deco gem has been meticulously preserved and transformed, ensuring its legacy continues to dazzle and inspire.

The building has long been a landmark in Winston-Salem. Its transformation into the Kimpton Cardinal Hotel has breathed new life into this architectural gem, all the while preserving its rich heritage. While the building's origins are deeply tied to the R.J. Reynolds Tobacco Company, a name that evokes mixed emotions due to its association with the tobacco industry, there's an undeniable legacy that the Reynolds family has left on the city. This legacy is not just economic but also cultural, and it's this nuanced history that the hotel embraces and celebrates.

The renovation of this historic building into a luxury hotel represents a thoughtful balance between acknowledging the past and moving forward. The hotel serves as a reminder of the city's resilience and ability to reinvent itself, turning a symbol of industrial might into a beacon of hospitality and elegance.

Mr. Misadventures loves architecture and is mesmerized by cityscapes like New York and Chicago, wandering around the hotel for the weekend, he was like a little kid in a candy store. All the detailing…he couldn’t get enough.

You can’t ignore this magnificent art deco entryway. The building is on this list of National Register of Historic Places.

Signage around the hotel allows you to absorb the immensity of this building's place in history. P.S. Don’t miss the postcard to “Dad” sent from the Empire State Building to the R.J. Reynolds building when it had its 50th birthday!

North Carolina Meets New York City

Stepping into the Kimpton Cardinal Hotel, you're immediately enveloped in an atmosphere of warmth. The design seamlessly integrates the building's historic elements with modern touches, creating a very inviting space. From the opulent elevator banks and the mid-century modern design of the living room to the cozy guest rooms, every space has been thoughtfully curated to ensure maximum comfort and aesthetic pleasure.

In a nod to its roots, the Kimpton Cardinal Hotel masterfully incorporates elements of North Carolina into its property, weaving the state's heritage and natural beauty into its very fabric. The hotel takes its name from the cardinal, North Carolina's state bird, a symbol of beauty and grace that is reflected in the hotel's elegant design and attentive service. 

Further embracing its locale, the hotel features the North Carolina tartan in some of its furniture. This distinctive plaid pattern, recognized officially by the state, adds a touch of local tradition and warmth to the hotel's chic interiors. 

These thoughtful details celebrate the state's rich history and culture and ensure that the essence of North Carolina is palpably felt throughout the hotel, offering guests a deeply rooted sense of place and connection.

Culinary Delights Await

A significant aspect of the hotel's charm is its connection to the Francophile inclinations of Katharine Reynolds, R.J. Reynolds's wife. Her love for French culture and lifestyle (probably inspired by her honeymoon in France) is woven into the very essence of the restaurant, which bears her name. 

Truth be told, this was the main reason for our stay. I will tell you a secret though. Mr. Misadventures and I generally avoid French restaurants outside of France. Yes. You read that right. The Frenchman and the Francophile hate to be disappointed when it comes to food, and we have found one way to do that to just skip the French restaurant, we have too high of expectations.

So close your eyes and picture this. A man and a woman sitting at a bistro table in Paris. The maître d'hôtel arrives with 2 plates in hand. Classic brasserie or bistro dishes. Magret de canard in one hand. Steak au poivre in the other. The Frenchman cuts into the steak, swipes it through truffle pomme purée, and then silence. 

The next thing you hear is the imperceptible hum of pleasure. 

That mes amis is an accomplishment.

And that’s exactly what happened at our dinner. Two very pleased, very surprised diners who are now planning how to get back to the restaurant. Toute suite.

Katharine's offers guests a dining experience that transports them to the heart of Paris, with a menu that cleverly infuses Southern ingredients with French culinary techniques. This blend of cultures is a testament to the hotel's ability to offer something truly unique—a taste of France nestled in the warmth of Southern hospitality.

Here, the focus is on fresh, locally sourced ingredients, expertly crafted into dishes that pay homage to traditional French cuisine with a modern twist. The inviting ambiance and impeccable service make dining here an experience to savor.

While I love beautiful food photography, I am not a fan of interrupting other people’s meals to take them. So no photos of our amazing meal, désolée. I had the Oeuf Mimosa au Foie Gras (French deviled eggs) and the Canard aux la Ronce (Five spice duck). Mr. Misadventures had the Tartare de Thon and the previously mentioned, perfectly cooked Steak au Poivre.

Our breakfast on Sunday morning was fantastic too. Great coffee (p.s. there is also a coffee station in the living room in the morning serving free coffee between 6 and 10 am), a croque Monsieur for the mister, and a Belgian waffle for me.

Conclusion: No stay at the Kimpton Cardinal Hotel is complete without indulging in the culinary delights that await at The Katharine. 

Accommodations with a Personal Touch

Each room and one-bedroom suites have been designed with the guest's comfort in mind, blending luxurious amenities with personal touches that make each stay unique. Whether you're sinking into the plush premium bedding, admiring the city views, or enjoying the bespoke bath products from Atelier Bloem, you'll feel pampered and well-cared for.

P.S. You can buy the travel versions of the Atelier Bloem line exclusive to Kimpton Hotels on Amazon!

Let’s talk about the glamorous bathroom for one moment. If the deep soaking tub doesn’t call to you, the spacious shower will certainly do the trick. Depending on your room location, your bathtub may even have a view!

Harkening back to those Southern manners and Southern hospitality I’ve grown to appreciate in my new home state of North Carolina. If you forget something, the Kimpton Cardinal can probably help you out. They have a partnership with Anthropologie, so if that thing you forgot is a pair of sunglasses, a purse, or a scarf, you can rent it from the hotel and if you love it, they will give you the info on how to purchase it.

This Tate Beaded Handbag made me wish I had forgotten my purse!

Sorry. I got distracted by a shiny object. 

The hotel interior, including its hotel rooms, was designed by Theresa Fatino Design, who is behind the designs of many luxury hotel properties. She may be global, but all furnishings were sourced in North Carolina. You are probably not aware, but this state is commonly referred to as “the furniture capital of the world.”  

There is a nod to more Southern charms in the night table from the ceiling with ropes just like porch swings found throughout the South. The rooms have a very masculine feel to them including a hattip to fishing and hunting which is also important to North Carolina. There are deer antlers that hang over the bed. [I forgot to ask if they had antlerless rooms for my vegetarian and vegan friends.] 

No shots from our hotel room. I didn’t spend a lot of time in our room, we were too busy exploring the rest of the property! I slept very well and that’s the best reward you can get from a long day of being out and about. The hotel website has plenty of photos of their guest rooms and our room was a true representation of what you see.

Unwind and Rejuvenate at the Kimpton Cardinal Hotel

For those looking to unwind, the Kimpton Cardinal offers a variety of amenities designed to rejuvenate the body and soul. The fitness center, equipped with state-of-the-art equipment, is perfect for those wanting to maintain their workout routine. Oh, and there are in-room yoga mats if you want to work out in private.

Meanwhile, don’t forget to take advantage of the recreational facilities in the basement, affectionately known as “The Rec Room,” inspired by a recreation room in the Reynolds family estate, Reynolda. The recreation area features a bowling alley, ping pong, a basketball court, and a slide, yes, an adult-size slide, adding a touch of whimsy and fun to your stay. 

Part of North Carolina’s Piedmont Triad, Winston-Salem is home to Wake Forest University and Winston Salem University and their sports teams are well-represented in the decor. Go Demon Deacons!

Fun fact. Many moons ago I used to bowl in a league. Yup. Every Thursday night for a couple of years. So I was just itching to get my hands on a ball and try my hand. 

Southern Hospitality: Service with Personality

What truly sets the Kimpton Cardinal Hotel apart is its unwavering commitment to hospitality. The staff goes above and beyond to ensure that every guest feels welcomed, valued, and taken care of. It's this level of service, combined with the hotel's rich history and luxurious offerings, that makes a stay here not just a night away from home, but an experience to cherish.

Whether it's someone remembering your drink preference or the concierge going the extra mile to make your stay unforgettable.

The thoughtful touches like the option to borrow a bike to explore the surroundings, or the complimentary wine hours that encourage mingling with fellow travelers make each stay uniquely memorable.

On our first night at the wine hour, we met a truly fabulous couple that we connected with right away. We chatted for the entire 60 minutes. We discussed our weekend plans, and our dining plans, and connected over our love for travel.

We shared that we were heading out the next morning to try out the recent James Beard awarded semi-finalist for Outstanding Bakery, Bobby Boy Bakeshop and wouldn’t you know it, we ran into each other in the lobby and met them there for breakfast.

Saturday night we ran into them again in the Katharine and exchanged contact info. The Kimpton Cardinal knows how to set the stage to bring people together.

It’s clear that Kimpton understands that sometimes, the best part of traveling is the people you meet along the way. Through communal spaces designed to bring people together and events that invite guests to connect, Kimpton creates a sense of community, even far from home. It's not just about sharing a space; it's about sharing stories, laughs, and sometimes even a dance or two.

Speaking of which. That fantastic dinner at the Katharine Brasserie? Another thing that makes Kimpton hotels so special. Locals. They draw in the local residents (and in the case of the Kimpton Cardinal, even share the building as several floors are apartments for rent) who gather to enjoy the beautiful zinc bar for a cocktail, the restaurant for a meal, or the space for jazz on Tuesday and Thursday nights.

I digress. Who would have imagined that the maître d'hôtel, knowing we were a Franco-American couple visiting for the first time, would sit another Franco-American couple from the area next to us? Kismet. We chatted for quite a long time and enjoyed ourselves immensely. We appreciated the consideration and the opportunity to interact with locals who appreciated the hotel and restaurant themselves.  

It's this spirit of kindness and attention to detail that turns first-time guests (me!)  into lifelong fans.

A few more things I appreciated:

Sustainability with a Heart

Kimpton's commitment to sustainability is not just a footnote in its brand story; it's a core principle that guides its operations. From responsibly sourced ingredients in their restaurants to eco-friendly practices that reduce waste and conserve water, Kimpton shows that luxury and responsibility can go hand in hand. 

It's about enjoying the finer things in life while ensuring future generations can do the same.

Pets Are More Than Guests, They're Family

Mr. Misadventures and I love dogs. (In case, Jessica is rolling over in her grave, we love cats too.) We don’t have a dog because frankly, we travel too much. We could not help but notice dogs everywhere and we were not mad about it. On the way up to our room in the ornate brass elevators, we commented on that fact to a couple with a cutie. 

She said that Kimpton Hotels is one of the few pet friendly hotel brands that allow pets and do not charge fees. Kimpton’s pet-friendly policies mean your furry companions are not just allowed but welcomed with open arms and special treats. 

Pets are pampered with the same devotion and attention to detail as their human companions. Forget the stress of finding a pet sitter or the heartache of leaving your furry friend behind because, at Kimpton, pets stay free. No extra charges, no weight limits, and no breed restrictions. 

From plush pet beds in your room to complimentary treats at check-in, and even designated pet-friendly areas for play and relaxation, every detail is thoughtfully designed to make your pet's stay as comfortable and joyous as yours. It's a delightful confirmation that when Kimpton says “everyone's welcome,” they truly mean everyone, paws and all.

I was delighted to see a giant [perfectly well-behaved] dog sprawled out on one of the mid-century modern sofas in the lavish social living room next to its owner who happily sipped on Pinot Grigio! 

The Heart of Winston-Salem, The Soul of a Traveler

Located in downtown Winston-Salem, the hotel offers easy access to the city's vibrant arts scene, historic landmarks, innovation quarter, and bustling eateries. It's the perfect base from which to explore all that this charming Southern city has to offer, from its cultural institutions to its picturesque parks (it’s a block away from Bailey Park).

The Kimpton Cardinal Hotel is more than just a place to stay; it's a journey into the heart of Winston-Salem's storied past, a celebration of luxury and comfort, and a testament to the enduring charm of Southern hospitality. Whether you're a history buff, a luxury seeker, or simply in need of a delightful escape, the Kimpton Cardinal Hotel awaits to enchant and inspire. Join us, and let your adventure begin.

In the vast sea of hotel options, Kimpton Hotels stands out for those seeking more than just a place to stay. It's for the traveler in search of stories, flavors, and connections. Each visit is a new chapter, each hotel a different setting, but the essence remains the same: a commitment to making every stay as unique as the guests themselves.

How about you? Have you ever stayed at a Kimpton Hotel? Have you visited the Kimpton Cardinal? Are you inspired to? Do tell!

Booking a room is easy! Plus, Kimpton has been awarded, “Highest in Guest Satisfaction Among Upper Upscale Hotel Chains” by J.D. Power three times. Go on, you'll love it!

Kimpton Cardinal Hotel in Winston-Salem, NC is located at 51 4th St E. The nearest airport to Winston-Salem is Greensboro/High Point (GSO) Airport which is 17.3 miles away. Other nearby airports include Charlotte (CLT) (72.8 miles), and Raleigh/Durham (RDU) (83.3 miles).

