Portugal – Misadventures with Andi https://misadventureswithandi.com Misadventures with Andi is a travel and lifestyle blog focused on the merry musings of a feisty foodie, globe-trotting wannabe Frenchie. Wed, 17 Sep 2025 09:54:58 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://misadventureswithandi.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/cropped-mwa_favicon-32x32.png Portugal – Misadventures with Andi https://misadventureswithandi.com 32 32 81929375 Things to do in Lisbon in the Summer https://misadventureswithandi.com/things-to-do-in-lisbon-in-the-summer/ https://misadventureswithandi.com/things-to-do-in-lisbon-in-the-summer/#comments Mon, 19 Feb 2024 21:25:12 +0000 https://misadventureswithandi.com/?p=100006 Lisbon is a sun-drenched city where summer vibrates with life despite the heat. I have been to Lisbon several times now including at the end of May/beginning of June when the temperatures soared into the 100s and even with the heat index being what it is there are still plenty of things to do in...

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Lisbon is a sun-drenched city where summer vibrates with life despite the heat. I have been to Lisbon several times now including at the end of May/beginning of June when the temperatures soared into the 100s and even with the heat index being what it is there are still plenty of things to do in Lisbon in the summer!

This guide is your passport to experiencing the best of Lisbon and its surroundings during the summer months. Whether you're exploring ancient monasteries, paddleboarding in crystal-clear waters, lounging on golden beaches, diving into the rich world of museums, or savoring local culinary delights, Lisbon offers a treasure trove of things to do that promise refreshment and cultural enrichment.

Nestled among rolling hills and the scenic coastline, Portugal's capital is not only a hub of historic charm and lively streets but also a gateway to stunning natural landscapes and pristine beaches. I am sharing things to do in Lisbon and the surrounding area.

These destinations are all accessible by train or a short car ride, and offer the perfect blend of leisure and exploration, ensuring your Lisbon summer is filled with unforgettable moments and cool escapes from the heat.

Let’s dive into a curated list of must-do activities that promise to keep you cool while soaking in Lisbon's rich culture and breathtaking landscapes.

Alfama Lisbon Cityscape

Discover the Grandeur of Jerónimos Monastery

Begin your adventure in the historic Belém district, where the Jerónimos Monastery stands as a testament to Portugal’s Age of Discoveries. This architectural masterpiece, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a marvel of Manueline decoration, a unique Portuguese style that blends Gothic, Renaissance, and Moorish influences.

As you wander through its cloisters, you'll be enveloped in a serene coolness, a welcome respite from the summer heat. The monastery is not just a feast for the eyes; it’s a journey through Portugal's maritime glory, hosting the tombs of Vasco da Gama and Luís de Camões.

Tickets & Tours: Get Your Guide | Viator

Monastère Jéronimo Lisbon
Interior shade of the Monastère Jéronimo

Explore Lisbon's Rich Museum Scene

The array of museums in Lisbon offers something for every interest, from ancient art and history to modern and contemporary movements. As you traverse the city from one museum to another, you'll find that each visit enriches your understanding of Portugal's complex tapestry of cultures and eras, all while keeping you comfortably cool.

Museu Nacional do Azulejo

One cannot talk about Portuguese culture without mentioning its iconic azulejos (ceramic tiles), and the Museu Nacional do Azulejo is dedicated to this art form. Housed in the former Convent of Madre de Deus, the museum displays an exquisite collection of tiles dating from the 15th century to the present day.

The evolution of azulejo art is beautifully laid out, showcasing the intricate craftsmanship and creativity that define Portuguese tilework. The cool, quiet halls of the museum offer a respite from the summer sun, allowing visitors to leisurely appreciate the stunning displays.

I did the Tiles and Tales Tile Workshop and Private Tour which includes a ticket to the National Tile Museum and had a BLAST painting my own tile!

Pena Palace in tile

Gulbenkian Museum:

A cultural treasure trove, the Gulbenkian Museum houses an eclectic collection ranging from ancient Egyptian artifacts to modern paintings. The museum's serene gardens provide a cool, shady retreat to ponder over the artworks and enjoy a peaceful moment away from the city's hustle and bustle.

MAAT – Museum of Art, Architecture, and Technology

For those with a penchant for modern and contemporary art, architecture, and technology, the MAAT is a must-visit. Situated along the banks of the Tagus River, its striking building is a piece of art in itself, featuring a futuristic design that seamlessly blends into the riverscape.

Inside, the museum hosts a dynamic array of exhibitions that encourage reflection on current societal and technological issues. The cool, spacious interiors of MAAT provide a stimulating environment to explore new perspectives and innovations.

Outside, Mr. Misadventures and I did plenty of sunrise AND sunset shoots here. The building is a great photo subject!

MAAT Museum in Lisbon
MAAT Museum

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga

The National Museum of Ancient Art, or Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, is Portugal's answer to those with a taste for the classical. It houses the most significant public collection of Portuguese art from the Middle Ages to the 19th century, including paintings, sculptures, metalworks, and textiles.

Notable works include The Panels of Saint Vincent by Nuno Gonçalves and The Temptations of St. Anthony by Hieronymus Bosch. The museum's rooms are a cool haven, where the richness of Portugal’s artistic heritage can be enjoyed in contemplative quietude.

Museu Coleção Berardo

Located in the cultural center of Belém, the Museu Coleção Berardo is a contemporary art museum that features an impressive collection of modern and postmodern art. From Picasso and Warhol to Portuguese contemporary artists, the museum offers a comprehensive overview of the major art movements of the 20th and 21st centuries.

The air-conditioned galleries provide a refreshing environment to explore the works of some of the most influential artists of our time.

Oceanário de Lisboa:

Dive into the underwater world at one of the largest aquariums in Europe. The Oceanário de Lisboa offers a mesmerizing experience with its vast tanks teeming with colorful marine life, including sharks, rays, and playful penguins. It's an educational and refreshing escape that captivates both young and old.

I love a good museum and this one is amazing!

Tickets & Tours: Get Your Guide | Viator

Oceanarium of Lisbon
Oceanário de Lisboa

Discovering Lisbon's Coastal Gems: Beaches to Visit

Lisbon's summer allure is its proximity to some of Portugal's most beautiful beaches. The Lisbon coastline and its surroundings boast a variety of sandy retreats, each with its unique character. Here's a guide to additional beaches that promise sun, surf, and sand, providing the perfect seaside escape during the warm summer months.

Galapinhos Beach in Arrabida
Galapinhos Beach in Arrabida

Praia de Galápos

Praia de Galápos, nestled within the Serra da Arrábida, is a hidden gem that boasts some of the clearest and calmest waters in Portugal. Its sheltered location makes it an ideal spot for swimming and snorkeling, away from the bustling crowds.

The beach’s fine white sands and surrounding lush greenery create a picturesque setting for a day of relaxation and sunbathing. Remember to bring your sunscreen and a good book!

Praia do Tamariz

Located in Estoril, just a short train ride from Lisbon, Praia do Tamariz is not only convenient but also a favorite among both locals and visitors. Its picturesque setting, complete with a castle overlooking the beach, makes it a charming spot for a day under the sun.

The beach is well-equipped with amenities, including sunbeds, umbrellas, and a variety of bars and restaurants, making it ideal for a comfortable and relaxing day by the sea.

Praia da Adraga

For those willing to venture a bit further from Lisbon, Praia da Adraga, located in the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, is a must-visit. Its rugged cliffs and natural beauty make it one of the most scenic beaches in the Lisbon area. The beach is a bit more secluded, offering a peaceful atmosphere for those looking to escape the more crowded spots.

The powerful waves here also attract surfers and bodyboarders, adding a lively vibe to its otherwise tranquil setting.

Carcavelos beach in Lisbon
Carcavelos Beach

Praia de Carcavelos

As one of the largest and most popular beaches close to Lisbon, Praia de Carcavelos offers plenty of space for everyone, from sunbathers to sports enthusiasts. The beach is well-known for its excellent conditions for surfing, making it a popular choice for both beginners and experienced surfers.

With a wide promenade, numerous cafes and restaurants, and vibrant beach bars, Carcavelos provides a lively beach day experience with all the conveniences at hand.

Praia das Maçãs

Praia das Maçãs is a delightful beach located at the end of the historic Tram Line 28, which runs from Sintra. The journey to the beach is an experience in itself, offering picturesque views of the Sintra countryside. Once there, you'll find a wide sandy beach, a saltwater swimming pool, and a selection of seafood restaurants along the promenade.

The beach is well-suited for families, with gentle waves and plenty of activities to keep everyone entertained.

Praia do Guincho

Famed for its wild beauty and powerful waves, Praia do Guincho is a haven for windsurfers, kitesurfers, and surfers. Located near Cascais, this beach is surrounded by the dramatic landscape of the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, offering breathtaking views and a sense of adventure.

The wind conditions here can be strong, making it less ideal for swimming but perfect for adrenaline-packed water sports.

Paddleboarding Adventures Near Lisbon

Speaking of water sports each of these locations not only adds variety to your paddleboarding adventures but also allows you to explore the diverse landscapes and seascapes that make the Lisbon area so captivating.

So, grab your board and set off to discover these magnificent spots. Each paddle stroke promises new sights, sounds, and the invigorating feel of the sea breeze, making your summer in Lisbon an unforgettable adventure on the water.

My experience paddleboarding in Portugal got me hooked on this activity and I have picked up my own paddlingboarding equipment! A vacation adventure can turn into a new passion!

SUP Stand up Surf girl with paddle

Cascais and Guincho Beach

A short train ride from Lisbon, the picturesque town of Cascais is not only known for its charming streets and luxurious villas but also for its fantastic watersports conditions. Guincho Beach, situated on the outskirts of Cascais, is renowned for its strong winds and waves, making it an exhilarating spot for paddleboarding, especially if you're looking to challenge yourself a bit more.

The dramatic coastline and the power of the Atlantic Ocean provide a thrilling backdrop for an unforgettable paddleboarding experience.

Tagus River

For a different perspective of Lisbon, why not explore its heart via the Tagus River? Paddleboarding on the Tagus offers a unique vantage point of the city’s monuments, bridges, and historical landmarks.

The waters here are generally calmer, making it suitable for beginners or those looking for a more relaxed experience. An early morning or late afternoon paddle provides not only cooler temperatures but also magical views as the sun sets or rises over the cityscape.

female surfer in bikini is riding a paddleboard

Sesimbra

Another gem within reach of Lisbon is Sesimbra, a coastal town known for its calm, clear waters and beautiful natural surroundings. The area around Sesimbra is protected, resulting in rich marine life and excellent water clarity, ideal for paddleboarding.

Whether you're gliding over the water or taking breaks to snorkel, Sesimbra offers a tranquil escape where the sea's beauty can be appreciated up close. It’s also a great spot for paddleboard beginners, with several schools offering lessons and guided tours.

