Before even setting off for the Portuguese capital, I had experienced many of the small traditional pastries that you can in just about every guidebook in Hawaii and at Portuguese-American events in the San Francisco Bay Area.

For some reason, Pasteis de Nata seemed to court hushed tones amongst city experts and those in the know about Portuguese food. Their elevated status was intriguing to me. They were only pastries, how special could they be?

There was only one way to find out…

What is a Pasteis de Belem?

As I experienced first-hand in the charming town of Belem, Pasteis de Nata (singular is Pastel de Belem), or Portuguese ‘custard tarts’, are small, papery pastries filled with deliciously sweet and gooey egg custard. When seasoned with cinnamon and icing sugar, they are the ultimate accompaniment to a tiny but mighty cup of Portuguese coffee.

Pasteis de Nata are sold all over Lisbon but are most closely associated with Belem. In fact, the cafés near the Jerónimos Monastery are as popular as any other tourist attraction dotted around this historic Lisbon suburb.

Belem’s maze of traditionally tiled coffee shops is a mecca for cake and coffee fans, but Casa Pasteis de Belem is, by all means, the mothership. The café’s history is a compelling enough reason to visit.

Casa Pasteis de Belem has its roots in the liberal revolution of 1820 when all convents and monasteries in Portugal were shut down. By 1834, clergy and laborers had been expelled from ecclesiastical buildings, so many were facing destitution. Times were tough by all accounts, so in an attempt to supplement their income, a group of enterprising clerics in Belem offered to sell their pastries to the general store located next to the sugar cane refinery.

Around the same time, the architectural splendor of the Torre de Belém (Belem Tower) was attracting tourists who, over the years, had grown accustomed to dropping by to enjoy some of the monastery’s pastries.

In 1837, Casa Pasteis de Belem set up shop in the buildings joined to the sugar cane refinery, using the secret recipe from the monastery. To this day, the recipe is shrouded in mystery and is only passed on to trusted master confectioners who bake the pastries in the ‘secrets room’.

Getting to Belem:

Belem is located just 3.5 miles/6 km from Lisbon city center. To get to Lisbon from Belem, take tram 15 from Figueira Square or Comercio Square or if driving with Lisbon car hire, head north on Praca do Comércio in the direction of Av Infante Dom Henrique. Take a left turn at R. di Comércio. Then, take another left at R. Áurea.

You will then need to take a slight right turn at Praca do Comércio. From here, turn right at Av. Da Ribeira das Naus and continue in towards Cais do Sodré train station. From here head for Av. 24 de Julho and stay on Av. 24 de Julho. Next, take a slight left turn at Av. 24 de Julho and continue along Av. 24 de Julho.

Then travel towards Av. Da Índia/N6 and take a left turn to stay on this road. Next, turn right at Praca Afonso de Albuquerque and take a left turn to stay on this road. Keep to the left side of the road at the fork. Casa Pastéis de Belém is located on the left.

Address: Pastéis de Belém, Rua de Belem, 84

Where to find the best Pasteis de Nata (non-Belem version) in Lisbon

Pasteis de Nata are found all over the city and on every trip to Lisbon (I've been there now 3 times and spent 3 months there) I discover more!

• Eater has dedicated a whole guide to them!
• Manteigaria > Rua do Loreto 2
• Fábrica da Nata > 62 -68 Praça dos Restauradores
• Pastelaria Versailles > Av. da República 15-A
• Confeitaria Nacional > Praça da Figueira 18B
• Pastelaria Cristal > R. Buenos Aires 25A
• Aloma > Rua Francisco, Metrass 67, Campo de Ourique

Pasteis de Nata Recipes:

• Leites Culinaria
• Food52
• Tasting Table

Pastel de Nata Workshop

What if you could learn to make these little slices of heaven at home? Then yes, you would miss Lisbon and Portugal, but you would be armed with the tools to make Pasteis de Nata and I promise you, you would instantly feel better!

What better way to experience Lisbon than to take a cooking class, meet other pastry fans, and have a treat? I did this in Paris and have the fondest memories! My friend Cindy of Travel Bliss Now took the Pastel de Nata Workshop in Lisbon, I am super jealous and will do this on my NEXT trip – promise!