Our drive from the Raleigh-Durham area was 1.5 hours.

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One of the first things Mr. Misadventures and I did when we moved to North Carolina in February of 2020 was head for a weekend at the beach to seek out these beasts.

Wild horses have been roaming North Carolina's Outer Banks ever since European settlers arrived there centuries ago. The history of these beautiful animals in North Carolina is a fascinating one. The earliest records date back to the early 1700s when explorers had brought horses with them on their journey across the New World.

These Colonial Spanish mustangs are likely the survivors of shipwrecks and were stranded in the Outer Banks centuries ago. Or they could have also been left behind by the first explorers. No one knows for sure.

With their long, flowing manes and wild eyes the wild horses are truly a sight to behold. Though it is illegal for people to approach them closely (they are protected by law from harm and harassment) many visitors come every year just for an opportunity to have this once-in-a-lifetime experience to see them.

My own experiences have been exceptional. I have seen horses on every visit and I have truly enjoyed observing the area's oldest and most beloved residents. I am so glad that I live close enough that I can see them year-round. Most people that come to visit this beautiful stretch of coastline want to see wild horses at least once! And you should definitely make it part of your itinerary.

So where do wild horses live, where are the best places to see them and how can you find them? I've got you covered! Here are the 3 places where you can see wild horses: Corolla, Shackleford Banks, and Carrot Island. P.S. you'll notice that Rodanthe is not on this list 😉

Shackleford Banks

In a world of endless asphalt and concrete, Shackleford Banks is an oasis for those looking to escape (I would highly recommend Cape Lookout for the same, but alas, no horses there). The warm sun contrasts with cool (yet wild!) waves and there are miles upon miles of sand where you can clear your mind.

One of the reasons I put this location first is that it is my favorite and a much quieter part of the Southern Outer Banks off the North Carolina coast. I also put this spot first because it is my favorite, but none of them are “perfect” they all have pros and cons. 

There are 140 horses on the island is several herds, however, visitors can only access them via boat or kayak, which means that you have to plan ahead for this one! It takes approximately 30 minutes to get to the island via ferry which you can take from either Beaufort or Harker's Island.

There are no cars allowed and you are limited to what you can take on the ferry, so this is best for a day trip or half-day depending on what you are doing. It is possible to see horses from the beach. Mr. Misadventures and I saw horses on the beach, in the marshes, and in the interior of the island.

Read my entire post on Shackleford Banks to get all of the details and information you need!

How many wild horses are in Shackleford Banks: 140

Carrot Island

Carrot Island – The horses on Carrot Island are a little different from the herds on Shackleford Banks and in Corolla. They are not wild, but rather feral, and are descendants of livestock that was brought to the island in the 1940s. Carrot Island is part of the Rachel Carson reserve was designated as a part of the North Carolina National Estuarine Research Reserve in 1985. The only way to get there is from Beaufort and there is only 1 tour operator that can take you. The boat ride is literally five minutes! 

There are fewer horses on the island but we did see them on both the beaches and the marshes.

Read all the details about seeing horses on Carrot Island in my Beaufort post.

How many wild horses are on Carrot Island: 40

If you are checking out horses in Shackleford Banks and Carrot Island I highly recommend checking out Beaufort and staying at the Inn on Turner.

Corolla

The wild horses in Corolla in the Northern Outer Banks are the most popular likely because they are the most accessible. The upside is that if you have a 4×4 capable of driving on the beach, you can get to them whenever you like. Meaning you don't have to rely on a ferry schedule.

If you don't have a 4×4 or aren't comfortable with driving in the sand, the good news is that there are a few tour companies like Wild Horse Adventures Tours and Corolla Outback Adventures (which my friend Tanya did) that can take you out there. This area is popular as it is close to all the other Outer Bank attractions and towns where hotels and home/condo rentals are. The downside is that it is crowded.

The loose band of horses in this area is a herd called the “Corolla wild horses” that roam freely along the northern beaches of the Carova all the way up to the Virginia border. With long, flowing manes and gentle eyes, it's hard to believe that these beautiful animals thrive in this sandy terrain!

The one cool thing about the location of these horses is that you can rent a home along the beaches they roam. You can rent to home or condo and if you are lucky you could be drinking your morning coffee or pre-sunset cocktail and see them write from your window or deck. That is not something you can experience at the other 2 locations.

How many wild horses are in Corolla: 100

If you aren't renting a house or condo and prefer RVing or camping, check out the new Outer Banks West/Currituck KOA in Coinjock, my friend Tanya stayed there recently and I am checking it out soon!

Important things to Note

• These horses are WILD and are protected. You may not approach within 50 feet (a school bus) of them. You will need a telephoto or zoom lens to capture them.
• The horses are under the protection of federal and state law depending on where you are.
  • The Shackleford Banks horses live on federal land as Shackleford Banks is part of Cape Lookout National Seashore. These horses are co-managed by CALO and the non-profit organization: Foundation for Shackleford Horses.
  • Carrot Island is part of the Rachel Carson Reserve and those horses live on state government land which is part of the North Carolina Division of Coastal Management Coastal Reserve program. These horses are managed by the Coastal Reserve.
• Management means they have a breeding program to the extent that they track manage contraception (via a dart) to manage herd size/growth.
• The horses in Corolla are managed by a non-profit called the Corolla Wild Horse Fund and (they also have a museum) who assist with emergencies regarding the horses in this area, DNA testing, soil, and plant studies, maintain the fencing, and public education.
• Do NOT feed the horses ANYTHING. Humans and their food are a danger to the herd's survival.
• Horses and hurricanes. These horses have lived in these areas for hundreds of years and have adapted to the weather including hurricanes. Drone footage taken of a herd on Shackleford Banks when the eye of a hurricane was passing by showed that the horses were standing in a circle shoulder to shoulder with the young and elderly horses protected in the middle. These are resilient creatures!

The Outer Banks is a dream destination for many people, but not everyone knows how to find these wild horses. Luckily, there are these 3 places where you'll be able to see them. Each has its own uniqueness and all of them are special. Be sure to explore them all! The wild horses are an iconic symbol of the area, and it is worth seeing for yourself.

If you have any chance of getting sea sick while taking a boat, water bus, or ferry, I HIGHLY recommend PSI bands. I have used them for more than a decade, and they work! I gift them to friends all the time and keep a spare set in my glove compartment for visitors who may also get car sick.

How about you? Have you seen the wild horses in the Outer Banks? What was your experience like? If you haven't, is it on your bucket list? Do share!

If you are out west and are looking to see wild horses in Arizona, take a day trip from Phoenix to see the Heber horses!

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Cape Lookout and the Cape Lookout Lighthouse are part of the Cape Lookout National Seashore in the Outer Banks (of North Carolina) and managed by the NPS. I have previously written about Shackleford Banks which is also part of the national seashore. You can get to the island by ferry or private boat and there are many things to do while visiting, including camping, fishing, birding, hiking, and more.

In this blog post, I will cover how to camp at cape lookout national seashore with tips that will help make your experience as good as possible!

What is Cape Lookout National Seashore

Cape Lookout National Seashore is a set of barrier islands covering a 56-miles (90-km) section of the Crystal Coast in North Carolina, running from the Ocracoke Inlet to Beaufort Inlet. It is part of the National Park System and was created in 1966. As I have mentioned before, I really do prefer the Southern area of the Outer Banks as it is wilder, harder to get to, and therefore not as developed as its northern neighbor.

How to get to Cape Lookout National Seashore

Well, it depends on what you want to do! For day trips take a passenger ferry from either Beaufort or Harker's Island. You will have the option of stopping by Shackleford Banks first, or you can go directly to Cape Lookout. Also, if you are one of those minimalist campers and get everything into 2 bags, you can also use the passenger ferries to get to Cape Lookout for camping.

However, if you are like the rest of us who like to have a few extra amenities while camping, then you are probably going to want to bring your car. And for that, there are two ferry services that take cars. Although, there also passengers too.

Both go out of Davis one is the Cape Lookout Cabins & Camps (don't let the name fool you, they do not manage any cabins or camping, that is all done through the NPS) and one is Davis Shore Ferry Service. They can accommodate 4 to 6 cars depending on the ferry. It costs $80/85 per vehicle or at least a regular size car and then $16 for adults. We reserved with each of the companies.

Davis Shore is very organized over the phone (you can only make reservations over the phone [both companies]) they take your credit card and will charge you if you cancel within 24 hours. You will get an email confirmation. Cape Lookout Cabin & Camps Ferry Service is a little more loosey-goosey.

They don't take credit card information over the phone (therefore you will not be charged if you don't show up which could be a bonus I guess) and do not send any confirmation. That worried me and I ended up calling the day before we left to make sure they still had our reservation.

Space is limited and you must make select a return time when you make your initial reservation. However, you will see later that you can call and ask to be moved up if there is space.

Davis Shore Ferry Service
148 Willis Road, Davis, North Carolina 28524
Reservations: (252) 729-3474
Ferries operate (weather allowing) March 15 – December 31 (closed Dec 24-26) and may be increased or decreased based on seasonal demand. As far as I can tell, they only have 1 ferry.

Departures from Davis: 7:00 am, 9:00 am, 11:00 am, 1:00 pm, 3:00 pm
Returns from Great Island: 8:00 am, 10:00 am, 12:00 pm, 2:00 pm, 4:00 pm

Cape Lookout Cabins & Camps
125 Grady Davis Lane, Davis, NC 28524
Reservations: (252) 729-9751 or (252) 729-9752
Ferries seem to run all year. Times adjust for seasonal demand (Labor Day Weekend and October) and/or weather conditions. They have 2 ferries: Miss Tempie and Miss Brenda.

Departures from Davis (Miss Tempie): 7:30 am, 9:30 am, 11:30 am, 1:30 pm, 3:30 pm.
Departures from Davis (Miss Brenda): 8:00 am, 10:00 am, 12:00 pm, 2:00 pm,4:00 pm.

Returns from Great Island (Miss Tempie): 8:30 am, 10:30 am, 12:30 pm, 2:30 pm, 4:30 pm.
Returns from Great Island (Miss Brenda): 9:00 am, 11:00 am, 1:00 pm, 3:00 pm, 5:00 pm.

I recommend that you take a car to Cape Lookout if you were interested in doing camping fishing etc. Any activity you might have extra equipment that you would not be able to take on a regular passenger ferry. Alternatively, you can rent a 4 x 4 vehicle (Kubota) from the ferry service that you can load up with your equipment.

Or you can rent one on the island. There is a concessioner who rents them out at the Cape Lookout visitor's center and people use them for fishing and getting around the island.

The ferry takes 30 minutes to cover the three-mile boat ride. 

Can you stay on Cape Lookout?

You betcha! There are 2 options: cabins or camping. The cabins on Cape Lookout ain’t cheap. There are 26 cabins that are between $120-180 a night (depending on capacity) and that’s for a primitive cabin (you only have to look at the photo gallery on the NPS site to see, and I think the outsides which are in pretty bad shape look better than the insides!).

Quite frankly, I think you’re better off paying for the ferry with your car if it is a 4 x 4 and can handle driving on the sand. If it can’t, you can rent one of the Kubotas, the price includes the ferry and fuel.

When you arrive at Cape Lookout with your car, you will drive off the ferry and enter Land at Great Island Camp where you will be greeted by a National Park volunteer who will check your permit/sticker. If you come without a car, they will check you into your cabin. 

Cape Lookout Fees

There is no cost to visit the park. There is a cost to access (ferry) the island unless you come by private boat. The Cape Lookout Lighthouse is not open for climbing (there is repair work to be done during the winter of 2021 and it will not re-open until 2023) but when it is open, there is a fee to climb it. You can visit the lighthouse keeper's home (it's a museum) for free.

There are various tours led by guides that have a fee. Island Express Ferry Service, the same company that runs the ferry service from Beaufort and Harker's Island also runs a beach shuttle that will take you from the Cape Lookout Lighthouse visitor's center to the beach. The current cost for that is $13.

NEW for 2021, ALL vehicles need a permit to drive on the islands. You must purchase the permit prior to arriving. Once you arrive, the NPS volunteer will give you a sticker for your car. It is $25 and is good for 1 year.

Tips for driving at Cape Lookout National Seashore

Remove the air in your tires. Once you have your permit and are checked in you need to remove the air in your tires. Have a tire gauge so you will know how much air you let out, it will depend on the vehicle (for our GMC Canyon truck we went to 21 PSI). You should keep the air lowered in your tires until you return to shore.

The ferry services have air compressors on the other end so you can refill your tires when you return (although we used our own). Everyone we saw refilling their tires on the island got stuck right before the ferry dock!