Costa da Caparica

Stretching south of Lisbon, the Costa da Caparica boasts miles of sandy beaches that are a haven for surfers and paddleboarders alike. The expansive coastline offers plenty of space for everyone, with various spots catering to different skill levels. The waters here can range from calm to challenging, providing a good mix for paddleboarding enthusiasts.

After a day on the water, the beachfront cafes and bars offer the perfect setting to relax and enjoy the sunset over the Atlantic.

Unwind in Lisbon's Green Spaces

Lisbon, with its vibrant culture and historic charm, also boasts beautiful parks and gardens. These green spaces offer a peaceful escape from the bustling city streets, providing both locals and visitors with a chance to unwind, enjoy nature, and soak up the sunny ambiance of Portugal's capital.

Jardim Botânico da Ajuda
Jardim Botânico da Ajuda

Jardim Botânico da Ajuda

The Jardim Botânico da Ajuda is not just a park but the oldest botanical garden in Portugal, offering a fascinating journey through centuries-old trees, rare plant species, and historical statues. Established in the 18th century as part of Ajuda National Palace, the garden was designed to educate princes in the natural sciences.

Today, it serves as a living museum where visitors can marvel at its collection of over 5,000 plant species, arranged in terraces adorned with baroque fountains and statues. It's a tranquil sanctuary where history and botany intertwine.

Quinta das Conchas e dos Lilases

Quinta das Conchas e dos Lilases combines extensive green areas with a rich historical background. This park, one of the largest in Lisbon, encompasses over 24 hectares of lush landscapes, including a large pond, diverse flora, and leisure facilities.

It's a popular spot for family outings, offering ample space for picnics, sports, and relaxation. The park's history dates back to the 16th century, and it features a mix of natural and designed elements, creating a harmonious environment for visitors to enjoy.

Monsanto Forest Park

Seeking a respite from the urban buzz? Monsanto Forest Park, often referred to as Lisbon's “lungs,” offers a vast expanse of greenery where you can hike, bike, or simply enjoy a picnic with stunning views over the city.

Estufa Fria
Estufa Fria

Estufa Fria

Discover the tranquil beauty of Estufa Fria, a lush botanical garden nestled in Eduardo VII Park. It's a serene oasis where you can wander among exotic plants, waterfalls, and streams, providing a cool retreat from the summer heat.

Celebrating the Saint Anthony Festival in Lisbon

If you are visiting Lisbon in June you do not want to miss the vibrant celebrations of the Saint Anthony Festival, a tribute to the city's patron saint, Saint Anthony of Padua. Known locally as the Festas de Santo António, this festival transforms the little neighborhoods of the city. It's a time when the warm summer air is filled with the sounds of laughter, music, and the collective cheer of Lisboetas and visitors alike.

Street of Lisbon decorated with sardines

The Heart of the Celebration

The festivities officially kick off on the night of June 12th, leading into Saint Anthony's Day on June 13th. However, the entire month is peppered with events and activities celebrating Portuguese culture and heritage. The historical neighborhoods of Alfama, Mouraria, and Bairro Alto become the epicenters of the celebration, adorned with streamers, balloons, and colorful lights, creating a festive atmosphere that's infectious.

My family is Portuguese and I loved going to Saint Anthony's festas in California!

A Gastronomic Delight

One of the highlights of the Saint Anthony Festival is the gastronomy. The festival is synonymous with the tradition of grilling sardines (sardinhas assadas), served on a slice of bread with a side of salad and enjoyed in the communal spirit of the festas.

Alongside this, you'll find stalls selling caldo verde (kale soup), bifanas (pork sandwiches), and a variety of sweet treats like the beloved pastéis de nata (custard tarts). The smell of grilling sardines becomes the signature scent of Lisbon in June, drawing food lovers from all corners to partake in this culinary tradition.

Grilled sardines in a herbal lemon marinade

Sweetening Your Lisbon Summer

It's HOT in Lisbon in the summer and one of my favorite ways to cool off is ice cream. The people of Lisbon actually lean more towards gelatos than ice creams, but there are plenty of spots where you can find both.

Man holding an ice cream in the street

Gelato Davvero

Praised for its authentic Italian gelato, Gelato Davvero stands out with its rich flavors and creamy textures. They have several locations across the city, including the scenic riverside area. This gelateria offers a wide range of flavors from classic chocolate and vanilla to more unique options like fig, ricotta, and even port wine. The quality of ingredients and the passion behind each scoop make Davvero a must-visit for any gelato aficionado.

Santini

A household name in Lisbon and beyond, Santini has been serving its legendary ice cream since 1949. The brand's longevity speaks to the quality and taste of its offerings. With a variety of flavors that mix traditional recipes with new, inventive ones, Santini's ice cream is a blend of history and innovation. Their cherry, passion fruit, and raspberry flavors are particularly refreshing during the hot summer months, offering a burst of natural taste with every lick.

Nannarella

Nannarella is another gem in Lisbon's ice cream scene, known for its authentic Italian gelato made fresh daily. Located near São Bento, this quaint spot draws crowds willing to queue for its sumptuous flavors. From classic pistachio and hazelnut to seasonal specials like mango and strawberry, Nannarella's gelato is a creamy, dreamy escape from the summer heat. The commitment to quality and authenticity makes it a standout in the city's culinary landscape.

For those seeking innovative and unique ice cream flavors, Mú is the place to be. This artisanal ice cream parlor experiments with unexpected combinations, such as olive oil and basil or chocolate and chili, alongside more traditional favorites. Mú's commitment to natural ingredients and inventive pairings makes each visit a delightful surprise. Their cozy shops provide a cool refuge, where the friendly staff are happy to let you sample the day's offerings.

Amorino

Amorino brings a touch of artistic flair to the ice cream experience, with beautifully crafted gelato roses that are as stunning to look at as they are to eat. This international chain has a strong presence in Lisbon, offering a wide range of flavors made from organic ingredients. The ability to combine multiple flavors in one cone means you can create your own personalized treat. Don't miss their sorbets, made with real fruit, for a refreshing and dairy-free option.

italian gelato in lisbon

Iced Coffee in Lisbon: A Refreshing Summer Indulgence

As the mercury rises, the city's coffee culture adapts, offering delightful twists on traditional brews to beat the summer heat. Mostly. If you want a “café com gelo” in a very traditional coffee shop you will get an espresso with a glass of ice. You mix the two, and you've got your iced coffee.

There is also the mazagran, a cold, sweetened coffee drink that originated in Algeria. It's basically a lemonade with espresso! The Portuguese versions use espresso and lemon, and sometimes mint and rum.

Making espresso tonic

To get a “real” iced coffee drink that you would normally see in the United States, you will need to go to more modern coffee shops like Jeronymo Café or Cophenhagen Labs. From classic iced espressos to more inventive concoctions like cold brews infused with local spices or citrus zest, these coffee shops serve up invigorating options that are perfect for cooling down.

Glass with ice latte and black straw

Lisbon in the summer is a vibrant tapestry of cultural richness, breathtaking landscapes, and gastronomic delights. Whether you’re exploring the cool interiors of historic monuments or museums, embracing the water on a paddleboard, relaxing at the beach, or savoring local flavors, the city offers countless ways to enjoy its charm while staying chilled!

Read more about how to order coffee in Lisbon.

Fountain on Rossio Square in Lisbon

So, pack your bags, grab your sunglasses, and prepare for an unforgettable summer adventure in Lisbon.

How about you? Have you been to Lisbon in the summer? Do you have additional things to do or tips for beating the summer hear? Do tell!

Don't forget to pin this for later!

Alfama Lisbon Cityscape

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Pasteis de Nata and Pasteis de Belem – A Taste of Heaven in Lisbon https://misadventureswithandi.com/pasteis-de-nata-lisbon/ https://misadventureswithandi.com/pasteis-de-nata-lisbon/#comments Thu, 04 May 2023 17:40:02 +0000 https://misadventureswithandi.com/?p=10941 Pasteis de Nata or Pastel de Belem is THE thing to eat in Portugal. Buying them or learning to make them there or at home, it's a must!

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When we visited Lisbon we fell head over heels in love. With its picture-perfect neighborhoods, elegant shopping streets, and glittering waterfront, I thought there was no way that Lisbon could get any better. Then I discovered a little taste of heaven – Pasteis de Nata.

Pastéis de Nata

Before even setting off for the Portuguese capital, I had experienced many of the small traditional pastries that you can in just about every guidebook in Hawaii and at Portuguese-American events in the San Francisco Bay Area.

For some reason, Pasteis de Nata seemed to court hushed tones amongst city experts and those in the know about Portuguese food. Their elevated status was intriguing to me. They were only pastries, how special could they be?

There was only one way to find out…

What is a Pasteis de Belem?

Pasteis de Belem bakery in Lisbon

As I experienced first-hand in the charming town of Belem, Pasteis de Nata (singular is Pastel de Belem), or Portuguese ‘custard tarts’, are small, papery pastries filled with deliciously sweet and gooey egg custard. When seasoned with cinnamon and icing sugar, they are the ultimate accompaniment to a tiny but mighty cup of Portuguese coffee.

Pasteis de Nata are sold all over Lisbon but are most closely associated with Belem. In fact, the cafés near the Jerónimos Monastery are as popular as any other tourist attraction dotted around this historic Lisbon suburb.

Belem’s maze of traditionally tiled coffee shops is a mecca for cake and coffee fans, but Casa Pasteis de Belem is, by all means, the mothership. The café’s history is a compelling enough reason to visit.

Casa Pasteis de Belem has its roots in the liberal revolution of 1820 when all convents and monasteries in Portugal were shut down. By 1834, clergy and laborers had been expelled from ecclesiastical buildings, so many were facing destitution. Times were tough by all accounts, so in an attempt to supplement their income, a group of enterprising clerics in Belem offered to sell their pastries to the general store located next to the sugar cane refinery.

Around the same time, the architectural splendor of the Torre de Belém (Belem Tower) was attracting tourists who, over the years, had grown accustomed to dropping by to enjoy some of the monastery’s pastries.

In 1837, Casa Pasteis de Belem set up shop in the buildings joined to the sugar cane refinery, using the secret recipe from the monastery. To this day, the recipe is shrouded in mystery and is only passed on to trusted master confectioners who bake the pastries in the ‘secrets room’.

Getting to Belem:

Belem is located just 3.5 miles/6 km from Lisbon city center. To get to Lisbon from Belem, take tram 15 from Figueira Square or Comercio Square or if driving with Lisbon car hire, head north on Praca do Comércio in the direction of Av Infante Dom Henrique. Take a left turn at R. di Comércio. Then, take another left at R. Áurea.

You will then need to take a slight right turn at Praca do Comércio. From here, turn right at Av. Da Ribeira das Naus and continue in towards Cais do Sodré train station. From here head for Av. 24 de Julho and stay on Av. 24 de Julho. Next, take a slight left turn at Av. 24 de Julho and continue along Av. 24 de Julho.