Pastel de Nata Cream!

I am a HUGE fan of Benamor, the Portuguese beauty line that makes delicious-smelling hand and body creams. Until recently my favorite scent was jacaranda whose trees you find in Lisbon, but Benamor just recently released a new scent, and you guess it…it's called Nata and smells just like warm Pastel de Nata! You can get it on their website or through Amazon! I bought some and I am LOVING it!

How about you? Have you tried Pastéis de Nata or Pastéis de Belém?

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Are you in love with Portugal like I am? Check out these posts:

• Exploring In and Around Lisbon
• Cruising Portugal Douro Valley
• How to Order Coffee in Portugal
• Codfish in Lisbon, a must-try!
• The Tradition of Bacalhau
• Costa Vicentina

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Someone on Instagram had told me I would appreciate Lisbon because it was so much like San Francisco – I just couldn't believe how much it was like San Francisco. The hills, the cable cars, earthquakes, the overall size, a food market like the Ferry Building, their own Golden Gate Bridge (made by the same people who built the one in SF!). It was weird, a good weird, and Mr. Misadventures and I loved it!

Here are some of the highlights from our four days of exploring.

Tower of Belem

While scouting spots for sunrise photography (remember who I was traveling with!) we headed to Tower of Belem which was totally empty that early in the morning, perfect! We went back later with Viking as part of our city tour excursion when there was a lot more activity.

We would have loved to have gone up the hundreds of steps to the tower to see the surrounding view and took look down. (Next trip!) There are some beautiful wavy tiles at the base.

Beautiful tiles would be a theme throughout our entire trip in Portugal.

The Trams

We rode the trams several times. Not only to take photos but also because they are fun to ride! The best time is early morning when they are less crowded, what can I say, the world belongs to the early risers…

Tip:  Try to have exact change or coins. The drivers get grumpy when they have to make change. Unfortunately, the routes have different prices so do your best!

The Elevators

Because of the hilliness of the city, there are also trams (referred to as elevators) in some of the neighborhoods to help the residents climb the hills. We spent a lot of time around Bica because it was just above the food market (see below). It wasn't running, out for maintenance, so it gave us an opportunity to photograph it without it being in motion, plus the slope to the bottom offered a great view which Mr. Misadventures captured above.

Of course, that shot was also at 6 in the morning, otherwise, there are local residents (and tourists) climbing up and down the hill making it hard to get the hill, or the elevator, all by itself.

These elevators are really mostly used by locals in the residential neighborhoods and are “decorated” by local artists on an almost daily basis. Like the one above in Lavra. Totally empty in the middle of the day, great for capturing it without a lot of people riding in it.

The Market

The building that houses Lisbon's market has been cut in two. One side is the main market, restaurateurs/chefs purchase goods in the morning (we know, we were there at 6:30) as well as locals a little later. The other half of the building is an upscale food court where some of the city's best chefs have stands. There is a bar in the middle and the perimeter has all kinds of Portuguese cuisines as well as a sushi bar and hamburger joint.

We landed there on our first night and had an apéro with Iberian ham, sheep's cheese, and local beer (me) and wine (the hubby).

I have to say it was mainly locals and we had a good time people-watching. We went back another night for carry out.

The People

Everywhere we went in Lisbon, and in Portugal in general, we met super friendly, passionate people. It was awesome. Given that we were out and about in the very early morning hours, we also met our fair share of intoxicated people.

This is Natasha and her friend at the Bica Elevator. We were there to shoot sunrise photos, they were climbing up the hill returning from an all-nighter dancing and drinking. Natasha stopped to tell us about Madeira, one of the Portuguese islands where she is from. She is a very good ambassador for this part of her country. She told us all about it. How wonderful Portugal is, etc. She spoke perfect English (her companion as well).

She requested her photo multiple times, so Mr. Misadventures obliged – she was standing in his frame anyway, not much else he could do. After 30 minutes her friend convinced her to leave and we enjoyed a chuckle, Natasha had certainly made the start of our day quite colorful!

