Most Napa Valley wines are inspired, however loosely, by Bordeaux: here as there, the principal grapes include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc. But the Bordelais influence on O’Shaughnessy Winery, on Howell Mountain, may be Napa’s most nuanced — and best-researched — interpretation of France’s famous wine region. In addition to the famous five (Cab, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc), O’Shaughnessy’s 40-acre vineyard includes the grapes Gros Verdot, Saint-Macaire and Carmenere. These obscure red grapes, though historically a part of Bordeaux plantings, are hardly found at all in Bordeaux today.
O’Shaughnessy is a destination. Not only would you never, ever, have the occasion to simply be driving by — this is the far reaches of Howell Mountain, people — but even your GPS will fail to deliver you there. For those seeking an out-of-the-way, beautifully appointed winery making age-worthy, collectible Cabernet, O’Shaughnessy is more than worth the trek.
The winery is modern and luxurious, and tours are private — you most likely won’t encounter other visitors while you’re there. It’s the sort of place where you’ll learn a lot about wine, and it’s a wonderful opportunity to learn about how much complexity Bordeaux-style wines owe to grapes other than Cabernet. So keep in mind, this is not an advisable stop if you’re interested in getting in and out quickly, or if you lack a genuine interest in getting to know the estate.
WHAT TO TRY: The flagship wine here is the Howell Mountain Cabernet, from the estate, always based on Cabernet Sauvignon but with the signature O’Shaughnessy chorus of supporting grapes in various proportions. It tends to have Howell Mountain’s characteristic power and brawn, but O’Shaughnessy’s signature is a savory, sous bois, dried leaf note. It’s one for the cellar.