Then travel towards Av. Da Índia/N6 and take a left turn to stay on this road. Next, turn right at Praca Afonso de Albuquerque and take a left turn to stay on this road. Keep to the left side of the road at the fork. Casa Pastéis de Belém is located on the left.

Address: Pastéis de Belém, Rua de Belem, 84

Pasteis-de-Nata-and-Pasteis-de-Belem-Lisbon

Where to find the best Pasteis de Nata (non-Belem version) in Lisbon

Pasteis de Nata are found all over the city and on every trip to Lisbon (I've been there now 3 times and spent 3 months there) I discover more!

  • Eater has dedicated a whole guide to them!
  • Manteigaria > Rua do Loreto 2
  • Fábrica da Nata > 62 -68 Praça dos Restauradores
  • Pastelaria Versailles > Av. da República 15-A
  • Confeitaria Nacional > Praça da Figueira 18B
  • Pastelaria Cristal > R. Buenos Aires 25A
  • Aloma > Rua Francisco, Metrass 67, Campo de Ourique

Pasteis de Nata Recipes:

Pastel de Nata Workshop

What if you could learn to make these little slices of heaven at home? Then yes, you would miss Lisbon and Portugal, but you would be armed with the tools to make Pasteis de Nata and I promise you, you would instantly feel better!

What better way to experience Lisbon than to take a cooking class, meet other pastry fans, and have a treat? I did this in Paris and have the fondest memories! My friend Cindy of Travel Bliss Now took the Pastel de Nata Workshop in Lisbon, I am super jealous and will do this on my NEXT trip – promise!

TRAVEL TOURS

Pasteis de Nata

Pastel de Nata Cream!

I am a HUGE fan of Benamor, the Portuguese beauty line that makes delicious-smelling hand and body creams. Until recently my favorite scent was jacaranda whose trees you find in Lisbon, but Benamor just recently released a new scent, and you guess it…it's called Nata and smells just like warm Pastel de Nata! You can get it on their website or through Amazon! I bought some and I am LOVING it!

How about you? Have you tried Pastéis de Nata or Pastéis de Belém?

Like it? PIN it!

Pasteis de Nata and Pasteis de Belem - A Taste of Heaven in Lisbon PortugalPasteis de Nata and Pasteis de Belem - A Taste of Heaven in Lisbon PortugalPasteis de Nata and Pasteis de Belem - A Taste of Heaven in Lisbon Portugal

Are you in love with Portugal like I am? Check out these posts:

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Things to do in Sao Miguel in the Off-Season https://misadventureswithandi.com/things-to-do-in-sao-miguel-off-season/ https://misadventureswithandi.com/things-to-do-in-sao-miguel-off-season/#comments Thu, 09 Mar 2023 17:14:58 +0000 https://misadventureswithandi.com/?p=88995 Packed with craters, lagoons, and waterfalls, there are plenty of things to do on Sao Miguel Island in the Azores, even in the off-season!

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We spent the last 2 weeks of November on the island of Sao Miguel right smack in the off-season. Of the 14 days we spent on the island, we only had 3 days without rain, but we managed to have a fantastic trip, and you CAN too!

There are still many things to do in Sao Miguel at this time of year, but the best thing about visiting in the off-season is that you have the island to yourself! Unlike the summer months, the locals are not harried by tourists which makes them happier, the result? You will be too!

One of the most underrated and frankly, little-known island vacation destinations, Sao Miguel is a part of the stunning archipelago known as the Azores in the Atlantic Ocean. It is 2 hours off the coast of mainland Portugal (and direct flights 5 hours from the United States, either Boston or New York).

Map of Azores with Sao Miguel
Map that shows where Sao Miguel is in the Azores and where Boston and Portugal are in comparison.

Also known as Europe’s Hawaii due to its lush vegetation and volcanic activity, Sao Miguel island is a surfer’s paradise with magical waves for beginners as well as pro surfers, volcanoes and waterfalls for nature lovers, and plenty of thermal pools and spas for relaxing.

The weather on the island is extremely unpredictable, especially in the winter months and you should be prepared for it to change several times a day as well as be completely different from one end of the island to the other. Here is what we did during our stay and what we recommend you do while visiting during the offseason.

Visit Farol do Arnel Lighthouse

Farol do Arnel lighthouse in Nordeste is a great location to enjoy a beautiful and calm sunrise or sunset. It is the oldest lighthouse on the island and in fact, the oldest in the Azores. During the winter there may be too much fog in the morning so you may be luckier at sunset. We visited twice, once in the late morning and once in the late afternoon.

To access the lighthouse, park in the car park off the EN1-1A at the top and take the narrow, winding road down on foot (we absolutely do not recommend driving down, especially with an unfamiliar rental car). The lighthouse is located halfway down and is only open on Wednesdays from 2-4 pm, but you can still walk to it and take some gorgeous pictures with the unending sea as the backdrop.

Or if you have a drone, you can get shots like this. By the way, there are many areas on the island where droning is allowed.

Portugal-Azores-Sao Miguel drone shot of Arol do Arnel lighthouse
Drone shot of Farol do Arnel Lighthouse in Sao Miguel Island, Azores

If you keep walking down to the bottom, you should be able to see a small village, or rather a very tiny fishing village. It is at sea level and a great spot for photography and watching the waves crash against the port and the coast. But remember, if you walk down…you have to walk all the way back up!

Portugal-Azores-Sao Miguel Porto do Nordeste
Drone shot of the fishing village below the Farol do Arnel Lighthouse

Also, note that you can get a great view of the Farol do Arnel Lighthouse from the Miradouro da Vista dos Barcos lookout or viewpoint from the EN1-1A 23 road.

More lighthouses to visit in Sao Miguel

Another great spot is the Santa Clara Lighthouse located on the cape of Ponta Delgada. It has a big red lantern that used to be a part of the old lighthouse of the Tower of Belem in Lisbon. With the crashing waves behind it on the horizon, the red lighthouse and the green scenery make for a beautiful picture.

São Miguel has one more gorgeous lighthouse that is a must-visit – the Ginetes Lighthouse or the Ponte da Ferraria Lighthouse. The historic building offers some of the most stunning views of the ocean, and if you walk down to the shore, you’ll be amazed by the geothermal spring that merges with the ocean water.

Winter weather for Sao Miguel, Azores provides you the opportunity to photograph the lighthouses with lots of drama! Crashing waves, fog or mist, gloomy clouds, it all sets a mood! Consider black and white photos too for even cooler shots!

Explore the Views

As you drive around the island and climb the volcanic peaks and mountains in Sao Miguel you will have plenty of opportunities to take in the viewpoints called miradouros. The government has done a fantastic job of reserving pullouts, small parking lots, and picnic areas all along the main road so that you can enjoy the spectacular views even in the winter!

In the offseason you may have to return multiple times to the same spot to finally see them, but once you do they are worth it! Here are some of our favorites.

Miradouro da Boca do Inferno

I am not sure that you can claim to have visited Sao Miguel if you don't visit the Miradouro da Boca do Inferno. No São Miguel itinerary. is complete without them and we visited several times. In the early morning, there was lots of fog and mist but we had the hiking trails (and the sky for droning) to ourselves.

In the late morning, the fog burned off, and we could see more of the beautiful lakes, but there were more people.

Portugal-Azores-Sao-Miguel-Miradouro da Boca do Inferno
Miradouro da Boca do Inferno a Sao Miguel Portugal must!

It is a very nice walk from the parking lot (Parque estacionamento Lagoa do Canário) past the Lagoa do Canário (that you can see through the trees) to the main footpath that leads to the views of Lagoa das Sete Cidades.

In the winter, I recommend hiking boots, something higher than your ankle as the hiking trails will be muddy.

Miradouro Da Vista Do Rei

The other breathtaking viewpoint is Miradouro Da Vista Do Rei (Viewpoint of the View of the King or King's View). From this location, you can see see the twin multi-colored lakes – the blue lake (Lagoa Azul) and the green lake (Lagoa Verde) – of Sete Cidades surrounded by the lush green crater.

Portugal-Azores-Sao-Miguel-Miradouro Da Vista Do Rei
Sao Miguel's blue and green lakes

Even though it was winter, we still got to see a glimpse of the famous Azores hydrangeas. I can't imagine what it is like in the spring!

Miradouro de Pico do Carvão

The Miradouro de Pico do Carvao is in the Sete Cidades region. You get a beautiful view of the Massif das Sete Cidades mountains as well as the north and south coast of the island.

Portugal-Azores-Sao-Miguel-Miradouro do Pico do Carvao

From the EN1-1A, if you follow the M508 towards Lagoa do Canário you will run across fantastic aqueducts still intact.

Portugal-Azores-Sao-Miguel-Aqueduct

There is also a hiking trail in this area called Rota do Pico do Carvão e Aqueduto (Pico do Carvao aqueduct route) that will take you along the aqueducts. It is 8 miles, so plan for that!

Portugal-Azores-Sao-Miguel-Aqueduct

Miradouro Ponta do Sossego

This beautiful lookout near the village of Nordeste was one of my favorites. Not only does the view remind me of Hawaii, but there is a small botanical garden leading up to the viewpoint with tropical flowers to admire. And there are lots of picnic tables and barbecue pits to enjoy a family outing or a meal.


This spot is known for its spectacular sunrises. During the tourist season, it is a very popular spot. People will actually sleep in their cars to get a chance for a good spot to see the sun rise over the ocean.

Lagoa do Fogo

Lagoa do Fogo (Lake of Fire) is a volcanic lake near the center of the island that was created as a result of volcanic activity in the Agua de Pau area. 

Portugal-Azores-Sao-Miguel-Lagoa do Fogo
Crater lake in the Azores: Sao Miguel

There is a 4-mile out-and-back trail that starts near Vila Franca do Campo and finishes at the Lagoa do Fogo viewpoint which then continues along the edge of the lagoon.

Another viewpoint is a little off the beaten path on the way to Lagoa do Fogo, known for its sunsets, the Miradouro do Pico da Barrosa. The turn-off is along the road that many people take to visit Lagoa do Fogo and is hidden behind a row of radio masts which most people discount or ignore. In truth, it is well worth the diversion to see.

Visit a tea plantation 

Chá Gorreana is the biggest and most well-known tea plantation. It is also the only working tea plantation in Europe today. You can walk through their fields at no cost as it is part of a walking trail. In the winter it is more of a dirt road and you will need good boots.

Andi in the Cha Gorreana Tea Plantation in Sao Miguel Azores
Cha Gorreana Tea Plantation in Sao Miguel Azores

If it is raining you can still Visit and view their production process. From picking the tea leaves to packaging. The company remains small-scale and they create flavorful teas while preserving the oxidants. Have a flight of tea in their tasting room or enjoy a cup of your favorite from their covered terrace and ignore the rain…we did!