What I Missed/Didn't See

Santa Justa Lift – the lines are always crazy long to go on this Eiffel-inspired elevator. We ran out of early mornings to see how it is at sunrise.

Pastéis de Belém – even though we were so close the morning we went to Belem Tower. And we stopped right next store to the shop that produces this famous pastry while on our Viking tour, I cannot justify waiting in a long line to eat something that I can get all over the city. [Now I know that pastel de nata is different than Pastéis de Belém, but I am guessing not so different.]

Head's Up

Whenever you go to a restaurant, you will be served bread and olives. Don't eat them unless you want to pay for them. This was a mistake that Mr. Misadventures and I made our first lunch out in Lisbon. Good restaurants will state on the menu. Others will just serve you and unless you look at your bill closely, you'll pay for them without noticing.

I don't like the practice, but apparently, it is a known thing, we just didn't know. (Maybe if I had studied up on the 50 things you need to know before you visit Portugal, I would have been informed!)

We want to see more of Lisbon but also use it as a home base to explore more of the surrounding area on day trips. Here is a really good itinerary for 3 days in Lisbon if you are coming to Lisbon for a few days. We visited in the summer, but Lisbon in the winter is wonderful as well.

How about you? Have you been to Lisbon, what was your favorite part? If you haven't been, is it on your bucket list? Do tell!

Disclosure:  This is NOT a sponsored post, my 4 days in Lisbon, all expenses were paid by me. However, my flights to Lisbon were paid for by virtue of my sponsored trip with Viking River Cruises.

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Portuguese Coffee Culture

Coffee is an important part of daily life in Portugal but that doesn’t mean that everyone grabs a coffee-to-go on the way to work.

Instead, it’s much more common to begin your day with a coffee or at least take an afternoon coffee shop break. Coffee is typically enjoyed at the cafe while catching up with friends or the news. Think of a coffee date as the equivalent of grabbing a beer to catch up with friends in the US.

Coffee has played a huge role in Portuguese history, with the Portuguese first getting coffee beans in 1727, thanks to Francisco de Melo Palheta. The coffee plantations were originally in Brazil, with the beans shipped to Portugal for roasting. Or so the story goes! There are, of course, many different versions of how exactly coffee came to Portugal.

The Portuguese are very serious about their coffee and buy only top quality. A good way to get up to speed is to join the locals and have breakfast in a typical café or a “pastelaria.”

Once you enter a coffeehouse you’ll probably be overwhelmed with the wide variety of pastries on offer, but if you thought the coffee options would be easier, you were wrong! Coffee in Portugal is a science and they have so many options. You will need a bit of practice to figure out what you like and what you want.

Don’t stay with espresso try them all!

To order your coffee at a cafe, you’ll need to just a few words of Portuguese – bom dia (“good day”), the type of coffee you want, and por favor (“please)”.

For example, you might say: Bom dia, um cafe cheio por favor.

What Coffee To Order in Portugal

Here are some of the most popular Portuguese coffee drinks.  Don’t stay with espresso try them all!

Um café/Uma bica

This is a shot of espresso, similar to Italian espresso. Very tasty and perfect before a long walk through Lisbon streets. In the north of Portugal, in Oporto (Porto), is known as “cimbalino”.

Um abatanado

This is the closest you’ll find to a traditional Americano, with the same amount of coffee as a cafe that is poured longer and served in a larger cup.

Um café cheio/curto

Um “café cheio” is an espresso filled with a bit of hot water. Still quite strong. The “curto” is a still more concentrated coffee. They are both served in espresso cups.

Um café com elite / Um pingado

Pingado coffee is an espresso with a few drops of milk. Also served in an espresso cup.

Um garoto

Garoto coffee is a hint of coffee filled with milk and served in an espresso cup. Garoto means kid in Portuguese as this was the coffee kids drank before they were allowed to have a proper coffee.

Un Carioca

This is a coffee with a copious amount of water, resulting in a weaker coffee. In some places, you can also find the carioca de limão, which is not a coffee but a lemon infusion.