Make sure to have at least half a tank of gas. Make sure your vehicle is in good shape and has plenty of gas before you start the drive. It can take longer during the summer months. You use way more gas than you think. And you will burn oil too, so have an extra bottle in your vehicle. Always have spare water.

Other items you should carry in your car: air pump, air compressor, shovel, boards or bridges for gaining traction, oil, fire extinguisher, coolant.

Plan for motion sickness. Depending on the wind and waves, the ferry ride can get rough. Also, the sandy road gets narrow, curvy, and bumpy at times so be prepared for the car ride and make sure to bring something to alleviate that. I have been using PSI bands for more than a decade and they worked perfectly for me.

Driving in the sand can be a daunting task. Our training at White Pocket more than prepared us for the roads on the island! Stay on your toes. If you don't, the car can skid and take off unexpectedly. Make sure you maintain a certain speed. If you go too slow, you'll dig down into the sand.

Sliding is more likely if your tires are spinning in place or sliding sideways down a steep hill of loose sand. When driving on beaches with varying traction surfaces, head for firmer ground to minimize the risk of getting stuck. Try to avoid stopping on the sand. This can cause the car to sink and get stuck.

You can drive either on the beach or on the “back road.” Back road indicates the back of the beach or dunes, (weird I know!) but you cannot drive the whole length of the island on the beach. There are closed areas and you are forced to detour onto the back road.

Tips for camping at Cape Lookout National Seashore

Be Prepared. There are no stores of any kind on the island. You must bring anything you need including plenty of water and food. If weather becomes an issue, you may stay longer than expected. Cape Lookout National Seashore is an isolated area so make sure you're prepared for any emergency and bring a first aid kit.

Campfires: Fires are permitted (there are rules) but you need to bring your own firewood. Make sure to bring your own fire starter (matches can get damp). It is generally always windy so fires should be built on the beach and not in the dunes where a spark can be picked up by the wind and start a fire.

You will need a hearty tent. Bring tents with screens for protection from insects. You will need some sort of shade as well (we have a Kelty Big Shady). The weather is unpredictable. The average winds are 10-15 mph but can get up to 30-45 (the ferries will not operate in winds over 30 mph). Tie everything down and ensure your tent can handle it. It's a good idea to bring some sort of rain protection in case there are overnight showers.

Cape Lookout is pet-friendly. If you have pets, bring them as well! Cape Lookout National Seashore is pet-friendly, though for safety it's best not to let dogs run off-leash. Not all passenger ferries allow pets, so check ahead.

And hey, why not accessorize the pooch with Bark Brite's Cape Lookout leash and collar so they can be matchy-matchy?

Critters and creatures. There’s always something when you are in the great outdoors – bears in the mountains – and on these islands, it’s raccoons who are well-fed by scraps from all the fishermen but are still devious when it comes to getting into your food. Remember they have opposable thumbs and are crafty so things need to be locked down. They can and will break into tents but unlike bears, not your car!

While waiting on Mr. Misadventures to do his sunset shoot, I set myself up on the boardwalk just below the dune with a portable chair, a book, and a mosquito head net (looks like this). It is less windy on the lighthouse side of the island (the side where you can’t camp) and less wind means more bugs.

Mosquitoes, greenhead flies and deerflies (that bite), and gnats (that are just an annoyance). After the attack of mosquitoes in Crater Lake, I ALWAYS have my mosquito head net, it ain’t pretty but it does the job. We also wore insect repellent and sunscreen.

Getting to the Cape Lookout Lighthouse

If you are on the island with your car and going directly to the lighthouse from the ferry dock count for one hour, it took us 40 minutes. If you want to camp near the lighthouse (as we did) MM41 is the closest you can get to the lighthouse MM41A is right before the lighthouse and MM41B is right after the lighthouse (note the map you get from the NPS does not show an A and B, it only indicated one MM41.

There’s a big chunk of the beach between the two mile markers where the beach is completely off-limits from driving.

If you are arriving by passenger ferry, the lighthouse is on the side of the island where the ferries from Beaufort and Harkers Island drop their passengers. There are bathrooms, water, information, and a place to rent a Kubota or grab a shuttle. (However, the benefit of renting a Kabota on the mainland rather than the island is that you can load it up with your camping gear picnics beach stuff.

Otherwise, you are restricted to just whatever you can carry into bags did you do a passenger ferry.)

Things to do in the area when not camping

Cape Lookout is a great place to camp, but there are other to do besides camping. From kayaking and fishing to hiking and biking, there are plenty of ways for the whole family to enjoy themselves without having to rough it in a tent!

• Well, there's the beach of course, and all the activities associated with that! Swimming, shelling, games, reading, walking, etc.
• Kayaking: there are more than 100 miles of shoreline to explore, especially in the sound and inlets (as opposed to the open surf) they are often more accessible by kayak than any other method of exploring.
• Surfing and wind-surfing: not my cup of tea but people do it here!
• Mountain biking if you love the challenge of the sand!
• Cape Lookout Coast Guard Station. We visited the Coast Guard Station near MM43 and had lunch under some shady trees before heading to find a spot on the beach. There are historical buildings you can take a look at, but the 2 still-functioning buildings are used to house students from universities involved in dolphin and turtle studies and aren't open to the public.
• Don't forget the lighthouse, which was mentioned above. You can visit the Cape Lookout Light Station Visitor Center and Keepers' Quarters Museum (May-September).
• Birding: there are over 250 species that live or migrate through here depending on the season. We say plenty of Piping Plovers which are extremely amusing to watch as they run across the beach and search for food right after a wave hits. We also saw brown pelicans diving for breakfast in the morning.
• Last but not least is fishing, the main activity (besides camping and visiting the lighthouse) that people come for. We saw lots of that! The best seasons are spring and fall (which is why October is the high season for the ferries).  In the spring folks that are fishing are looking for: bluefish, cobia, grey trout, red drum, false albacore (albies/little tunny), and striped bass. In the fall it's Spanish mackerel, bluefish, albies/little tunny, and red drum. Late fall (Nov/Dec) it's speckled and gray trout (at the rock jetty), false albacore (albies/little tunny), redfish/red drum, and striped bass.

And you can also do photography, which of course is one of the main reasons why we were there! Cape Lookout is difficult to access, you need the ferry to get to the island so that limits the access and there is not a lot of light pollution. Perfect for Milky Way shooting (or any other astrophotography.

The lighthouse also makes a great model for full moon shoots as well. We did a sunset photoshoot at the lighthouse and we walked from our campsite. That’s the only way you can get close enough to the lighthouse as there is no way to access it with a vehicle.

How weather can impact your trip

The wind is bad, no way to sugarcoat it. The sand will get everywhere and for Mr. Misadventures it was problematic for the camera. In extreme low light conditions such as Milky Way shoot the vibration from the wind disturbs the long exposure and causes blurriness. On the other hand, we watched the stars and Milky Way through the top of our Tepui (now owned by Thule) tent and it was gorgeous!

We planned on leaving on the 3 pm ferry, but Sunday night as we were scouting our location for the sunset shoot at the lighthouse we ran into a volunteer couple whose duty is maintaining the Keepers' Quarters and they said the passenger ferries weren’t running on Monday due to high winds and a storm coming through.

So the next morning we called the ferry office when they opened at 6:30 am (there IS cell coverage on the island!) and got on an earlier ferry. That’s the thing about this set of islands the weather is very unpredictable and you have to be ready for anything.

Frequently Asked Questions about Cape Lookout that weren't covered above!

Are there trash cans on Cape Lookout? What do you do with trash?
It is pack-in-pack-out. There is one dumpster on the island, mainly for folks renting the cabins. On a busy weekend, it gets full so don't count on it, instead bring your own bags and pack it out. Remember what I said about raccoons so you also need room in your vehicle to lock down whatever trash you create.

Are there restrooms on Cape Lookout?
There are some bathhouses around the cabins. Between MM41 and 42 there is a boardwalk area that has a restroom. At the lighthouse station, there is a large set of restrooms and water. Between MM43 and 44 there is a restroom.

For using the facilities while beach camping, follow the leave-no-trace rule. Cop a squat amongst the dunes for #1. For #2 dig a cathole (imagine a litter box and you’ll get the concept) 6-8 inches deep and bury your business. You should include a hand shovel for the necessities of life in your car kit! I also brought TP Kits.

Are there wild horses on Cape Lookout?
Nope. But they are nearby on Shackleford Banks. Here is all the information about seeing wild horses there.

What to bring with you

I think I covered most of the items you will need through the course of sharing about my trip to Cape Lookout, but just to summarize and put everything in one spit, here we go:

For the car:

• Air pump/air compressor
• Shovel
• Boards or bridges for gaining traction
• Oil
• Fire extinguisher
• Coolant
• Water
• Rope for towing

For camping, besides all the usual camping gear, I recommend these additions

• Sunshade, we have a Kelty Big Shady we also have a Kelty Waypoint Tarp which we used in White Pocket, it really depends on how many people need to be covered and what you are using it for. In this case, we wanted to use it as an extra room for sitting, relaxing, eating with 2 chairs (also Kelty), our cooler, etc.
• Longer tent stakes – at least 12-inches long to go deep into the sand. Regular tent stakes may not be long enough.
• Hand shovel
• Tide chart – you need to camp above the high tide line and you should know when low and high tides take place. (Available for free at both ferry companies)

For surf fishing, the only fishing I've done is in Alaska, but I can tell you will need:

• A Coastal Recreational Fishing License (CRFL) to saltwater fish.
• There are NO stores on the island, so you will need to bring your own bait and fishing equipment.
• You will need multiple coolers of ice for your catches, there is no ice on the island.
• Most everyone we saw had some kind of rod holder, whether that was attached to their vehicle or something buried in the sand.
• Depending on the season, you could need waders!

For you:

• Sunscreen and REAPPLY
• Strong insect repellent and REAPPLY
• Tick remover kit (for your dog as well)
• A hat that provides sun protection
• Mosquito head net – you should spray it with insect repellent as well.
• Layers of clothing so as to not be too hot or cold, the weather seems to change every hour!
• Good shoes – there are A LOT of broken shells that can cut your feet. We brought our Bogs but didn't end up using them. I wore my Jambu Spirit Too Eco Vegan.

Cape Lookout National Seashore is a beautiful place to camp with plenty of opportunities for adventure. The secluded campsites and rugged terrain make it an ideal destination, but you need to plan ahead so that your trip goes smoothly. I hope that sharing the experiences I had during my 2 trips has provided some good info for you should you be planning a trip to this remote destination.

If you are extending your trip:

I have written about beautiful Beaufort and I think it makes a great home base for day trips or a great place to stay the night before your camping trip, but I did notice 2 cute bed and breakfasts that you may want to look into if you want a treat before or after your camping trip. They are Davis Bed and Breakfast (811 US-70 in Davis) less than a mile from the ferry dock and Otway House Bed and Breakfast (Otway, 368 HW 70E, technically in Beaufort, but on the edge) which is 9 miles from the ferry dock.

The beautiful and wild Cape Lookout National Seashore is a wonderful place to enjoy the outdoors and explore nature. Camping is a must! I absolutely love it there and we will be going back again and again! I hope this post has provided you with all of the information that you need. Let me know if I have missed something!

If you have any chance of getting sea sick while taking a boat, water bus, or ferry, I HIGHLY recommend PSI bands. I have used them for more than a decade, and they work! I gift them to friends all the time and keep a spare set in my glove compartment for visitors who may also get car sick.

How about you? Have you camped in the Cape Lookout National Seashore? Are you motivated to do so? Do tell!

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Just by the very nature of its size the choice of hotels in Beaufort (North Carolina, not its cousin in South Carolina!) is limited but there are options to accommodate all preferences (although not necessarily all budgets). I’ll share a list of the options for where to stay after I introduce you to The Inn on Turner.

Truth be told, I prefer the anonymity of medium to large-sized hotels. I’m an introvert and while I do enjoy people’s company and meeting others when I travel, I also like my independence and freedom. These are things I personally feel like I don’t get when staying in a small inn or bed and breakfast. From time to time when there is someplace very special, I will “break” my rule. (Like Relais Christine in Paris, or some of the Relais Chateau properties we’ve stayed at in Brittany.) The Inn on Turner is one of those special places.

I first noticed the house on our first weekend in Beaufort when we were walking around waiting for our ferry to Carrot Island. Mr. Misadventures was taking photos of the lovely historical homes and I spotted the French flag waving proudly in the gentle breeze. I immediately looked up their website to find their French connection and went down a rabbit hole of food.

Why food? Well, it turns out that despite being a lovely inn with all the appropriate inn-y things and gorgeous seaside decor, the owner of IoT are foodies. Kim and Jonathan are huge supporters of the local farmers (so much so, they were rewarded with being listed in the VisitNCFarms app), their local businesses (such as sourcing their bread from the new French bakery in town (who I had the opportunity to interview), and look cal charities (like when the host special dinner parties and donate the proceeds). When something isn’t local (like mustard and truffles) it’s likely French due to the fact that Jonathan’s mother is French and his brother has an inn in the French Pyrenees.