You can also visit Fábrica de Chá do Porto Formoso, a second tea plantation that produces tea and showcases the ancient method of tea production of the 19th century. Guests can also taste several types of teas in their tea room or on the terrace when the weather permits. 

Visit a pineapple plantation

There are over 6,000 pineapple plantations on the island, but only a few are open to the public. You may not want to visit the plantations in the rain but you can still enjoy the pineapple drinks and treats. (Even if you don't visit a plantation all the local restaurants will have pineapple desserts!)

The most popular of them is Ananases A Arruda. With a history of over 100 years, the plantation can be visited free of charge and visitors can watch the entire process of pineapple cultivation. They also have free tastings and their special Pineapple Liqueur for sale. 

pineapples
Pineapples are an essential part of the island in Sao Miguel!

Another delightful spot is the Azorean Pineapply Plantation where you can visit the traditional pineapple greenhouses, enjoy pineapple delicacies in the bar, and try artisanal pineapple ice cream. 

Pineapples Santo António is also a historical landmark worth checking out. Along with pineapple liqueur, you can also find pineapple cookies here.

Visit the Cerâmica Vieira Factory

The art of Azorean tableware can be seen in the Cerâmica Vieira Factory which was founded in 1862 and has remained in the family for five generations (here is a little bit more history). It is a must-see where visitors can take in the process of making crockery on the potter’s wheel and the hand-made wall tiles with beautiful blue decorations.

Portuguese tile

It is said that the way the tableware is made has remained almost unchanged since the first settlers of the island. Here, the artisans dominate the production of these gorgeous sets. At Christmas time the factory makes figurines for nativity scenes as well. If you decorate your home with nativity scenes during the holidays, I encourage you to have a look.

It is the indoor perfect stop to do a little shopping (I never leave Portugal without some type of tile, I am a fan!) or to just get out of the rain!

Ribeira dos Caldeirões

On a day when it was just a bit drizzly, we visited Ribeira dos Caldeirões, a waterfall park with beautiful falls and streams. If you walk along the river, you can see several beautiful waterfalls along the way.


The park is a protected area, houses a lot of flora and fauna, and is a great place for exploration, including hiking, and swimming. Initially, the area had water mills built in the 16th century harboring centuries-old history of Azorean families that you read and learn about as you visit each part.

We tried to do part of the hiking trail but didn't get too far as conditions were a bit slippery, but we did enjoy the falls. Do note it is not really safe for unsupervised children (remember, other countries have different standards of safety). It can get quite slippery, so keep an eye out at all times!

Visiting waterfalls is a good overcast day activity as they photograph better when it is not too sunny. You don't need good weather to enjoy them.

Hot Springs on the island of Sao Miguel

One of the best things about visiting the Azores in the off-season is that when bad weather hits, whether it is raining or just overcast, it is the best time to visit the mineral hot springs, thermal baths, pools, and spas. I mean seriously, I could not imagine sitting in 100-degree water in the summer!

Furnas- Terra Nostra Park

Sao Miguel has several geothermal hot springs, and one of the most popular ones is in the town of Furnas in the Furnas Valley. It has a relaxing pool experience and the beautiful Terra Nostra garden to explore. Located in Terra Nostra Park, the pool is almost like a large pond surrounded by botanical gardens on all sides.

Portugal-Azores-Sao Miguel Terra Nostra Park

The hot springs are the size of an outdoor swimming pool. The water in the pool is warm to hot with a water temperature between 95-104 degrees and rich in minerals, especially iron which gives it an orange color. Keep in mind that the iron water can damage your swimwear and towels, so don’t wear anything too fancy.

Portugal-Azores-Sao Miguel Terra Nostra Park

There are other thermal baths in Furnas called Poça da Dona Beija that have 5 different thermal pools. To me, they look like giant hot tubs and it is very popular with families and groups.

Furnas Sao Miguel is also known for its local dish Cozido das Furnas, a stew that is slow-cooked underground by heat from volcanic rock. Watching the locals pull the pots in and out of the ground is a show in and of itself and each restaurant has an area where they cook their daily offerings. Families from the village can cook here as well.

Cozido das Furnas
Cozido das Furnas

It is the perfect comfort food after a trip to the hot springs, however, growing up as a Portuguese-American who was exposed to this stew, along with soupish, while growing up, it wasn't high on my list to experience as I already “knew” the meal. We did have a similar dish in Lisbon so Mr. Misadventures could have the experience.

Caldeira Velha

Classified as a natural monument, Caldeira Velha is a huge volcanic crater with a landscaped path that leads to lush tropical vegetation, waterfalls, and small pools filled with sulfurous water. It is an ideal place to relax and unwind. There are 4 pools with warm water and a waterfall at the end of the park.

Portugal-Azores-Sao Miguel Caldeira Velha
A hidden gem in the winter months!

The pool with the waterfall is not warm water which was a bit of a shock when I dipped my toe into the pool below the cascading water! I can see where this one would be popular in the summer! The park also has an Environmental Interpretation Centre to help visitors understand the various volcanic zones, phenomena, biodiversity, and geodiversity.

Termas das Caldeiras da Ribeira Grande

The spa complex of Termas das Caldeiras da Ribeira Grande dates back to the 19th century and holds a lot of Azorean history within its walls. The waters here were first used in the 17th century to cure illnesses.

The demand for spas with volcanic water kept increasing and thus a spa complex was built to cater to the needs. You can take advantage of rejuvenating baths, volcanic mud massages, and even soul immersion spa services.

Ponta da Ferraria

This thermal spring is not for the faint of heart! An underwater geothermal spring, Ponta da Ferraria emerges from the ocean and heats up the surrounding waters. Along with the deep blue sea and the dark basalt rocks, the atmosphere is of pure tranquility and calmness…but not in the winter!

The currents and the crashing waves can become dangerous in certain weather. Which was exactly what happened when we visited. But man, were the waves spectacular!

During milder weather, there are several ropes and ladders to help you stay afloat or sit and relax on the shore without venturing completely inside. The geothermal spring seeps into the ocean water and is usually around 64-82°F at low tide. The water from the spring can go as high as 141°F so be careful during the peak of low tide. When the Sao Miguel weather turns bad, warm up here!

What to bring to the thermal spas in Sao Miguel

  • Bring the bare minimum with you. There is not a lot of space to put your things down. You can rent lockers in some places, which we did, but we didn’t find them or didn’t use them.
  • Bring your own towel. Some thermal sources rent towels, but most do not. I recommend a quick-drying camp towel. They are super light and get the water off you fast.
  • Bring flip-flops or water shoes, I wore my JBU by Jambu Ariel Water Ready shoes or something similar.
  • Water bag for your cell phone.

Scenic Spots at the Seaside

Caloura

Located on the south of the island, Caloura has a great panoramic vista and a microclimate that makes for sunnier and less humid days. The fishing port is one of its main attractions. Visitors can swim in an artificial saltwater pool that leads to the sea.

Portugal-Azores-Sao-Miguel-Agua de Pau-Bar Caloura
Bar Caloura in Caloura

The “famous” Bar Caloura is located here. It is a beautiful spot for a drink, but I would skip the food, I had better in many other places on the island. 

Porto Formoso

A little beach town near Ribeira Grande, Porto Formoso has a beautiful sandy beach and a natural mineral spring. Locals and tourists can soak in these potassium-rich spring waters for therapeutic mineral treatments.

Água d'Alto

Água d'Alto is considered the best beach in Sao Miguel and is a very popular area for family picnics and surfing.

Água de Pau

The small coastal town of Água de Pau has a rich architectural history. The several water fountains were once the main centers of community and fraternization. The town has a beautiful church, Igreja Matriz de Água de Pau, made with basalt rocks.

It also has a gorgeous chapel in white, blue, and turquoise. The Monte Santo viewpoint is a great way to take in the green parish and the deep blue sea all at once. 

Surfing in Sao Miguel

From a surfing perspective, Sao Miguel is a dream come true. The island has a constant swell that generates in the North Atlantic Ocean near Newfoundland and is a premium surfing island all year round, especially during the winter, followed by autumn and spring.

Portugal-Azores-Sao Miguel Ribeira Grande waves

Some of the best surfing spots can be found on Mosteiros Beach in the west, Santa Bárbara, Monte Verde, and Santa Iria in the north of Ribeira Grande, and São Roque, Água d'Alto, Calhetas, Populo, Rabo de Peixe in the south. If you’re a novice, you can find some surf camps or surf hostels, or small hotels in the villages that have surfing guides to help you get on board.

Food & Drinks in Sao Miguel

I think there are 10x as many cows as people on the island, which means great beef and dairy! Try the queijo fresco as a starter with bread, and don’t forget the spicy (slightly) red sauce that goes with it. The butter is fantastic, and the yogurt too! There are plenty of beef stews, several steak options, and delicious beef dishes.

Portugal-Azores-Sao-Miguel-Cows

How can we forget seafood? It is an island in the middle of the Atlantic ocean, after all! There are lots of squid and octopus dishes, seafood and rice stews, grilled fresh fish, and shrimp. Heaven! We also ate sushi several times which was hit or miss.

I don’t know where the pigs are but there is a ton of chorizo found on the island. Made with pork meat, it is similar to Spanish chorizo, but has less paprika than its neighbor to the east, and tastes a bit smokier. And if you are into it (like Mr. Misadventures) try the blood sausage served on top of a pineapple.

Our favorite restaurant was O Silva (R. Direita de Cima 41, Ribeira Grande), where we ate twice. On our first trip, we had grilled squid, and on our second, the roasted octopus, both of which were excellent.

Caldo Verde
Caldo Verde is a common soup in the Azores.

Soup is a big part of Portuguese culture, so don’t miss out on the soup of the day served at any restaurant. It is cheap, filling, and equally delicious!

If you aren't sure about the food, don't worry! The Hungry Whales have a fantastic food tour – and a fantastic reputation!

Renting a Car in Sao Miguel

When renting a car in Sao Miguel, go for the smallest car possible! The island roads are extremely narrow, the Azoreans aren’t the best drivers (or parkers) and in the city, it is sometimes impossible to navigate the tiny streets even in a small car.

In addition, get car insurance (so you will need to budget for that, basically take your rental price and double it) because scrapes on the outside of the car would not be unheard of given how much room you have to pass between cars. The mountainous roads are dangerous, with very sharp corners and you do not want to be on the wrong end of an accident.

Tips on exploring in Sao Miguel

Sao Miguel has several small towns that are worth visiting. If you want to get off the highway and explore, follow the “Acesso locale” signs. No matter where you’re going, beware of the tiny roads. Another notable thing is that people park wherever they want most of the time, so you might have to navigate a bit carefully.

Be careful when you walk in town

Be extremely careful when exiting buildings, stores, restaurants, bars, or anything in Sao Miguel. There are either no sidewalks or sidewalks that are 6 inches (if you are lucky!). If you step out without looking, you may end up being hit by a car.