Uma meia de elite

With almost equal portions of coffee to milk, this coffee drink is served in a standard coffee cup. If you want it a bit stronger, specify ‘escura’ when ordering it.

Um galão

Similar to ‘meia de leite‘, this coffee has a larger size and is served in a glass instead of a coffee cup. It’s ideal for breakfast, especially with a pair of the famous, ‘pasteis de nata’.

Café com cheirinho

Cheirinho means “smell” as it has a blend of “bagazo”, a Portuguese liquor. It’s the perfect option after a hearty meal.

Um descafeinado

This is the decaffeinated coffee option.

Um Café com Gelo

If you are looking for an iced coffee, this is likely the only version you’ll find outside of Starbucks. You’ll get a cup of coffee and a separate cup of ice to combine yourself.

In some places, the coffee is served with a cinnamon stick, which is used to stir the coffee or to drink it using the stick as a straw.

Best Coffee Shops in Portugal

There are many, many places to get your coffee but here are a few favorites in Lisbon and Porto. You are likely to find all these options in all the coffeehouses in the country but if you are looking for the most loved and popular option for your next visit check out these spots:

Best Coffee Shops in Lisbon

Cafe Brasilerira

Located in one of the most charismatic parts of the city, next to Praça Camoes. This famous café opened in 1905. On one of the outside tables, you will find the bronze statue of the great Portuguese poet, Fernando Pessoa, sitting beside his inseparable cup of coffee.

But don’t forget the inside of the bar, where you will be able to admire the magnificent art nouveau decor. They say the coffee here is the best in Portugal, so if you have the chance, don't miss it.

Address: Cafe Brasilerira is located at rua Garrett, 120.

Café Nicola

This is a popular spot among those who live in Lisbon, so you know it’s good! The perfect place to relax while enjoying views of the D. Pedro IV square. This is also the brand of one of the most popular Portuguese coffee brands!

Address: Café Nicola is located at Praça Dom Pedro IV 24.

Fábrica Coffee Roasters

If you’re looking for a flat white or cappuccino, this is the place to go as they have a very extensive menu with everything from Portuguese espressos to international favorites. 

They also roast their coffee beans on-site.

Address: Fábrica Coffee Roasters has 2 locations in Lisbon: R. das Portas de Santo Antão 136 and Rua das Flores 63.

Copenhagen Coffee Lab

This is a franchise, but Mr. Misadventures and I had a lovely meeting with our friends, Mindy and Daryl, from the 2FoodTrippers and I had an excellent cappuccino (well 2 actually) there so I would be remiss if I didn't mention it!

Address: There are 6 in Lisbon, but the one on Rua de S. Paulo 62 is the one I had my coffee in. Other locations include:

• R. Nova da Piedade 10
• Escolas Gerais 34
• Campo de Santa Clara 136
• Rua Prior do Crato 1a
• Av. Álvares Cabral 13C

Jeronymo Café

Right outside the apartment in Campo de Ourique we were staying in while visiting Lisbon for a month, was a really cool Jeronymo Café, it was huge and we started every day with a coffee from this Portuguese franchise.

There is also a good one at the Estação do Oriente train station which we stopped in at a few times.

Address: You can find Jeronymo Café all over Lisbon, check their website (in English) for a location near you during your visit.

Café Jardim da Estrela

For a quick coffee while you are waiting for Tram 28 near the Estrela garden, or if you just visited the Basílica da Estrela and want a breather then pop into the Café Jardim da Estrela or Banaba Cafe for a quick coffee.

Linha d'Água (My Favorite)

Not a coffee shop per se, but a great place to get coffee. Their coffee is solid, nothing to complain about, a good cup of coffee, but you cannot beat the view and the location in Jardim Amália Rodrigues. Nothing like chilling beside the water on the large terrace (or hanging on the lounge chairs) with a fountain and mini-lake. I recommend late morning or afternoon as it can be busy at lunchtime.

Address: Jardim Amália Rodrigues, Rua Marquês de Fronteira (not too far from El Corte Inglés department store).