Only for that would I recommend the Inn on Turner, but mais oui, there is more! There is the great location. One block from downtown, walking distance to everything! They have a lovely terrace, inviting living spaces, and adorable rooms with thoughtful touches everywhere.

You will need to plan ahead, they sell out fast. But in the off-season when we stayed is still lovely and we also were able to book a single night, compared to the 2-night minimum required most of the time, although trust me, 2 nights at The Inn on Turner is not a hardship! That means 2 nights of apéro, 2 mornings with yummy breakfasts!

And also 2 opportunities to dine in with exceptional meals prepared by Jonathan. There is a charge for these dinners they are not included in the room charge. Unfortunately due to our itinerary, we were unable to personally experience a dinner, but it is something I plan to remedy real soon. Until I will just drool over the photos.

Inn on Turner is located at 17 Turner Street in Beaufort.

So if you can’t get into the Inn on Turner where can you stay in Beaufort?

Here are your options for hotels in Beaufort NC:

• Inlet Inn: bring your binoculars and if you’re lucky to have a room facing the water you could see the horses on Carrot Island while you sip coffee on your patio in the morning or wine in the evening at 601 Front St.
• Beaufort Hotel: we stayed here twice and enjoyed the ability to sit out on our patio and enjoy the scenery.
• The Beaufort Inn (not stayed in) at 101 Ann Street.
• There are listings on Airbnb for homes or condos along the water or in the historic downtown.
• You can also go with a local vacation rental listing agent like BluewaterNC (Search All Rentals and then Location = Beaufort).
• These are bed and breakfast spots: Ann Street Inn (707 Ann St); Beaufort Harbor Suites (313 Cedar St); Pecan Tree Inn (116 Queen St.); Langdon House Bed & Breakfast
  (135 Craven Street).

Things to do while staying in Beaufort:

• Have a beach day on Carrot Island, Shackleford Banks, or Cape Lookout. Enjoy the pristine beaches, collect shells, see the wild horses
• Cruise the Crystal Coast and watch out for dolphins!
• Rent a boat/kayak/canoe at Beaufort Paddle (424 Old Causeway Rd)
• Visit the Maritime Museum (315 Front St)
• Hop on a bike and do a Hungry Town Tour
• Hit the sky with Beaufort Parasail (I saw someone doing this, looks like a lot of fun!)
• Check out the historic homes in downtown
• Visit the Hammock House, claimed to be Black Beard's house (on Hammock Lane off of Fullford Street)
• Visit the Beaufort Historic Site Old Burying Ground (400 block of Ann Street)
• Do the Beaufort Ghost Walk
• If you are a fan of Nicholas Sparks (The Notebook author, swoon!) you can take a tour and see the film locations from A Walk to Remember and The Choice.
• On Saturdays, shop at the Olde Beaufort Farmers Market (300 Courthouse Square Carteret County Courthouse)
• Eat your way through downtown, then walk over the Les Ciseaux

That is just a sampling of what you can do in Beaufort. You see. You really do need more than one day and therefore a place to stay! I hope you take my recommendations into account, try out The Inn on Turner or any of the hotels in town and stay awhile!

How about you? Have you stayed at a hotel in Beaufort North Carolina? Any of the ones I suggested or the Inn on Turner? Do tell! Are you thinking about staying at the Inn on Turner or any other hotel in Beaufort? Do share!

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You can get to Shackleford Banks by ferry from 2 locations: Beaufort or Harker's Island.  After our first lovely weekend in Beaufort (North Carolina) and our encounters with feral horses on Carrot Island and the wild horses on the west end of Shackleford Banks, we headed to Harker's Island to catch the ferry to the east end of Shackleford Banks.

Harkers Island is in a region known as Down East and is a 3-hour drive from Raleigh. Its main tourist attraction is access to Cape Lookout Lighthouse and National Seashore and Shackleford Banks. Shackleford Banks is the southern-most barrier island in Cape Lookout National Seashore.

From Harker's Island, you can take a ferry to either location. There is one ferry service, Island Express Ferry Service, it is the same company we used to take the ferry from Beaufort and they are fantastic. They are the only concessioner authorized by NPS but don't let that go to their head. They are super professional, great crew, modern boats. 

We purchased tickets ($18 per person/$11 for children 3-11) for the very first ferry at 8:15 am. The same ferry goes from Harker's Island to Shackleford Banks and then onto Cape Lookout (no price difference) and you can visit Shackleford Banks first to see the horses and then head to Cape Lookout after. (Return ferries from Shackleford Banks are on the hour and half hour.) There were 40 people on the ferry, the majority of which went to Cape Lookout directly. Only 6 of us got off at Shackleford Banks.

After being dropped off we headed for the interior. About a mile in we saw a group of 6 horses. We were downwind so we were able to approach the herd easily and with a telephoto lens, Mr. Misadventures got great shots.

As we got closer 1 horse watched us as we cautiously approached.

Seeing that we were no threat and that we were keeping our distance they continued grazing on the marsh grasses. After 30 minutes of watching, we began walking towards a ridge where we spotted another group. We were hoping to see a new foal that had recently been born in the early spring.

This was a small group of 3. We spent a little bit of time with them and moved on. The entire morning we had the beautiful Cape Lookout lighthouse on the horizon as our constant companion.

Continuing on our way, we came upon a group of 5 with one resting on the ground. She wasn’t pregnant but had a yearling from last year(?) with her. They were resting so we moved along and came up to another 2 horses. They didn’t like our presence so we didn’t disturb them further.

After a couple of hours of horses, we went to the beach to look for some shells. We got a little bit of shell fever the last time and Mr. Misadventures had a picture in his mind that he wanted to take with a shell. Do you think Mr. Misadventures laid down on the wet beach to get this photo? If you guess yes you’d be right!

The real prize is sand dollars but we didn’t see any of those. We walked the beach for an hour and then turned around and headed back towards the lighthouse and had lunch on a washed-up piece of wood enjoying the quiet. There was absolutely no one!

Afterward, we headed back into the inner island to look for horses as we made our way to the ferry pick-up point.

As soon as we moved inside we came upon 4 horses grazing. At this end (east) of Shackleford Banks, there are close to 100 horses (140 total on the entire island). They are said to be descendants of Spanish shipwrecks and have lived on the island for many generations. They have survived storms and hurricanes.

They eat the native grasses on the island and have freshwater sources in the interior. Their biggest threat is humans. Humans not following guidelines and humans attempting to feed them is the biggest source of danger.

Remember to keep 50 feet/25 meters (the length of a school bus) between you and the horses, don’t block their path, and back away slowly if they seem bothered by your presence. Also, please put your camera on silent mode for your camera (test this out before you arrive) and don't use flash.

As we returned, we passed all the groups of horses that we had seen in the morning and decided that for the last hour of our walk/hike we would go back along the beach. As we came up over the dunes, we spotted a group of 6 horses grazing very close to where the edge of the dune and the beach meet with the iconic Cape Lookout Lighthouse in the background we could not have asked for a better shot with models for Instagram!

We continued walking back closer and closer to our landing point which was directly across the water from the Cape Lookout Lighthouse.  We spotted five more horses. There was one older one who was very grumpy. He kept getting annoyed with some of the other horses and running after them.

Mr. Misadventures had turned his back to walk towards me and just missed catching one of these temper tantrums with his camera! It was funny because he was much smaller than the others but kept running after them and biting their backside. The younger ones tried to kick them off. He had so much hair over his eyes that I’m not sure if he could really see what he was going for anyway!

The return ferry was right on time and as we left, the group that had just been dropped off got a front-row seat of the 6 horses at the beach. It was definitely their lucky day! They didn’t have to do the 5 miles of hiking that we did to see the horses.

They literally walked off the ferry onto the beach and saw 6 horses straight away. It was as if they were ambassadors greeting the new visitors to the island. I’m pretty sure those visitors were extra lucky the day we went and that this is not an everyday occurrence.

Tips for Visiting Shackleford Banks

Word of caution, it ALWAYS seems to be windy so head protection, clothing that blocks the wind, and sunscreen are important! We saw lots of under-dressed folks who looked pretty miserable. You might get a windburn and may have chapped lips at the end of the day.

If you are staying on the beach, shoes are less important, but if you are walking in the interior of the island, you will at minimum need hiking shoes, at best tall boots or Bogs which is what we wore (also happened to be great for walking in the water's edge while looking for shells). 

The interior is marshy and muddy (at least in the spring and winter). Even if you are able to avoid the mud, there are lots of plants that prick and sting including cacti sand spurs, and nettles. Plus you’ll want something hardy if you step in a pile. There are horse droppings on all the trails. Hard to avoid! If you are going to do a lot of hiking (like we did) I also recommend compression socks under those boots!

If you choose to wear tennis shoes they may get wet when getting off the boat and getting on the beach depending on when the tide is You can buy water boots at the gas stations surrounding Harkers Island. I saw several ladies with them and they are cute. Don't think they will last a lifetime, but they’ll get you through the mud and sand on the outer edges of the island.

Shackleford Banks is part of the Cape Lookout National Seashore, so all the usual National Park Service rules apply. There are no lifeguards on the beaches and there are strong tides. It is recommended to stay close to the shore. (Also, sorry to be a downer, this area is also known for sharks.) 

Lastly, there are no trash cans or trash service, so you must pack out what you bring in. I bring an extra bag for picking up trash as I walk through the island. 

East End vs. West End of Shackleford Banks

If seeing wild horses is your main goal, I personally think you have more opportunity on the east end as there is a larger population of horses. There are less than 20 on the west end, although I have seen horses both times I visited the west end. There are over 100 (although we saw around 20 total) on the east end. Both ends/sides of the island have beautiful beaches. The Atlantic-facing beaches have the best shells, which both ends/sides have.

On the west end (which you access by ferry from Beaufort) the bayside beach is nice. However, on the west end, if you want to access the Atlantic-facing beaches you will need to cross a marshy field. There is a trail, but that trail has droppings and prickly plants that require heartier shoes, so if spending the day on the beach is your goal and don't want to wear boots or hiking shoes, the east end (which you get to via ferry from Harker's Island) has the access you want.

Whether you take the ferry from Harker's Island to the east end of Shackleford Banks or from Beaufort to the west end of Shackleford Banks, the ferry ride is 15-20 minutes and costs $18. Beaufort is a 30-minute drive from Harker's Island. Originally we had planned to go to Harkers Island on a Thursday morning which meant leaving the house at 4 am in order to get the 8:15 am ferry.

Unfortunately, the weather made it impossible for the ferry to operate it was canceled and we pushed our trip one day. So Friday morning after spending a wonderful evening at the Inn on Turner in Beaufort we got up early and drove to Harkers Island to catch the ferry. 

Accessing Cape Lookout Lighthouse and National Seashore

There are 3 ways to get to keep Cape Lookout Lighthouse. You can take the ferry from Beaufort (via Island Express Ferry Service for $40). You can take the ferry from Harker's Island (via Island Express Ferry Service for $18).  Or you can take the car ferry from Davis to Cape Lookout (via Davis Shore Ferry Service for $85 for a vehicle under 20 feet).

The car ferry only takes 4 cars at a time and departs every 2 hours between 7 am and 3 pm. You MUST have a 4×4. Once you are there you can primitive camp (or rent a cabin), climb the lighthouse at Cape Lookout Light Station, or hang out on the beach and return on a ferry that departs every 2 hours between 8 am and 4 pm.

Here is more info on our Cape Lookout camping adventure!