Picnic Areas

There are beautiful picnic areas throughout the island with gorgeous views. If you are going to be out and about during the day, consider packing a lunch (or a sunset apero) and stopping at one of these “merendas” spots.

Guided Tours

If you don't feel comfortable renting a car, then there are plenty of guided tours that have half or full-day itineraries to take you to all the sites and spas. There may not be as many operating in the winter, but they are operating and we saw plenty.

I recommend the following:

A little more about Sao Miguel

Sao Miguel is the largest island (290 square miles) of the Azores archipelago, one of 9 islands off the coast of Portugal. It is an autonomous region, meaning it can govern itself. Azoreans only claim to be Portuguese when there is a national or international fútbol (soccer) tournament, otherwise, they are quite proud and consider themselves Azorean and not Portuguese.

Besides surfing, the Azores are known for their whale watching and have plenty of whale-watching tours where you can see sperm whales (and bottlenose dolphins too). There are a lot of water sports and spelunking or caving etc. but you can't do any of it in the winter. So that is important to you, then make sure you plan your trip for spring, summer, or fall.

Sao Miguel Azores Weather Offseason

During our two weeks on the island, we had mostly rain, but not all day long kind of rain. It was tropical showers with temperatures in the 60s and humidity. There was usually a breeze and we had 4 days of sunshine. Even with that weather, we were able to do so much and it is totally worth it to have the island to ourselves!

A Few Things to Note about the Ponta Delgada Airport

The Sao Miguel airport is called Ponta Delgada (located in the largest city of the Azores) and is an international airport. Besides flights coming in from continental Europe (via Lisbon) there are flights to Sao Miguel Azores from the United States. Year-round the 2 airlines doing these direct flights from New York and Boston are Azores Airlines (SATA) and TAP Air Portugal.

In the summer, there is also a direct flight from Oakland California (read this fantastic book, The Tenth Island: Finding Joy, Beauty, and Unexpected Love in the Azores to learn why). Also in the summer, United Airlines flies direct.

  • It is an outdoor airport, so there is no protection from rain or heavy winds.
  • The planes load from the front and rear so pay attention to your seat number as it may be quicker to go from the back.
  • Weather can definitely impact your trip with delays or cancellations, so consider a plan B all the time!

The one thing I would have changed about our stay

We rented an apartment for two weeks in the center of Ponta Delgada. Given that we ate out of town, shopped out of town, and visited outside of town, next time I would stay outside of the city in a smaller village or town.

Visiting the Azores in the winter is tricky, but the reward of having the Green Island (Ilha Verde) all to ourselves, the attention of the locals, low season rates, and a nature-lovers paradise to explore at our feet makes it very worth it the Misadventures family!

I would also return to Nossa Senhora da Paz in Vila Franca Do Campo because we visited at the end of a very long day and I didn't have the strength to walk up all those stairs, but the view from the bottom of the shrine of the was still fantastic!

How about you? Have you been to any island in the Azores? Do you want to? Do tell!

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arnol do Arnel lighthouselake on sao miguelMiradouro da Ponta do Sassego

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Exploring In and Around Lisbon https://misadventureswithandi.com/exploring-lisbon/ https://misadventureswithandi.com/exploring-lisbon/#comments Tue, 28 Jun 2016 08:59:49 +0000 https://misadventureswithandi.com/?p=41335 When planning our itinerary for our Viking River Cruise in Portugal's Douro River we knew we wanted to take advantage of the opportunity of being in Lisbon, even if it was for just a few days. (We had a cat and an RV being watched by my parents so we couldn't stay forever…even if we...

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When planning our itinerary for our Viking River Cruise in Portugal's Douro River we knew we wanted to take advantage of the opportunity of being in Lisbon, even if it was for just a few days. (We had a cat and an RV being watched by my parents so we couldn't stay forever…even if we wanted to!). We flew in one day before our Viking itinerary began and stayed three days after the cruise ended.

Lisbon Neighborhood
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

Someone on Instagram had told me I would appreciate Lisbon because it was so much like San Francisco – I just couldn't believe how much it was like San Francisco. The hills, the cable cars, earthquakes, the overall size, a food market like the Ferry Building, their own Golden Gate Bridge (made by the same people who built the one in SF!). It was weird, a good weird, and Mr. Misadventures and I loved it!

Here are some of the highlights from our four days of exploring.

Tower of Belem

Lisbon Belem Tower
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

While scouting spots for sunrise photography (remember who I was traveling with!) we headed to Tower of Belem which was totally empty that early in the morning, perfect! We went back later with Viking as part of our city tour excursion when there was a lot more activity.

We would have loved to have gone up the hundreds of steps to the tower to see the surrounding view and took look down. (Next trip!) There are some beautiful wavy tiles at the base.

Lisbon Tower Belem Tile

Beautiful tiles would be a theme throughout our entire trip in Portugal.

The Trams

Lisbon Tram Line 28 near Portas do Sol
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

We rode the trams several times. Not only to take photos but also because they are fun to ride! The best time is early morning when they are less crowded, what can I say, the world belongs to the early risers…

Tip:  Try to have exact change or coins. The drivers get grumpy when they have to make change. Unfortunately, the routes have different prices so do your best!

The Elevators

Lisbon Elevator at Bica
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

Because of the hilliness of the city, there are also trams (referred to as elevators) in some of the neighborhoods to help the residents climb the hills. We spent a lot of time around Bica because it was just above the food market (see below). It wasn't running, out for maintenance, so it gave us an opportunity to photograph it without it being in motion, plus the slope to the bottom offered a great view which Mr. Misadventures captured above.

Of course, that shot was also at 6 in the morning, otherwise, there are local residents (and tourists) climbing up and down the hill making it hard to get the hill, or the elevator, all by itself.

Lisbon Elevator at Lavra
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

These elevators are really mostly used by locals in the residential neighborhoods and are “decorated” by local artists on an almost daily basis. Like the one above in Lavra. Totally empty in the middle of the day, great for capturing it without a lot of people riding in it.

The Market

Lisbon Time Out Market
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

The building that houses Lisbon's market has been cut in two. One side is the main market, restaurateurs/chefs purchase goods in the morning (we know, we were there at 6:30) as well as locals a little later. The other half of the building is an upscale food court where some of the city's best chefs have stands. There is a bar in the middle and the perimeter has all kinds of Portuguese cuisines as well as a sushi bar and hamburger joint.

We landed there on our first night and had an apéro with Iberian ham, sheep's cheese, and local beer (me) and wine (the hubby).

Lisbon Time Out Market Snack
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

I have to say it was mainly locals and we had a good time people-watching. We went back another night for carry out.

The People

Lisbon Natcha and Friend at Elevator at Bica
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

Everywhere we went in Lisbon, and in Portugal in general, we met super friendly, passionate people. It was awesome. Given that we were out and about in the very early morning hours, we also met our fair share of intoxicated people.

This is Natasha and her friend at the Bica Elevator. We were there to shoot sunrise photos, they were climbing up the hill returning from an all-nighter dancing and drinking. Natasha stopped to tell us about Madeira, one of the Portuguese islands where she is from. She is a very good ambassador for this part of her country. She told us all about it. How wonderful Portugal is, etc. She spoke perfect English (her companion as well).

She requested her photo multiple times, so Mr. Misadventures obliged – she was standing in his frame anyway, not much else he could do. After 30 minutes her friend convinced her to leave and we enjoyed a chuckle, Natasha had certainly made the start of our day quite colorful!

What I Missed/Didn't See

Santa Justa Lift – the lines are always crazy long to go on this Eiffel-inspired elevator. We ran out of early mornings to see how it is at sunrise.

Pastéis de Belém – even though we were so close the morning we went to Belem Tower. And we stopped right next store to the shop that produces this famous pastry while on our Viking tour, I cannot justify waiting in a long line to eat something that I can get all over the city. [Now I know that pastel de nata is different than Pastéis de Belém, but I am guessing not so different.]

Head's Up

Lisbon Beware
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

Whenever you go to a restaurant, you will be served bread and olives. Don't eat them unless you want to pay for them. This was a mistake that Mr. Misadventures and I made our first lunch out in Lisbon. Good restaurants will state on the menu. Others will just serve you and unless you look at your bill closely, you'll pay for them without noticing.

I don't like the practice, but apparently, it is a known thing, we just didn't know. (Maybe if I had studied up on the 50 things you need to know before you visit Portugal, I would have been informed!)

We want to see more of Lisbon but also use it as a home base to explore more of the surrounding area on day trips. Here is a really good itinerary for 3 days in Lisbon if you are coming to Lisbon for a few days. We visited in the summer, but Lisbon in the winter is wonderful as well.

How about you? Have you been to Lisbon, what was your favorite part? If you haven't been, is it on your bucket list? Do tell!

Disclosure:  This is NOT a sponsored post, my 4 days in Lisbon, all expenses were paid by me. However, my flights to Lisbon were paid for by virtue of my sponsored trip with Viking River Cruises.

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Viking River Cruises – Cruising Portugal Douro Valley https://misadventureswithandi.com/viking-river-cruises-douro/ https://misadventureswithandi.com/viking-river-cruises-douro/#comments Thu, 23 Jun 2016 14:33:00 +0000 https://misadventureswithandi.com/?p=41333 [I was invited to experience Viking River Cruises. I chose Portugal’s Douro Valley. My airfare and cruise were paid for. Financial compensation was not received for this post. Opinions expressed here are my own, always are, and always will be.] Vine roots in Portugal's Douro Region grow deep. Driving into the rock and soil taking...

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[I was invited to experience Viking River Cruises. I chose Portugal’s Douro Valley. My airfare and cruise were paid for. Financial compensation was not received for this post. Opinions expressed here are my own, always are, and always will be.]

Vine roots in Portugal's Douro Region grow deep.

Driving into the rock and soil taking hold as deep as 30 feet.

I imagine like most roots, they just need a little nurturing to grow back stronger than ever.

This trip to Portugal was like a little watering of my own vines. Awakening my heritage.

It was an unexpected outcome for my journey to Portugal.

I liked Lisbon.

I liked Porto.

I enjoyed cruising and exploring the Douro River. But I LOVED reconnecting with my Portuguese roots and learning much, much more about its history, its food, and its people.

There is tons of history to be explored, and I learned interesting tidbits that I find to be really fun.

Did you know:

– The James Bond novel Casino Royale was inspired by spending time in Lisbon’s Estoril Casino? Lisbon was the center of espionage during World War II and author Ian Fleming, who actually worked in intelligence for a time, stayed in Lisbon with his boss (who he modeled M after) on their way to the U.S.

– That India was bequeathed to England as part of Princess Catherine’s (or Portugal) dowry? And Princess Catherine introduced tea to the royal court. Tea is “cha” in Portuguese and when it was imported into England it was taxable, so it had a big “T” on it and became known as tea!

But enough about me and Portuguese fun facts! Let me tell you about my Viking River Cruises trip.