A few other spots in Lisbon to consider:

• Bettina & Niccolò Corallo: R. da Escola Politécnica 4
• Buna Specialty Coffee Shop: R. do Poço dos Negros 168
• Give It a Shot (Time Out Market): Rua Dom Luís I 22
• Heim Cafe: R. Santos-O-Velho 2 e 4
• Hello, Kristof: Rua do Poço dos Negros 103
• Melbourne elouera: Rua do Possolo 52
• Milkees: R. Filipe Folque 7B
• Neighbourhood Coffee: Largo do Conde Barão 25
• Simpli Coffee Roasters & Bakery: R. Braamcamp 64
• SO Coffee Roasters: Calçada do Sacramento 30
• Tease: R. Quintinha 70B
• The Mill: R. do Poço dos Negros 1
• Wish Slow Coffee House (in LX Factory): Rua Rodrigues de Faria 103

Best Coffee Shops in Porto

Fábrica Coffee Roasters

This is the same roaster that is in Lisbon. The one in Porto is a very large space with old brick, vintage touches, modern decor plus gorgeous ceilings, and plenty of seating. You will love the natural light coming through the windows plus there is a really cute outdoor patio/hidden garden filled with plants. They do pour-overs which can be rare!

Address: Fábrica Coffee Roasters is located at R. de José Falcão 122.

Moustache

Moustache cafe is located near the Lello bookstore and other shops and restaurants. People call it hipster, but judge for yourself! It has a nicely lit and spacious interior, with lots of outlets, comfy chairs, and big tables. They have four different seating areas including a lounge upstairs in the loft and outdoor terrace/patio.

Address: Moustache is located at Praça de Carlos Alberto 104.

Majestic Café

Have you even been to Porto if you haven't visited the Lello library or had coffee in the Majestic Café? The Belle Époque cafe opened in 1920 its Art Nouveau style was fashioned after Parisian cafés. It is expensive and there will be a long wait so just like the Lello library it is up to you to decide if it is worth it!

Address: Majestic Café is located at Rua Santa Catarina 112.

A few other spots in Porto to consider:

• Café Guarany: Av. dos Aliados 85 89. Another Belle Époque cafe opened in 1933
• Café Piolho: Praça de Parada Leitão 45
• C’Alma Specialty Coffee Room: R. de Passos Manuel 44
• Combi Coffee: R. do Morgado de Mateus 29
• Confeitaria do Bolhao: Rua Formosa 339 – 100 years old!
• Mesa 325: Av. de Camilo 325
• My Coffee Porto: Escadas do Codeçal 22
• Nicolau: Largo de Alberto Pimentel 4
• Noshi Cafe: R. do Carmo 11 12
• Senzu Coffee Roasters: Rua do Rosário, 211
• So Coffee Roasters: Rua Sá de Noronha, 119
• Confeitaria Tavi: R. da Sra. da Luz 363. Coffee with an amazing view!

We stayed at this lovely hotel for the weekend on Rua das Flores and also had coffee at Jeronymo Café.

7g Roaster

Technically not in Porto, but rather across the river in Gaia, this spot is too cool not to mention! 7g Roaster is a specialty coffee roaster and coffee shop with a beautiful terrace with an Insta-worthy vertical garden. I love the modern aesthetic and they have great coffee!

Address: 7g Roaster is located at R. de França 52 in Gaia.

I hope this little guide will help you with the ins and outs of ordering coffee in Portugal! Coffee has been part of my life since I was very little, and I share all the details in My Coffee Story.

How about you? Have you ever tried any of these coffees in Portugal? Do tell!

If you are a fan of coffee and travel, you might also like:

San Francisco has no shortage of great places for coffee and my Where to go for Coffee in San Francisco has plenty of details.

I fell head over heels in love with Tom Greenwell, a fourth-generation coffee farmer at Greenwell Coffee Farm in Hawaii. Farmer, food scientist, and coffee champion, after spending several hours with Tom I had a whole new appreciation for Kona coffee.