Some FAQ about Shackleford Banks

• Shackleford Banks ferry: ferries can be taken from Harker's Island or Beaufort. The company that runs the ferry is Island Express Ferry Service.
• Shackleford banks camping: It is possible to camp on Shackleford Banks. However there are NO cars, so everything you need for camping needs to go on your back!
• Shackleford Banks seashells: On our first trip to Shackleford Banks I was surprised to learn that you can freely collect seashells. Shelling is better on the Atlantic-facing side than the bayside is best after a low tide.
• Shackleford Banks tours: there are boat tours available, you may not see horses unless they are close to the beach, but you may see dolphins! Island Express Ferry Service runs tours on boats from Beaufort and Harker's Island.
• Are there bathrooms on Shackleford Banks? No, there are no bathrooms! Everything is au nature, might I suggest you bring TP Kits??!! If you are taking the ferry from Harker's Island there is a public restroom. If you are taking the ferry from Beaufort, there are 2 public restrooms within walking distance of the ferry dock.
• Are dogs allowed on Shackleford Banks? Yes, dogs are allowed but MUST be on a leash at all times.
• Where is Shackleford Banks? It is an island off the coast of North Carolina (part of the barrier island system on the coast of Carteret County.). The southern-most barrier island in Cape Lookout National Seashore.
• Where to stay near Shackleford Banks? Unfortunately, the only way to stay on the island is to camp and only with what you can bring on your back!
• Can you stay on Shackleford Banks? Yes, you can camp.
• Can you camp on Shackleford Banks? Yep. Camping is free and you can camp anywhere on Shackleford Banks. You do need to pick up a (free) camping permit and complete a trip report at the Rangers Station in Harkers Island.
• Can you drive on Shackleford Banks? There are no cars on the island.
• Can you kayak to Shackleford Banks? It's a long paddle, but yes! You should know how to read and use a tide chart, but other than that it is “allowed.” However, you also need to kayak back, they are not allowed on ferries!
• What to do on Shackleford Banks? Plenty! Hike. Look for horses and other wildlife. Surf, kayak, swim and enjoy other watersports. Hang out on the beach. Collect shells.
• What to bring to Shackleford Banks? Hat, sunscreen, layers of clothing, good shoes, water, and food. Don't forget your camera!
• How long is Shackleford Banks? How big is Shackleford Banks? It is 9 miles long and 1 mile wide is its “fattest” part.
• How many horses on Shackleford Banks? There are approximately 140 horses. The NPS takes care of the horses to the extent they control birth and monitor the numbers, but they don’t feed or water them, or protect them during hurricanes.

If you have any chance of getting sea sick while taking a boat, water bus, or ferry, I HIGHLY recommend PSI bands. I have used them for more than a decade, and they work! I gift them to friends all the time and keep a spare set in my glove compartment for visitors who may also get car sick.

How about you? Have you seen wild horses in the Outer Banks? have you visited Shackleford Banks in North Carolina? Have more tips to add? Do share! 

For a visual summary of this post, check out my Shackleford Banks web story!

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And trust me, I will also be checking out the South Carolina version, but my tale today is of beautiful Beaufort North Carolina, the state's third oldest city where I found all kinds of frenchiness going on! It was our first foray into things to do, places to eat, and stay in Beaufort, but it is certainly not our last. We already have another trip planned!

Beaufort flawlessly exudes a double personality. You have the historical homes in the downtown area that have been around since the late 1700s early 1800s, with its history known by all of the residents (at least the ones we spoke with). There is a cute museum (we walked around the outside early in the morning) about the town, and a maritime museum (which we did not visit yet).

Then there are the beautiful beach homes (Bahamian like in Key West) that are along Front Street that are a mixture of very modern, sleekly luxurious, and expensive homes mixed in with a few vintage houses that have managed to hold their ground.

We came for the weekend arriving in town on Friday afternoon. We parked the truck and walked through the waterfront areas on Front Street thoroughly enjoying the lovely Bahamian-style homes with charming  Southern porches and rocking chairs. It was a clear, sunny afternoon, although a little chilly at 50 degrees. 

Most of the homes have an “extra” front yard on the water, perfectly located for sipping wine while watching the sunset!

Or taking a nap in the afternoon,

We checked into our hotel and enjoyed a picnic dinner on our terrace. A chose a hotel near the water with sliding glass doors so that we could thoroughly ventilate the room and not use the heating or air conditioning. It allowed us to enjoy our first weekend out in a traditional hotel since Valentine’s Day weekend 2020 when we went to Atlantic Beach.

I actually felt normal for the first time in a really long time (despite the fact that I wiped down every inch of the hotel room with anti-bacterial wipes!).

The next morning we woke early (as usual) and enjoyed breakfast in our room and then headed out to walk through the neighborhoods in the downtown area. The sun was just peeking out and it smiled down on the historical homes.

While walking down Ann Street, we chatted with a resident who had been living in the historical home for 56 years (and let us know her family was only the 3rd to be in The Leecraft homestead). She has a beautiful garden in which she takes immense pleasure. She gave me some fresh rosemary and invited us in for tea.

I would have loved to, but (a) The Queen (reference here) and (b) we would be late for our ferry to Carrot Island.  

Seeing Wild Horses in Beaufort

One of the best things to do while visiting Beaufort, and the draw for Mr. Misadventures, is the wild horses. There are 2 spots to see them from Beaufort: Carrot Island and Shackleford Banks. These are 2 of the 3 spots to see the wild horses in all of the Outer Banks, the 3rd spot is in Corolla/Carona.

During our weekend, we visited both spots and have plans to return again!

Carrot Island/Rachel Carson Reserve/Town Marsh/Bird Shoal

Why so many names? A question I still can't answer. Carrot Island, Town Marsh, and Bird Shoal are all parts and pieces of Rachel Carson Reserve. From Beaufort, there is only 1 tour operator that can take you to Carrot Island.

The boat ride is literally five minutes, so you can’t complain too much about the ride or the boat.  The ferry we took to Carrot Island was $10 a person ($10 for adults; $5 for children 11 and under) which I guess is reasonable when you are a couple but may begin to get a little pricey for a family of five considering its length.

We tried to get tickets online for the first ferry of the day which is 9:00 am, but were unable to do so and booked 10:00 am tickets. However, when the ferry ticket office opened just before 9:00, we asked if we could take the 9:00 instead. I think since we were the only ticketholders for 10:00 and there weren't any ticketholders for 9:00 there was no issue. We were the only ones on the boat both coming and going!

If you want to see the horses, I recommend the first or second ferry (9/10 am) or the last ones at 2:00 pm or 3:00 pm. Can you see horses at other times? Sure. But your best chance is morning and towards sunset. The ferries return on the 25th minute of every hour up to 4:25 pm (and 5:25 pm once they spring forward).

You have to select your return time when you check-in. We selected 11:25 which gave us almost 2 and a half hours. (If you decide you want to change your return, you can call them and they will try to accommodate you depending on boat capacity.)

[Later, we walked by the ferry building right before noon and the boat going over was full. The boats are small so I am guessing in high season, they sell out quickly.]

The Rachel Carson reserve was designated as a part of the North Carolina National Estuarine Research Reserve in 1985. It is part of a network of 10 undisturbed coastal areas protected for research, education, and recreation. [Besides the historic downtown and the horses which draw tourists, there are several research labs both federal (NOAA) and state (Duke University) that contribute to the local economy.]

Besides the horses, Carrot Island is a great spot to see migrating birds in the winter. 

There are approximately 40 wild horses on Carrot Island. They get their freshwater supply in the inner forest. Besides the beach area, there are 2 trails. An inner loop trail (green) and the Outer Loop (blue). They do overlap from time to time. The horses were brought to the island in the late 1940s. This makes this particular group is feral rather than wild. In the past, they have been called Banker (like Outer Banks) ponies because they are “pony-sized” horses.

The day we went a good chunk of the outer trail was underwater and muddy so we started with the inner trail where we “fresh” evidence that horses had recently been there. Truth be told, parts of the inner trail were quite muddy but I had worn my Bogs boots so it wasn't a problem. The weather was gorgeous and we had the island to ourselves. It was 50 degrees and sunny with a little breeze.

From the inner trail, we were able to see 1 horse off in the distance by itself and 3 other horses that were eating about 75 feet in front of us. We stopped and watched as they ate along the marsh. After walking the entire inner trail, Mr. Misadventures decided we needed to do the outer trail despite the mud warnings.

By the time we got back to the area where we had first seen the 3 horses they had moved closer to the beach and we were unable to follow. As they walked further away to join the fourth one we had seen on the horizon.

Two new horses came up the beach and we watched a bit. Then suddenly 2 more appeared behind us on our left and walked right by us. You must stay at least 50 feet away so we froze and let them look at us and pass. Of course, it was the perfect opportunity for Mr. Misadventures to photograph them.

One of them whinnied to the other 2 on the beach. One responded and the 2 groups of 2 slowly made their way toward each other and we continued on our way.  As the trail then got super muddy we turned back and caught the intersection with the inner trail to finish a loop.

I took a picture to illustrate the trail, but of course, because I had stayed in the spot a little too long, I got a little stuck and had to get myself out without falling – there is a reason this blog is called misadventures with Andi…

But you know, Mr. Misadventures is not exempt from misadventures. He is a master of equipment and logistics and research and has lectured me, many, many, many times about wearing the appropriate shoes, but he decided not to wear his Bogs and wore a low-cut hiking boot so he got, well, a little muddy!

We spent 2 1/2 hours on the island which is plenty to see the horses if you’re going for that reason. People also go for a day on the beach or bird watching.

Shackleford Banks

The next morning we tried the other ferry/boat operator to go to Shackleford Banks. Island Express Ferry Service is the only ferry authorized by the NPS to drop off at Shackleford Banks and the Cape Lookout lighthouse. (They do not go to Carrot Island.) The town of Beaufort is in partnership with the National Park Service and serves as the ferry gateway to the national seashore.

You can visit the islands by public ferry and you can go from Beaufort or Harker's Island (more on that later).  We were able to book the first ferry at 9 am online (they run from 9 to 4:30 until daylight savings kicks in and then it is 8 to 5:30 or 6).

We cruised to Shackleford Banks on Papa George which I’m guessing is named after the owner of the business George who very kindly had a conversation with us while we were waiting in line. He’s very knowledgeable and very customer-focused. He ought to be, he got his experience running the Staten Island Ferry!

I found his entire team to be kind and courteous. They followed safety protocols and the fleet is modern and clean. You do have other choices when it comes to getting to Shackleford Banks, but I would recommend sticking with Island Express Ferry Service.

I have been trying to research the differences between the horses on the 2 islands and it isn't crystal clear. The horses on Carrot Island were domestic when they were brought to the island, so as I mentioned, I considered them feral, while the ones on Shackleford Banks are descendants of Spanish horses washed up from shipwrecks. DNA tests have proven their ancestral link.

On Shackleford Banks, the NPS takes care of the horses to the extent they control birth and monitor the numbers, but they don't feed or water them, or protect them during hurricanes. 

This is a tough breed that has survived hundreds of years on this island facing the Atlantic Ocean (while the Carrot Island horses are certainly tough, the island is protected by the sound it faces) and they are much better off using their natural instincts and survival skills during storms than they would be if humans helped them out.

One thing that surprised me was that people were buying or bringing bags to collect shells. Given its ocean-facing position, there are tons and tons of shells on the beaches and as we walked a mile on the beach after we first landed Mr. Misadventures found a giant conch shell in pristine condition which I delicately wrapped up and put in my backpack. 

Personally, I got over shell collecting as a child although I do have a few that I’ve collected along the way in places Mr. Misadventures and I have traveled to, but I was super excited when we found that conch. I guess I rejoined the shell collecting tribe. I didn't gather additional shells because I didn't want to haul them, I will bring a bag for a future trip!

A little over a mile in we cut into the dunes. The island was dryer than Carrot Island and only a tiny bit of muddy here and there in the center. This time Mr. Misadventure wore his Bogs so it was no problem to walk into the marshy areas to seek out the horses. About another half-mile in we came upon 5 horses grazing.

Shackleford Banks is 8 miles in length. Most people attack it by doing 2 different trips: Beaufort to Shackleford Banks to enjoy the southern part of the island and then Harker's Island to Shackleford Banks to access the East End (across from Cape Lookout).

We are going to do the second part during our next trip to Beaufort coming up in a few weeks. Ideally, you will want to be on the earliest ferry possible to have the best opportunity to see horses (or at sunset). They graze around the island and drink from water sources in the forest. 

There are around 130 horses on Shackleford Banks that live in 30 harems throughout the entire island. You just need to be patient and time!

Please note all photos were taken with the zoom lens You should not approach the horses you should maintain a distance of 50 feet.

After 2-and-a-half hours we headed back to Beaufort. We absolutely cannot wait to return and spend more time on Shackleford Banks! The beach is pristine, uncrowded, and full of shells! With 130+ horses opportunities abound for photography and the scenery is just gorgeous!

Here is our return trip to Shackleford Banks for more wild horses and shelling!

Where We Ate in Beaufort

Mr. Misadventures and I aren't quite there yet when it comes to eating in restaurants; however, Beaufort has a lot to offer, in particular spots with outdoor waterside dining along with (potentially) great restaurants throughout downtown. So in terms of what to eat, I am going to stick a pin here and say, stay tuned!

Black Sheep Pizza

While on Carrot Island we walked 4 miles on the island and 3 miles wandering around town before our ferry, so by the time we returned we were famished. We headed next door to Black Sheep Beaufort, a woodfire pizza company. We do not eat a lot of pizza so when we do, we are super picky about it.

Black Sheep gets 2 giant thumbs UP. We devoured a Bishop (with arugula pesto, roasted cherry tomatoes, roasted garlic, ovalini mozzarella, parmesan, and pecorino finished with dressed arugula, Serrano ham, and shaved parmesan) and a Speckenwolf (which was olive oil base topped with Speck prosciutto, mushrooms, red onion, and mozzarella cheese finished with garlic, parsley, and oregano).