Viking River Cruises graciously invited me to experience one of their river cruises in Europe. As I previously mentioned, Mr. Misadventures and I had planned trips to Portugal in the past, but we ended up changing our minds and ended up in Kyoto and Tuscany.

So when we had the opportunity to select a river cruise, we very quickly decided on the Douro River allowing us to explore Lisbon, its second-largest city, Porto, and the Douro wine region.

What I Loved

The Boat

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Viking Hemming

We sailed on the Hemming, a small boat with a capacity for 106 passengers and 26 crew. The boat was beautiful, spotless, and intimate.

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Hemming Back Deck
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

Plenty of spots to enjoy a cup of wine or glass of port (we learned that a pre-lunch port is traditional in Portugal, when in Rome…) while taking in the Douro River.

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Hemming Top Deck Pool
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

The top deck had the perfect amount of space for sun worshippers and shade lovers. There was also a beautiful pool, an herb garden for Chef Carlo, and of course the requisite shuffleboard.

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Hemming Wheelhouse
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

Of course, the captain has a great view as well!

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Hemming Salon
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

We spent a lot of time in the salon pre-and-post meals, as well as during lectures and demonstrations. Or just to relax.

Our Room

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Hemming Stateroom
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

The decor of the staterooms was bright, with light colors, and natural materials. Growing up I often wore flannel pajamas, most of the time made in Portugal. Not a lot of people know that Portugal produces great flannel. I was half-tempted to take the beautiful blue flannel blanket on our bed! The view of the wine terraces of Douro Valley was spectacular.

The bathroom had the best shower I have ever experienced on a cruise. Roomy enough, fully closing the door, great water pressure – practically unheard of on cruise boats! The francophile in me loved the L'Occitane bath products.

In the evening we wound down to an outstanding collection of free movies. Oh, and by the way, there is FREE wifi throughout the boat. You read that right. Free wifi!

The River

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Douro River
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

Still ruggedly wild and unspoiled, the Douro River is a hidden gem.

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Douro River
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

The centuries-old wine terraces of the Douro River are UNESCO world heritage sites. And while they are stunningly gorgeous, you get a deeper appreciation for them when you realize that nearly all the work is manual.

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Douro River
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

Passing by sleepy towns and beautiful houses makes you start fantasizing about never leaving.

The Staff

Viking Rivers Cruises isn't just a cruise line; it's your family for however long you are with them. Especially so with the Hemming because the entire crew is not only from Portugal but the Douro region. You cannot have a better advocate, a better guide, or a more gracious host than when you are in someone's backyard. The passion for this beautiful part of the country is instilled deep into each and every one of the team and it is not only inspiring but contagious!

I think it is a concept that should be replicated everywhere. Staff are happier because they are close to home, can see their families on a regular basis, even if it is only for a few hours, and they are proud to share their region.

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Captain Carolina Silva

Also, it was way cool to have a badass (sorry, not sorry) female lead. Captain Carolina Silva is the only female captain in the Viking fleet, a position she is holding at 26 years of age! In Portugal, women outnumber men seven to one, which means you're going to be seeing a lot more women in male-dominated roles. Girl Power!

I wish I can tell you more about Captain Silva, but she declined my interview request. I think she is on the shy side, except when it comes to the job. Mr. Misadventures saw her go toe-to-toe with a grumpy lock-keeper without blinking an eye. You go, girl!

Book-Letter

Need something? Have a question? The team goes above and beyond to take care of all kinds of requests. I had a question about the origin of the pastel de nata pastry during an afternoon lecture. The next morning, this letter appeared in my room! It provides me with a book suggestion including the description, author, and its availability on Kindle.

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Almonds

The team is kind and thoughtful. One afternoon Mr. Misadventures and I decided to skip the afternoon excursion in lieu of poppy hunting (see more below). That evening, our amazing tour escort, Annabela, found us having a pre-dinner drink on the back deck and handed us the bag above. She said knowing we are foodies she didn't want us to miss out on the famous almonds from the town where the excursion had taken place. How wonderful is that?!

The Locks and Bridges

Viking River Cruises Portugal -Douro River Lock
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

There are five locks that we went through as we journeyed upriver, which we then repeated when we cruised down. All five were built before Portugal entered the EU and they are quite efficient.

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Douro River Lock
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

Portugal claims the deepest in Europe (Carrapatelo) which stands at a little over 113 feet. It is really impressive to watch the process of going up and down.

Viking River Cruise Portugal - Douro River Watching the Lock Process
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

There are also countless bridges on the Douro River. Large, tall, concrete, wood, iron. For several of them, everything on the upper deck has to come down, including the captain's wheelhouse.

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Hemming Captain in her convertible
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

The captain in her convertible!

Any passengers on deck are told they will have to duck and for some bridges, it is too close for comfort and passengers have to watch from the back deck. The team is an efficient machine, they know what to do and do it fast and they are always ensuring the safety of the passengers throughout the whole process – it is impressive!

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Porto Bridge

One of the bridges in Porto (there are 6) was built by Monsieur Gustave Eiffel. This bridge, Dom Luis the First in Porto was my favorite. Isn't it a beauty? It was built by an apprentice of that ingenious visionary who sparked a global frenzy for iron after revealing the Eiffel Tower during the World's Fair of 1889

The Wines and Ports

Portugal Douro Wine

Wines, beer, and soft drinks are free during lunch and dinner on board any Viking River Cruises ship. And the servers are very generous pourers, if you don't pay attention, you could end up a little tipsy (I'm looking at you Mr. Misadventures….). In all seriousness, the wines (and ports) we had during the cruise were OUTSTANDING. I have new favorite wines.

Claudio, the maître d'hôtel, whose tough job it is to select from the hundreds of available wines in the region, truly is gifted in choosing one amazing wine after the other. It was a great introduction to wines I had zero familiarity with before the cruise.

Highlights of the Cruise

Porto

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Porto Bridge
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

A real charmer, Porto (as well as Gaia across the river) is not only gorgeous but full of interesting things to do, see and eat. Mr. Misadventures and I would have extended our cruise just to stay here a few more days.

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Porto Boats
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

We did a city tour, an [free] excursion offered by Viking, but it was just a tease and we want to explore more!

If for nothing else there are two food items I must get my hands on: the Francesinha, a crazy twist on the Croque monsieur, and Dobrada Guisada Oporto, a Portuguese tripe dish that Porto is famous for.

Regua

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Douro River Regua Market Lady
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

On one of our last days, we stopped Regua for the day. Instead of the free excursion, Mr. Misadventures and I went to the market. It's one of our favorite things to do, a great way to experience local products and local people. We had a great time and although we only spoke a few words in Portuguese and most of the vendors spoke little English, the fact that we tried went a very long way.

The woman above could not stop smiling at us and helping us as much or as little as we needed while we purchased cherries and strawberries. The same goes for the bread seller, the cheese and sausage seller, olive seller, etc.

Our mission was to purchase the ingredients for a great picnic. When the Hemming landed back in Porto, instead of flying back to Lisbon, we decided to drive the side roads back to Lisbon. Our plan was to find a nice picnic spot for lunch to enjoy more of the countryside.

The Regua market was perfect!

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Regua Galao

Shopping makes you thirsty and as we walked back side streets to get back to the harbor, we stopped at a small local coffee shop to relax and take in the local scene. We ordered a galão, which is like a small latte. (P.S. I have a guide to ordering coffee in Portugal, in case you ever find yourself there.)

As we were finishing our last drops, the owner came back to check on us and share some of his traditional cakes he had created, on display in his shop. He spoke excellent English and said we could find him on Facebook. He was quite the businessman and a friendly host.

Barca d'Alva

That day we missed out on the almonds? We were poppy hunting. Mr. Misadventures LOVES poppies, it's the background of his website and a favorite subject for photos. We had been seeing them along the edge of the Douro and Mr. Misadventures wanted to capture them.

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Trail in Barca d'Alva along the Douro River
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

We debarked into Barca d'Alva and followed a road outside of town. We met up with an abandoned rail line which we hiked on until we were parallel to the river. All the poppies were closer to the water level, so Mr. Misadventures found a “path” closer to the water (pictured above) and I stayed on the rail line.

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Barca dAlva Flowers

While he was getting the poppies under the olive trees (below), I was taking shots of the wild lavender (above). We love wildflowers! And with Barca d'Alva being so small and remote, there were tons of them all around.

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Douro River Poppies
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

Sandeman

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Driving to Sandeman Estate on the Douro River
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

One of our favorite free excursions was a trip to one of the Sandeman estates. The drive alone was breathtaking with beautiful views of the wine terraces and the river.

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Douro River Vines
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

Sandeman has been producing ports and sherries since 1790 and is known around the world. We toured their facility and lovely grounds and ended our visit with a sample of two of their ports. The views are gorgeous and the ports are delicious!

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Douro River Sandeman Porto Tasting
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

Salamanca

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Plaza Major Salamanca
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

We spent the day in Salamanca, Spain (another free excursion), and had tons of free time to walk around and check out the sites, like the Plaza Major. Of course, the first thing we did was head to the local market.

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Salamanca Market
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

We bought Iberian ham sausage and cheese for our picnic. Then we had to have a pre-lunch snack to test out the product!

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Salamanca Market Snack

On the drive to and from Salamanca as well as the entire time walking around, we saw storks everywhere! I hadn't seen any since our trip to Strasbourg over a decade ago.

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Storks in Salamanca
Photo credit: Sel & Poivre Photography

Optional Excursions

Viking River Cruises Portugal - National Tile Museum

We arrived one day early and stayed three days later to spend extra time in Lisbon, so I'll be writing a separate post on our time in the city.

However, we also visited the city as an excursion with Viking. Plus I did an optional excursion to the National Tile Museum which was awesome. The museum is housed in an old monastery and besides the great displays and history of tile, the architecture is pretty cool.

During our visit, we got to paint our own tiles which was a total blast! The best part was bonding with two fantastic couples – Marvin & Joanne and Jim & Emily – who became our cruise buddies for the remainder of our trip.

My Lowlights

I'm calling this section MY lowlights because these are specific to me and my current experiences, they shouldn't impact your decision to book a Viking River Cruise – I HIGHLY recommend it, but no one person can love everything, that is not real!

Boat Cruising

One of the things I love most about ocean cruises is being rocked to sleep at night by the sea. I assumed the same would happen on the river. I was not aware that the river cruise boats don't cruise at night. Despite that fact, I slept like a baby, but I missed the motion.

Coaches

At this moment Mr. Misadventures and I are traveling the U.S. in a 40-foot RV coach. After being in the RV for six months we were very much looking forward to being off the RV and on a boat. The Douro River is beautiful but remote, so some of the places we visited required bus transportation. Viking has their own coaches which are amazing, but we personally were tired of being on a coach.

We had a nice balance of coaching, walking, and cruising so it wasn't terrible, but just the reality of our personal circumstances.

