Although contemporary guests may have a more limited time frame, the hotel’s iconic Blue Bar, with a closely guarded secret spritz recipe, is unmissable, as is the red prawn carpaccio, which comes fresh from Sicily each morning.
Back across the lagoon, there’s little sign of the festival that’s forged defiantly ahead and it’s remarkable to behold the Floating City without its usual shroud of cruise ships.
Across the Rialto, a world away from any hustle and bustle that does remain, is Aman Venice. One of the very sleekest double palazzos in the city, this is a heavenly place to arrive after the masked clamour of the vaporetto, especially when heading for the serene canal-side courtyard, Arva.
Here, alchemy awaits in the form of a suitably hedonistic cocktail recipe inspired by Venice’s erstwhile resident, Lord Byron. Appetite sufficiently roused, the menu is cucina semplice at its finest, with fresher than fresh tuna crudo and seabass.
Those in the mood for another hop across the lagoon could whizz off to San Clemente Palace Kempinski on the hotel’s private boat. A temple of serenity (it actually has its own church, Chiesa di San Clemente, built in 1131), guests could choose between covertly watching the impossibly glamorous photoshoots going on here during the festival, or sit back with a bellini and discuss the viewings ahead. Nice work if you can get it.