We enjoyed them immensely in the sunshine and fresh air!

Les Ciseaux Bakery

If Beaufort wasn't already wonderful enough, a French bakery recently opened up! We went to visit Les Ciseaux and spoke with the new baker Simon (originally from Lille, France), and his business partner Matt. They are only open 3 days a week: Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, and only have viennoiserie on Saturday – bread on all 3 days.

We chatted for a while with the intent to buy croissants but were so excited to talk to people we forgot to buy the croissants. When we went back an hour later (I felt bad about not buying anything, after all, they are a new business) but there was a huge line to buy bread! 

I did contact Matt to ask some follow-up questions:

I would love a tiny bit of background on Simon. He is from Lille, I remember that, but I’d love to know where he studied, why did he decide to be a baker, and how he came to be in the US?

Simon grew up just outside of Lille but also went to school in Tournai, Belgium. For about four years, he also lived in Saint-Nazaire in Brittany. Simon’s family still lives in the area surrounding Lille.

Simon had been working in an advertising and design career for a company in Canada and wanted to make a major shift away from the corporate world. He had stopped working in January 2020 with plans to work on my real estate team as the marketing coordinator. Then, Covid threw a wrench in the works.

The idea of opening a bakery came during the lockdown when he was baking for friends and neighbors. Simon is a self-taught baker. He decided to name the bakery Les Ciseaux after the neighborhood in Boëseghem where he grew up in. Coincidentally, before our shop was a bakery, it had been a hair salon for ages. I’m calling it a serendipitous occurrence because we picked the name before finding the location.

Why Beaufort? Why did you decide to open up a bakery here?

It’s my fault that Simon is in Beaufort! I grew up in this area and almost all of my family is still in the area. Simon and I both immigrated to Canada in 2014 and met in 2017. I was the organist/choirmaster at the Anglican Cathedral in Kelowna, British Columbia and Simon was working for an advertising company in Saskatoon.

In 2018, I decided to move back to be near family. Simon was able to get his visa to follow and in 2019, he moved here. We got married in May 2019 and had plans to have a formal wedding service at St. Andrew’s Episcopal Church in Morehead City (where I am an organist now) in May 2020, but had to cancel because of the Queen!

How did you choose your bread/pastry selections on your menu?

Simon chose the menu based on the staples of a traditional boulangerie. They're all things he enjoys baking. We’ve got a limited menu of several breads (pain de campagne – both traditional and a multigrain version, rye bread, baguettes, le meteil with walnuts) and three pastry choices (croissants, pain au chocolat, pain aux raisins).

We also serve Counter Culture single-origin, organic coffee (a coffee roaster from Durham, NC), and have some other merchandise sourced from France and other places. We’ve got some new menu items in the works but they’re in the testing phase now. Hopefully, we’ll be adding at least fougasse, kouign amann, and madeleines this summer. 

Ingredients. Are you using any French ingredients? Any other locally sourced ingredients?

All of our bread is organic and naturally leavened. So, they’re all, technically, sourdoughs but only the rye has a sour flavor. Our plain pain de campagne is only flour, water, and salt. No fillers, no chemical yeasts, etc. We get most of our flour from Lindley Mills in Graham, NC. Our rye flour comes from various farms. We’ve purchased a flour mill to have in the bakery, so when it arrives, we’ll be milling some of our own flour.

For our pastries, we get our butter from Normandy. The salt is hand-harvested in Guérande, Brittany. These are some of the few non-organic things we use.

Bravo les Ciseaux and à la prochaine! 

Where We Stayed in Beaufort

We stayed 2 nights in the Beaufort Hotel (2440 Lennoxville Rd) which is right on the water (although our room was not). We felt they followed safety protocols and we appreciated our room, the sliding glass door, and the 2nd-floor terrace where we enjoyed most of our meals and travel champagne ;-). 

Parking is free but a bit of a pain, the lot is across the street and down half a block. They are supposed to have a good restaurant, which we might try out another time when the Queen has left town for good.

While walking through the historic district we stumbled on a beautiful home that lured us in with its French flag. Turns out it’s an inn. I’ll tell you all about it after my next trip to Beaufort as we are staying there for a night! (Here is that post from our stay at the Inn on Turner.)

Beaufort North Carolina (and not Beaufort South Carolina!) you are certainly a coup de foudre (love at first sight) for the Misadventures family! Your town is adorable and the residents take pride and care in its flourish and controlled development. The attention to detail you put into your homes is such a joy!

Beaufort, we look forward to exploring more, tasting more, and getting to know you better. Of course, I couldn't let your name escape me, its obvious Frenchness had me scurrying to research its origins. Beaufort was originally known as Fishtown because of the fishing activities that took place (and you will find some businesses in town still honor that name) but was then named for Henry Somerset, Duke of Beaufort.

The Duke of Beaufort may have been British, but there are definite French ties to the name. Beaufort refers to a cahteau in Champagne, France known as Montmorency-Beaufort). It is the ONLY current dukedom to take its name from a place outside the British Isles. (Fun fact: there is also an Association of Beaufort sister cities that was created in 1995 when Beaufort-en-Vallee, France hosted the first reunion of Beauforts.) Anyway, there is STILL a living Duke Beaufort today (in the UK). And there is a Duke de Beaufort in France – which has ties to Henry IV and an illegitimate son.

Back to Beaufort!

It truly was the perfect weekend (We visited the first weekend of March.) and we have already planned our next one. The high season is Easter through October, so we are cutting it close by visiting again a few days before the big bunny does.

And we will be back again in the fall too and given that we have only been in North Carolina for 1 year I am sure it is a town we will return to over and over again. And yes, we will get to Beaufort South Carolina too, although I am not sure they can win me over after experiencing Beaufort North Carolina!

How about you? Have you been to Beaufort North Carolina? Do you have any recommendations to share? Do tell!

Beaufort is located on North Carolina's Crystal Coast in Carteret County. It is 2 hours and 45 minutes from Raleigh. 3 hours from Nags head if you are visiting the Outer Banks.

If you have any chance of getting sea sick while taking a boat, water bus, or ferry, I HIGHLY recommend PSI bands. I have used them for more than a decade, and they work! I gift them to friends all the time and keep a spare set in my glove compartment for visitors who may also get car sick.

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Once again, the best place to see bears in North Carolina is NOT the Great Smoky Mountains National Park but rather this refuge located in a region where the highest concentration of black bears in ALL of the United States lives! The Pungo Unit is located within the Albemarle-Pamlico Peninsula in Eastern North Carolina. There are an estimated 8,000 bears in this area. Mr. Misadventures and I have been there together over a dozen times (and Mr. Misadventures has been there solo tons more, he visits nearly every week). During those trips together, we have only not seen a bear once.

And of course, there is PLENTY of other wildlife as well. In particular, over 100,000 tundra swan pass through here on their migratory paths in January and February. Plus there are lots of other bird species along with river otters, deer, turtles, and more.

The Pungo Unit of Pocosin Lakes NWR is a 12,350-acre plot of land dedicated to providing a safe haven for migratory birds and waterfowl. 

You will notice I didn't say bears. More on that later.

What can you see at the Pungo Unit of Pocosin Lakes National Wildlife Refuge?

There is something to see in Pungo all year round. We've lived in Raleigh for one year now and have been every month.

Check out the Birds

During the wintertime, you can expect to see an astronomically large number of waterfowl — if you visit in December or January, you'll likely see over 100,000 of the tundra swans. The species you can expect to see include the following:

• Tundra swans
• Snow geese
• Northern shovelers
• Ducks: Wood ducks, Teal ducks, Mallard ducks, Pintail ducks
• And so many others that we couldn't possibly list them all!

I would argue that the tundra swans are one of the most beautiful species to spy. They can grow up to a staggering 52 inches tall with an extremely large wingspan. However, they tend to be more on the nervous side. So, when you're viewing, just be quiet and calm; you're bound to get some amazing pictures with a long lens!
Tundra swans are usually seen in huge flocks here. Whether it's on the fields or the various ponds, they're usually chilling. (Although, if you watch them for long enough, you'll start to see some fights breaking out!). Oh, and they are LOUD!

The roads through the refuge form a grid pattern and during the winter when all these wonderful birds are visiting the refuge the inner roads in the grid are closed. You can park and walk, but you will not be able to drive through.

For the rest of the year, the birdlife is on “rotation.” There is information about the various bird seasons (along with other wildlife) on the refuge's website. 

The Bear

As for the bears, you can see them all year. The refuge is surrounded by acres upon acres of forest. This, as well as the crops growing around it, make for a very bear-friendly habitat. Typically, they avoid humans but you still shouldn't startle them. After all, they are the kings of the forest!

In the winter, they are dormant, but they are still out and viewable in the morning until about 10 and at sunset (they are actually more active at night). In the spring, moms with cubs emerge (so be careful, mommies can be dangerous!). You can see the bears through most of the day, although early morning is still the best. Through the summer they much a lot on the crops leading up to the fall when the harvests take place and the fields become a smorgasbord to them! 

You can see them from the road if you want, they are visible with the naked eye and binoculars are handy. We often spot a bear, parked, and then follow (at a distance of at least 25 yards) on foot. You can also walk on trails or through the forest. The bears have dens in the forest and also hang out in the trees. They eat berries, soybeans, and peanuts (plenty in Eastern NC). A portion of the land on the refuge is designated cropland. Cooperative farmers cultivate the fields and a portion of the crops are left for the animals, including the bears. So your best chance of finding bears is near the fields. Depending on the season, the bears will be easier to spot than at other times (for example right before they harvest the crops the bears are nearly impossible to see unless they pop their head up – which they do!).

The Dark Side

I feel like I can't write about Pungo without shining the spotlight on the dark side of the life of a bear in this area. The refuge is a very sacred place to the Misadventures family. Since our first encounters with bears in the Grand Teton National Park and Yellowstone National Park, we have been enamored by finding bears in the wild. We liked bears before, Mr. Misadventures identifies with lots of bear “characteristics” and if I get hangry, watch out. We have bear things in our house and have always appreciated them. Seeing them in the wild is very spiritual for us. We knew when we moved to North Carolina that we would see them in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park but had no idea that 3 hours from Raleigh we would be able to see bears all the time.

However the more we explore this refuge the more we have learned about it, or rather the surrounding area. And by writing about it, maybe one day there will be a call to action to stop the practices that needlessly kill these bears. Granted 12,350-acres is a lot of land, but surrounding that land is 100,000-acres of private hunting land. I not fundamentally against hunting, I know that is often needed to control populations, that it can be an enjoyable sport, and as a meat-eater, I have no leg to stand on, but after meeting several local visitors, photographers, bird watchers, fishermen and hearing their stories a pattern has emerged. Local bear hunting guides get $8000 to help a “New Yorker” (their words, not mine, it is likely the hunters are just “northerners”) hunt a bear. The guides illegally bait the bears or harass them with dogs to lure or chase them off the refuge. Often the bear is “not big enough” for the hunter and the bear carcasses are dumped in the canals (again illegally) in favor of getting a bigger male.

As the area in Eastern North Carolina is rural and there is very little work. Local guides can make a good chunk of money in a short period of time following these illegal practices, so there is zero incentive to stop. There have been stings in the past to stop this, but it still happens. And it breaks my heart.

Other Wildlife

There are plenty of turtles in the spring and summer, we found fewer of them in the fall unless it is a sunny day and I didn't see any in the winter. The river otters are way harder to find. You have to approach by foot and be willing to walk a long way to follow them, but we have seen them in the summer and fall.

Chase the Sun

I suggest that you try to get down to the Pungo Unit before the sun rises or late afternoon towards sunset to get shots of the wildlife. Sometimes it does get busy around dusk, the locals seem to all hop in their trucks and take a sunset ride to catch the bears heading for the fields. But don't let that stop you from witnessing the magic. We've seen it get a bit busy during the weekends in winter when folks come out to see the swan, but it is NOTHING like the crowds you may get on the Outer Banks for the mountains.

All the Recreational Opportunities

A pocosin is freshwater wetlands with sandy peat soils. A swamp or marsh. The word comes from the Algonquian Native American language means “swamp on a hill.” They have forests that sit on top of these marshes which makes it more interesting to access than tromping around in a swamp! The Pungo Unit has a lot of trees and canals and makes for a fabulous spot to table in hobbies such as bird watching and wildlife photography. There is simply an endless amount of interesting species to discover! Year-round bear watching and winter waterfowl observation are the two most popular pastimes enjoyed here. But of course, there is plenty of bird (and even snake) species to go around. Seriously, you won't be able to tear yourself away from the sights long enough to even think about going home!

We like to head to the observation platforms that give us views of Pungo Lake (it is a great spot for lunch). We've also walked up Duck Pen trail to the blind that was constructed for viewing the wintering birds. Word of caution, there are a TON of wasp nests, not such a big deal in winter, but terrible every other season (I am not sure why the folks that maintain the refuge don't keep them out of the blinds!).