Viking River Cruises Portugal - Viking Coach

We had a FANTASTIC time. We fell deeply in love with Portugal. The crew was above and beyond and made the trip even better. The Hemming is a beautiful vessel. I would definitely recommend the Douro River trip.

I don't know what the experience is on a larger more established river on a larger boat. I can extrapolate that the Viking experience translates well to this scenario.

Viking now has two new ocean cruise boats and I am keen to see what that would be like considering their level of service and attention to detail, plus the boat would rock!

Thank you Viking River Cruise for inviting Mr. Misadventures and me to experience your brand, your boats, and your people.

Despite the fact this was a sponsored trip, all opinions (as always) remain my own.

Douro River in a Day Trip

If you are interested in the Douro River but don't want to do a week-long cruise, it is possible to do it on a day trip! There are several options and lengths available! Here are some popular day trip tours:

How about you? Have you been on Viking River Cruises? Have you been to Portugal? The Douro River? If not, do you want to? Do tell!

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Viking River Cruises – Cruising Portugal Douro ValleyViking River Cruises – Cruising Portugal Douro ValleyViking River Cruises – Cruising Portugal Douro Valley

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How to Order Coffee in Portugal https://misadventureswithandi.com/how-to-order-a-coffee-in-portugal/ https://misadventureswithandi.com/how-to-order-a-coffee-in-portugal/#comments Tue, 10 Jul 2012 08:45:45 +0000 https://misadventureswithandi.com/?p=21861 How to Order Coffee in Portugal - there are a wonderful amount of varieties of coffee orders, here is a guide to get your order right!

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Just like any other European country with a long history of coffee, figuring out how to order coffee in Portugal can get confusing. In Portugal, coffeehouses and pastry shops are an institution, not only for the specialties they serve but also for their history and decoration. And like many other metropolitan cities, they once were the favorite haunt of some of the most famous literary figures in history.

Portuguese Coffee Culture

Coffee is an important part of daily life in Portugal but that doesn’t mean that everyone grabs a coffee-to-go on the way to work.

Instead, it’s much more common to begin your day with a coffee or at least take an afternoon coffee shop break. Coffee is typically enjoyed at the cafe while catching up with friends or the news. Think of a coffee date as the equivalent of grabbing a beer to catch up with friends in the US.

Coffee has played a huge role in Portuguese history, with the Portuguese first getting coffee beans in 1727, thanks to Francisco de Melo Palheta. The coffee plantations were originally in Brazil, with the beans shipped to Portugal for roasting. Or so the story goes! There are, of course, many different versions of how exactly coffee came to Portugal.

How to Order Coffee in Portugal

The Portuguese are very serious about their coffee and buy only top quality. A good way to get up to speed is to join the locals and have breakfast in a typical café or a “pastelaria.”

Once you enter a coffeehouse you’ll probably be overwhelmed with the wide variety of pastries on offer, but if you thought the coffee options would be easier, you were wrong! Coffee in Portugal is a science and they have so many options. You will need a bit of practice to figure out what you like and what you want.

Don’t stay with espresso try them all!

To order your coffee at a cafe, you’ll need to just a few words of Portuguese – bom dia (“good day”), the type of coffee you want, and por favor (“please)”.

For example, you might say: Bom dia, um cafe cheio por favor.

Coffee near Time Out Market in Lisbon

What Coffee To Order in Portugal

Here are some of the most popular Portuguese coffee drinks.  Don’t stay with espresso try them all!

Um café/Uma bica

This is a shot of espresso, similar to Italian espresso. Very tasty and perfect before a long walk through Lisbon streets. In the north of Portugal, in Oporto (Porto), is known as “cimbalino”.

Coffee in Portugal Uma bica
Uma bica, photo credit: Anna Kikia

Um abatanado

This is the closest you’ll find to a traditional Americano, with the same amount of coffee as a cafe that is poured longer and served in a larger cup.

Um café cheio/curto

Um “café cheio” is an espresso filled with a bit of hot water. Still quite strong. The “curto” is a still more concentrated coffee. They are both served in espresso cups.

Um café com elite / Um pingado

Pingado coffee is an espresso with a few drops of milk. Also served in an espresso cup.

Um garoto

Garoto coffee is a hint of coffee filled with milk and served in an espresso cup. Garoto means kid in Portuguese as this was the coffee kids drank before they were allowed to have a proper coffee.

Coffee in Portugal Um garoto
Um garoto, photo credit: jgbarah

Un Carioca

This is a coffee with a copious amount of water, resulting in a weaker coffee. In some places, you can also find the carioca de limão, which is not a coffee but a lemon infusion.

Uma meia de elite

With almost equal portions of coffee to milk, this coffee drink is served in a standard coffee cup. If you want it a bit stronger, specify ‘escura’ when ordering it.

Um galão

Similar to ‘meia de leite‘, this coffee has a larger size and is served in a glass instead of a coffee cup. It’s ideal for breakfast, especially with a pair of the famous, ‘pasteis de nata’.

Coffee in Portugal Um galao
Um galão, photo credit: mhamilton787

Café com cheirinho

Cheirinho means “smell” as it has a blend of “bagazo”, a Portuguese liquor. It’s the perfect option after a hearty meal.

Um descafeinado

This is the decaffeinated coffee option.

Um Café com Gelo

If you are looking for an iced coffee, this is likely the only version you’ll find outside of Starbucks. You’ll get a cup of coffee and a separate cup of ice to combine yourself.

In some places, the coffee is served with a cinnamon stick, which is used to stir the coffee or to drink it using the stick as a straw.

How to order coffee in Portugal

Best Coffee Shops in Portugal

There are many, many places to get your coffee but here are a few favorites in Lisbon and Porto. You are likely to find all these options in all the coffeehouses in the country but if you are looking for the most loved and popular option for your next visit check out these spots:

Best Coffee Shops in Lisbon

Cafe Brasilerira

Located in one of the most charismatic parts of the city, next to Praça Camoes. This famous café opened in 1905. On one of the outside tables, you will find the bronze statue of the great Portuguese poet, Fernando Pessoa, sitting beside his inseparable cup of coffee.

But don’t forget the inside of the bar, where you will be able to admire the magnificent art nouveau decor. They say the coffee here is the best in Portugal, so if you have the chance, don't miss it.

Address: Cafe Brasilerira is located at rua Garrett, 120.

Café Nicola

This is a popular spot among those who live in Lisbon, so you know it’s good! The perfect place to relax while enjoying views of the D. Pedro IV square. This is also the brand of one of the most popular Portuguese coffee brands!

Address: Café Nicola is located at Praça Dom Pedro IV 24.

Fábrica Coffee Roasters

If you’re looking for a flat white or cappuccino, this is the place to go as they have a very extensive menu with everything from Portuguese espressos to international favorites. 

They also roast their coffee beans on-site.

Address: Fábrica Coffee Roasters has 2 locations in Lisbon: R. das Portas de Santo Antão 136 and Rua das Flores 63.

Copenhagen Coffee Lab

This is a franchise, but Mr. Misadventures and I had a lovely meeting with our friends, Mindy and Daryl, from the 2FoodTrippers and I had an excellent cappuccino (well 2 actually) there so I would be remiss if I didn't mention it!

Copenhagen Coffee Lab

Address: There are 6 in Lisbon, but the one on Rua de S. Paulo 62 is the one I had my coffee in. Other locations include:

  • R. Nova da Piedade 10
  • Escolas Gerais 34
  • Campo de Santa Clara 136
  • Rua Prior do Crato 1a
  • Av. Álvares Cabral 13C

Jeronymo Café

Right outside the apartment in Campo de Ourique we were staying in while visiting Lisbon for a month, was a really cool Jeronymo Café, it was huge and we started every day with a coffee from this Portuguese franchise.

There is also a good one at the Estação do Oriente train station which we stopped in at a few times.

Jeronymo coffee and croissant

Address: You can find Jeronymo Café all over Lisbon, check their website (in English) for a location near you during your visit.

Café Jardim da Estrela

For a quick coffee while you are waiting for Tram 28 near the Estrela garden, or if you just visited the Basílica da Estrela and want a breather then pop into the Café Jardim da Estrela or Banaba Cafe for a quick coffee.

Linha d'Água (My Favorite)

Not a coffee shop per se, but a great place to get coffee. Their coffee is solid, nothing to complain about, a good cup of coffee, but you cannot beat the view and the location in Jardim Amália Rodrigues. Nothing like chilling beside the water on the large terrace (or hanging on the lounge chairs) with a fountain and mini-lake. I recommend late morning or afternoon as it can be busy at lunchtime.

Address: Jardim Amália Rodrigues, Rua Marquês de Fronteira (not too far from El Corte Inglés department store).

espresso coffee in portugal

A few other spots in Lisbon to consider:

  • Bettina & Niccolò Corallo: R. da Escola Politécnica 4
  • Buna Specialty Coffee Shop: R. do Poço dos Negros 168
  • Give It a Shot (Time Out Market): Rua Dom Luís I 22
  • Heim Cafe: R. Santos-O-Velho 2 e 4
  • Hello, Kristof: Rua do Poço dos Negros 103
  • Melbourne elouera: Rua do Possolo 52
  • Milkees: R. Filipe Folque 7B
  • Neighbourhood Coffee: Largo do Conde Barão 25
  • Simpli Coffee Roasters & Bakery: R. Braamcamp 64
  • SO Coffee Roasters: Calçada do Sacramento 30
  • Tease: R. Quintinha 70B
  • The Mill: R. do Poço dos Negros 1
  • Wish Slow Coffee House (in LX Factory): Rua Rodrigues de Faria 103
coffee and dessert in portugal

Best Coffee Shops in Porto

Fábrica Coffee Roasters

This is the same roaster that is in Lisbon. The one in Porto is a very large space with old brick, vintage touches, modern decor plus gorgeous ceilings, and plenty of seating. You will love the natural light coming through the windows plus there is a really cute outdoor patio/hidden garden filled with plants. They do pour-overs which can be rare!

Address: Fábrica Coffee Roasters is located at R. de José Falcão 122.

Moustache

Moustache cafe is located near the Lello bookstore and other shops and restaurants. People call it hipster, but judge for yourself! It has a nicely lit and spacious interior, with lots of outlets, comfy chairs, and big tables. They have four different seating areas including a lounge upstairs in the loft and outdoor terrace/patio.

Address: Moustache is located at Praça de Carlos Alberto 104.

Majestic Café

Have you even been to Porto if you haven't visited the Lello library or had coffee in the Majestic Café? The Belle Époque cafe opened in 1920 its Art Nouveau style was fashioned after Parisian cafés. It is expensive and there will be a long wait so just like the Lello library it is up to you to decide if it is worth it!