I have spent a lot of time in Paris, my hubby even more, but despite that fact, ordering coffee in Paris can be daunting even for us! I put together a post on How to Order Coffee in Paris to help. And in case you need help ordering breakfast, here are all the details of a typical French breakfast.

Illustrations commissioned from Linden Eller.

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The Portuguese are masters in preparing both meat and seafood, and in particular the omnipresent codfish bacalhau, in its many, many variations. The interwebs have told me there are 365 or more different ways to cook codfish. This main ingredient has been present in Portuguese cuisine for centuries; long before any other modern food preservation technique was invented. That’s why still nowadays in Portugal fresh cod is much less common than dried salted one.

Pastéis de Bacalhau

I have to start with my favorite bacalhau which is the Pastéis de Bacalhau, but of course, I am a big fan of pastéis de nata too! But in the bacalhau version, the salted cod is deep-friedcodfish in in a fritter style. You can get these babies at restaurants, cafes, even bakeries and they are delicious on their own or served with potatoes or rice.

Where to get the best Pastéis de Bacalhau in Lisbon

• Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau > Rua Augusta, 106 e 108
• Laurentina, O Rei do Bacalhau > Av. Conde Valbom 71A
• Restaurante Faz Frio > R. Dom Pedro V 96

Pastéis de Bacalhau Recipes

If you want to make this dish at home, check out these recipes:

• Leites Culinaria
• Easy Portuguese Recipes

Bacalhau à Brás

One of the most popular versions is Bacalhau à Brás, with onions, chopped potatoes, and eggs, decorated with olives and parsley. It's salty and crunching and the olives and a nice hit of acid.

Where to get the best Bacalhau à Brás in Lisbon

• Miguel Castro e Silva stall inside Time Out Market Lisboa > Mercado da Ribeira; Av. 24 de Julho 49
• A Casa do Bacalhau > Rua do Grilo 54
• O Vicentinho > Rua Voz do Operario 1
• Pastelaria Baloico 5 > Avenida Ressano Garcia 47-A

Bacalhau à Brás Recipes:

If you want to make this dish at home, check out these recipes:

• Leites Culinaria
• Food52
• Food & Wine Magazine

Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá

Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá is codfish with potatoes baked in the oven after being stewed in milk. Similar to the previous version is garnished with eggs, parsley, and olives.

Where to get the best Gomes de Sá in Lisbon

• Restaurant D'Bacalhau > Rua da Pimenta
• Cafe Nicola > Praca Dom Pedro IV 24
• Chapito a Mesa > Costa do Castelo 7

Gomes de Sá Recipes:

If you want to make this dish at home, check out these recipes:

• 196 Flavors
• Taste Porto
• Food & Wine Magazine

Bacalhau à Narcisa

Bacalhau à Narcisa consists of fried cod and potatoes and onions fried in the same oil a with bay leaves and cloves.

Where to get the best Bacalhau à Narcisa in Lisbon

• Actually, the best place to eat this is not in Lisbon, but Casa do Povo in Ferreiros do Dão > Rua Direita 60 – day trip!
• After that, you must visit Braga, where the dish originates!

Bacalhau à Narcisa Recipes:

If you want to make this dish at home, check out these recipes:

• Ellen Travelling Kitchen

Needless to say in Lisbon there are heaps of bars, taverns, restaurants where you can try as many codfish dishes as you want or if you prefer to try to buy all the ingredients and try to prepare it yourself at home.

To mention just a few more places where you can enjoy Portuguese style code: Tasca da Esquina in Rua Domingos Sequeira 41C,  Terreira do Paço in Praça do Comércio, or Toma Lá Dá Cá Restaurant in Travessa do Sequeiro, 38. Let the waiter recommend the Portuguese wine that will form a perfect harmony with your dish.

How about you? Have you had cod? Have any favorite recipes?

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Are you in love with Portugal like I am? Check out these posts:

• Exploring In and Around Lisbon
• Cruising Portugal Douro Valley
• How to Order Coffee in Portugal
• Pasteis de Nata: A Taste of Heaven in Lisbon
• Codfish in Lisbon, a must-try!
• The Tradition of Bacalhau

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