Where is the Pocosin Lakes National Wildlife Refuge Pungo Unit?

The Pocosin Lakes National Wildlife Refuge stretches across several counties: Hyde, Washington, and Tyrrell. From the Raleigh area, we take Highway 64 (just like you would for Alligator River). Once you arrive in Plymouth, you take a right onto NC-32 South (there is a Shell station on this corner).

Note: There are NO facilities in the refuge, so if you think you will need a bathroom stop, stay on 64 for about another mile as there is a rest area with very clean restrooms. Stop there and head back the way you came on 64, and turn left onto NC-32 South. In about 5 miles, turn left onto NC-45 S/NC-99 S. Continue for 11 miles and you will come up to a sign on the corner for the refuge.

From here you have 2 choices. Turn left onto Pat's Road. You'll pass some farmhouses that then turn into fields that then become the refuge. Or go straight onto Refuge Road until you come to Van Staalduinen Road. Turn left. You'll pass a refuge maintenance office and then fields and the refuge. 

In summary, how to get to Pocosin Lakes National Wildlife Refuge Pungo Unit

• Highway 64 East from Raleigh
• In Plymouth, right on NC-32 S
• Left on NC-45 S/ NC-99 S
• Left on Pat's Road OR left on Van Staalduinen Road

There is an official map (pdf) that does a pretty good job of indicating the roads.

Here is our map (from Gaia) of the roads and grids:

The main roads are accessible by any type of car, but the inner roads may be inaccessible in wet weather unless you have a 4×4.

What to Bring

There is no food or restaurants once you pass Plymouth so consider packing a picnic (which is what we do) or eating before you arrive. There are no parking areas and you will be stopping or parking on the side of the road. There are also no trash cans (logical) except one at the entrance, so be prepared to pack your trash out.

• Picnic supplies, including a garbage bag
• Water
• Binoculars
• Hat and layers
• Sunscreen and bug spray (there are mosquitoes! and ticks!)
• Don’t forget binoculars for the kids! (also prepare them for the day with this book from Nat Geo)
• Bear Spray. If you are wandering away from your car into the woods, you may want a can of bear spray. You can not fly with it, so if you are not local, you may want to pick up some at REI or Cabela’s.

Now you are all set to go see the bears!

How about you? Have you been to the Pungo Unit of Pocosin Lakes National Wildlife Refuge? If yes, I’d love to hear about your experience! If not, have I enticed you to check it out? Do tell!

For a visual summary of this post, check out my Pungo Unit web story!

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There are 2 locations where you can easily see them and if you visit at the right time of day you are [nearly] guaranteed. I am starting with the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge because it is the most accessible. It is a great day trip from Raleigh or the perfect stop on the way to the Outer Banks.

Mr. Misadventures and I moved to the Raleigh area in February of last year and we have already been to the refuge a dozen times. Mr. Misadventures has been there even more on solo trips during the week. Our visits have thus far taken place in late spring, summer, fall, and early winter so we have almost seen all the seasons and it is a really great spot for observing all kinds of wildlife, above and beyond the black bears.

The first time we visited the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge, we didn't realize just what a gold mine it was. Mr. Misadventures was researching the various types of wildlife in North Carolina that he could photograph. He was already aware of bears and elk in the mountains and wanted to learn more. It was at that time he discovered this secret paradise and we made our first trek over from Raleigh.

The refuge is so extraordinarily big that we didn't even realize what we had stumbled across. It is a whopping 152,000-acre plot on North Carolina's coast located right off of Highway 64 on the way to the Outer Banks. But the sign for the refuge is so nondescript that if you blink you miss it and the opportunity to see the bears!

The History of Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge

Before the NWR was founded, the swamps, forests, and wetlands in this area were dubbed “no man's land.” Even the locals didn't venture into its murky depths very often. However, as time passed, small settlements began to form along the coastline. These later became Manns Harbor, Swan Quarter, Engelhard, and Stumpy Point. If you know this area at all, you'll know that they're still there today (even though they're only 10 miles from each other, they've stayed separate, small communities). 

We have driven through Swan Quarter a couple of times and there are other wildlife refuges nearby. In addition, Swan Quarter is also one of the 2 ferry terminals (along with Cedar Islands) for getting in and out of Ocracoke Islands in the Outer Banks. Aside from these little pocket-sized towns, the area was so desolate that the Air Force used a section of the wetland as a military bombing range in 1959! Fun fact: it's still there today.

Conservationists started to notice the landscape in the late 1970s. They suddenly realized that it had a very bizarre and interesting aggregate of habitats — forests, marshes, and wetland. Upon further investigation, they realized that it was home to various species that were otherwise insanely hard to find on the East Coast. These species lived in this region because of the unique pocosin habitat (i.e. “swamp on a hill”) which is a bespoke kind of wetland.

This resulted in the establishment of Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge in 1984. Their mission was (and still is) to protect this wondrous habitat and all the natural species that live there, including the bears and tiny population of re-introduced red wolf.

What Can You See and Do At Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge?

Animals, lots and lots of animals and birds! Since the refuge is massive you can return every day (or as Mr. Misadventures does, every week) for a very long time and still not see or explore everything. However, here are some of the things I recommend that you do if you only have one day to visit.

Head to The Visitor Center

[NOTE: Closed at the moment due to COVID-19.] IF you have kids, this is the best place to start. I say that as the Visitor's Center is actually 35 minutes away from the refuge (location: 100 Conservation Way, Manteo, NC 27954), so if your main goal is to see wildlife, you don't need to visit here. Otherwise, you can get to know the surroundings a bit better this way and map out what your favorite spots might be. Inside, there are interactive exhibits, audio tracks, visual programs, and you can even experience a simulated airplane ride over the area. 

If you are looking for a map of the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge, you can get one at the Visitor Center, BUT you can also get one at the entrance off of Highway 64. They have them available as leaflets where the trail starts. The maps are also available online on the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service site (there are 3 useful maps at the bottom of the page, the tearsheet (pdf) is what you will get at the refuge entrance.).

Perhaps one of the best things (in my opinion) is the fact that you won't just learn about the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge, you'll learn about all 11 NWRs in North Carolina. 

Head Down The Murphy Peterson Wildlife Drive

Exploring this 15-mile collection of gravel tracks will give you the best chance of spotting wildlife. You might see some of the 250 different bird species that live in or pass through the refuge including wild turkeys and waterfowl, a variety of turtles and snakes, river otters, black bears, and if you're extremely lucky, a red wolf.

Certain tracks are closed off depending on the season (for example when certain birds or migrating through) and many are impassable in wet weather unless you have a 4×4. However, a large portion of them are accessible throughout the year, and it's a great opportunity for a family outing to see wildlife from the safety of your vehicle. [More ways to see wildlife below!]

There are tram tours offered every Saturday during the summer, and once a month during spring, fall, and winter (which did not happen in 2020 due to COVID-19). But to tell you the truth, I think it's best to do this drive in your own car.

The Best Time and Place to See Bears

This is based on our experience. We have the bears to be most active in the early morning (before 10) and just before sunset. During the day they are less active and spend their time in the woods where you will not see them (unless you wear camouflage and go into the woods). A portion of the land on the refuge is designated cropland. Cooperative farmers cultivate the fields and a portion of the crops are left for the animals, including the bears. So your best chance of finding bears is near the fields. Depending on the season, the bears will be easier to spot than at other times.

Remember, these are wild bears, all rules apply. Keep your distance (25 feet is the law), don't corral or block their path. We carry bear spray with us because we get out of the car. Should you find yourself in an uncomfortable situation (bears have terrible eyesight), make a lot of noise. Never get between a female sow and her babies. Bears in North Carolina don't really hibernate in the strictest sense of the term. They usually begin to enter their winter dens in mid-December, although it can be as early as November and come out in late March or early April. But in eastern North Carolina the sows den in January to have their cubs and the males may not den at all, it depends on the weather and scarcity of food.

Walk on the Sandy Ridge Wildlife Trail

There are 2, 1/2-mile wildlife trails. Sandy Ridge Wildlife Trail is wilder than Creef Cut Trail. It is a one-way trail (1-mile round trip). It follows part of the paddling trail. The water is full of reptiles and an alligator or two. On a quiet day, you may hear red wolves howling, although not likely ones “in the wild.” Red wolves were reintroduced into this area in the 1980s, but they look so much like coyotes (which are deemed a pest) that their endangered population is still not very large and there are about 30 red wolves in captive breeding facilities, including one near the refuge.

Just an f.y.i. for pet owners, dogs are allowed on leash on this trail.

Kayak Along Milltail Creek

You can grab a paddling map from the visitor center and then set off on one of the color-coded creeks. There are 15 miles to explore (spanning across Alligator River, Sawyer Lake, and others) and kayaking is the best way to spy a river otter, types of waterfowl, and hundreds of other amphibians and reptile species.

Take Part In a Guided Tour

[NOTE: Not available at the moment due to COVID-19.] During the spring and fall months, you can take part in a “Red Wolf Howlings” event on a Saturday. You'll learn all about the red wolf, and then your group will head into the depths of the forest to (hopefully) hear the species howl (although as I mentioned previously it is likely a captive wolf you will hear as real sightings are extremely rare).

Take Wildlife Photos

This is the main reason we visit the refuge over and over. Observation and taking photos. In addition, at the visitor center (when they are open), you can reserve a photography blind for free (remember to reserve it beforehand). This means you can safely and inconspicuously observe the wildlife and take stunning pictures to build up your portfolio (or just for fun). (I honestly do not know what they are doing at the moment due to the pandemic as I can't find a way to reserve a blind online.)

How to Plan a Trip to Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge

This is a really great day trip from Raleigh (3 hours from central Raleigh) or a nice stopover in the morning on the way to the Outer Banks or an afternoon stop on the way back from Raleigh. If you are visiting on a day trip from Raleigh or on the way to the Outer Banks, the town of Plymouth is a great spot to fill up on gas. In addition, there is a nice rest stop with extremely clean restrooms. There is also information about the area including wolves and bears. There are NO facilities in the refuge, this will be the last bathroom stop.

There is no food or restaurants once you pass Plymouth (of course there are great restaurants in Outer Banks, but the refuge is before the Outer Banks) so consider packing a picnic (which is what we do) or eating before you arrive. There is a small parking lot and information stand before you enter the refuge. After that, there are no other parking areas (except at the Milltail Creek kayak dropoff point) and you will be picnicking on the side of the road. There are also no trash cans (logical) except one at the entrance, so be prepared to pack your trash out.

For your drive to Alligator River, you will stay on Highway 64 the entire route, once you pass Plymouth, you have just about an hour to go. You'll see a sign for “Buffalo City Road” which is a kayak trail and then a sign for Manteo, then you will see a sign for Milltail Road and the Creef Cut Wildlife Trail – blink and you will pass it!

What to Bring

• Picnic supplies, including a garbage bag
• Water
• Binoculars
• Hat and layers
• Sunscreen and bug spray (there are mosquitoes! and ticks!)
• Don't forget binoculars for the kids! (also prepare them for the day with this book from Nat Geo)
• Bear Spray. If you are wandering away from your car into the woods, you may want a can of bear spray. You can not fly with it, so if you are not local, you may want to pick up some at REI or Cabela's.

I started with Alligator River for where to see bears as it is more accessible and more family-friendly than the other options, which I am attacking next. Mr. Misadventures and I have already been here over a dozen times and it never gets old. Each season brings new things to see and at least 3/4 of the time we see bears! The times we didn't were usually in the middle of the day and there are still plenty of things to enjoy. The refuge is only 45 minutes from Nags Head and an hour from Kitty Hawk so it absolutely can be incorporated into any Outer Bank trip!

Go see the bears!

How about you? Have you been to Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge? If yes, I'd love to hear about your experience! If not, have I enticed you to check it out? Do tell!

For a visual summary of this post, check out my Alligator River NWR web story!

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One of the things I was most looking forward to when I knew we would be moving to North Carolina was fall in the mountains and the opportunity to be there for leaf-peeping when the autumn trees turn from vibrant green to beautiful shades of orange, red, and yellow. Thankfully while The Queen (reference here) screwed up a lot of things this year, Mother Nature seems to be thriving, and getting outside to enjoy it is one of the few safe things we can do! And there is no better spot than Black Mountain, about 25 minutes outside of Asheville.

In fact, if it hadn’t been for The Queen we would have been enjoying the coast of Brittany (France) rather than heading to the mountains! But I still believe everything happens for a reason so stumbling upon Greybeard Rentals and finding Outside Inn was meant to be. In another stroke of “luck”, the original cabin I had my eye on was unavailable so the smart folks suggested this adorable cottage. It was like they were our mountain cabin fairies because the property had the Misadventures name written all over it!