Address: Majestic Café is located at Rua Santa Catarina 112.

coffee and pastel de nata

A few other spots in Porto to consider:

  • Café Guarany: Av. dos Aliados 85 89. Another Belle Époque cafe opened in 1933
  • Café Piolho: Praça de Parada Leitão 45
  • C’Alma Specialty Coffee Room: R. de Passos Manuel 44
  • Combi Coffee: R. do Morgado de Mateus 29
  • Confeitaria do Bolhao: Rua Formosa 339 – 100 years old!
  • Mesa 325: Av. de Camilo 325
  • My Coffee Porto: Escadas do Codeçal 22
  • Nicolau: Largo de Alberto Pimentel 4
  • Noshi Cafe: R. do Carmo 11 12
  • Senzu Coffee Roasters: Rua do Rosário, 211
  • So Coffee Roasters: Rua Sá de Noronha, 119
  • Confeitaria Tavi: R. da Sra. da Luz 363. Coffee with an amazing view!

We stayed at this lovely hotel for the weekend on Rua das Flores and also had coffee at Jeronymo Café.

7g Roaster

Technically not in Porto, but rather across the river in Gaia, this spot is too cool not to mention! 7g Roaster is a specialty coffee roaster and coffee shop with a beautiful terrace with an Insta-worthy vertical garden. I love the modern aesthetic and they have great coffee!

Address: 7g Roaster is located at R. de França 52 in Gaia.

coffee in portugal

I hope this little guide will help you with the ins and outs of ordering coffee in Portugal! Coffee has been part of my life since I was very little, and I share all the details in My Coffee Story.

How about you? Have you ever tried any of these coffees in Portugal? Do tell!

If you are a fan of coffee and travel, you might also like:

San Francisco has no shortage of great places for coffee and my Where to go for Coffee in San Francisco has plenty of details.

I fell head over heels in love with Tom Greenwell, a fourth-generation coffee farmer at Greenwell Coffee Farm in Hawaii. Farmer, food scientist, and coffee champion, after spending several hours with Tom I had a whole new appreciation for Kona coffee.

I have spent a lot of time in Paris, my hubby even more, but despite that fact, ordering coffee in Paris can be daunting even for us! I put together a post on How to Order Coffee in Paris to help. And in case you need help ordering breakfast, here are all the details of a typical French breakfast.

Illustrations commissioned from Linden Eller.

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The Tradition of Bacalhau https://misadventureswithandi.com/bacalhau/ https://misadventureswithandi.com/bacalhau/#comments Tue, 08 May 2012 11:00:56 +0000 https://misadventureswithandi.com/?p=20634 Roasted, baked, boiled, or fried, the Portuguese say they have 365 bacalhau (cod) recipes, one for every day of the year.

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When we think of traditional dishes from Portugal, no doubt we think of bacalhau (cod in Portuguese). Roasted, baked, boiled, or fried, the Portuguese say they have 365 bacalhau recipes, one for every day of the year. Growing up a Portuguese-American and now as a tourist who has been to Portugal 3 times and spent more than 3 months in the country I am definitely someone who cannot get enough of bacalhau!

The tradition of Bacalhau
Photo credit: Zé Carlos Barretta

The great Portuguese singer Amalia Rodrigues said it best: China bem, Cheira a Lisboa (Smells good, smells of Lisbon), and that’s because the capital of Portugal smells of tradition, smells of the sea but above all smells of food. I can’t confirm whether or not in Portugal there are as many recipes for cod as days in the year, but what I can say is that you can’t spend a few days in Lisbon without trying at least a couple.

Since I was a child I have eaten cod at home, with simple recipes my mother cooked and which I liked but not really loved. Cod was for me another fish. But my opinion changed when Zé Carlos Barretta. There I had the chance to try the cod in ways I would have never imagined. Suddenly the cod became a tasty dish. Every time I went to a restaurant I ordered a different recipe with great expectations.

Here are some of the best cod dishes I had and I strongly recommend you try them when in Portugal. I've also provided recipes so that you can try them at home! Cod is a very inexpensive fish to cook with so you can really stretch your food budget.

Bacalhau à Brás

The tradition of Bacalhau - Bacalhau a Bras
Bacalhau à Brás, photo credit: Su-Lin

Bacalhau à Brás is one of the most famous cod recipes from Portuguese and Macao cuisine (a former Portuguese colony).

The recipe consists of shredded cod, desalted the day before, and mixed with scrambled eggs, fried potatoes, and very finely chopped onion. They are usually served with parsley and black olives. It’s very popular and you’ll find it in most Portuguese restaurants.

Here are recipes from Food & Wine and Cooking (NY Times) to try this dish at home.

Bacalhau com Natas

The tradition of Bacalhau - Bacalhau com Natas
Bacalhau com Natas, photo credit: Alberto

Coming from Lisbon itself, this delicious dish consists of shredded cod, fried with onions, and covered with a layer of potatoes and cream. Finally, it’s put in the oven to broil. This dish is as greasy as delicious. No doubt, this is my favorite of all cod recipes. I couldn’t stop eating it!

Here are recipes from Easy Portuguese Recipes and My Portuguese Kitchen.

Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá

The tradition of Bacalhau - Bacalhau a Gomes de Sa
Bacalhau a Gomes de Sa, photo credit: Capitu

Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá is a casserole of bacalhau, potatoes, eggs, olives, olive oil, and onion. It is a specialty from the northern city of Porto (where I started and ended my Douro River cruise) and is popular throughout Portugal. It is considered one of Portugal's greatest bacalhau recipes.

Here is a recipe from 196 Flavors.

Bacalhau à Minhota

The tradition of Bacalhau - Bacalhau a Minhota.jpg
Bacalhau à Minhota, photo credit: Teleculinaria

This is a typical dish from the region of Minho, in northern Portugal. It consists of pieces of cod prepared with paprika and fried in oil. After, in the same oil, you can fry thick slices of potatoes and finally some onion rings that are placed on the cod before serving it. The dish can be sprayed with oil and accompanied by turnip greens. Yummy!

Here's a recipe from Food from Portugal.

Pastéis or “bolinhos” of Bacalhau

The tradition of Bacalhau - Bolinhos de Bacalhau
Bolinhos de Bacalhau, photo credit: Filipe Melo

These aren’t really an entree, more like a starter and I ate plenty of them walking around Lisbon! They are fried balls made of flaked cod, potatoes, and eggs. You can eat them as a starter or as a snack. They can also accompany a juicy feijoada stew or rice and black beans.

Here is the recipe from Azelia's Kitchen.

It would be very difficult to put all the recipes for cod that exist in Portugal but I have to say that apart from these ones you can also find others like rice with cod, cod cake, cod salad, and even cod lasagne! With so many recipes it will be very difficult for you to try just one!

How about you? Do you have in Bacalhau or cod recipes that you'd like to share? Did you have cod in Portugal and have an experience to share? Do tell!

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The Tradition of Bacalhau

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Codfish in Lisbon, a must-try! https://misadventureswithandi.com/codfish-in-lisbon/ https://misadventureswithandi.com/codfish-in-lisbon/#comments Wed, 01 Feb 2012 00:32:58 +0000 https://misadventureswithandi.com/?p=18895 Codfish or bacalhau is an essential part of Portuguese cuisine. The food, in general, is rich and varied due to the colonial past of Portugal. The Portuguese were great explorers and brought back many types of spices that were used to make the dishes as tasty as can be: cinnamon, saffron, the piripiri to name a...

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Codfish or bacalhau is an essential part of Portuguese cuisine. The food, in general, is rich and varied due to the colonial past of Portugal. The Portuguese were great explorers and brought back many types of spices that were used to make the dishes as tasty as can be: cinnamon, saffron, the piripiri to name a few.

Codfish-in-Lisbon

The Portuguese are masters in preparing both meat and seafood, and in particular the omnipresent codfish bacalhau, in its many, many variations. The interwebs have told me there are 365 or more different ways to cook codfish. This main ingredient has been present in Portuguese cuisine for centuries; long before any other modern food preservation technique was invented. That’s why still nowadays in Portugal fresh cod is much less common than dried salted one.

Pastéis de Bacalhau

I have to start with my favorite bacalhau which is the Pastéis de Bacalhau, but of course, I am a big fan of pastéis de nata too! But in the bacalhau version, the salted cod is deep-friedcodfish in in a fritter style. You can get these babies at restaurants, cafes, even bakeries and they are delicious on their own or served with potatoes or rice.

Where to get the best Pastéis de Bacalhau in Lisbon

  • Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau > Rua Augusta, 106 e 108
  • Laurentina, O Rei do Bacalhau > Av. Conde Valbom 71A
  • Restaurante Faz Frio > R. Dom Pedro V 96

Pastéis de Bacalhau Recipes

If you want to make this dish at home, check out these recipes:

Bacalhau à Brás

Codfish-in-Lisbon_Bacalhau-a-Bras

One of the most popular versions is Bacalhau à Brás, with onions, chopped potatoes, and eggs, decorated with olives and parsley. It's salty and crunching and the olives and a nice hit of acid.

Where to get the best Bacalhau à Brás in Lisbon

  • Miguel Castro e Silva stall inside Time Out Market Lisboa > Mercado da Ribeira; Av. 24 de Julho 49
  • A Casa do Bacalhau > Rua do Grilo 54
  • O Vicentinho > Rua Voz do Operario 1
  • Pastelaria Baloico 5 > Avenida Ressano Garcia 47-A

Bacalhau à Brás Recipes:

If you want to make this dish at home, check out these recipes:

Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá

Codfish-in-Lisbon_Bacalhau-a-Gomes-de-Sa

Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá is codfish with potatoes baked in the oven after being stewed in milk. Similar to the previous version is garnished with eggs, parsley, and olives.

Where to get the best Gomes de Sá in Lisbon

  • Restaurant D'Bacalhau > Rua da Pimenta
  • Cafe Nicola > Praca Dom Pedro IV 24
  • Chapito a Mesa > Costa do Castelo 7

Gomes de Sá Recipes:

If you want to make this dish at home, check out these recipes:

Bacalhau à Narcisa

Bacalhau à Narcisa

Bacalhau à Narcisa consists of fried cod and potatoes and onions fried in the same oil a with bay leaves and cloves.

Where to get the best Bacalhau à Narcisa in Lisbon

  • Actually, the best place to eat this is not in Lisbon, but Casa do Povo in Ferreiros do Dão > Rua Direita 60 – day trip!
  • After that, you must visit Braga, where the dish originates!

Bacalhau à Narcisa Recipes:

If you want to make this dish at home, check out these recipes:

Needless to say in Lisbon there are heaps of bars, taverns, restaurants where you can try as many codfish dishes as you want or if you prefer to try to buy all the ingredients and try to prepare it yourself at home.

To mention just a few more places where you can enjoy Portuguese style code: Tasca da Esquina in Rua Domingos Sequeira 41C,  Terreira do Paço in Praça do Comércio, or Toma Lá Dá Cá Restaurant in Travessa do Sequeiro, 38. Let the waiter recommend the Portuguese wine that will form a perfect harmony with your dish.

How about you? Have you had cod? Have any favorite recipes?

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Codfish-in-Lisbon

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