Mid-Century Modern meets kitsch with fun French highlights! Who would have thought!

I didn’t take pictures of every room because Greybeard Rentals does a fantastic job of showing off the mountain homes on their website.

As someone who loves to do macro photography, this place is candy, everywhere I turned there was something I wanted to take a picture of! There were cool features everywhere you turned from garden gnomes, vintage signs, cool bikes outside and books, knick-knacks, posters, and other decorative items throughout the cottage!

The quality of the furnishings in Outside Inn was top notch. Excellent rugs, good furniture (some of it appears to be original MCM), good floors, and wonderful tile work in the kitchen and bathrooms. Although usually something I don’t care much about, we have news junkies with everything happening in the world and I appreciated the large TVs!

If I had to pick one thing to complain about because otherwise, you wouldn’t believe me when I said this place is perfect, it’s that there are light switches everywhere, but you can’t be mad for long because when you find the right one, there is no way to get it wrong with adorable labels like this, some with a twist of humor.

Outside Inn has 3 bedrooms: a master bedroom, a second guest bedroom (aka Mr. Misadventures' photo equipment room); and a kid's room (aka our clothes room!) which has a super cute window feature in the bunk bed.

We arrived on Thursday late afternoon (they have a 4:00 check-in) and although we anticipated it to be extraordinarily clean, and it was, we entered wearing masks and opened all the windows to ventilate the air while also turning off the A/C. Given that a third of this house is outdoors, hence Outside Inn, a lot of the space was already aired out.

We brought our own sheets which we placed directly over the sheets on the bed in the master. We brought our own towels as well. We also brought all our own food and drinks for our 3-night stay.

Black Mountain’s little downtown is cute, but we still aren’t comfortable with restaurants at the moment so we will have to partake in the future. We chose our rental here because the town is a little more manageable than Asheville, at least at the moment. Asheville is great for breweries and restaurants, but for now, that is not a scene we are interested in. The point of travel for the Misadventures family right now is to stay local and be safe. We drive, bring our own things, and stay in a stand-alone accommodation. We were able to get all that with our Greybeard Rentals.

I worked on Friday while Mr. Misadventures scouted leaf-peeping photo locations. Throughout the day I moved around the cabin with my laptop and every conference/video call I had people remarked on how cool the decor was in my background! There was just as much bandwidth as we have it home (which is a lot plus Mr. Misadventures is an ex-network engineer so he checks this stuff!).

Saturday morning we headed to the Blue Ridge Parkway for more scouting, passing the Linville Caverns and the trail for Linville Falls as we headed to our target, the Linn Cove Viaduct. Door-to-viaduct was 1 hour and 10 minutes. We were scouting for the upcoming leaf-peeping opportunities which are plenty in the greater Asheville area. 

The leaves are already starting to change, but they are not quite there yet!

We were also 25 minutes from Asheville.  Our Black Mountain home rental was a great home base which is why Greybeard Rentals has so many properties there along with Black Mountain, Montreat, and of course, Asheville. 

After a day of scouting, we enjoyed the last warmth of the sun with a glass of wine on the little deck (outside of the huge outdoor room) and started plotting our next trip. I was regretting not booking an entire week.

The thing I like about Greybeard Rentals is their collection of mountain homes, cottages, and cabins is highly curated. The team that runs this company are locals who have lived in this region for years, they know the good stuff and they know what guests want. Including a loaf of freshly made bread which they leave as a welcome gift. In our case pumpkin. And for 2 low-carb-lifestylers who don’t eat a lot of sweets, we devoured it like crack! Of course, pumpkin bread may be par for the course for most carb-eating folks, but for us that touch alone made it feel like a vacation!

The house is SPARKLING clean. Greybeard Rentals take its housekeeping operations seriously. I felt comfortable and confident inside the cottage. One less thing to worry about.

Sure you can find mountain properties on the major vacation home platforms, and yes the owners may be local, but you aren’t supporting a local business by using it. Of course, the owner benefits and the local businesses when you stay, but I like the feeling of piling on and staying local. Although some of Greybeard Rentals properties can be rented through Airbnb, it is only a portion and you will get the best rate through their website and in slower seasons, they run exclusive web specials and discounts on their website. They have a newsletter too, so make sure you subscribe!

We had a leisurely Sunday morning and headed for home at around 8 (we’re early risers). Check out is at 10:00 so we didn’t have to rush.

Tips for planning a trip to the North Carolina mountains:

• Plan ahead, especially if you are wanting to visit during peak leaf-changing season.
• Think off-season. In my opinion, a mountain or lake retreat is wonderful at any time of the year. And while I get that fall is amazing, Mr. Misadventures and I enjoy being in places when it's less crowded. And Greybeard Rentals has great off-season pricing for their Black Mountain home rental properties. Well, not only Black Mountain but also all through the area and into Asheville!
• Head to the parkway and parks early. As usual Mr. Misadventures and I had these areas all to ourselves until about 10. And everyone wants that sunset shot so the overlooks get crowded. Try sunrise instead!

Tips for staying in a cabin in the North Carolina mountains (during the Age of the Queen):

• If you have the space in your car, pack your own sheets and towels.
• Bring disinfecting wipes to wipe down counters and surfaces.
• When you arrive open all the windows to air out the property.
• Most cabins will provide you a limited amount of paper products, so remember to bring extra paper towels, toilet paper, etc. It will be cheaper than buying locally.
• If you are going to use the dishwater, drinkware, and silverware wash them before using them.
• Bring your own food and drinks. Don’t forget the seasoning spices! If you are staying in Black Mountain, there is a rather large grocery store (Ingles) which we stopped into to restock our wine (vacation mode you know). I’d rather go to a larger store where it is easier to social distance than a small space.

I want to thank Greybeard Rentals and the owners of Outside Inn for so generously sponsoring our stay, it’s not the most obvious thing to do given the crisis and the state of travel and tourism at the moment, so their generosity was appreciated more than usual. If you are thinking of coming to the western North Carolina mountains, please do consider renting a mountain cabin, cottage or home from Greybeard Rentals.

How about you? Have you been to the North Carolina mountains? Do you enjoy leaf-peeping and mountain cabins? Do tell! Where do you like to travel in the autumn? Do share!

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Disclosure: This is a sponsored collaboration with Expedia. As always all opinions are my own.

Mr. Misadventures and I both have nomadic blood or like my favorite Halloween costume growing up, gypsy genes. We are both army brats who grew up moving often and living in different parts of our own country and the world. We both choose careers at global companies with lots of international travel and we both love to travel in our free time. Heck, the 14 years I lived in the San Francisco Bay Area before I started dating Mr. Misadventures I lived in 11 different places! My grandmother used to say she wrote my address in pencil because she knew I wouldn’t be in any one place long.

As a couple, Mr. Misadventures and I have lived in the Bay Area and France, spent 18 months on the road in an RV exploring the United States, 6 months living in the RV in Portland while thinking about settling down in the Pacific Northwest, 2 years in Phoenix settling back into a non-RV life, and then we picked up and moved to the Raleigh-Durham region this February. We wanted a taste of the East Coast and to be closer to our beloved France.

But then the Queen reared her ugly head. [Reference here.] The world changed. Life changed. And travel stopped.

It was 97 days before we left our house to go to the grocery store for the first time. And 130 days (4 months = 10 days) before we left our home to get a break. We were going absolutely stir crazy and decided that after the 4th of July weekend we were going to take a day trip to the mountains, just to get some fresh air. We did that 2 weekends in a row and decided given the circumstances, it was exactly what we needed.

Then the sea called.

Except for the 2 years in Phoenix and a portion of our RV trip, Mr. Misadventures and I have always lived near a body of water, mostly the Pacific ocean and we really missed it. One of the bonuses of moving to North Carolina was the proximity to the seaside, so we decided we would take our first mid-pandemic overnight trip to the Outer Banks. The timing of my collaboration with Expedia could not have been more perfect, it was the catalyst I needed to do some traveling on my terms with the flexibility I needed to feel safe. I really felt that Expedia was the best place to plan, book, and manage, or in my case, control, our trip with an Expedia itinerary.

When I began looking for accommodations in the Outer Banks, I was completely unaware that you can rent stand-alone private homes and condos on the platform. That was our first choice as we felt we could have some level of control of the cleanliness and isolate easier, however even in a pandemic this portion of North Carolina’s coastline is popular. So our next plan of attack was to find a newer hotel that had windows or sliding glass doors so that we could leave them open and not use the ventilation system.

We chose several Expedia hotels and began reviewing the photo galleries and the cleaning and safety practices that Expedia has added so you can quickly see what policies a hotel has in place to keep visitors safe. Ultimately we went with the Hampton Inn & Suites in Corolla because it is newer and had a sliding glass door opening onto the sea.

We felt comfortable making the reservation as we could use the Expedia app’s “free cancellation” or “Reserve now, pay later” filters to easily find and book flexible accommodations that suited us in these unprecedented times. If you don’t feel comfortable booking something because you want to see the property first to ensure you feel comfortable staying there, then take advantage of booking last-minute deals using the Expedia app. And if you do rent a private home or condo you can message the owner right from the Expedia app to ask about cleaning policies or make special arrangements.

So how was our trip?

In a word, good. North Carolina has a mandatory mask-in-public rule, and I am hypersensitive to social distancing, but for our first overnight trip out I think we got the respite we needed while still remaining safe.

The hotel was clean and people were following safety policies. And while I would have loved to indulge in a famous Duck donut, the more reasonable person inside of me went for the low carb banana, dark chocolate, and walnut muffin baked by the hubby along with a coffee from the breakfast bar which we indulged in at the outdoor tables between the beach and pool. I had not been to the Outer Banks since the summer of 1984 when my family rented a house in Kitty Hawk, but what I remembered most was the direct access to the beach. So I was so pleasantly surprised to just walk out the back door of the hotel, and up and down a set of stairs, and voilà, there it was! There was even a lifeguard on duty which is awesome for families.

We headed out for the day exploring the Corolla area which included the Currituck Beach Lighthouse. And while the actual lighthouse is closed for climbing to the top, we still enjoyed visiting.

We will be back to climb those stairs to the top for the view!

We also checked out the beach. We stopped into the Currituck National Wildlife Refuge (we will return here in the fall to photograph birds) and then looked for wild horses on Corolla and Carova beaches.

Our trip had dual purposes. We wanted, needed, to get out of our house and we reveled in the 5-hour drive to the Outer Banks, but we also used it to do reconnaissance because we would like to spend a week here in October so we wanted to scope out the best (and least crowded spots). We were grateful for the opportunity to do it in collaboration with Expedia, which gave us the ability (and you can have it too!) by providing a platform and app that has last-minute deals and one-stop vacation planning.

On our way out we stopped at the Wright Brothers National Memorial so that Mr. Misadventures could see what all the fuss is about. North Carolina license plates have “First in Flight” with a picture of the Wright brothers plane so I wanted him to have the connection.

Then we had our first sampling of North Carolina barbeque (or ‘cue as they call it around here) when we stopped at Currituck BBQ Company. It is easy for us to eat low carb at a place like this (unless you splurge for the banana pudding which you know I did since I had been so good about not eating a Duck Donut – this time…).

As we headed home bellies full, we began thinking about what our next trip could look like, and indeed, the spark of travel is alive and well in the Misadventure family!

Tips for traveling during the Age of the Queen

• Look for hotels that allow you to do same-day cancellations.
• If you are uncomfortable booking a hotel without seeing it, book last-minute deals using the Expedia app
• I brought my own cleaning wipes to clean the hotel room (you can also do this with a rental car) to my standards 
• Because we were driving in, we brought our own pillows
• Bring a roll of paper towels, that way if you get takeout for your meals you will have ample cleaning materials
• Bars aren't particularly safe at the moment, and in North Carolina, they are still closed, so consider bringing your own libations, we enjoyed a beautiful sunset from our hotel terrace with a bottle of wine we brought with us.
• Bring some of your own food. If you don't feel comfortable with restaurants you can still enjoy your time (and even save money). We brought breakfast and lunch and then took out dinner. We also brought our own water. When I start getting more comfortable with restaurants first on my list will be seafood. And I will be using my friend Mikkel's guide to the best seafood restaurants in Outer Banks, she has done all the research for me and I can't wait to start checking items off her list!
• If you are driving, check out the available rest stops along the way. If you drink a lot as I do, you will need to stop and you will want to make sure you feel safe. The North Carolina rest stops that I have used have all been super clean with mostly contactless facilities, but I the last 2.5 hours of our drive home there were only small gas stations so I..um…”held it,” you can't always do that with kids, so plan accordingly.
• Face mask (of course!), hand sanitizer, and wash your hands!

How about you? Have you planned any trips lately? Are you staying local or road-tripping? Do share!

This is a sponsored collaboration with Expedia. As always all opinions are my own.

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